Gugificazione Raleigh Super Tourer build thread
01-01-18, 12:23 PM
#51
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I really dig those small rear racks. Just large enough to carry a rain suit and walking shoes.
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01-01-18, 12:29 PM
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More pix:
Schmidt spade connectors are tight. Real tight. As in, you're changing a flat and it's cold, you're tired, and hard to reconnect. Mini banana plugs are easy on and off, yet are very secure. @southpawboston coached me up on this trick. Crimp the banana plug to the spade, add heat shrink, voila.
Schmidt spade connectors are tight. Real tight. As in, you're changing a flat and it's cold, you're tired, and hard to reconnect. Mini banana plugs are easy on and off, yet are very secure. @southpawboston coached me up on this trick. Crimp the banana plug to the spade, add heat shrink, voila.
Regarding the rest of the work, boy, I'm impressed! A fellow might even get the impression that the racks take more time to build than a regular frame. So many joints to be brazed!
Thanks for sharing!
Steve in Peoria
01-01-18, 12:53 PM
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Beauty!! Love the way this bike is coming together. That tail light is sweet!
01-01-18, 04:58 PM
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Very cool project! I have to stop reading your threads, they are dangerously inspiring.
Was the M3 bolt necessary? Don't most dynamo hubs ground through the axle? I know the old Sturmey Archer ones don't, but others (and I think that's all the others I've tested) do.
Was the M3 bolt necessary? Don't most dynamo hubs ground through the axle? I know the old Sturmey Archer ones don't, but others (and I think that's all the others I've tested) do.
01-01-18, 08:29 PM
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The only hubs that I know that ground through the axle are the inexpensive Sanyo and the Schmidt SL. Complicating things are the rear tail light (if used). Some ground through the frame, others do not.
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Last edited by gugie; 01-04-18 at 02:59 PM.
01-02-18, 12:25 AM
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It's been obvious for quite a while that Schmidt's tabs aren't at all friendly to on-the-road repairs. I've added a pigtail with more user-friendly connector pins to permit easy disconnects, but Anton's scheme is quite nice! I may have to "borrow" that sometime!
Regarding the rest of the work, boy, I'm impressed! A fellow might even get the impression that the racks take more time to build than a regular frame. So many joints to be brazed!
Thanks for sharing!
Steve in Peoria
Regarding the rest of the work, boy, I'm impressed! A fellow might even get the impression that the racks take more time to build than a regular frame. So many joints to be brazed!
Thanks for sharing!
Steve in Peoria
Here's my step by step pictorial.
Racks do take some time, but actual torch time, total on one rack is no more than 10 minutes. Bending and cutting tubing doesn't take much time. Mitering exactly where you want the tube to fit to takes a bit. Figuring out how to jig something you've never done before takes a goodly amount of time. Until you've got that first tack down, it's a house of cards. Defluxing is done in a hot water, ultrasonic bath, so that's just dumping it in the tank and hitting a button, then taking a bio or snack break. What seems to really take time is filing and sanding it all smooth to what appears to be an organic shape.
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01-02-18, 08:35 AM
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Lots of planning before the execution evident.
My question is the frame set was stated to have 8 cm of drop, with the 650b tires of the chosen cross section, what is the bottom bracket height Now?
No argument that the bigger drop helps handling, just wondering how the cornering clearance ends up.
My question is the frame set was stated to have 8 cm of drop, with the 650b tires of the chosen cross section, what is the bottom bracket height Now?
No argument that the bigger drop helps handling, just wondering how the cornering clearance ends up.
01-02-18, 09:51 AM
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Lots of planning before the execution evident.
My question is the frame set was stated to have 8 cm of drop, with the 650b tires of the chosen cross section, what is the bottom bracket height Now?
No argument that the bigger drop helps handling, just wondering how the cornering clearance ends up.
My question is the frame set was stated to have 8 cm of drop, with the 650b tires of the chosen cross section, what is the bottom bracket height Now?
No argument that the bigger drop helps handling, just wondering how the cornering clearance ends up.
No idea, it would depend on what the original spec tires were.
From my experience with this vintage of Raleigh Super Tourer/Competition (essentially the same geometry) it is "adequate". I've never experienced pedal strike.
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01-02-18, 10:08 AM
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For those wanting to try their hand at brazing, racks are a good place to start.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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01-02-18, 06:56 PM
#61
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I've been running BSP 42mm tires on my Super Tourer conversion with 170mm cranks. I have experienced pedal strike a few times. Since then, I've tried not to pedal through tight turns. Works fine that way.
01-03-18, 11:32 AM
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Round, CrMo tubing is a commodity. Aircraft Spruce has good prices for the small quantities I buy. McMaster-Carr is another good source. There are others, but that's where I go for tubing. I typically use 5/16" .035 tubing, sometimes .028 for light use racks. I've made a few 1/4" front racks for handlebar bags as well.
For those wanting to try their hand at brazing, racks are a good place to start.
For those wanting to try their hand at brazing, racks are a good place to start.
It has been a while since I have done any brazing. I have a oxy-acetylene torch that I have used for welding/brazing, I always like the way brazing comes out. It would be fun to try to build a rack. Hmmm...
01-03-18, 12:05 PM
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Just do it, man! If you have any detailed questions, PM me.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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01-03-18, 05:02 PM
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
01-04-18, 06:40 AM
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^ Thank you for the tubing specs and source (in addition to everything else contributed). I've done a few braze-ons, and I think doing a simple rack is next on the agenda.
01-04-18, 03:07 PM
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Please post pics when when you do!
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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01-04-18, 05:31 PM
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Aw heck Gugie - I wish I lived near you, you're a great mentor.
01-04-18, 06:07 PM
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Maybe it's just me, but I feel like philosophically 650B bikes and pedaling through turns don't really go together anyway. If I'm riding my 650B bike, I'm going to be happy to coast now and again. Plus, I'll probably be going slow enough that I don't need to lean that much anyway. And now that I think about it, the gugie-signature low trail conversion probably also reduces one's tendency to lean the bike to extreme extents.
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01-04-18, 06:36 PM
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Maybe it's just me, but I feel like philosophically 650B bikes and pedaling through turns don't really go together anyway. If I'm riding my 650B bike, I'm going to be happy to coast now and again. Plus, I'll probably be going slow enough that I don't need to lean that much anyway. And now that I think about it, the gugie-signature low trail conversion probably also reduces one's tendency to lean the bike to extreme extents.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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01-04-18, 06:38 PM
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Maybe it's just me, but I feel like philosophically 650B bikes and pedaling through turns don't really go together anyway. If I'm riding my 650B bike, I'm going to be happy to coast now and again. Plus, I'll probably be going slow enough that I don't need to lean that much anyway. And now that I think about it, the gugie-signature low trail conversion probably also reduces one's tendency to lean the bike to extreme extents.
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01-04-18, 06:46 PM
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Which begs the question, Andy, how do you compile a compiler? Sounds like an endless loop...
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01-04-18, 07:13 PM
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Of course, they make you so much faster that you don't need to pedal through corners.
Overthinking things is what I do best.
Sure the compiler compiles itself. It won't be long until it fixes its own bugs and I'll be out of work. Until then I am, in fact, stuck in front of my computer.
@Andy_K is probably stuck at work waiting for his compiler to compile, so he's stuck in front of his computer.
Which begs the question, Andy, how do you compile a compiler? Sounds like an endless loop...
Which begs the question, Andy, how do you compile a compiler? Sounds like an endless loop...
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01-04-18, 07:38 PM
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Is the product of compiling called "a pile?"
Nice work gugie. Love that green color too.
Nice work gugie. Love that green color too.
01-26-18, 03:57 PM
#74
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@gugie I'm glad I stumbled across this thread, because it's hard to find someone with experience using Grand Bois hubs. I recently visited their shop in Kyoto and bought their small flange front hub. I rebuilt my front wheel with it, and it's great so far. In the near future (likely next year), I was planning to order the rear hub and rebuild my rear wheel to match.
What's your opinion of their rear hubs so far? Do they have an aluminum cassette hub body, or steel? Lastly, would you advise against using their aluminum-axle rear hub (small flange) for loaded touring?
Figured I'd strike while this build thread was still hot.
What's your opinion of their rear hubs so far? Do they have an aluminum cassette hub body, or steel? Lastly, would you advise against using their aluminum-axle rear hub (small flange) for loaded touring?
Figured I'd strike while this build thread was still hot.
01-26-18, 04:28 PM
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@gugie I'm glad I stumbled across this thread, because it's hard to find someone with experience using Grand Bois hubs. I recently visited their shop in Kyoto and bought their small flange front hub. I rebuilt my front wheel with it, and it's great so far. In the near future (likely next year), I was planning to order the rear hub and rebuild my rear wheel to match.
What's your opinion of their rear hubs so far? Do they have an aluminum cassette hub body, or steel? Lastly, would you advise against using their aluminum-axle rear hub (small flange) for loaded touring?
Figured I'd strike while this build thread was still hot.
What's your opinion of their rear hubs so far? Do they have an aluminum cassette hub body, or steel? Lastly, would you advise against using their aluminum-axle rear hub (small flange) for loaded touring?
Figured I'd strike while this build thread was still hot.
If you're doing loaded touring, I'd suggest bringing a Stein lock ring tool in case you break a rear spoke.
I can't speak to the durability of an alum. axle vs steel. I really like the idea of the Velo Orange Grand Cru hub - it doesn't take any tools to disassemble. There were some reports on early models of freehubs failing. I don't know if they've fixed that, but it would be something to look into.
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