What road bike do you have?
Galveston County Texas
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Super Speeder
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Southern New Jersey
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Bikes: Specialized
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Hahaha
You too bro..now all we have to do is cut and slam your stem! Looking good!
You too bro..now all we have to do is cut and slam your stem! Looking good!
Maud Magnet
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Bikes: 2012 Specialized Allez Comp, 2001 Kona Stuff
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Super Speeder
Join Date: Jul 2011
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My shop cut it ...dont know what cap they used when they removed the cone but I can find out for ya.
Maud Magnet
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Edit: Also, what bars are u using? Did u switch to a slightly shallower drop to help compensate?
Last edited by antmeeks; 02-25-12 at 05:56 PM.
Super Speeder
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the drop is a little aggresive and have the stock Specialized bars but swapped the stem out to a carbon Pinarello stem which is 20 grams lighter than a Carbon S-Works
Also switched to a carbon S-Works seat post...
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Senior Member
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Senior Member
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yeah, but there are what appear to be cable stops on the seat stay, and what bike builder could put out a product that looks so shoddy when "properly" set up.
Don't really have a bike.
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Ya there are guides on the seat stay, my zip ties have just broken off from becoming brittle in the sun. More need to be added before it getsnsnagged on something.
Maud Magnet
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I'm not sure I get this... If there are guides for the cable on the seat stay, why would you need zip ties? The cables should be threaded through the guides, and the cable housing should stop at the top guide and resume at the bottom guide, continuing into the derailleur body... Are the guides broken or something?
Maud Magnet
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Middle-Aged Member
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Don't really have a bike.
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Sure, technically they could be called hydraulic guides but more importantly it allows for full housing to be run in an area that would be covered in gunk. Weather you have cables in the hose or fluid not doesn't matter. And there are no options for hydro discs and road levers without serious custom stuff.
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Sure, technically they could be called hydraulic guides but more importantly it allows for full housing to be run in an area that would be covered in gunk. Weather you have cables in the hose or fluid not doesn't matter. And there are no options for hydro discs and road levers without serious custom stuff.
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The answer to this is in the post above yours, to be able to run full housing. The RD final loop is one of the places where most crap gets into the housing.
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Lets see if a closer photo of this style of routing will help.
My bike.
My bike.
Last edited by Werkin; 02-27-12 at 11:22 AM. Reason: add my bike photo
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
Werkin, thanks for that pic.
Another reason for routing all those cables along the top tube -- specifically the TOP side of the top tube and not underneath -- is to get them away from the downtube, so when you shoulder the bike you 1) don't have to deal with cables rubbing on your shoulder, and 2) you don't have to grab the cables with your hand as you hold the bike by the downtube.
What concerns me about craigcraigcraig's RD cable is the severe kink right before the RD. But he knows about that, and those zip ties he mentioned will definitely help once he gets them installed. Is the housing the correct length already, too?
Another reason for routing all those cables along the top tube -- specifically the TOP side of the top tube and not underneath -- is to get them away from the downtube, so when you shoulder the bike you 1) don't have to deal with cables rubbing on your shoulder, and 2) you don't have to grab the cables with your hand as you hold the bike by the downtube.
What concerns me about craigcraigcraig's RD cable is the severe kink right before the RD. But he knows about that, and those zip ties he mentioned will definitely help once he gets them installed. Is the housing the correct length already, too?
Don't really have a bike.
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now you can settle down. The housing has been that length for over 6000 miles, shifts perfectly and crisp. It is probably a little on the short side but not hurting anything.