sgrapevine

The hole for the bolt for the rear derailleur is obviously much to small for this derailleur's bolt. Is there any solution for this?

Homebrew01

Your frame does not have a hanger tab to attach the derailluer.
That little hole is for a rack or fenders.
Your frame was intended to be used with a derailluer that has a "claw".
There are some adapters that will clamp on a separate hanger using the quick release lever, then you can attach the derailleur. Or get another claw derailleur.

sgrapevine

Yeah, awesome point. I went back and checked the derailleur that I removed from the bike. I actually had removed the adapter with the derailleur attached. Glad I kept it. Thanks for the help!

Homebrew01

Not sure if the claw adapter will work on the Dura-Ace model.
You may need the hanger add-on (or whatever it's called).

rmfnla

I love this post...

dedhed

Looks like the remnants of the original hanger broken off at the bottom.

AlexCyclistRoch

Weird post-who would attach a Dura-Ace derailleur onto a claw-adapter frame? It's like putting a Ferrari motor into a Chevette.....

sgrapevine

Yeah, well. I recently bought a used bike with great components and an (unbeknownst to me at the time) broken carbon frame. Feeling frustrated by that experience and my very limited knowledge of bicycle mechanics, I went ahead and bought a brand new bike with the promise to myself that I'd learn how to wrench on my own bike. To do so, I've stripped all the ultegra and dura-ace components off my bike with the frame issues, and decided to put them on my Maruishi RX-2 frame, which is heavy, rusted, but a pretty sweet looking bike. I'm also doing this because I've got a buddy who'd like to get into cycling, but doesn't really have the money. I think an old steel frame with newer components would be a pretty sweet first road bike.

I'll post pictures when I'm done!

Miele Man

Someone who had both a Dura Ace derailler and a frame to use it on. All the OOP needs is the Claw Adapter like this.

Various Manufacturers Rear Derailleur Adaptor Claw - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts

If there's a bicycle Co-op near him he can probably get one there or a bike shop might give him one from their used parts bin.

Cheers

sgrapevine

Exactly. So, it turns out that I had the right part all along, but I removed it with the previous derailleur due to my complete inexperience with this stuff. So, another newbie question: what kind of wrench do I need to remove this bolt?

Miele Man

That's a Torx head socket. Take it to a bike shop and they'll take it off for you and probable for free. Or take it to a store and buy the proper size bit.

Cheers

blakcloud

It looks like you are changing a long cage derailleur for a short cage derailleur so you might have some chain wrap problems. Can that Dura Ace handle your largest cog?

Homebrew01

I don't know if that claw will work with the Dura-Ace derailleur. You may need the claw Miele Man linked to in post 9.

fietsbob

IMHO, You could seek out a different frame for a derailleur drivetrain with the hanger Built in,

and use an IGH on that one instead.

The horizontal axle slot has advantages in a single loop chain around 1 cog and 1 chainring.

Or The Lower end Rear mech will work fine , just doesn't have the prestige Bling of the Dura Ache.

Miele Man

Just curious. Why do people recommend EXPENSIVE solutions to a simple proble? The OP has the derailler alread and apparently he likes the bike. Many quality bikes back in the day did NOT have derailler hangers.

Like i said, i'm just curious because i've seen expensive "Buy this $ item... Buy a new bike" many times in response to a question where there's a simple fix with the on hand items the poster has.

Cheers

fietsbob

The other RD complete, new , is costing Little more than just the hanger alone would and wil have a larger gear range capacity

Race Bike parts are for strong riders that don't need Low Gears.

sgrapevine

@BlackCloud The dura-ace is moving over with my wheel and hub. It's a 10-speed derailleur and a 10-speed cassette. The wheel fits snugly into the dropouts.

@meileman and @Homebrew01 , thanks for help and feedback so far. I'm really just trying to learn about bicycle mechanics, so I definitely appreciate the solutions that utilize what I have on hand. Once I get that torx bolt removed, I'll report back if everything fits.

Thanks, everybody!

Homebrew01

Look at the backside of the claw you have, and see if the hole matches the size on the Dura-Ace.

Slash5

If you are intending to have indexing then you should buy the proper claw. SIS compatible claws are marked and might save problems later. Your LBS will have them for a couple of dollars.
You may have travel/limit issues when you go to set this up.

Homebrew01

I saw a claw similar to post # 9, but it had an offset to put the derailleur mount in a more "correct" position under the dropout as it should be.

sgrapevine

I've gone ahead and ordered the adapter as in post 9. I've got everything transferred over from the Fuji except I'm now realizing the brakes won't reach the rims of a 700c tire. I may have to create a little extender to get them the rest of the way if something like that isn't made already.

jyl

No, get new brakes with longer reach. Something like the Tektro R539 Long Reach for $50. Or hunt around and find some used long reach brakes.

Making drop brackets (that's what you are calling extenders) will be time consuming - and risky. By risky, I mean if the bracket fails or comes loose in a couple years, your friend could suffer a brake failure and get hurt. I would not give a bike with a homemade drop bracket to someone else. (I have a bike with such a bracket, but it stays in my household.) Brakes are critical, not something to take risks with. At least wait until you are more experienced with bikes, before you start making drop brackets.

sgrapevine

This is good advice. It looks like Nashbar has some long reach brakes for $20. I'll give them a try.

Miele Man

If the needed drop for the brake pads to contact the rim is not too great you MIGHT be able to do it by carefully filing/grinding the bottoms of the brake pad slots so they are longer.

An image of your brakes showing where the pads currently rest would be very helpful in determiig is that was doable.

Cheers

sgrapevine

The ultegra brakes rest squarely in the middle of the tires; very little of the pad actually reaches to the rim. I need about another 2cm at least. It looks like the tektro's are going to give me what I need. The Ultegras have a max of 49mm, while the Tektros go all the way to 73mm. Nashbar's brakes may fit the bill and are a bit cheaper, but I think it would be cutting it close.

I really can't thank everyone enough for all the help and support. You guys are awesome.