SPDs on a road bike?
08-31-18, 05:03 PM
#51
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If you do go to recessed cleat and your riding style includes situations where you like to apply bursts of power I highly recommend looking at Time ATAC.
I used M520/540 pedals prior. You will pull out if you sprint or power up short hills. Then you will worry you will do it again and your riding will be affected.
They don't have the tiny vertical play SPD does either.
I used M520/540 pedals prior. You will pull out if you sprint or power up short hills. Then you will worry you will do it again and your riding will be affected.
They don't have the tiny vertical play SPD does either.
08-31-18, 05:06 PM
#52
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In the context of clipless pedal systems, "float" usually refers to the amount that the pedal system allows your foot to rotate freely on the pedal. This is often adjustable. For instance, SPD-SL yellow cleats allow 6 degrees of float, and the rotation pivots about the center of the cleat; the blue cleats allow 2 degrees of float, with the rotation pivoting about the front of the cleat; and the red cleats are zero-float, the shoe cannot rotate on the pedal at all.
This is largely a matter of bike fit. Most SPD-SL pedals come with the high-float yellow cleats, but if you need to force your foot to stay within a smaller range of angular motion on the pedals, the blue or red cleats are useful.
SPD mountain pedals don't have float options.
If you're referring to the system feeling squishy when you pull up, road cleats do generally have less vertical play than SPDs do.
This is because SPDs are just a retention mechanism that holds the shoe against the pedal. The shoe still pedals the pedal with its sole, and to accommodate different shoe shapes, the mechanism needs some vertical play.
With a road system, the shoe isn't supposed to contact the pedal. The cleat itself transfers pedaling to the pedal, and it sits in a very vertically-precise fit within the pedal.
As far as whether it makes a big difference on climbs... I'm not sure what climbing versus not climbing has to do with it. If you pull up on the pedal, the difference can be felt, although I doubt there's much consequence from a performance standpoint.
This is largely a matter of bike fit. Most SPD-SL pedals come with the high-float yellow cleats, but if you need to force your foot to stay within a smaller range of angular motion on the pedals, the blue or red cleats are useful.
SPD mountain pedals don't have float options.
If you're referring to the system feeling squishy when you pull up, road cleats do generally have less vertical play than SPDs do.
This is because SPDs are just a retention mechanism that holds the shoe against the pedal. The shoe still pedals the pedal with its sole, and to accommodate different shoe shapes, the mechanism needs some vertical play.
With a road system, the shoe isn't supposed to contact the pedal. The cleat itself transfers pedaling to the pedal, and it sits in a very vertically-precise fit within the pedal.
As far as whether it makes a big difference on climbs... I'm not sure what climbing versus not climbing has to do with it. If you pull up on the pedal, the difference can be felt, although I doubt there's much consequence from a performance standpoint.
08-31-18, 05:11 PM
#53
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I do have one SPD pedal laying around, an M324, that sometimes clicks under strong upstroke or if the bike is bouncing on rough terrain. I'm not really sure what the cause is. I don't know if it's just the retention mechanism, or if the way the shoe interacts with the pedal influences the effect as well, or what.
09-01-18, 10:12 AM
#54
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When starting out, I really appreciated that my 520s had an attachment on both sides. That way, you don’t have to do any pedal flipping while you’re learning the clipless mechanics. Just put your foot down on the pedal and go.
I’ve gone to A600s on my fancier bike, but I’ll keep 520s on my fixed-gear.
I’ve gone to A600s on my fancier bike, but I’ll keep 520s on my fixed-gear.
09-01-18, 11:00 AM
#55
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Using SPDs for my road bike as well as my trail bike, no issues at all and 1 pair of shoes does it all.
09-01-18, 11:08 AM
#56
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All my bikes have SPDs. I use Sidi Dominators, excellent shoes, very durable. Most long distance riders and randonneurs use SPDs and, around here anyway, Dominators. Our tandem has double sided for the captain, since a sure quick clip is critical, and single-sided for the stoker since she doesn't unclip. I have A600 on my carbon single. I don't pull out, don't notice any looseness, and I've always enjoyed a hard hill sprint. I've seen other riders pull out of Looks, so . . .
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09-02-18, 08:00 PM
#57
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Down with the duck walk. SPDs and MTB shoes all the way!
09-03-18, 11:59 AM
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SPDs as well. all i have ever ridden with. truth be told, never tried anything else because my first bike came with them. but i like them because they are small and i've seen how others walk in other types. Only ever once had one come off the pedal unintentionally. simple adjustment fixed that.
09-03-18, 12:24 PM
#59
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I have a 20-pound bin of road pedals, donated to me from various cronies and co-workers. Because at work, I've always been the: 'Bike Guy'.
These were all abandoned in favor of two-sided mountain-like pedals and shoes. Most of my colleagues are now riding Shimano 520 pedals, which are amazing performers, and value.
Note that there are dozens of pedal brands out there which are supposedly: "SPD compatible." So for example, I have Ritchey V2 pedals on a few bikes. These pedals and cleats are not Shimano compatible, as although the cleats use the same 2-bolt mounting pattern, and the cleats look superficially like Shimano cleats, you cannot mix and match the pedals and You cannot clip in, or get out, both of which are scary dangerous.
BTW: buy pedals with actual bearings like Shimano. Not cheap bushing-based designs.
These were all abandoned in favor of two-sided mountain-like pedals and shoes. Most of my colleagues are now riding Shimano 520 pedals, which are amazing performers, and value.
Note that there are dozens of pedal brands out there which are supposedly: "SPD compatible." So for example, I have Ritchey V2 pedals on a few bikes. These pedals and cleats are not Shimano compatible, as although the cleats use the same 2-bolt mounting pattern, and the cleats look superficially like Shimano cleats, you cannot mix and match the pedals and You cannot clip in, or get out, both of which are scary dangerous.
BTW: buy pedals with actual bearings like Shimano. Not cheap bushing-based designs.
09-03-18, 06:31 PM
#61
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You can tighten the pedal mech. itself with an allen wrench which will take quite a bit of that float out.
09-03-18, 06:46 PM
#63
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Just look at how many opinions you've received already! And here's one more, making it even harder to figure out what to do.
You presumably have SPD-oriented shoes. So get some road-friendly SPD pedals and go ride. At some point you'll find your rides lengthening to ranges where you might wonder if you would have fewer problems with hot-spots if you switched to SPD-SL, and when that day comes, if it happens to coincide with the time when your SPD shoes are worn out, get yourself some road bike shoes and a set of SPD-SL pedals. Keep both sets of pedals. Maybe someday you'll want the walkability of SPD pedals/shoes again.
I used platforms as a kid up through my teens.
I used platforms with cages after that.
Then I used SPD pedals and shoes, first on a hybrid and then on a road bike.
And now I use SPD-SL pedals on my road bike.
I prefer the SPD-SLs for rides longer than 18 miles, and really start feeling the difference on rides that challenge my mileage endurance. The SPDs were giving me hot spots, which motivated me to change out my pedals. But still I waited until it was time to change shoes too.
You may find SPDs fine for the kind of mileage you do. If you're lucky enough to be fine with them, be glad you can use walkable shoes too.
You presumably have SPD-oriented shoes. So get some road-friendly SPD pedals and go ride. At some point you'll find your rides lengthening to ranges where you might wonder if you would have fewer problems with hot-spots if you switched to SPD-SL, and when that day comes, if it happens to coincide with the time when your SPD shoes are worn out, get yourself some road bike shoes and a set of SPD-SL pedals. Keep both sets of pedals. Maybe someday you'll want the walkability of SPD pedals/shoes again.
I used platforms as a kid up through my teens.
I used platforms with cages after that.
Then I used SPD pedals and shoes, first on a hybrid and then on a road bike.
And now I use SPD-SL pedals on my road bike.
I prefer the SPD-SLs for rides longer than 18 miles, and really start feeling the difference on rides that challenge my mileage endurance. The SPDs were giving me hot spots, which motivated me to change out my pedals. But still I waited until it was time to change shoes too.
You may find SPDs fine for the kind of mileage you do. If you're lucky enough to be fine with them, be glad you can use walkable shoes too.
09-03-18, 06:54 PM
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SPD are fine. Used them for about 3 months on my Giant
However, Tried SPD-SL and they made a large difference in power transfer and comfort for me personally.
Particularly on longer rides.
Not being able to walk around as easily is a bummer though. But then again, do we buy bike shoes to walk around in or ride our bikes?
However, Tried SPD-SL and they made a large difference in power transfer and comfort for me personally.
Particularly on longer rides.
Not being able to walk around as easily is a bummer though. But then again, do we buy bike shoes to walk around in or ride our bikes?
09-03-18, 06:57 PM
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09-04-18, 12:42 PM
#67
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Ridden thousands of kilometers with the same M064 shoes over 6 PD-M520 equipped bikes. Never unclipped unintentionally, the two sided clip system is great.
The reason I got mtb shoes and pedals when starting out was simple...I wanted to be able to walk in my shoes. Once I accumulated multiple bikes, spending $100+ on each bike for SPD-SL pedals was quickly thrown to the side as I could get the M520s for just under $30. I could go lighter or higher end but haven't felt there is a significant performance/$ incentive yet.
I will be honest...I have never tried SPD-SL shoes and cleats simply because I have never found my SPD shoes inadequate in any way.
The reason I got mtb shoes and pedals when starting out was simple...I wanted to be able to walk in my shoes. Once I accumulated multiple bikes, spending $100+ on each bike for SPD-SL pedals was quickly thrown to the side as I could get the M520s for just under $30. I could go lighter or higher end but haven't felt there is a significant performance/$ incentive yet.
I will be honest...I have never tried SPD-SL shoes and cleats simply because I have never found my SPD shoes inadequate in any way.
09-04-18, 12:47 PM
#68
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OP here.
I've ridden several thousand road miles with SPD shoes and cleats on my hybrid. Never noticed any issues with hotspots, though my next shoes will probably have more rigid soles.
For recessed cleats, is SPD the only game in town?
I've ridden several thousand road miles with SPD shoes and cleats on my hybrid. Never noticed any issues with hotspots, though my next shoes will probably have more rigid soles.
For recessed cleats, is SPD the only game in town?
09-04-18, 01:10 PM
#69
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Crank brothers egg beaters and Speedplay frogs.
09-04-18, 01:41 PM
#70
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And Look S-Tracks, if you can still find them. I love my S-Tracks, to the point where whenever I see a pair on sale/clearance a site or eBay, I buy 'em. I'm stocking up.
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09-04-18, 02:05 PM
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09-05-18, 06:37 PM
#73
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I also use Crank Bros on both my road bike and commuter bike. I use both 3 hole road shoes with an adapter or mtb shoes with 2 hole. But they go through parts so considering the switch to spd.
09-05-18, 11:39 PM
#75
Non omnino gravis
You know how many people I've seen eat it while trying to walk through a restaurant in road shoes? Plenty. I've also walked home over a mile, more than once, after having a tire just explode on me. In road shoes? Yeah, nah.
I see no advantage to road shoes that would overcome the drawbacks. So I stick to 2-bolt MTB shoes.
I see no advantage to road shoes that would overcome the drawbacks. So I stick to 2-bolt MTB shoes.
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