kosmo886

I just switched to SPD-SL cleats/3 hole shoes vs. SPD/2hole shoes. I like the setup, but seems there is a lot less ability to move the cleats on these. My shoes fit properly, but one foot is slightly different size than the other so I can't get the cleat on my left foot far enough back. Does anyone else have this issue? What is the best approach? Thanks!

shelbyfv

Drill or Dremel.

MoAlpha

Have this problem too, on a very expensive and warm set of winter boots. Anyone got the specs or a source for threaded inserts?

WhyFi

For three-bolt? I know that Specialized has them available for their shoes, I've bought them in the past, but they do have an odd flange shape that needs to be counter-sunk -


Other manufacturers might have them available with a more accommodating shape.

MoAlpha

Looks a little awkward, but would give more surface for adhesive. Would also be an excuse to acquire a Dremel, finally, at age Medicare, but I'm trying to slow down on the merchandise to ease the final burdens on my heirs and assigns.

WhyFi

Keep in mind that these are intended to be countersunk on the inside of the shoe, so in getting a Dremel in there could be a challenge. I suppose that they could be splayed open, but it would require some creative work-holding.

Edit: Oh, and FWIW, Spec didn't use any adhesive - the countersunk bits just keep the nut from spinning while being tightened and the liner keeps them in place when not secured with a cleat.

MoAlpha

Well, then **** that for a game of soldiers.

How did you countersink them or did you use existing holes?

WhyFi

I didn't change cleat position, I was simply replacing some that had been corroded, so they sat in the factory drilled holes.

WhyFi

Thinking about it a little more, Dremel does have a locking depth stop, but you'd still need a way of patterning/transferring the shape of the t-nut... in woodworking, this would be done with a template being traced either by bearings mounted on the cutter shaft or with a concentric bushing... This might be a bit much to ask when working within the confines of a shoe.

I do wonder if you actually need that precise countersunk shape, though. Let's just say that you made a round countersink that would allow the t-nut to spin... you could use adhesives but it might even be fine without, you just need a finger on the t-nut to keep it from spinning until it's tight enough for friction to keep it in place. Hell, a bit of Gorilla/duct tape over the top of the nuts might be enough to keep them from spinning until they're tight enough...

MoAlpha

Now you're operating at my level!

topflightpro

Switch to Speedplays and buy an extender kit: https://www.westernbikeworks.com/pro...base-plate-kit

colnago62

There was a post about making a race bike an endurance bike here recently based on these extender plates that allowed you slide your cleats farther back. Might be worth looking at. Less risky than drilling holes in your shoes.