Herzlos

I've got a Carrera Vulcan with Clarks Clout hydraulic disc brakes and stock rotors (180mm/160mm). The front one is warped so I was going to take it off to true it and then realised that the replacements are cheap so I'm thinking of just replacing it if I can't straighten it out though wary that if I replace it with another crap rotor it'll warp again anyway so thought upgrading may be the way to go.
When looking at the rotors I see there are floating ones instead of single piece which are supposedly better for brakes with only one moving pad (including mine, as I understand it), but they are about 4x more expensive:

Standard rotor (£7): https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bik...er-599958.html
Floating rotor (£30): https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bik...or-641401.html

Would it be worth replacing both with the floating rotors or should I stick to single piece? Stick with the Clarks or get better ones?

jimc101

Just get yourself some decent rotors, i.e. Shimano Deore level and above (nothing that says resin pads only like the RT56 which are junk)

If you were going to look at floating rotors , thinking you would be better off putting that money into a better set of brakes/calipers

Geepig

Ah, you are at my end of the market...

I would like to ask how long the current rotor lasted, and whether you think it would be cheaper to replace the rotor a couple of times than put higher spec equipment when it is uncertain how long the other equipment on the bike will last?

Only this morning I was wondering whether to invest in some replacement brake elements for my Velosteel coaster brake hubs, just replace the whole hubs, or invest in some better quality used Fichtel & Sach hubs.

GrainBrain

Not disagreeing but I have had good luck with the RT56, granted I'm not using them down a mountain. Sounds like even the RT56 are better then OPs stock rotors.

jimc101

My best results with these have been selling them on ebay, and buying better ones, as people pay a lot for low end parts (don't know why), but would agree that even these would be better than the stock rotors!

Geepig

And that is very true, and I wonder if it is because they assume that new parts are more expensive. I see ridiculous prices for some of the stuff I am interested in, higher than new from my local bike shops.

Herzlos

The bikes only about 9 months old and covered maybe 100 miles, but there's always been a bit of a rotor rub at the front so I'm not sure if it was a manufacturing issue, bedding issue, low quality part or just bad luck in damaging it on an early run. It's certainly not worn though.
I can hear it rubbing but haven't been able to see exactly where the bend is and attempting to bend it whilst on the hub hasn't helped so I figure the next step is to take it off and place it on something flat to see if I can straighten it that way.

I'm happy to pay a bit more if I can get better performance and ideally stop the rubbing!

jimc101

If it has done so little distance, would look at cleaning the rotor/pads first, get some disc brake cleaner (Halfords sell it, but a good LBS should be cheaper) and then bed the pads in.

Initially you said the rotor was warped, but from now what you saying, you just have some rubbing? which isn't to unusual to have a little bit, but it's probably more a case of setup, a few good hard pulls on the brake to bed it in should sort it out!

Herzlos

It's only rubbing at one point in the rotation which I don't think can happen if the disc is completely straight. Of course it could always be the axle that's out of alignment, so I've got a bit of investigating to do. Cleaning it all it is a good idea though!

ClydeClydeson

You are correct that intermittent rubbing throughout the wheel rotation is caused by a warped rotor. THe axle is stationary so misalignment there is not the cause. If the bearings are loose it could cause rubbing, but it wouldn't necessarily rub in time with the wheel rotation like it does with a warped rotor.

If the rotor rubs so you hear it but it doesn't seem to cause any significant drag, you may be able to adjust the position of the caliper to stop the rubbing. Shine a flashlight through the rotor from the opposite side you are looking and you can tell when there is a gap between the rotor and pad and when there is not (rubbing). Rotors are seldom perfectly flat when installed so this operation is common to stop minor rubbing.

Iride01 

Are they making noise while you are riding it? Or just when moving the bike around to get it around all the obstacles in your house or garage?

Pad to rotor clearances are very small. So the slightest warpage can make them rub. Mine only rub when I've got the wheel turned almost all the way to get it out of the garage. I suppose, but have never investigated that it's the hydraulic line getting a little pinched and pushing the pads far enough to rub the ever so slightly warped rotor.

But it's not an issue riding. If I ever turned my front wheel far enough to make the rotor rub while riding, then I'd be making a louder noise from the wreck I'd currently be having.