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Visser Vainqueur potential project or scrap?

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Visser Vainqueur potential project or scrap?

Old 03-20-20, 03:48 PM
  #51  
juvela
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Originally Posted by alexnagui View Post
Is it common that the brake bridge is drilled horizontally and vertically? Or is it some kind of a modification?

-----

Bridge is a NERVEX item.

They offered scores of bridges which were double drilled like this.

Straight or curved, flanged or unflanged.

(without knowing its specific length cannot give a model number)

-----
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Old 03-20-20, 09:03 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by francophile View Post
First thing is not getting hung up on what's missing, and have a rough vision on one or two possible outcomes you'd like to see. What are you aiming for?

With something like this, I'd start exactly where you have: Taking good pictures. Then I'd look for a couple of comparison bikes of roughly the same year/model, normally I hit ClassicRendezvous first, then a few other places to try to find pictures I can reference for the little details. You may also hit CABE and setup an account if you're not already there, too. There's a braintrust over there, same as here.

Then I'd proceed as you have: Disassembly, down to the bottom bracket (leave headset and bottom bracket assembled, properly pop out the cotters) . I'd bag all the parts to keep them together, even the stuff that seems too rusty to do anything with, with exception of consumables you need to replace anyway (spokes, tubes, tires, bar tape etc).

A lot of the rust I'm seeing there is negligible, especially in the white painted areas. That will cut out with a good compound and/or ultra-fine brass wool gently brushed across the tubes with a diluted dish liquid as lubricant, which will also clean up the chrome nicely.

Before starting any of that work on the tubes, I'd take some construction paper and painters tape to tape the paper over any surface-mount decals with a tiny 1mm margin above/below them. This way you can pass across the tubes without any issues.

You may consider an Oxalic Acid bath as others suggest, but that may trash or fade any surface-mounted decals. I'd probably do that for the rear dropouts, but I have a little bit of beef with water-in-tubes myself, so I prefer only to do non-perforated tubes with exception of the bottom half of the BB shell.

For smaller parts, like the clamps holding the chain guard on, which are heavily rusted ... I'd scrub off any surface rust and soak those in Evap-o-Rust. It's a killer product, nobody ever believes me when I tell them what it's capable of, and it's all-natural, so no neutralizing or special handling for disposal. Best part, though, you can re-use it several times. I keep a few pickle jars around full of it and will re-use it a dozen or more times before it gets kinda funky. You may be able to salvage the bottom cup on that headset, you'd be surprised, if not, you may be able to find a replacement here or on CABE.

Once I got the frame cleaned up, I'd assess: Where are we? Does it look OK? Am I confident it's structurally sound, lug joints OK, no hardcore internal rust ? If yes, I'd proceed. If I wanted to keep the patina intact, I'd consider a going over it with semi-gloss or maybe even matte 2K clear. If the frame is in exceptionally good case, and you wanted to have a real showpiece, maybe drop the money on having it professionally repainted.

If you're not planning to restore it, I'd consider posting the frame/fork/headset/assembled BB/crank for sale here or elswhere, or give it up for the cost of shipping (I'd take it and compensate you for pack and ship). This bike is one of those things I love to get my hands on and set aside as a long-term projects slowly plug at over the course of a couple of years.
I agree about Evap-O-Rust. It is amazing. I have also used 0000 steel wool soaked in WD40 to clean up paint & light rust. tt does't scratch the paint & if pressed lightly, doesn't damage decals.
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Old 03-21-20, 04:05 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by juvela View Post
-----

The TWF marque was created by two brothers, name of Woit, in Flanderland, 1946. The T and the F are their respective initials.

Firm produced headsets, bottom bracket assemblies and chainsets.

In Britain, Ron Kitching was a stockist in the 1950's and 1960's. Headsets shown in 1963 & 1970 editions of the Everything Cycling handbook.

Historique : WOIT Fonderie des Métaux non Ferreux - Herstal - Liège - Wallonie

Member Munny discusses the bottom bracket spindles here -

https://veloretrocourse.proboards.com...0688/quote/624

As a native Dutch speaker expect you will have no difficulty in searching for additional information in Flemish.

These three images courtesy of Munny illustrate one pattern of headset, different from yours -






Munny gives additional information on the company and their products in this BF posting -

https://www.bikeforums.net/20158383-post536.html


-----
It does not look like a TWF headset.


it does not have the teeth like the others I've seen.
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Old 03-21-20, 01:00 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by francophile View Post
First thing is not getting hung up on what's missing, and have a rough vision on one or two possible outcomes you'd like to see. What are you aiming for?

With something like this, I'd start exactly where you have: Taking good pictures. Then I'd look for a couple of comparison bikes of roughly the same year/model, normally I hit ClassicRendezvous first, then a few other places to try to find pictures I can reference for the little details. You may also hit CABE and setup an account if you're not already there, too. There's a braintrust over there, same as here.

Then I'd proceed as you have: Disassembly, down to the bottom bracket (leave headset and bottom bracket assembled, properly pop out the cotters) . I'd bag all the parts to keep them together, even the stuff that seems too rusty to do anything with, with exception of consumables you need to replace anyway (spokes, tubes, tires, bar tape etc).

A lot of the rust I'm seeing there is negligible, especially in the white painted areas. That will cut out with a good compound and/or ultra-fine brass wool gently brushed across the tubes with a diluted dish liquid as lubricant, which will also clean up the chrome nicely.

Before starting any of that work on the tubes, I'd take some construction paper and painters tape to tape the paper over any surface-mount decals with a tiny 1mm margin above/below them. This way you can pass across the tubes without any issues.

You may consider an Oxalic Acid bath as others suggest, but that may trash or fade any surface-mounted decals. I'd probably do that for the rear dropouts, but I have a little bit of beef with water-in-tubes myself, so I prefer only to do non-perforated tubes with exception of the bottom half of the BB shell.

For smaller parts, like the clamps holding the chain guard on, which are heavily rusted ... I'd scrub off any surface rust and soak those in Evap-o-Rust. It's a killer product, nobody ever believes me when I tell them what it's capable of, and it's all-natural, so no neutralizing or special handling for disposal. Best part, though, you can re-use it several times. I keep a few pickle jars around full of it and will re-use it a dozen or more times before it gets kinda funky. You may be able to salvage the bottom cup on that headset, you'd be surprised, if not, you may be able to find a replacement here or on CABE.

Once I got the frame cleaned up, I'd assess: Where are we? Does it look OK? Am I confident it's structurally sound, lug joints OK, no hardcore internal rust ? If yes, I'd proceed. If I wanted to keep the patina intact, I'd consider a going over it with semi-gloss or maybe even matte 2K clear. If the frame is in exceptionally good case, and you wanted to have a real showpiece, maybe drop the money on having it professionally repainted.

If you're not planning to restore it, I'd consider posting the frame/fork/headset/assembled BB/crank for sale here or elswhere, or give it up for the cost of shipping (I'd take it and compensate you for pack and ship). This bike is one of those things I love to get my hands on and set aside as a long-term projects slowly plug at over the course of a couple of years.
When the evaporust gets funky looking, I pour it through a coffee filter. The resulting evaporust does not work as well as fresh (more time needed) but it still works a few more times.
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Old 03-21-20, 02:06 PM
  #55  
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Just ordered evaporust en evaporust gel for the frame. Watched some video's about the stuff and was sold. Can't wait to get started. There's lots off stuff here I want to try evaporust on.
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Old 03-22-20, 12:27 PM
  #56  
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Someone is selling a very similar frameset on MP
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Old 03-22-20, 03:14 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by alexnagui View Post
Someone is selling a very similar frameset on MP

-----

WOW!

Terrific find - what a match.

MP highly dangerous for me.

When I visit can be lost for hours.

Sun can rise or set, as the case may be...

Thanks very much.

-----
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Old 03-22-20, 03:34 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by alexnagui View Post
Someone is selling a very similar frameset on MP
thats an exact copy... but better.
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Old 03-22-20, 03:47 PM
  #59  
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Contacted the seller if he knew anything about the frame. Only thing he knows is that his frame is never been used.
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Old 03-22-20, 03:47 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by juvela View Post
-----

WOW!

Terrific find - what a match.

MP highly dangerous for me.

When I visit can be lost for hours.

Sun can rise or set, as the case may be...

Thanks very much.

-----
Yeah, MP can be very addictive
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Old 03-22-20, 03:48 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Locomotief View Post
thats an exact copy... but better.
Originally Posted by Locomotief View Post
Contacted the seller if he knew anything about the frame. Only thing he knows is that his frame is never been used.
I think you should get it
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Old 03-22-20, 04:04 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by alexnagui View Post
I think you should get it
-----



+1

"Synchronicitudosityness!"

-----
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Old 03-22-20, 04:20 PM
  #63  
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Good eye, alexnagui !

There's that AA again:



Apparently the painter?
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Old 03-22-20, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by non-fixie View Post
Good eye, alexnagui !

There's that AA again:



Apparently the painter?
Tried googling it. Came up with nothing.
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Old 03-22-20, 04:53 PM
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There is a bike paint shop called Anibel in Aarschot, Belgium. Haven't been able to match it to this particular logo yet, though.
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Old 03-23-20, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by non-fixie View Post
There is a bike paint shop called Anibel in Aarschot, Belgium. Haven't been able to match it to this particular logo yet, though.
I've send them an email asking about the bike. They have been in business for 40 years and the bike might be 70 years old?? So it's a long shot.
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Old 03-23-20, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by alexnagui View Post
Someone is selling a very similar frameset on MP
Someone else bought the frame set from mp. Did anybody from classic and vintage buy it?
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Old 03-23-20, 04:01 PM
  #68  
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-----

This will never do.

-----
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Old 03-23-20, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by juvela View Post
-----

This will never do.

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How do you mean #juvela ?
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Old 03-24-20, 12:30 AM
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I started working on the steering wheel off the visser. There was one layer off electrical tape with the old canvas stuff underneath. After I got those off there was a sticky mess left over. I used brake cleaner to get that off but I'm no left with this stuff. What's the best way to remove that?
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Old 03-24-20, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Locomotief View Post
Someone else bought the frame set from mp. Did anybody from classic and vintage buy it?
That's unfortunate, I was hoping to see a post from you saying something like "hey, just brought it home"
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