Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

For the love of English 3 speeds...

Old 04-14-20, 06:53 PM
  #22501  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Eastern Idaho
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Liked 328 Times in 195 Posts
Originally Posted by Ged117 View Post
I find that I have to switch the gear while pedaling forward gently, and slightly let off the pedals ever so little, almost to the point of pedaling back, and it will engage the gear.
I don't have a 4 speed, but I've owned/ridden plenty of 3 speeds and when shifting from a higher gear to a lower gear I try to pedal a bit slower that I expect to be pedalling after the gear change has occurred, your top 3 gears should operate like a 3 speed, yea?
jackbombay is offline  
Old 04-15-20, 06:45 AM
  #22502  
Ged117 
Senior Member
 
Ged117's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 326

Bikes: 1950 Raleigh Superbe, 1977 Peugeot AO8, 1990 Schwinn Voyageur

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 205 Post(s)
Liked 83 Times in 51 Posts
Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
I don't have a 4 speed, but I've owned/ridden plenty of 3 speeds and when shifting from a higher gear to a lower gear I try to pedal a bit slower that I expect to be pedalling after the gear change has occurred, your top 3 gears should operate like a 3 speed, yea?
The top 3 work like an AW, and the 4th or bottom gear puts everything in tight adjustment. I don't think the shifter has the strength to hold it for very long. I just wanted to make sure that the shifting is working as intended. Still, it is really fun to operate. I've read on UK cycling forums that people still take long tours around the country with their '40s, '50s, '60s, Sturmey hubs.
Ged117 is offline  
Likes For Ged117:
Old 04-15-20, 08:37 AM
  #22503  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Eastern Idaho
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Liked 328 Times in 195 Posts
Originally Posted by Ged117 View Post
I've read on UK cycling forums that people still take long tours around the country with their '40s, '50s, '60s, Sturmey hubs.
Last summer I rode a century (and a few half centuries) on my restomod 3 speed hercules, I have some big plans for my recently resto-modded 5 speed sturmey Sprite, but Covid may throw a wrench into those plans, hard to say right now...
jackbombay is offline  
Likes For jackbombay:
Old 04-15-20, 08:52 AM
  #22504  
sykerocker 
Senior Member
 
sykerocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ashland, VA
Posts: 4,270

Bikes: The keepers: 1958 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix, 1968 Ranger, 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Tourist, 3 - 1986 Rossins, and a '77 PX-10 frame in process.

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 171 Post(s)
Liked 111 Times in 68 Posts
Originally Posted by Ged117 View Post
These FW four-speeds are a devil to get adjusted just right. I think I finally have the cable tension and adjustment on my FW correct, and no play at the hub either. Shifting from Bottom gear > Low gear > Normal gear > High gear works okay (Bottom gear is tough - I think the shifter is weak being 65 years old, and I may find a newer four-speed shifter). However, shifting from High gear to Normal and on down through the range takes a little finesse. I find that I have to switch the gear while pedaling forward gently, and slightly let off the pedals ever so little, almost to the point of pedaling back, and it will engage the gear. However, it was not doing that when I had a little play at the hub and the shifter was loosely mounted to the bar via zip-tie. It simply engaged up or down while pedaling forward gently. I'm not sure what has changed, other than the cones being adjusted for no play. The cable adjustment remains as per instructions. It is a commuter / all-rounder bike and so I'm not expecting to take my four-speed on week-long tours in the rolling English countryside like owners did back when, engaging Bottom gear constantly, but still I'd like it to work a little better. Salubrious just wondering if you could chime in since I know you own a few four-speeds. Does the S5 conversion solve this issue?
My experience with the S5 (I use my '69 Sprite as one of my two daily commuters) is that, given the kludginess of the left side actuation, I don't treat it as a 1-2-3-4-5 five-speed. I tend to run the bike as a dual range three-speed: With the left lever forward, I'm running 2-3-4 off the right side. With the left lever back, I'm running 1-3-5 off the right side. Now, my setup is completely factory stock except for the right side being controlled by a plain old AW handlebar switch since I've broken the right side lever twice now in my six year ownership of the bike. I've yet to find a third replacement, and if I do it's just going to get bagged and stored, and offered with the bike should I ever decide to sell it. At the moment, highly unlikely.

With a 23t sprocket on the hub, the bike is slightly under geared for me (a 21 or 22 would be better) so using it as a dual-range works fine. About the only time I wish it shifted better are on some lazy days when I want to climb my driveway and am feeling lazy. At which point, I stop the bike, get the left side actuated, and with the right side in low, climb the slight hill in first. If the bike's in one of it's ornery moods and won't shift, I just climb the hill in second and mutter slightly.
__________________
Syke

"No wonder we keep testing positive in their bicycle races. Everyone looks like they're full of testosterone when they're surrounded by Frenchmen." ---Argus Hamilton
sykerocker is offline  
Old 04-15-20, 10:30 AM
  #22505  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Eastern Idaho
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Liked 328 Times in 195 Posts
Originally Posted by sykerocker View Post
given the kludginess of the left side actuation
Left side is certainly not as satisfying to shift as the right side!

It took me a bit of tinkering to get it figured out, but I've determined that the best way to shift the left side is to have a slight bit of tension on the drivetrain, its of course totally unlike shifting the right side, and it took me a bit for this to become intuitive, keeping the drivetrain slightly loaded for the 4 to 5 shift. the 2 to 1 shift is the same loading the drive train slightly in second will allow it to go into first easier than no load on the drivetrain, shifting from 2 to 1 has the advantage that when the shift occurs the cranks want to spin faster so having that slight load on the drivetrain is more intuitive.

Shifting from 5 to 4 or 1 to 2 should always be easy/smooth.
jackbombay is offline  
Old 04-15-20, 11:08 AM
  #22506  
Salubrious
Senior Member
 
Salubrious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,329

Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 219 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by Ged117 View Post
These FW four-speeds are a devil to get adjusted just right. I think I finally have the cable tension and adjustment on my FW correct, and no play at the hub either. Shifting from Bottom gear > Low gear > Normal gear > High gear works okay (Bottom gear is tough - I think the shifter is weak being 65 years old, and I may find a newer four-speed shifter). However, shifting from High gear to Normal and on down through the range takes a little finesse. I find that I have to switch the gear while pedaling forward gently, and slightly let off the pedals ever so little, almost to the point of pedaling back, and it will engage the gear. However, it was not doing that when I had a little play at the hub and the shifter was loosely mounted to the bar via zip-tie. It simply engaged up or down while pedaling forward gently. I'm not sure what has changed, other than the cones being adjusted for no play. The cable adjustment remains as per instructions. It is a commuter / all-rounder bike and so I'm not expecting to take my four-speed on week-long tours in the rolling English countryside like owners did back when, engaging Bottom gear constantly, but still I'd like it to work a little better. Salubrious just wondering if you could chime in since I know you own a few four-speeds. Does the S5 conversion solve this issue?
I've stayed away from the 5 speed conversion. 4 speeds are cool just as they are.

To adjust the shifter, in low the cable should be only just tight enough so that the toggle chain is as far out as it will go. It doesn't do to put any further tension on the shift cable beyond that- such will only lead to poor shifting. If this is set right, getting into low is easier. I really like the 4 speed concept, as the bike becomes considerably more practical, but I don't trust the shifter when climbing out of the saddle in low, so I hold it in low so it can't jump out of gear. But this is also the gear in which the hub gets the most abuse; I've got two of them that skip nastily in low.
Salubrious is online now  
Old 04-15-20, 12:40 PM
  #22507  
sykerocker 
Senior Member
 
sykerocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ashland, VA
Posts: 4,270

Bikes: The keepers: 1958 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix, 1968 Ranger, 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Tourist, 3 - 1986 Rossins, and a '77 PX-10 frame in process.

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 171 Post(s)
Liked 111 Times in 68 Posts
Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
Left side is certainly not as satisfying to shift as the right side!

It took me a bit of tinkering to get it figured out, but I've determined that the best way to shift the left side is to have a slight bit of tension on the drivetrain, its of course totally unlike shifting the right side, and it took me a bit for this to become intuitive, keeping the drivetrain slightly loaded for the 4 to 5 shift. the 2 to 1 shift is the same loading the drive train slightly in second will allow it to go into first easier than no load on the drivetrain, shifting from 2 to 1 has the advantage that when the shift occurs the cranks want to spin faster so having that slight load on the drivetrain is more intuitive.

Shifting from 5 to 4 or 1 to 2 should always be easy/smooth.
Thanks for the insight, will give it a try in this afternoon's ride.
__________________
Syke

"No wonder we keep testing positive in their bicycle races. Everyone looks like they're full of testosterone when they're surrounded by Frenchmen." ---Argus Hamilton
sykerocker is offline  
Old 04-15-20, 12:43 PM
  #22508  
oldveloman
Senior Member
 
oldveloman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Belgium
Posts: 55

Bikes: 1954 BSA 900E Roadster, 1961 Triumph Sports, 1953 Raleigh Sports, 1980 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Twenty, 1951 Taxandria, 1950 The Gold Lion Tandem

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Hi all,

My '54 BSA was in need of a serious service, so I took apart the Bottom Bracket.
There was sufficient wear on the axle and cups, so I dug up my box of spare BB-parts, only to find out BSA used a different pitch than Raleigh...
Also, the nuts on the BSA 3speed are different than the Sturmey Archer ones.
Anyone knows the size or has some spare parts lists or anything to confirm?

Peter

oldveloman is offline  
Old 04-15-20, 01:03 PM
  #22509  
Salubrious
Senior Member
 
Salubrious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,329

Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 219 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by oldveloman View Post
Hi all,

My '54 BSA was in need of a serious service, so I took apart the Bottom Bracket.
There was sufficient wear on the axle and cups, so I dug up my box of spare BB-parts, only to find out BSA used a different pitch than Raleigh...
Also, the nuts on the BSA 3speed are different than the Sturmey Archer ones.
Anyone knows the size or has some spare parts lists or anything to confirm?

Peter
Raleigh had their own thread pitch of course; didn't BSA just use the same English thread everyone else other than Raleigh used?
Salubrious is online now  
Likes For Salubrious:
Old 04-15-20, 06:24 PM
  #22510  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,115

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 133 Times in 96 Posts
BSA should be 24 TPI
while Raleigh was 26 TPI
it's worse that buying ink for a printer.....
gster is offline  
Old 04-15-20, 07:52 PM
  #22511  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Eastern Idaho
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Liked 328 Times in 195 Posts
Originally Posted by gster View Post
BSA should be 24 TPI
while Raleigh was 26 TPI
it's worse that buying ink for a printer.....
The old raleigh 3 speeds had a 71mm wide BB shell too, but my 1972 Raleigh 10 speed had a 65 mm wide BB shell, uhhhh, industry standard is 68mm guys? Well, I'm not sure when 68 became standard, but Raleigh is all over the map with BB shell widths...
jackbombay is offline  
Old 04-15-20, 08:18 PM
  #22512  
clubman 
Youngman Grand
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 6,461

Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic

Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1379 Post(s)
Liked 400 Times in 277 Posts
Originally Posted by jackbombay View Post
The old raleigh 3 speeds had a 71mm wide BB shell too, but my 1972 Raleigh 10 speed had a 65 mm wide BB shell, uhhhh, industry standard is 68mm guys? Well, I'm not sure when 68 became standard, but Raleigh is all over the map with BB shell widths...
Frames are often butchered by the guy in charge on facing the BB's in shops. They get used to shaving x amount of turns off a BB without bothering to actually check before it's too late. Human nature in a production environment.
I watched it happen to a high end EL-OS frame as the mech talked on a cell phone while facing. The BB had to have spacers inserted on drive side to compensate for the error.
clubman is offline  
Old 04-15-20, 10:15 PM
  #22513  
jackbombay
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Eastern Idaho
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Liked 328 Times in 195 Posts
Originally Posted by clubman View Post
Frames are often butchered by the guy in charge on facing the BB's in shops. They get used to shaving x amount of turns off a BB without bothering to actually check before it's too late. Human nature in a production environment.
I watched it happen to a high end EL-OS frame as the mech talked on a cell phone while facing. The BB had to have spacers inserted on drive side to compensate for the error.
Humans are fallible for sue, bit every old three speed I have messed with has a VERY wide BB shell and the 2 super course frames I have messed with have very narrow BB shells.
jackbombay is offline  
Old 04-16-20, 07:35 AM
  #22514  
BigChief 
Senior Member
 
BigChief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,225
Mentioned: 102 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1290 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 80 Times in 67 Posts
Originally Posted by Fat Tire Trader View Post

1950 ? BSA
Very interesting bike. I don't know as much about Birmingham bikes as I do Raleigh, but I can date the Sturmey Archer trigger shifter to the mid 50s. There should be a date stamped in the rear hub shell. Nice bike. Those original handlebar grips are super rare. Very worthy project.
__________________
Inflate Hard
BigChief is offline  
Old 04-16-20, 08:01 AM
  #22515  
Ged117 
Senior Member
 
Ged117's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 326

Bikes: 1950 Raleigh Superbe, 1977 Peugeot AO8, 1990 Schwinn Voyageur

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 205 Post(s)
Liked 83 Times in 51 Posts
Originally Posted by sykerocker View Post
My experience with the S5 (I use my '69 Sprite as one of my two daily commuters) is that, given the kludginess of the left side actuation, I don't treat it as a 1-2-3-4-5 five-speed. I tend to run the bike as a dual range three-speed: With the left lever forward, I'm running 2-3-4 off the right side. With the left lever back, I'm running 1-3-5 off the right side. Now, my setup is completely factory stock except for the right side being controlled by a plain old AW handlebar switch since I've broken the right side lever twice now in my six year ownership of the bike. I've yet to find a third replacement, and if I do it's just going to get bagged and stored, and offered with the bike should I ever decide to sell it. At the moment, highly unlikely.

With a 23t sprocket on the hub, the bike is slightly under geared for me (a 21 or 22 would be better) so using it as a dual-range works fine. About the only time I wish it shifted better are on some lazy days when I want to climb my driveway and am feeling lazy. At which point, I stop the bike, get the left side actuated, and with the right side in low, climb the slight hill in first. If the bike's in one of it's ornery moods and won't shift, I just climb the hill in second and mutter slightly.
Good information, thanks. Ideally, I'd like to stay with the four-speed. The extra low makes the bike far more useful to me in my riding here in the Ottawa River valley, and I've just serviced the hub with a good clean, bearings, and grease. I'm currently running 48t x 18t and it is a blast to ride with my nice-riding but heavier AO8 frame. I'm keen to try this wheelset on my lighter '50s Armstrong Reynolds 531 frame once it's ready. Then the AO8 will become my first fixed-gear road bike and general experimental frame.

Originally Posted by Salubrious View Post
I've stayed away from the 5 speed conversion. 4 speeds are cool just as they are.

To adjust the shifter, in low the cable should be only just tight enough so that the toggle chain is as far out as it will go. It doesn't do to put any further tension on the shift cable beyond that- such will only lead to poor shifting. If this is set right, getting into low is easier. I really like the 4 speed concept, as the bike becomes considerably more practical, but I don't trust the shifter when climbing out of the saddle in low, so I hold it in low so it can't jump out of gear. But this is also the gear in which the hub gets the most abuse; I've got two of them that skip nastily in low.
Thanks for this Salubrious . I have it adjusted so that in Low, the end of the control rod is flush with the end of the left side axle end (as per Sturmey instructions). If I try your method, I'm thinking it will be slightly tighter and the shifting may improve. Does that sound right?
Ged117 is offline  
Old 04-16-20, 08:48 AM
  #22516  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,115

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 133 Times in 96 Posts
gster is offline  
Old 04-16-20, 08:52 AM
  #22517  
Cyclist30923
Banned.
 
Join Date: Mar 2020
Posts: 34
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 6 Posts
I plan on retiring this summer. One project I am planning to tackle is my 1972 three speed Raleigh Chopper. My goal is to restore it to rideable condition. The bike is about 80 percent complete, and the Sturmey hub appears to be working.
Cyclist30923 is offline  
Old 04-16-20, 11:54 AM
  #22518  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,115

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 133 Times in 96 Posts
Originally Posted by Kratebiker View Post
I plan on retiring this summer. One project I am planning to tackle is my 1972 three speed Raleigh Chopper. My goal is to restore it to rideable condition. The bike is about 80 percent complete, and the Sturmey hub appears to be working.
This is the right place for information.
gster is offline  
Old 04-16-20, 12:36 PM
  #22519  
Fat Tire Trader 
Senior Member
 
Fat Tire Trader's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: San Quentin California
Posts: 73

Bikes: https://www.fattiretrading.com/collection.html

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Liked 23 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
Very interesting bike. I don't know as much about Birmingham bikes as I do Raleigh, but I can date the Sturmey Archer trigger shifter to the mid 50s. There should be a date stamped in the rear hub shell. Nice bike. Those original handlebar grips are super rare. Very worthy project.
The Sturmey shifter is not original. In the picture you can see a BSA shifter hanging from the handlebar. I believe it is the correct shifter. The bike has a BSA 3 speed hub, not a Sturmey. As far as I know, BSA hubs are not dated.
Fat Tire Trader is offline  
Old 04-16-20, 12:56 PM
  #22520  
Salubrious
Senior Member
 
Salubrious's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 1,329

Bikes: Too many 3-speeds, Jones Plus LWB

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 219 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times in 12 Posts
Originally Posted by Ged117 View Post
Thanks for this Salubrious . I have it adjusted so that in Low, the end of the control rod is flush with the end of the left side axle end (as per Sturmey instructions). If I try your method, I'm thinking it will be slightly tighter and the shifting may improve. Does that sound right?
I'm a bit dubious. You really don't want that shift cable to be any tighter than needed! I go by the extension of the toggle chain method simply because I don't trust that the chain and associated hardware is correct and original.
Salubrious is online now  
Old 04-16-20, 07:14 PM
  #22521  
sykerocker 
Senior Member
 
sykerocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ashland, VA
Posts: 4,270

Bikes: The keepers: 1958 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix, 1968 Ranger, 1969 Magneet Sprint, 1971 Gitane Tour de France, 1973 Raleigh Tourist, 3 - 1986 Rossins, and a '77 PX-10 frame in process.

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 171 Post(s)
Liked 111 Times in 68 Posts
Originally Posted by Ged117 View Post
Good information, thanks. Ideally, I'd like to stay with the four-speed. The extra low makes the bike far more useful to me in my riding here in the Ottawa River valley, and I've just serviced the hub with a good clean, bearings, and grease. I'm currently running 48t x 18t and it is a blast to ride with my nice-riding but heavier AO8 frame. I'm keen to try this wheelset on my lighter '50s Armstrong Reynolds 531 frame once it's ready. Then the AO8 will become my first fixed-gear road bike and general experimental frame.
I've never had a four-speed, have always wanted one, because they seemed to make the most sense to me. While I love the first gear on the S5, I rarely use the fifth. My attitude is usually "who really needs the overdrive, it's only good on downhills, and that's coasting time anyway", whereas the under drive on first is always appreciated to get back up the hill that was the only place you could wind fifth out in. In my general commuting area, I have three different shopping malls within a four mile radius of my house, two pretty much on the level, the third is about 500' in elevation below my house. That's when I really appreciate the S5.
__________________
Syke

"No wonder we keep testing positive in their bicycle races. Everyone looks like they're full of testosterone when they're surrounded by Frenchmen." ---Argus Hamilton
sykerocker is offline  
Old 04-17-20, 09:17 AM
  #22522  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,115

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 133 Times in 96 Posts
Interesting Bike
here is an early 60's Raleigh built Glider.
Built for Eatons dept stores.

Clearly branded as a Glider it also has a Superb sticker on the downtube

It also has the white accents seen on Canadian bikes as well as a Dyno Hub.
The chrome fenders and chain guard are also common to Gliders.
It lacks a locking fork.
Bike appears in excellent condition with an asking price of $380.00 CDN...
Still a bargain when you consider inflation.
gster is offline  
Likes For gster:
Old 04-18-20, 01:17 PM
  #22523  
nlerner
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 13,089
Mentioned: 287 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1571 Post(s)
Liked 655 Times in 383 Posts
Nicely preserved 23" men's Sports on the Boston-area CL for a reasonable price:

https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...104499339.html
nlerner is online now  
Old 04-18-20, 01:48 PM
  #22524  
arex
Abuse Magnet
 
arex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,688

Bikes: '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, '74 Raleigh Sports, '72 Raleigh Twenty, '84 Univega Gran Turismo, '09 Surly Karate Monkey, '92 Burley Rock-n-Roll

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 88 Post(s)
Liked 24 Times in 13 Posts
Originally Posted by Ged117 View Post
I've come to terms with the fact that the 1950 Superbe is too small for me. It is the 23" size, but I'm 6'2" or 6'3"ish and mostly legs. The seatpost is too short, and the handlebar stem is way too short. I can't ride it anymore unless I can find a longer post and a longer stem. I'd really like to enjoy this bike and put it in the regular ride and (one day...) commute rotation without sore knees. Anybody got the scoop on longer stem / seatposts that fit these bikes?

Thanks all.
https://www.laxzo.com/vavert-micro-a...st-14385-p.asp
arex is offline  
Old 04-18-20, 03:00 PM
  #22525  
gster
Senior Member
 
gster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,115

Bikes: 1971 Hercules, 1978 Raleigh Superbe, 1978 Raleigh Tourist, 1964 Glider 3 Speed, 1967 Raleigh Sprite 5 Speed, 1968 Hercules AMF 3 Speed, 1972 Raleigh Superbe, 1976 Raleigh Superbe, 1957 Flying Pigeon, 1967 Dunelt 3 Speed

Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 133 Times in 96 Posts
Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
Nicely preserved 23" men's Sports on the Boston-area CL for a reasonable price:

https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...104499339.html
That is a good deal.
Two bikes, both with leather saddles.
gster is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.