Jamie85

Hey,

My partner and I got new Pinnacle Laterite bikes from Evans. Poor pickup experience and guidance aside, we've both been having some issues with our gears & indexing.

To the best of my ability I sorted out the limits & indexing on both bikes, but there has still been some noises coming from the rear derailleur, particularly when in the smallest rear cog.

I took my bike back to Evans for them to check over, and the mechanic went through all the gears and said that it's fine (I asked about the noise in the smallest cog and he said he adjusted a limit screw).

However, the noises still persist.

What seems to be happening is that every few chain links, the chain gets slightly stuck and then 'pops' as it continues it's movement, and this happens around the upper jockey wheel as the chain passes over the top.

Here's a video to showcase the noise, and I've slowed down the movement to show this chain 'popping'. This happens throughout, but the first few are around 7s, 17s and 21s, and a different angle at 34s. I then spin the wheels from 57s so you can hear how it sounds when pedalling normally, and also catch the spokes a bit with my phone at 1:06, oops!

youtu. be/3xCE9qHFFeQ

Any ideas what this might be? I don't have much faith in Evans fixing it, but don't want to have to shell out more when the bike is new and barely used, with shifting issues since the start.

I'm happy to take it back to Evans and press further, but being armed with some better ideas might help me first!

Help appreciated

Thanks,
Jamie

John Nolan 

Sorry, the video link doesn't seem to work.
From your description, it might be that the indexing isn't set up properly, and the chain is between gears.
First, identify the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur, and try turning it half a turn either clockwise or counterclockwise. If this makes things worse, set the adjuster half a turn the other way, and see if that helps. If neither direction helps, restore it to its original position, and report back.

Jamie85

Hi John,

Link should work if you remove the space between the tu. be part - I had to do that as it wouldn't let me post a link with under 10 posts. I'll try again here without the space: youtu.be/3xCE9qHFFeQ

I've spent quite a long time on the indexing and tested various different positions, with the position I've got it in at the moment the best I can get it. So turning neither direction helps! I also took it back into the shop and the mechanic tested, but still having the issue. Would presume they also set it up as best they could/thinking it was ok!

If you're able to see the video, any other ideas? Thanks!

John Nolan 

Okay, I watched the video, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. There does seem to be a slight click, but I can't see what might be causing it.

bwmoeling

I have run into a similar problem with a SRAM NX Eagle drivetrain. Everything was set up perfectly, it was brand new, and it still had issues with the smoothness of the chain going over the jockey wheels. I am sorry to say, I wasn't able to solve the problem, and I ended up having to return the bike for other reasons. I think it might just be a fact of life with cheaper drivetrains. You're running a Sora drivetrain, it may be that it will just never be as buttery smooth as something higher up the food chain.

tFUnK

Stiff link in the chain? Try to identify the stiff links and work it back and forth to try to loosen the movement. Add grease or oil to give it some encouragement.

cyccommute 

It’s not a limit screw problem. Derailer problems are (almost) never a limit screw problem. Nor is it a stiff link problem...those are obvious. It’s a cable issue. Usually the cables are too slack but yours looks to be that the cable is too tight. It’s pulling the derailer just slightly so that the chain is engaging one of the teeth on the second cog. Put the bike in the high gear and use your index finger to “pick” the cable like you would a guitar string. It should have a bit of twang to it but it shouldn’t be really tight like a guitar string would be. Turn the adjuster on the back of the derailer outboard (moves it in and puts slack on the inner cable) while pedaling on the stand. Turn it slightly and listen for the sound to go away. A quarter of a turn will be a lot.

Jamie85

Thanks all! Will try the cable tension fix this week and report back cyccommute Just to be clear, I'm turning the barrel adjuster so that the derailleur moves in towards the wheel, or the other way? A clockwise or counterclockwise turn?

cyccommute 

The cable seems a little too tight. It’s pulling the derailer over enough so that it catches the next cog and skips. You want to loosen the inner cable so turn the barrel adjuster on the derailer to the right away from the wheel.