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Building a 1980 Peugeot

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Building a 1980 Peugeot

Old 04-04-20, 10:02 PM
  #1  
disco_kevin30
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Building a 1980 Peugeot


Going to start this project pretty soon. I am conflicted on the direction I want to take it. I was initially going to keep it mostly period correct and French but I am second guessing that. For one, parts can be pricey and I already have enough stuff around to build it; it will just be mismatched. I ordered some wheels off eBay last night. They aren't necessarily what I wanted but I have a budget I am trying to stick to and they came with tires, a 6 spd freewheel, and Shimano 600 hubs. I was given a Swiss bb which works pretty well with the Stronglight cranks I have, though they sit a little inboard there is more than enough clearance at the rings so they won't rub the frame. I will give it a shot and see if I need to find another.

One hang up is French thread pedals are rather pricey. I was looking at taps to modify them to 9/16" but the price is similar between the tools and the pedals so I haven't made a decision yet.

Currently just buying the basics: seat post, stem, bars etc. before I get more into the details of derailleurs and what not. Anyway, I can post photos and updates as I build if anyone is interested.
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Old 04-04-20, 10:21 PM
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Get them tapped at a shop, unless you plan on doing more.
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Old 04-04-20, 10:25 PM
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Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Honestly, I will probably just end up buying the pedals.
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Old 04-05-20, 02:39 AM
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Details, Details, Details

Are the pedals or cranks marked 14mm x 1.25 ??? My 1983 PSV-10 has British threaded pedals.



Note the only the 3 main tubes on your frame are Reynolds 531. The forks and rear stays are standard Peugeot tubing which was reasonably light so on a frame that size shouldn't affect the ride very much.

It should take a 26.4mm seat post and probably a 22.0mm metric stem.

Also, the BB is likely to have Swiss metric threads - the fixed cup maybe LH threaded. Note the ring around the outside of the fixed cup.




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Old 04-05-20, 03:13 AM
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Nice looking bike! I am really excited for the build. Its funny, I had planned on using orange bar tape as well.

To answer, yes the cranks are labeled 24x1.25. I have a the bottom bracket and it is in fact Swiss. The only reason I may need to get another is the spindle is slightly narrow for the cranks. They are slightly inboard but not enough to rub or strike the frame. I figured I would give it a shot before searching for a new one.

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Old 04-05-20, 07:09 AM
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I really like this generation of Peugeots with this color scheme. This is a PKN 10 and I had a blue one that I used to ride.

Swiss BBs are tough to find but IRD sells adapter cups for their bottom brackets. These are the least expensive that I know of if buying new. $25 for the cups plus the BB: https://www.interlocracing.com/shop/...cups-pair-2839

That will give you choices in BB length. Alternatively, just find a longer stronglight spindle. eBay France is a good place to hunt for them but I got lucky and picked up on here on the C&V for sale forum.

One neat thing about the simplex drop out is that it is tapped and has a stop so you don't need to run a simplex RD. I have a 1982 Peugeot PXN 10. The RD was shot and I found on eBay the right simplex replacement derailleur but if I had to do it all over again, I'd just run any decent RD that I had on hand as opposed to paying eBay prices for Simplex RDs.

Here is mine, welcome to the club of white Pugs with the orange lettering, .


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Old 04-05-20, 07:16 AM
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By the way, the easiest (and cheapest) way to solve your problem is to get a 1 mm BB spacer and run it inside the fixed cup. That should fix your problem.

$16 for a bag of 10 from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufa.../dp/B0025UINFC

https://wheelsmfg.com/products/botto...rs/fw-1-0.html

If you don't have one and you're interested, let me know.

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Old 04-05-20, 10:58 AM
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I am not well versed in Peugeots, especially the french ones. Could you find the same crank with English threads?

I'd check with some local shops, even try auto machine shops about simply having your cranks retapped. It is my understnad you need fancy long lead taps to do the job. IIRC they have a long taper reamer on them to clear the old threads and then the section to cut new threads.
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Old 04-05-20, 11:12 AM
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If it helps, I can forward you pair of Lyotard dual platform rat trap French threaded pedals. Not the lightest or racey but will get one pedaling. I picked them up at a swap meet, just for these special moments with a French bike. Lol

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Old 04-05-20, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by crank_addict View Post
If it helps, I can forward you pair of Lyotard dual platform rat trap French threaded pedals. Not the lightest or racey but will get one pedaling. I picked them up at a swap meet, just for these special moments with a French bike. Lol

Throw in those boots and you can make some coin on eBay with those pedals . . .
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Old 04-06-20, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
I really like this generation of Peugeots with this color scheme. This is a PKN 10 and I had a blue one that I used to ride.

Swiss BBs are tough to find but IRD sells adapter cups for their bottom brackets. These are the least expensive that I know of if buying new. $25 for the cups plus the BB: https://www.interlocracing.com/shop/...cups-pair-2839

That will give you choices in BB length. Alternatively, just find a longer stronglight spindle. eBay France is a good place to hunt for them but I got lucky and picked up on here on the C&V for sale forum.

One neat thing about the simplex drop out is that it is tapped and has a stop so you don't need to run a simplex RD. I have a 1982 Peugeot PXN 10. The RD was shot and I found on eBay the right simplex replacement derailleur but if I had to do it all over again, I'd just run any decent RD that I had on hand as opposed to paying eBay prices for Simplex RDs.

Here is mine, welcome to the club of white Pugs with the orange lettering, .

I agree about the color scheme of this generation. Yours looks great! I had wanted an old Peugeot for a long time and a year or so ago I purchased this frame and a PX10 frame of the same year. I had intended to build them sooner but between other projects and work and they got lost in the shuffle. I am really excited to get them rolling though.

Thank you for the resources regarding the Swiss bb. Wheels come in the mail on Thursday so I am going to take some measurements and see if my current set up will work. I will probably order some of those spacers anyway. Since I have been locked in doors I built a single speed and could use a minor chain line adjustment.

"I am not well versed in Peugeots, especially the french ones. Could you find the same crank with English threads?

I'd check with some local shops, even try auto machine shops about simply having your cranks retapped. It is my understnad you need fancy long lead taps to do the job. IIRC they have a long taper reamer on them to clear the old threads and then the section to cut new threads"


The price for a re-tap and the pedals will be similar so its pretty much a matter of deciding if I want more options or a I am cool with just sticking to whatever pair I end up with.

If it helps, I can forward you pair of Lyotard dual platform rat trap French threaded pedals. Not the lightest or racey but will get one pedaling. I picked them up at a swap meet, just for these special moments with a French bike. Lol

Hey! If I understand correctly you are offering to mail some pedals? That would be awesome! I have never purchased/traded anything with members so if there is some etiquette I am missing I apologize. Feel free to message me so we can work out the details.

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Old 04-06-20, 12:17 PM
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Here's the pedals. Very nice and could easily be near new with taking up a bit of cleaning. (D - G French threaded) type 49, I believe. PM me your shipping address.




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Old 04-06-20, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by disco_kevin30 View Post

One hang up is French thread pedals are rather pricey. I was looking at taps to modify them to 9/16" but the price is similar between the tools and the pedals so I haven't made a decision yet.
Quick question: Did you buy the crank used? If so, it would be worthwhile to try and gently thread in a standard set of 9/16 pedals you have lying around, just in case a previous owner modified the threads already. Not everything gets documented or communicated.
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Old 04-06-20, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by noobinsf View Post
Quick question: Did you buy the crank used? If so, it would be worthwhile to try and gently thread in a standard set of 9/16 pedals you have lying around, just in case a previous owner modified the threads already. Not everything gets documented or communicated.

Yes, they are used. I attempted to thread a 9/16" pedal when I first started looking at the parts I had and the cranks have not been altered.
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Old 04-06-20, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by crank_addict View Post

Here's the pedals. Very nice and could easily be near new with taking up a bit of cleaning. (D - G French threaded) type 49, I believe. PM me your shipping address.




They look great! I sent you a message. I made a mistake on the address though. Its 57th st. I doubt the absence of the St would matter but I have had a few problems with mail here. Anyway, thanks again!
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Old 04-09-20, 10:33 PM
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Wheels came today. They aren't exactly what I wanted but they aren't so bad. Wolber TX Profil.
​​​​​​
The tire sidewalls are a little crunchy.

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Old 04-10-20, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by disco_kevin30 View Post
Wheels came today. They aren't exactly what I wanted but they aren't so bad. Wolber TX Profil.
​​​​​​
The tire sidewalls are a little crunchy.

Classic aero wheels. What do you mean by 'crunchy'?
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Old 04-10-20, 09:42 AM
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Looking good. Which crank are you using? I really like the stronglight 99. You can run a compact with it as it goes down as small as 28 teeth. Chainrings are still available for it (it's an 86 bcd crank) via Spa cycles in the UK.

For tires, panaracer protite tires are good. The price is decent, they have good flat protection, and the weight is good. Plus they look right on an old bike.

Brakes? Tough to beat mafac racers and the price on them isn't bad even via eBay.

Derailleurs? You don't have to run a simplex with that drop out.
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Old 04-10-20, 10:32 AM
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The inboard crank positioning sounds ideal, so long as the inner chainring isn't actually contacting the chainstay, and as long as the front derailer can still pull the chain down to the small ring with authority.
Such a short chainline is what I always strive for, cuts down noticeably on the friction and noise when when I am using the larger cogs, especially while trying to hold onto speed by staying on the big chainring.
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Old 04-10-20, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
Classic aero wheels. What do you mean by 'crunchy'?
The sidewalls are dry and cracking. There is visible thread. It's not quite the dry rot crumbly thread but they aren't looking great either.
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Old 04-10-20, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
Looking good. Which crank are you using? I really like the stronglight 99. You can run a compact with it as it goes down as small as 28 teeth. Chainrings are still available for it (it's an 86 bcd crank) via Spa cycles in the UK.

For tires, panaracer protite tires are good. The price is decent, they have good flat protection, and the weight is good. Plus they look right on an old bike.

Brakes? Tough to beat mafac racers and the price on them isn't bad even via eBay.

Derailleurs? You don't have to run a simplex with that drop out.
The crank will be what I believe is a Stronglight ts? Please correct me if I am wrong.


I have a couple of tires that I had planned to be spares but I will will probably put them on for the time being. They are mismatched but I am not planning to sell and I don't mind. It's better then getting old and dry and tossing them. I will keep your suggestion in mind though.

The brakes I haven't decided on yet. I just got the wheels yesterday and I was waiting for them so I could measure and get the correct reach. From there I will look at eBay and find something I like. I have a set of Racers but I think they are missing a few parts; I got them for free.

Speaking of derailleurs, what are good options for front? The tubing is 28mm. Are there shins to fit a 28.6?

It was also commented above that the seat post should be a 26.4 but I measured and remeasured and I get 26.6. I want to be totally sure I get the right sizes so I don't have to deal with eBay returns.
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Old 04-10-20, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dddd View Post
The inboard crank positioning sounds ideal, so long as the inner chainring isn't actually contacting the chainstay, and as long as the front derailer can still pull the chain down to the small ring with authority.
Such a short chainline is what I always strive for, cuts down noticeably on the friction and noise when when I am using the larger cogs, especially while trying to hold onto speed by staying on the big chainring.
How inboard do you run it though? Between rings to center of seat tube is 40mm.



This is where it's at before being tightened at the crank bolt. I feel like I could use another mm or 2. The spindle is 121.5mm and from what I have read I think this specific crank should take a 122, which seems like it would be close enough, but it looks a little tight to me. I will measure the rear chain line today before I make any purchases, though . Spacers may be enough to correct a potential problem.
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Old 04-10-20, 02:47 PM
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Seatposts are really hard to measure without a seat tube gauge of some sort. Pretty much all the French Reynolds 531 bikes that I've seen are 26.4

Yeah that's a stronglight touring sport 3 arm crank:

VeloBase.com - Component: Stronglight Touring Sport Bis

Chain rings won't be easy to find for it but it doesn't matter because you have two for it.

For brakes, I'd use mafac racers. They just look cool on a French bike and they're good brakes. Kool stop makes brake pads for them.

You can use any derailleur you want on that drop out. Simplex prices are a bit crazy. I'd think about running campy on this as well. Also keep your eye out for huret new success rear derailleur. They tend to fly under the radar price wise but they're pretty decent.

Sachs-Huret New Success derailleur (47.1D)

Here are some good ideas for what you can do to deal with the front derailleur:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...amp-shims.html
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Old 04-10-20, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by disco_kevin30 View Post
How inboard do you run it though? Between rings to center of seat tube is 40mm.
This is where it's at before being tightened at the crank bolt. I feel like I could use another mm or 2. The spindle is 121.5mm and from what I have read I think this specific crank should take a 122, which seems like it would be close enough, but it looks a little tight to me. I will measure the rear chain line today before I make any purchases, though . Spacers may be enough to correct a potential problem.
I typically run mine at only 43mm to the center of the outer chainring, so yours is what I would call perfect unless you have moved the freewheel as super-close to the driveside dropout as mine (since I re-spaced my rear axle).

Does your front derailer adequately shift down to the small chainring? If not, then an incremental 1 or 2mm fixed-cup spacer might be all that you need.

For verification, I would get my head in front of the crankset and view rearward. The sides of the big chainring are good sighting planes, from where you can look back to where the big ring sits along the freewheel cogs. I would sight along the inner side of the big ring back to the 3rd-smallest cog of a 6-speed freewheel, what I would call perfect as long as the front derailer can handle it.
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Old 04-10-20, 05:46 PM
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Bikes: 1959 & 1960 Capo; 1982 Bianchi; 1988 Schwinn KOM-10;

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You guys are making me yearn for one of the best all-rounder bikes I ever owned -- a 1980 PKN-10. I changed to a Sugino touring triple, which required a Sugino fixed cup, which I forced to conform to the Peugeot's Swiss BB's mm thread pitch. (Don't try this with steel cups, for obvious reasons. ) I ran it with a short cage Cyclone II rear derailleur and the Simplex front. When I gave it to my elder son because he is 3" taller than I am and a much better fit to the frame, I put the Simplex derailleur back on and gave him a bit wider gearing than I had been using (52-45-34 / 13-15-17-19-21-23-26 vs. my very nice half-step-plus-granny 48-45-34 / 13-15-17-19-21-23).

Enjoy your Peugeot -- fixing it up is definitely worth effort. Very balanced riding and handling characteristics, ample clearance for real 700Cx28 tires, such as Specialized Armadillos, great-looking paint and graphics, even if a bit sloppy compared to other manufacturers. (My Bianchi of roughly the same era has much better-looking brazes, superior paint, and more evenly-applied graphics.)
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324
Capo: 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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