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Not strictly vintage but...

Old 06-23-20, 03:48 PM
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LNKFixed
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Not strictly vintage but...

I'm trying to figure out how I would go about cleaning up my cranks for my new build without damaging the logo on it. Current suggestion is to tape over it and buff the rest of it.
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Old 06-23-20, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by LNKFixed View Post
I'm trying to figure out how I would go about cleaning up my cranks for my new build without damaging the logo on it. Current suggestion is to tape over it and buff the rest of it.
Many of these are lucky to be this intact, taping it off may compromise even more, in any case it could be moot if it looks wrong after the rest is polished.
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Old 06-23-20, 04:00 PM
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Yeah, that's what you get for running raced parts. I guess I was thinking that if I used an x-acto knife to cut the tape down to fit the logo perfectly it wouldn't be noticeable, but the more I think about it the more I'm not sure I could do that without further scratching up the crank arms. Do you suppose that spot near the pedal threads on the chainring side will polish up?
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Old 06-23-20, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LNKFixed View Post
Yeah, that's what you get for running raced parts. I guess I was thinking that if I used an x-acto knife to cut the tape down to fit the logo perfectly it wouldn't be noticeable, but the more I think about it the more I'm not sure I could do that without further scratching up the crank arms. Do you suppose that spot near the pedal threads on the chainring side will polish up?
Sure, depends on if you sand or? I would proceed with caution though as you may start something that is hard to finish without changing the landscape.
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Old 06-23-20, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
Sure, depends on if you sand or? I would proceed with caution though as you may start something that is hard to finish without changing the landscape.
Not really planning on completely redoing it, just making it look decent. If I could get away with buffing it and moving on that's exactly what I'd do.
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Old 06-23-20, 05:02 PM
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If I'm not mistaken I'm pretty sure branko_76 is pretty good at polishing parts? From what I've seen of his grand prix restorstion.
​​​​​
edit: I'm also of the opinion that they look fine.

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Old 06-23-20, 05:06 PM
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Looks fine! Pedal fast and no one will notice.
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Old 06-23-20, 05:10 PM
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I’ve used clear nail polish over Suntour Cyclone, AR and Mountech screening. But that won’t protect against buffing or anything.

My guess is those cranks are anodized- I don’t think you’re taking the anodization off without taking off the lettering.

Here’s the ultimate Aluminum Polishing thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ng-thread.html
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Old 06-23-20, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by The Golden Boy View Post
Iíve used clear nail polish over Suntour Cyclone, AR and Mountech screening. But that wonít protect against buffing or anything.

My guess is those cranks are anodized- I donít think youíre taking the anodization off without taking off the lettering.

Hereís the ultimate Aluminum Polishing thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ng-thread.html

The Golden Boy, thanks for posting this thread. I amy have to revisit some cranks that I tucked away.
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Old 06-23-20, 05:59 PM
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Hard to tell how bad looking these are. The spider looks bad, but it may just be a reflection. If they really need polishing, you have to deanodize first, which will strip the black logo. It may be possible to cover the logo somehow while deanodizing. I've never tried that. If they're really bad, I might try to mask it off and give it a go. However, deanodizing and polishing are difficult enough without adding additional tasks like this. Another idea is to go ahead and fully polish and later apply a new decal that reproduces the logo.
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Old 06-23-20, 06:11 PM
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I would agree with SurferRosa, do a good polishing and re-apply a new decal (if available). In regards to the area around the pedal eye, clean it up and lightly polish but be sure to use a pedal washer to evenly distribute the axial stress on the face of the threaded area. Makes future removal easier too. You are going to rehab the pedals too right?
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Old 06-23-20, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by LNKFixed View Post
Not really planning on completely redoing it, just making it look decent. If I could get away with buffing it and moving on that's exactly what I'd do.
Good plan.
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Old 06-23-20, 07:00 PM
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They look great as is. Record, Dura Ace, and Superbe ALWAYS look great.
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Old 06-23-20, 07:30 PM
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Trying to clean these up will require removing the clear coat on the crank to get to the aluminum underneath. It will be a major undertaking to get right but if you do go that route I wish you luck. Smiles, MH
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Old 06-23-20, 08:19 PM
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I would just tape over the label then clean polish the cranks then take the tape off and do a light second cleaning polish with some wax.
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Old 06-23-20, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Piff View Post
If I'm not mistaken I'm pretty sure branko_76 is pretty good at polishing parts? From what I've seen of his grand prix restorstion.
​​​​​
edit: I'm also of the opinion that they look fine.
All of the parts from those early Raleigh's are generally raw aluminum, the OP's crank is anodized so unless he wants to remove it, he should not use anything abrasive..

For fragile finishes like anodized aluminum, I like to use NEVR-DULL wadding compound and then a micro-fiber cloth to buff it out. LNKFixed , I'm pretty sure the lettering was printed after the anodizing process so go lightly over it with whatever you decide to use.

Regarding that "Ultimate Aluminum Polishing" thread, it's pretty wordy but I didn't find a silver bullet. After years of experimenting with buffing wheels and compounds, I've found the safest and most efficient way to buff raw aluminum is a soft wire wheel mounted in a slow speed arbor, then a polishing compound, then buff with a micro-fiber cloth.

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Old 06-23-20, 09:44 PM
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btw, LNKFixed , if you can let go of the lettering, you can make those crank arms look better than new.

Here are a couple of Shimano cranks, the 600 has the original anodized finish, the 105 was badly scratched so I used fine emery cloth to remove the scratches (and the anodizing), buffed it with a soft wire wheel, then NEVR-DULL, then micro-fiber cloth as I previously described.


600 crank with original anodized finish

105 crank after finish was removed, buffed and polished

Last edited by branko_76; 06-24-20 at 05:03 AM.
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