Be careful of your Hollowtech tool
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Be careful of your Hollowtech tool
When I installed my first Hollowtech BB, I needed to buy the tool. Mind you, I despise buying such specialized tools, but it seems most new tech requires them now. I shopped around trying to find a bargain and ended up buying:
This worked fine, until I bought a bike with center lock disc brakes. They use the same locking mechanism and thought no problem when it's time to change rotors.
Well the day came, ordered the rotors and when they arrived, guess what. The tool did not work because the wheel axle protruded to far out for the tool to reach the notches.
So needed to buy:
Have I told you how much I despise new tech?
This worked fine, until I bought a bike with center lock disc brakes. They use the same locking mechanism and thought no problem when it's time to change rotors.
Well the day came, ordered the rotors and when they arrived, guess what. The tool did not work because the wheel axle protruded to far out for the tool to reach the notches.
So needed to buy:
Have I told you how much I despise new tech?
#2
Junior Member
My all time favorite specialty tool is my Maillard Helicomatic lockring tool. I got it for free from a LBS. For the unfamiliar, it also has a spoke wrench, and a bottle opener I have never used.
#3
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The Hollowtech compression bolt is supposed to be only 2 Nm tight so you could even 3d print the tool under 15 minutes.
If only the 5mm QR skewer is sticking out, you could probably just drill a 6mm hole through the center of the plastic tool.
If only the 5mm QR skewer is sticking out, you could probably just drill a 6mm hole through the center of the plastic tool.
#4
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This might have been a better choice initially. I love HT II, FWIW.
#5
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When I got my first HTII crank and bottom bracket, I also bought the Shimano TL-FC16 which sells for $3 to $4 most places. It's a single purpose plastic "wrench" that is perfectly adequate since the required preload torque on the NDS crank arm bolt is only about 1 Nm and finger tight is plenty. In fact, it's made not to accept any type of wrench to prevent overtightening.
BTW, that TL-FC32 is also the installation/removal tool for HTII bottom bracket external bearing cups so it does double duty unlike your IceToolz.
BTW, that TL-FC32 is also the installation/removal tool for HTII bottom bracket external bearing cups so it does double duty unlike your IceToolz.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The center lock for the rotor is 40N. Don't think plastic can handle that.
#7
Occam's Rotor
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It's not the $2 plastic thing. It is the bottom-bracket tool, which is also used to tighten the lock-ring for the disc brake rotor.