Proper l-screw adjustments on or off the bike
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Proper l-screw adjustments on or off the bike
My rear 105 derailleur had a hard time shifting to the largest cog so I tried readjusting my L-screw according to Park tools instructions, which go as follow :
Similar to the H screw setting, make the L screw too tight and back it out slightly until it is just right. This will provide the most protection from the derailleur shifting the chain beyond the largest cog and into the spokes. Shift the chain to the next to largest chainring in front. Shift to the second largest cog in the rear. Now, try shifting to the largest cog in order to determine where the L-limit screw is currently set. If the chain does not make the shift, than the L screw is already too tight, and that’s where we want it for now. If the chain shifts slowly to the largest cog, that is also a symptom of a too tight L screw. If there is excessive noise when the chain is on the largest cog, again, the L screw is too tight. If it makes an acceptable shift with no excessive noise, the L screw is not too tight. Shift the derailleur one click outward and tighten the L screw one turn clockwise and check the shift again. Repeat this process until there are symptoms of a too tight L screw. Once the too tight L screw is causing symptoms, turn the L screw out one quarter turn until and check the shift to the largest cog until the symptoms of excessive noise and slow shifting go away. The L-limit is now set.
My issue is that it's not behaving the same when I'm on or off the bike. At the setting I'm currently at, it shifts fine to the largest cog when on the bike, but poorly when off it (although I don't have a bike stand so I need to shift first with my right hand, lift the bike with my left then pedal with the right to make the shift).
Do I leave it that way?
Is the poor shifting when off bike caused by the shift-lift-pedal?
I know that with a too loose L-screw you run the risk of throwing the chain into the spokes, but is there a risk (besides poor shifting) with having it too tight?
Similar to the H screw setting, make the L screw too tight and back it out slightly until it is just right. This will provide the most protection from the derailleur shifting the chain beyond the largest cog and into the spokes. Shift the chain to the next to largest chainring in front. Shift to the second largest cog in the rear. Now, try shifting to the largest cog in order to determine where the L-limit screw is currently set. If the chain does not make the shift, than the L screw is already too tight, and that’s where we want it for now. If the chain shifts slowly to the largest cog, that is also a symptom of a too tight L screw. If there is excessive noise when the chain is on the largest cog, again, the L screw is too tight. If it makes an acceptable shift with no excessive noise, the L screw is not too tight. Shift the derailleur one click outward and tighten the L screw one turn clockwise and check the shift again. Repeat this process until there are symptoms of a too tight L screw. Once the too tight L screw is causing symptoms, turn the L screw out one quarter turn until and check the shift to the largest cog until the symptoms of excessive noise and slow shifting go away. The L-limit is now set.
My issue is that it's not behaving the same when I'm on or off the bike. At the setting I'm currently at, it shifts fine to the largest cog when on the bike, but poorly when off it (although I don't have a bike stand so I need to shift first with my right hand, lift the bike with my left then pedal with the right to make the shift).
Do I leave it that way?
Is the poor shifting when off bike caused by the shift-lift-pedal?
I know that with a too loose L-screw you run the risk of throwing the chain into the spokes, but is there a risk (besides poor shifting) with having it too tight?
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If the L-screw is too tight, you'll feel it at the lever when you shift into first. And when you shift off first, the lever will have a hard time unless it's Campy Ultrashift.
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The easy way to check the L screw is once its in the big cog, push on the parallelogram body and see if there is room for it to move towards the spokes. The top pulley should be lined up with the big cog when viewed from the back and not have any additional play to the left