1984 Trek 720
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1984 Trek 720
What's the value of this Trek 720.
The top tube is rusted.
Should it worth a repaint or not?
The top tube is rusted.
Should it worth a repaint or not?
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1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
#2
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Even having just the top tube repainted will put you upside down, value wise, on this. Not much original left on it either. Hope it's REAL cheap. Unless you plan on keeping it for yourself, the price would have to almost free to validate spending the money on a partial repaint.
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My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '85 Trek 500, '85 Trek 770,'81 Merckx, '85 Centurion Cinelli, '85 Raleigh Portage, '92 RB-2, '09 Bianchi
My bikes: '81 Trek 957, '83 Trek 720, '85 Trek 500, '85 Trek 770,
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I once bought a Trek 760 with rust around the cable guides. It was pretty cheap, but wire brushing and scraping the rust revealed that it was rusted all the way through the top tube in several places. Trying to save whatever I could, I broke the fork attempting to remove the stuck the Cinelli stem. I did save the dropout adjuster screws, though. And a few other pieces.
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Ugh. What a hot mess. Check for fork front-end collision damage, too.
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+1 - At minimum, rear mech, crank, shifters, brake levers and obviously handlebar have been swapped. Those stem shifters are something from a gas-pipe bike. Iconic original blue Blackburn rear rack is long gone. As suggested, this could be a good project, but only if it could be had for a "rescue" price.
Nickel says this bike was on a trainer, and the top tube rust is from sweat.
Nickel says this bike was on a trainer, and the top tube rust is from sweat.
#7
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The 720 is a rare bird even in so-so condition.
The brakes appear to be original - can be cleaned/polished - put some new Kool Stops on - very nice. Those particular canti brakes have several adjustment features that make it easier to get them to function properly. The crank also appears original. It's a nice triple that is set up for half-step. If you're not into half-step you can replace the middle ring with a 38 or 39 tooth TA for about $50 - clean/polish and you're good if the teeth on the other rings are ok. The FD and RD may also be original and suitable for re-use.
If it were mine I would replace the shifters, bars, seat, all cables, all bearings (except possibly the headset bearing) and wheels with something more suitable - would consider converting to 9 or 10 speed rear.
I share the concern of others about the top tube - that is very rusty - but if sound this bike is absolutely worth a re-paint.
The fork might be fine - photos can be misleading - but that is something to check closely - and look for any subtle wrinkles in the top tube and down tube near the front lugs - might indicate a collision. Also, check to see if the seat post is stuck - that can be a real problem.
If you can pick it up for low $$ you might be able to resell it on this site for the same or maybe a bit more than purchase price. This bike is worth saving even if you are not the one who does the rehab. Get the serial # for full verification. It does look like a 1984 720 in the 22.5" size.
https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/...ek3Touring.pdf
Last edited by jlaw; 05-12-20 at 12:28 PM.
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oh man! it does look pretty beat up but it is also a 36 year old bike and seems to still have original parts. That said, makes me feel a to better about the lucky find i had when i came across my '83 trek
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I checked the s.n. before I went to buy it.
The seat post is not stuck.
No damages as accident.
Brakes are original, crank is original, but scratched.
Deore DX derailleurs
The seat post is not stuck.
No damages as accident.
Brakes are original, crank is original, but scratched.
Deore DX derailleurs
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1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
1992 Torelli Nitro Express; 1972 Claud Butler.
#10
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+1 - At minimum, rear mech, crank, shifters, brake levers and obviously handlebar have been swapped. Those stem shifters are something from a gas-pipe bike. Iconic original blue Blackburn rear rack is long gone. As suggested, this could be a good project, but only if it could be had for a "rescue" price.
Nickel says this bike was on a trainer, and the top tube rust is from sweat.
Nickel says this bike was on a trainer, and the top tube rust is from sweat.
This bike had a hard life in Cleveland.......
Shame, this is a desirable Trek. Just not as much as it once was. Especially this one.
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What's not "suitable" about what appear to be the original wheels? Granted, Maillard hubs aren't exactly box-office popular, and the Helicomatic certainly gets its share of criticism. But they'll be fine as long as they last, and those Matrix anodized rims are a favored Trek hallmark.
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What's not "suitable" about what appear to be the original wheels? Granted, Maillard hubs aren't exactly box-office popular, and the Helicomatic certainly gets its share of criticism. But they'll be fine as long as they last, and those Matrix anodized rims are a favored Trek hallmark.
However, I did rebuild a set of VGC 27" Titans from a 1984 620 - replaced the Helicomatic rear hub with a Maillard that had an identically-sized housing and 1/4" bearings - going to use these on a mostly-original rebuild of the 1985 620 I have, including the original 6 speed and buttery Huret DT shifters. This will be my first experiment with 27" wheels - maybe I'll change my mind. ?
I bought a set of silver H Plus Son Archetype 700c wheels for the 1984 620 - the silver should look pretty sharp with the other silver components.
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I have an '84 760 and considering selling it. Pretty good shape with only a little rust on the toe clips and brakes. Sun tour superb group. Original except for seat handle bars and wheels. I have the wheels but not on the bike now. 54cm
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If the price was right I would take that on as a keeper project. looks about my size.
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Not sure of reasonable price on 760
I am not even sure of a reasonable price for a decent shape mostly original '84 760 with new wheels.
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Cycslistsj You should start a new thread on your 760 (race geometry). Much different bike than a 720 (touring geometry).
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Thanks. Sorry about that. 1st time user and still figuring it out. Still trying toto figure out how to start a new posting and a new thread. Thanks for the heads up and sorry for the inconvenience.
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If I thought the frame was salvageable, and I wanted this bike as a rider, I'd pay $100. If the the rust is cosmetic and the frame and fork straight, putting a $150 into paint or powder coat , would get you a $250 frame for $250. If you put another $150 in appropriate components and consumables, you might have $400 into a bike worth $500. I have a 728 in the garage that is in better shape, with original components, Bruce Gordon Racks and panniers ect,ect, but its same economy, not being worth much, except I could just continue adding to the 20 years of nail polish touch up and ride it around. Your bike is raw project material, and realy needs paint, so unless you want a project....
You could abrade and neutralize the rust and rattle can the bike primer black and ride it like you stole it, but thats a lot of work for a halfway solution.
You could abrade and neutralize the rust and rattle can the bike primer black and ride it like you stole it, but thats a lot of work for a halfway solution.
Last edited by bark_eater; 06-16-20 at 05:33 AM.