Component questions
#1
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Component questions
So i am trying to fix up an old bike for my commuter. I have a bridgestone city limit. I have to re adjust the brakes because who I got the bike from didn't put them on right and cut the cable far too short. Now my question is, I also have an old Trek MTB that has really decent Vbrakes. And the city limit has cantilever. The distance from the bolt to the pads seems to be the same but I am wondering if I can put the v brakes on the bridgestone. As well as also bringing over the shifters. I have some pictures but I can gladly take more. I am going replace all cables and housing anyway so I will be stripping her down. I love the power behind the brakes personally and if this is a possibility in anyway I want to make it work!
#2
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As long as you keep the v-brake levers with the v-brakes, it isn't an issue. Short pull (cantilever) brake levers don't work on v-brakes and vice versa so don't mix them.
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#3
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I'd take the Exage cantilever brakes over the tektro v-brakes, but that's just me.
Cantilever brakes are referred to as a short pull, like road calipers, the v-brakes are long or linear pull. You shouldn't mix the levers intended for the brakes except for really odd situations - weak grip strength user, short pull levers on linear brakes is the only thing I can see making any sense, but you have to set the pads up extremely close to the rim to make it work. The cost is that it's hard to modulate braking.
Cantilever brakes are referred to as a short pull, like road calipers, the v-brakes are long or linear pull. You shouldn't mix the levers intended for the brakes except for really odd situations - weak grip strength user, short pull levers on linear brakes is the only thing I can see making any sense, but you have to set the pads up extremely close to the rim to make it work. The cost is that it's hard to modulate braking.
#4
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I'd take the Exage cantilever brakes over the tektro v-brakes, but that's just me.
Cantilever brakes are referred to as a short pull, like road calipers, the v-brakes are long or linear pull. You shouldn't mix the levers intended for the brakes except for really odd situations - weak grip strength user, short pull levers on linear brakes is the only thing I can see making any sense, but you have to set the pads up extremely close to the rim to make it work. The cost is that it's hard to modulate braking.
Cantilever brakes are referred to as a short pull, like road calipers, the v-brakes are long or linear pull. You shouldn't mix the levers intended for the brakes except for really odd situations - weak grip strength user, short pull levers on linear brakes is the only thing I can see making any sense, but you have to set the pads up extremely close to the rim to make it work. The cost is that it's hard to modulate braking.
#5
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The only other possible issue bringing the shifters over is the FD pull. Shimano indexed FD shifters are road and mountain specific. Given the Trek has V brakes it also likely has a Mt FD, I don't know what the BS has for a FD, so you may have to move the FD over too, or get a different one depending on what's on the BS. I'd at least try it and change the FD if that doesn't index correctly.
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I had V-Brakes put on my old cantilever bosses a couople of years ago...
https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...ke-update.html
BTW, this fall I converted the bike to drop bars. I used long-pull levers (as is recommended) and the brakes feel exactly the same, I mostly commute and I wanted interrupter/cross-levers on the upper bar as I have on my other two drop bar bikes. Since this is am old bike and keeping expenses down is a goal, I bought short-pull cross-levers. With the barrel adjuster all the way out, and a small brake-pad-to-rim gap the cross levers work well enough. I can lock the brakes if I want to (usually not) but it happens all the way at the "end of the line". And there is less modulation available with the short-pull levers. The main long-pull levers are unaffected and are still a joy to use.
I think it is the use of short-pull levers with V-brakes that have given them the "lack of modulation" reputation.
https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...ke-update.html
BTW, this fall I converted the bike to drop bars. I used long-pull levers (as is recommended) and the brakes feel exactly the same, I mostly commute and I wanted interrupter/cross-levers on the upper bar as I have on my other two drop bar bikes. Since this is am old bike and keeping expenses down is a goal, I bought short-pull cross-levers. With the barrel adjuster all the way out, and a small brake-pad-to-rim gap the cross levers work well enough. I can lock the brakes if I want to (usually not) but it happens all the way at the "end of the line". And there is less modulation available with the short-pull levers. The main long-pull levers are unaffected and are still a joy to use.
I think it is the use of short-pull levers with V-brakes that have given them the "lack of modulation" reputation.
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The issue that nobody has mentioned is the rear cable routing.
Linear pull (V) brakes require a section of cable housing adjacent to the brake arm. Many bikes with candy brakes lack a conveniently located rear cable stop. The cheapest and easiest solution is to run a full length cable housing all the way from the brake lever and zip it to the top tube.
Linear pull (V) brakes require a section of cable housing adjacent to the brake arm. Many bikes with candy brakes lack a conveniently located rear cable stop. The cheapest and easiest solution is to run a full length cable housing all the way from the brake lever and zip it to the top tube.
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#8
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The issue that nobody has mentioned is the rear cable routing.
Linear pull (V) brakes require a section of cable housing adjacent to the brake arm. Many bikes with candy brakes lack a conveniently located rear cable stop. The cheapest and easiest solution is to run a full length cable housing all the way from the brake lever and zip it to the top tube.
Linear pull (V) brakes require a section of cable housing adjacent to the brake arm. Many bikes with candy brakes lack a conveniently located rear cable stop. The cheapest and easiest solution is to run a full length cable housing all the way from the brake lever and zip it to the top tube.
DSCN2007 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
has a stop for the cantilever.
93980010 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
I'd just bypass it if I wanted to added linears.
My Cannondale doesn't have a stop so I use a hanging stop on the seatpost bolt
2015-01-11 12.20.06 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
Putting linear on that bike would be even easier.
My Flashback has a stop and has had linear brakes in the past. There was not issue with the cable routing. The issue was with the linears and fenders.
_IMG4947 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
_IMG4950 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
I often will upgrade brakes at the co-op and have never had an issue with the cable routing. It's not really a problems.
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#9
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The only other possible issue bringing the shifters over is the FD pull. Shimano indexed FD shifters are road and mountain specific. Given the Trek has V brakes it also likely has a Mt FD, I don't know what the BS has for a FD, so you may have to move the FD over too, or get a different one depending on what's on the BS. I'd at least try it and change the FD if that doesn't index correctly.
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FD = front derailleur
RD = Rear derailleur
RD = Rear derailleur
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I've done many of these kinds of conversions and never found there to be a problem with them. Bikes that have cable that runs from the handlebars to a hanger can simply be routed to the noodle on the linear brake. Bikes that have an interrupted cable arrangement can just run from the stop to the noodle. My Salsa
DSCN2007 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
has a stop for the cantilever.
93980010 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
I'd just bypass it if I wanted to added linears.
My Cannondale doesn't have a stop so I use a hanging stop on the seatpost bolt
2015-01-11 12.20.06 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
Putting linear on that bike would be even easier.
My Flashback has a stop and has had linear brakes in the past. There was not issue with the cable routing. The issue was with the linears and fenders.
_IMG4947 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
_IMG4950 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
I often will upgrade brakes at the co-op and have never had an issue with the cable routing. It's not really a problems.
DSCN2007 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
has a stop for the cantilever.
93980010 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
I'd just bypass it if I wanted to added linears.
My Cannondale doesn't have a stop so I use a hanging stop on the seatpost bolt
2015-01-11 12.20.06 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
Putting linear on that bike would be even easier.
My Flashback has a stop and has had linear brakes in the past. There was not issue with the cable routing. The issue was with the linears and fenders.
_IMG4947 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
_IMG4950 by Stuart Black, on Flickr
I often will upgrade brakes at the co-op and have never had an issue with the cable routing. It's not really a problems.
Could it be so you would have an excuse to show us pictures of your personal bikes all of which, by the way, have canty brakes? Nice bikes by the way.
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#12
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Uh, wasn't the question about converting a canty brake bike to linear pull? Why would you reject my personal experience out of hand?
Could it be so you would have an excuse to show us pictures of your personal bikes all of which, by the way, have canty brakes? Nice bikes by the way.
Could it be so you would have an excuse to show us pictures of your personal bikes all of which, by the way, have canty brakes? Nice bikes by the way.
#13
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Uh, wasn't the question about converting a canty brake bike to linear pull? Why would you reject my personal experience out of hand?
Could it be so you would have an excuse to show us pictures of your personal bikes all of which, by the way, have canty brakes? Nice bikes by the way.
Could it be so you would have an excuse to show us pictures of your personal bikes all of which, by the way, have canty brakes? Nice bikes by the way.
#14
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And thank you . I try.
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cyccommute
RG is right - there are brake cable routing arrangements that require additional steps to convert to V brakes. For instance, Kona steel hardtails had a built in 'noodle' cable guide for canti brakes instead of a cable stop at the aft end of the top tube, and this was not conducive to V brake conversions... I modified a few of these with acceptable results, but there are also clamp-on cable stops that could be used. There are other examples but I can't think of them.
Full length cable housing will also work, but the compression of a long run of housing is considerably more than between two cable stops welded to a metal tube and this will effect brake function.
cyccommute
RG is right - there are brake cable routing arrangements that require additional steps to convert to V brakes. For instance, Kona steel hardtails had a built in 'noodle' cable guide for canti brakes instead of a cable stop at the aft end of the top tube, and this was not conducive to V brake conversions... I modified a few of these with acceptable results, but there are also clamp-on cable stops that could be used. There are other examples but I can't think of them.
Full length cable housing will also work, but the compression of a long run of housing is considerably more than between two cable stops welded to a metal tube and this will effect brake function.
#16
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Don't do that! Unless the frame is bent, any bike can be brought back from the dead. It only costs money. Even if it is bent, make sure you take the parts off.
Since you plan on keeping the shifters and levers, there shouldn't be a problem and the switch will be mostly trivial with respect to the brakes and only slight more complicated for the deriailers.
What cantis would you buy to upgrade the ones I have now?? I also have a salsa casserole in need of some new cantilevers as well. The tension screw was screwed all the way into the brakes in front and back until the spring snapped. From the previous rider... I have them adjusted to work but as you well know that its only a matter of time
I would look for a brake that uses an external adjuster like the Paul's do. Avid Shortys have it and a few others. Look at the my 4th picture above and you can see a silver "nut" on the brake above the brake arm. This nut is what is used to adjust the brake tension and to balance the brakes. It's easier to use and less likely to fail than the screw type adjusters your brakes have.
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#17
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RG is right - there are brake cable routing arrangements that require additional steps to convert to V brakes. For instance, Kona steel hardtails had a built in 'noodle' cable guide for canti brakes instead of a cable stop at the aft end of the top tube, and this was not conducive to V brake conversions... I modified a few of these with acceptable results, but there are also clamp-on cable stops that could be used. There are other examples but I can't think of them.
Full length cable housing will also work, but the compression of a long run of housing is considerably more than between two cable stops welded to a metal tube and this will effect brake function.
Full length cable housing will also work, but the compression of a long run of housing is considerably more than between two cable stops welded to a metal tube and this will effect brake function.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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Liquidspacehead, post pictures of your cable routing on the Bridgestone. It shouldn't be a problem.