Lubricating rear brake cable
#1
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Lubricating rear brake cable
I'm trying to reduce the friction and stiffness when actuating the rear brakes but am not having much luck. My bike is a one-year-old CAAD12 with Ultegra R8000 caliper brakes. Cable routing is internal.
I placed a few drops of Finish Line chain lube in the rear cable housing and made sure it ran through pretty well. I also inserted lube where the cable terminates at the brake levers. It didn't really make a difference.
Are there any suggestions to improve the feeling of the brakes, or should I consider cable and housing replacement?
Thank you,
Robert
I placed a few drops of Finish Line chain lube in the rear cable housing and made sure it ran through pretty well. I also inserted lube where the cable terminates at the brake levers. It didn't really make a difference.
Are there any suggestions to improve the feeling of the brakes, or should I consider cable and housing replacement?
Thank you,
Robert
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I'm trying to reduce the friction and stiffness when actuating the rear brakes but am not having much luck. My bike is a one-year-old CAAD12 with Ultegra R8000 caliper brakes. Cable routing is internal.
I placed a few drops of Finish Line chain lube in the rear cable housing and made sure it ran through pretty well. I also inserted lube where the cable terminates at the brake levers. It didn't really make a difference.
Are there any suggestions to improve the feeling of the brakes, or should I consider cable and housing replacement?
Thank you,
Robert
I placed a few drops of Finish Line chain lube in the rear cable housing and made sure it ran through pretty well. I also inserted lube where the cable terminates at the brake levers. It didn't really make a difference.
Are there any suggestions to improve the feeling of the brakes, or should I consider cable and housing replacement?
Thank you,
Robert
#4
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Something is wrong if brake cables need replacing every year. The housing is plastic lined and stainless cables shouldn't rust. If someone put on cheap zinc plated steel cables, they might not last long.
Unclamp the cable at the brake and see if the brake lever moves easily. Also test the caliper by squeezing the arms to be sure they close easily.
Unclamp the cable at the brake and see if the brake lever moves easily. Also test the caliper by squeezing the arms to be sure they close easily.
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Something is wrong if brake cables need replacing every year. The housing is plastic lined and stainless cables shouldn't rust. If someone put on cheap zinc plated steel cables, they might not last long.
Unclamp the cable at the brake and see if the brake lever moves easily. Also test the caliper by squeezing the arms to be sure they close easily.
Unclamp the cable at the brake and see if the brake lever moves easily. Also test the caliper by squeezing the arms to be sure they close easily.
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These are the original housing that came on the bike, so I assume it's Shimano Ultegra cables and housings. If I replace, what brand is recommended?
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#10
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Campy cables and housing must last longer than most. When I was riding 5,000 miles a year I could go many years with a pair of brake cables.
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Environment has a lot to do with longevity of cables. If you ride in the rain and mud, cable life can be less. Also, what riders are willing to tolerate plays a big roll. I had a rear brake cable that was funky. I don’t do a lot of sensitive braking with the rear brakes, so it didn’t bother me that much. Problem went away after I got the cables replaced a few years later.
#13
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Check out the condition of your brake housing ferrules too, if metal, I've had to replace my rear cable ferrule and/or housing because of rust/corrosion in this area. Could be b/c I sweat like a pig in the summer ? road salt? I dunno. In any case, I regularly inspect this area, and occasionally I'll put a shot of Boeshield T-9 anti-corrosion on ferrule area, seems to help. Just throwing this out there for troubleshooting, if it's a recurring issue.
Sometimes the cable strands can get unwound or messy at the pinch bolt too, or maybe the caliper pivots need a shot of lube both those things can also cause some weirdness or rough feeling.
Sometimes the cable strands can get unwound or messy at the pinch bolt too, or maybe the caliper pivots need a shot of lube both those things can also cause some weirdness or rough feeling.
Last edited by MagicHour; 11-25-19 at 03:25 PM.
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How difficult is it to replace the brake cables and housings? My main concern is the internal cable routing through the top tube.
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Not too difficult. Just start at the enter point by the headtube with the housing, and push it threw. You should see it when it stops at the exit point at the seat tube, or it may just come right out. Either way, if it hangs up at the exit point, just fiddle with it until it pokes out. I have used a short piece of clothes hanger wire to help poke it threw. It just takes a bit of patience but it will work.
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I'm trying to reduce the friction and stiffness when actuating the rear brakes but am not having much luck. My bike is a one-year-old CAAD12 with Ultegra R8000 caliper brakes. Cable routing is internal.
I placed a few drops of Finish Line chain lube in the rear cable housing and made sure it ran through pretty well. I also inserted lube where the cable terminates at the brake levers. It didn't really make a difference.
Are there any suggestions to improve the feeling of the brakes, or should I consider cable and housing replacement?
Thank you,
Robert
I placed a few drops of Finish Line chain lube in the rear cable housing and made sure it ran through pretty well. I also inserted lube where the cable terminates at the brake levers. It didn't really make a difference.
Are there any suggestions to improve the feeling of the brakes, or should I consider cable and housing replacement?
Thank you,
Robert
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LBS said that housings should be replaced annually. Bike is beyond one year, and I think housings are a wear item anyway.
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Wear is not covered by warranty indeed, but premature wear is another thing.
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Disconnect the cable and actuate by hand. If the caliper feels free then it's the cable. Grab the end and put a tiny bit of pull on it then pull on the brake lever. Tons of resistance? Time to swap the cable and housing.
Yes it's normal. Yes it is a wear component. Put high quality cables and housings on. The Shimano OEM ones are nice if you install them correctly and have no problem swapping them out then the internal routing your frame has causes the coating ont he cable to jam up in the housing. OR you can just get high quality stainless polished inners and Teflon lined housing from Jagwire. If you route it correctly then you shouldn't have any more problems. if you mess it up you will end up with just as much drag but new housing. Yay.
It's not hard but if you aren't comfortable with working on your bike then be willing to make mistakes and pay for the education. If you don't like paying for the education then take it to the shop and pay the people who know what they are doing.
Yes it's normal. Yes it is a wear component. Put high quality cables and housings on. The Shimano OEM ones are nice if you install them correctly and have no problem swapping them out then the internal routing your frame has causes the coating ont he cable to jam up in the housing. OR you can just get high quality stainless polished inners and Teflon lined housing from Jagwire. If you route it correctly then you shouldn't have any more problems. if you mess it up you will end up with just as much drag but new housing. Yay.
It's not hard but if you aren't comfortable with working on your bike then be willing to make mistakes and pay for the education. If you don't like paying for the education then take it to the shop and pay the people who know what they are doing.
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That's exactly what I experienced when I disconnected the cable -- almost no resistance until I put tension on the cable. I hear good things about Jagwire -- either Pro or Elite. Don't mind working on my bike, though I'm still somewhat of a novice doing so.