Classic steel frame bike for commuting + light touring
#1
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Classic steel frame bike for commuting + light touring
Hi!
I am doing research on a classic steel frame bike for commuting + light touring. Last summer I built a custom single speed bike with Wabi which was fun!
I like classic steel bikes, and it feels like there are so many options like going either vintage or working with an independent frame builder. I don’t know what will be the best way to approach this.
My budget is $2,500 - $3,000 for the entire bike. I am very picky about certain things, like:
Thanks in advance for all the help!
D
I am doing research on a classic steel frame bike for commuting + light touring. Last summer I built a custom single speed bike with Wabi which was fun!
I like classic steel bikes, and it feels like there are so many options like going either vintage or working with an independent frame builder. I don’t know what will be the best way to approach this.
My budget is $2,500 - $3,000 for the entire bike. I am very picky about certain things, like:
- The bike should be as light as possible
- I will use mostly for commuting [3.5 mile one way], so should have ways to attach rear rack
- It should be able to do moderate hills well
- Top tube should be parallel to the ground
- Decals/branding should be minimal and/or tastefully done
Thanks in advance for all the help!
D
Last edited by dhisharp; 10-28-18 at 05:33 PM.
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If you have that much to spend, go for a new custom bike and get exactly what you want.
By the way a bike that does moderate hills "well" has a lot to do with the rider (and the gearing) but very little to do with the bike assuming it is a decent quality bike.
If you want a vintage bike (and there will be decals which you may or may not find tasteful), then any good 4130/reynolds 531 frame will do. I'd look for a bike that takes long reach brakes as that should give you clearance for 28/32 c tire and fenders (they'll add weight but you may like them for the rain in the Pacific NW) and eyelets (in case you want to attach a rack one day).
You won't have to spend $2500 for a vintage commuter.
By the way a bike that does moderate hills "well" has a lot to do with the rider (and the gearing) but very little to do with the bike assuming it is a decent quality bike.
If you want a vintage bike (and there will be decals which you may or may not find tasteful), then any good 4130/reynolds 531 frame will do. I'd look for a bike that takes long reach brakes as that should give you clearance for 28/32 c tire and fenders (they'll add weight but you may like them for the rain in the Pacific NW) and eyelets (in case you want to attach a rack one day).
You won't have to spend $2500 for a vintage commuter.
Last edited by bikemig; 10-28-18 at 02:31 PM.
#3
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Corey Thompson is in Olympia. Great guy, great frame.
https://thompsoncustombicycles.com/
Another excellent choice would be a Jeff Lyon L'avecaise, he's in Southern Oregon.
https://www.lyonsport.com/frames-0
https://thompsoncustombicycles.com/
Another excellent choice would be a Jeff Lyon L'avecaise, he's in Southern Oregon.
https://www.lyonsport.com/frames-0
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Last edited by gugie; 10-28-18 at 02:45 PM.
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With that kind of budget I could certainly build something easily.
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bik...733411336.html
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod138440
H Plus Son Archetype Wheelset Shimano Ultegra 6800 hubs 32h [74762] - $275.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/bik...733411336.html
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod138440
H Plus Son Archetype Wheelset Shimano Ultegra 6800 hubs 32h [74762] - $275.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
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Hi!
I am doing research on a classic steel frame bike for commuting + light touring. Last summer I built a custom single speed bike with Wabi which was fun!
I like classic steel bikes, and it feels like there are so many options like going either vintage or working with an independent frame builder. I don’t know what will be the best way to approach this.
My budget is $2,500 - $3,000. I am very picky about certain things, like:
Thanks in advance for all the help!
D
I am doing research on a classic steel frame bike for commuting + light touring. Last summer I built a custom single speed bike with Wabi which was fun!
I like classic steel bikes, and it feels like there are so many options like going either vintage or working with an independent frame builder. I don’t know what will be the best way to approach this.
My budget is $2,500 - $3,000. I am very picky about certain things, like:
- The bike should be as light as possible
- I will use mostly for commuting [3.5 mile one way], so should have ways to attach rear rack
- It should be able to do moderate hills well
- Top tube should be parallel to the ground
- Decals/branding should be minimal and/or tastefully done
Thanks in advance for all the help!
D
#6
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Sounds like you might appreciate a custom Waterford to your spec.
https://waterfordbikes.com/resources...rBookletV5.pdf
https://waterfordbikes.com/w/culture...e-early-years/
https://waterfordbikes.com/w/culture...t/classic-era/
https://waterfordbikes.com/w/culture...ord-1980-1994/
https://waterfordbikes.com/resources...rBookletV5.pdf
https://waterfordbikes.com/w/culture...e-early-years/
https://waterfordbikes.com/w/culture...t/classic-era/
https://waterfordbikes.com/w/culture...ord-1980-1994/
#7
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You could order a bob Jackson frameset. Off the peg in your size and color. The audax ought to do what you want. Frameset at your door for under 900.00
Last edited by 52telecaster; 10-28-18 at 03:31 PM.
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With that budget, you can find a very nice Schwinn Paramount P-15. Ride it around a bit then hang up the wheels and get some Phil Wood hubs with some shiny rims built up, along with a Phil Wood bottom bracket and a Chris King head set for the win.
#10
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#11
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As has been said with that budget you can probably go custom. I recently built up a vintage touring bike for about $800 including the cost of the bike, and I probably could have spent less but I got just what I wanted, for comparison I figure for that amount I could have only afforded a new Velo Orange Campeur touring frame and a rear wheel. For me, like in real estate, there are 3 rules for bikes; Fit, Fit and Fit. so make sure you spend time figuring out what fits before dropping a pile of cash .
Here is the 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT I just built up. Good luck OP with you project and have fun with it. Feel free to message me if you would like a cost break down. I did do all the work myself so if you have a shop do it that is a whole different set of costs.
PS I doubt you could go wrong with one of the Waterford customs mentioned above,
Here is the 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT I just built up. Good luck OP with you project and have fun with it. Feel free to message me if you would like a cost break down. I did do all the work myself so if you have a shop do it that is a whole different set of costs.
PS I doubt you could go wrong with one of the Waterford customs mentioned above,
Last edited by ryansu; 10-28-18 at 06:28 PM.
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Honestly, a $100 Huffy would be fine for a 3.5 mile commute.
#13
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Just to add to the list of custom builders, Bill and Shawn Stevenson are also in Olympia, and Rodriguez and Erickson (R&E) in Seattle make excellent bikes.
But I would also suggest looking at the huge range of lovely old steel bikes you can find on Craigslist from Oly through Seattle. You don’t even need to worry about the frame tubing if your goal is a great ride; IMO the geometry of the bike and the wheels can make all the difference. This, for example, is a bottom of the line 1974 (or so) Peugeot that has an exceptional ride. With all the changes I made to it, and the parts, I probably spent $600. This is just an example and I confess I am a bit of a nut about old French bikes, but there are many other great options out there to serve as a base for a commuter.
But I would also suggest looking at the huge range of lovely old steel bikes you can find on Craigslist from Oly through Seattle. You don’t even need to worry about the frame tubing if your goal is a great ride; IMO the geometry of the bike and the wheels can make all the difference. This, for example, is a bottom of the line 1974 (or so) Peugeot that has an exceptional ride. With all the changes I made to it, and the parts, I probably spent $600. This is just an example and I confess I am a bit of a nut about old French bikes, but there are many other great options out there to serve as a base for a commuter.
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#14
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Agree with previous....
You could buy a nice vintage steel frame or complete bike (531 steel or equivalent), build/buy some very nice wheels, and upgrade any/all of the other components for $1000 to $1500 - and ride those 3.5 miles in style!
You could buy a nice vintage steel frame or complete bike (531 steel or equivalent), build/buy some very nice wheels, and upgrade any/all of the other components for $1000 to $1500 - and ride those 3.5 miles in style!
#15
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Classic 3 speed with SA AW. 46X21 gearing. That's what i use most for that purpose. It can also do hills in the alps.
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Folks, although the OP mentioned using the bike for commuting, light touring was also mentioned. I guess we should ask the question what light touring means.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#17
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That budget isn't enough for a complete bike with a custom frame made by the one of the many fine craftsman listed. $2500-3000 is more like frame and fork only.
You could go kind of in between production bikes and full custom one off builders. Think about small production shops. Offhand, an off the peg(rack) Bob Jackson world tour sounds like about the best bet in a new bike. Buy your own components and wheels. It could also get you into a mid level Rivendell. Rodriguez full bikes are in about that range. Those two have sloping top tubes though.
Vintage is probably the most cost effective. It's another way to go. Any top end 531 or equivalent bike that fits you could be your starting point. You'd have lots left over for component upgrades, fancy Phil BB's, etc. Old bikes are more stealth, which makes them good for commuters. I like the Paramount idea, but the possibilities are endless. I used to commute on a PX10.
Lastly, light weight tends to have more to do with the components than the frame, though of course every little bit helps. Most top shelf steel DB frames weigh in the same ballpark.
You could go kind of in between production bikes and full custom one off builders. Think about small production shops. Offhand, an off the peg(rack) Bob Jackson world tour sounds like about the best bet in a new bike. Buy your own components and wheels. It could also get you into a mid level Rivendell. Rodriguez full bikes are in about that range. Those two have sloping top tubes though.
Vintage is probably the most cost effective. It's another way to go. Any top end 531 or equivalent bike that fits you could be your starting point. You'd have lots left over for component upgrades, fancy Phil BB's, etc. Old bikes are more stealth, which makes them good for commuters. I like the Paramount idea, but the possibilities are endless. I used to commute on a PX10.
Lastly, light weight tends to have more to do with the components than the frame, though of course every little bit helps. Most top shelf steel DB frames weigh in the same ballpark.
#18
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Panasonic PT-3500s (also Sport Touring, Pro Touring 5000, and PT-4500 models) are perfect for this. Here's mine. I think I spent about $500 to refurbish and convert it to 700C wheels and 9-speed indexed shifting. I could (and might yet) add a front rack and fenders.
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1959 Bottecchia Milano-Sanremo(frame), 1966 Bottecchia Professional (frame), 1971 Bottecchia Professional (frame),
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#20
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Hi Guys!
Thank you so much for the responses so far!
Some answers and clarifications:
Thank you again!
D
Thank you so much for the responses so far!
Some answers and clarifications:
- $2500 to $3000 is my total budget, so some of the custom frame-builders are out of my range. My frustration is that I can’t find something above SOMA and below a complete custom frame
- Light touring – what I mean is that we have done casual riding around the area for like half a day [+/- 30 mile total] on not a very steel terrain, and we enjoyed it. I would like to tour more, but want to start slowly. I can see myself riding from Seattle/Tacoma to Portland over a weekend, and even explore other trips where we can take our bikes. And being able to use this bike for commuting adds more value to investing so much money in the bike.
- I’d love to go vintage, but right now I feel like it will be more work/research and risk will be a tad higher
- So far, custom frames from Bob Jackson, Mercian, Waterford, Gunner seems to be the most promising. What is the general feeling about Bob Jackson/Mercian? I hear they are easy to work with and Mercian seems to offer more steel options. Anyone in the states offers anything similar and is equally reputable?
Thank you again!
D
#21
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Mercian bicycles, are still in production, just adopted threadless steerers..
https://www.merciancycles.co.uk/prod...tegory/frames/
https://www.merciancycles.co.uk/prod...tegory/frames/
#22
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As you're in the Tacoma/Seattle area, definitely take some time to check out the offerings by R&E Cycles. They've got a handful of bikes that might suit you nicely, under $3000 for a complete bike. (The Adventure, UTB, Phinney Ridge, and Ranier.) They have a large number of different "stock" sizes, and they offer custom fitting/sizing. The standard steel for each of these bikes is Reynolds 725.
As many might suggest, the design of the frame and matching it to your riding is probably more important to feel and comfort than the actual type of steel used. IMO, the particular Co-Motion Americano I rode for a couple miles seemed a bit stiff, but then it wasn't my exact size and wasn't custom-fit to me; can't recall if it had custom-spec'ed tubes on that one model I rode.
The beauty of a custom maker like Rodriguez is that you can do a custom fitment and have about as good a chance as possible at getting the best choice of tubing/sizing for you. And they're in your neck of the woods. Worth consideration, at least.
FYI, on Rodriguez bikes. Just this year, I've seen three or four pre-owned bikes get listed for sale on CraigsList, for sub-$1000 or so. And Rodriguez does have a pre-owned/floor-model section of their website where they offer great deals on some of their stock. Can be a good way to get a serious discount on a lightly-used or near-new bike.
#23
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Mercian cost a bit more than Bob Jackson. Fit and finish is a bit more consistent (merely opinion), and there are more custom options. You should know that Mercian have a long waiting list. It was 10 months when I ordered mine 3 years ago. I do love mine, and I'd get another one if I could justify it. The Bob Jacksons are hard to beat for bang for buck, and you can get one right away.
For your use, IMO 631 is more than good enough. It's the modern 531. I'd suggest going with oversized tubes, unless you strongly prefer the more svelte look of traditional tube sizes. Std BJ World Tour is 631 OS. Another minor thing: 631/531 is slightly more rust resistant than most steel, which might be helpful in WA.
For your use, IMO 631 is more than good enough. It's the modern 531. I'd suggest going with oversized tubes, unless you strongly prefer the more svelte look of traditional tube sizes. Std BJ World Tour is 631 OS. Another minor thing: 631/531 is slightly more rust resistant than most steel, which might be helpful in WA.
#24
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For 3.5 miles, why bother with anything more than a craigslist cheapo. A rack, some fenders, maybe replace the tires & you're in business.
Seriously it's not like cycling is some kilo-buck elitist kick in the pants here. (It is, but not in touring/commuting circles, anyway.)
For touring, it's not like a hundred grams here or there is going to mean anything. Literally. Watt for watt, my 70 pound...what is that? Like 32 or 33 kilos commuter is only 1 mph slower than my Cervelo R5.
My advice: Don't commute on anything worth anything.
Seriously it's not like cycling is some kilo-buck elitist kick in the pants here. (It is, but not in touring/commuting circles, anyway.)
For touring, it's not like a hundred grams here or there is going to mean anything. Literally. Watt for watt, my 70 pound...what is that? Like 32 or 33 kilos commuter is only 1 mph slower than my Cervelo R5.
My advice: Don't commute on anything worth anything.
#25
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1- because the OP wants this for light touring too.
2- because the OP wants what they want. It may not be what you would do, but its a hobby and there is no right or wrong. Your opinion was already mentioned earlier in the thread- no need to beat the horse dead.
2- because the OP wants what they want. It may not be what you would do, but its a hobby and there is no right or wrong. Your opinion was already mentioned earlier in the thread- no need to beat the horse dead.