Why do people want 1x???
#51
Banned
Cyclocross racing has opted for a single front ring as an option for decades..
Campagnolo has made pairs of guard rings in 4 diameters .. to use chainrings from 42 - 52t.
Campagnolo has made pairs of guard rings in 4 diameters .. to use chainrings from 42 - 52t.
#52
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1x on a cyclocross bike is great...so much better than 2x, IMHO. It all has to do with dropping chains and simplicity when in a race or training for a race for me. 1x with a chain keeper up front pretty much ensures the chain won't come off when shouldering the bike, placing the bike back on the ground for a run, riding through muddy pitches while shifting. It's just way easier.
I would not like it for road. I never once had a problem with my Ultegra or etap front shifting on the road.
I would not like it for road. I never once had a problem with my Ultegra or etap front shifting on the road.
#53
Jet Jockey
I have an Ultegra triple crankset on one bike. The performance is...revelatory. It changed my mind forever about how well a triple can work. Flawless, smooth, amazing shifting, every time.
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Frame flex combined with BB crankset flex can make a huge difference in shifting also.
#55
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In my experience, if anything, the typical smaller jumps between chainrings on triples makes them shift better than doubles. Even a perfectly-smooth 16T upshift takes a moment to resolve as the chain lifts into place. Jumps of 12T and less can feel very snappy by comparison.
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the throw distance also plays a part in shifting.
red/force 105/ultegra never took much to shift.
Sora (9 speed) has a wicked long throw that is harder to get clean shifts with, I have found Apex 2x to be the same way the lever throw is difficult to get a good clean crisp Shift.
one of the many things i love about my di2. hit button and boom I get a Crisp, clean, fast, and perfect shift every time!
I am of the opinion that bad shifts are probably 99% user caused.
Not everyone could drive an manual transmission. I don't think everyone can drive manual shifting bicycles either.
red/force 105/ultegra never took much to shift.
Sora (9 speed) has a wicked long throw that is harder to get clean shifts with, I have found Apex 2x to be the same way the lever throw is difficult to get a good clean crisp Shift.
one of the many things i love about my di2. hit button and boom I get a Crisp, clean, fast, and perfect shift every time!
I am of the opinion that bad shifts are probably 99% user caused.
Not everyone could drive an manual transmission. I don't think everyone can drive manual shifting bicycles either.
#57
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Last years "Ride of Silence" was An ugly mess of chains, chainrings, and cogs groaning in protest of people shifting under load etc.... Oh well it keeps the bike shops in business. Add lack of chain maintenance by the same people, and you can guarantee they don't do any cable maintenance.
Sticky cables messing with cable tension. makes for bad shifting.
Someone was bad mouthing the brand of their car the other day because it quit running. Close to 100,000 miles and they never did an oil change. Uh yeah totally the brands fault! lol
Sticky cables messing with cable tension. makes for bad shifting.
Someone was bad mouthing the brand of their car the other day because it quit running. Close to 100,000 miles and they never did an oil change. Uh yeah totally the brands fault! lol
#59
Jet Jockey
In my experience, if anything, the typical smaller jumps between chainrings on triples makes them shift better than doubles. Even a perfectly-smooth 16T upshift takes a moment to resolve as the chain lifts into place. Jumps of 12T and less can feel very snappy by comparison.
#60
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Campagnolo would have included a stern warning saying that only trained and certified riders should attempt to use their equipment.
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#62
Jet Jockey
SRAM front shifting: *scrape scrape rattle rattle clunk* - shift complete.
Shimano front shifting: *ssssnikt* - shift complete.
Shimano front shifting: *ssssnikt* - shift complete.
#63
Full Member
What about all the different cranksets with varying teeth difference and different shifting "profiles" on the chainring?
1X front shifting is still the best.
(Don't take me seriously)
#64
Banned
I have a gearbox crank-set.. chain ring and crank-arms can turn at different rates or the same rate.
#66
Banned
the issue does not come up with friction shifted fronts if well timed and not forced,
but that even though slight, requires thinking and planning..
engineers took the thinking part away, and increased the market size..
but that even though slight, requires thinking and planning..
engineers took the thinking part away, and increased the market size..
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In my experience, if anything, the typical smaller jumps between chainrings on triples makes them shift better than doubles. Even a perfectly-smooth 16T upshift takes a moment to resolve as the chain lifts into place. Jumps of 12T and less can feel very snappy by comparison.
#69
Senior Member
What do you mean by "badly"? As long as it's adjusted right, and the crankset is well-designed, it should shift smoothly and consistently. Shifts just won't complete as rapidly as they do with tighter-spaced chainrings.
#71
Senior Member
I have 2 1x bikes (gravel and MTB) and 2 2x bikes (road and fat). The only differences I've seen between 1x and 2x:
1. 1x is simpler, obviously.
2. 2x has small jumps between gears.
Chain retention, gear range and ability to dump a bunch of gear inches quickly are all about the same.
On gravel and MTB, I don't care about super fine gradations of gearing, so 1x works fine. I can't see myself ever using a 2x on an MTB as it's unnecessary. On the road, I definitely prefer a 2x, albeit I rarely use the small ring here in the flat Midwest. I like the 2x on the fattie because for slow snow crawling I like the 22 ring while for summer trails I like the 32.
1. 1x is simpler, obviously.
2. 2x has small jumps between gears.
Chain retention, gear range and ability to dump a bunch of gear inches quickly are all about the same.
On gravel and MTB, I don't care about super fine gradations of gearing, so 1x works fine. I can't see myself ever using a 2x on an MTB as it's unnecessary. On the road, I definitely prefer a 2x, albeit I rarely use the small ring here in the flat Midwest. I like the 2x on the fattie because for slow snow crawling I like the 22 ring while for summer trails I like the 32.
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How well does a 1X work on a bikepacking bike?
I am thinking about a new bike, but the one I want only comes in a 1X.
I am thinking about a new bike, but the one I want only comes in a 1X.
#73
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What is the gear range? Touring typically requires easier gearing since you climb woth more weight. Touring on dirt and gravel makes it that.much more difficult due to resistance.
#74
Senior Member
I'd love to have the simplicity of 1X and no dropped chains. But the reality is I am too picky about my cadence and that is true if I am on the road or on single track. 1X will need to go to like 14 speed before I would want to switch. My MTB is ancient and still has a triple and I use them all. My cross/gravel bike I am building now will be 2X and my road bike is 2X. And about dropped chains, for me I usually find that the low limit screw on the FD vibrated loose or something and if I drop a chain here or there, a quick tweak fixes that problem.
And I can't believe how well my new 9100 DA FD up shifts, wow.
And I can't believe how well my new 9100 DA FD up shifts, wow.
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Yeah, its a 42 tooth chainring with an 11-36 cassette. Probably not the best bike packing set up.