Olmo needs some love
07-23-18, 12:10 AM
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Olmo needs some love
Hi folks ,
Despite having a predilection for French machines I have let another Italian into cave .
Will get a repaint at some stage .
Will probably build it up and give it a thrash to see if I like it.
Anyway, anybody want to take a stab at what year ? model it might be ?
Also what the tubing would likely be ?
27mm seatpost
italian BB 70MM 36X24
English headset thread .
Campagnolo dropouts front and rear
Matching four digit numbers on frame and fork .
Small embossed columbus bird on steerer tube
Forks and rear stays pantographed "olmo"
thanks
07-23-18, 12:27 AM
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1980 Olmo Competition SR?
Like this one: https://www.steel-vintage.com/olmo-competition-sr-classic-road-bike-1980-detail
Have a look through this: https://www.peterbrueggeman.com/cr/ca...s/olmo-ssn.htm
Like this one: https://www.steel-vintage.com/olmo-competition-sr-classic-road-bike-1980-detail
Have a look through this: https://www.peterbrueggeman.com/cr/ca...s/olmo-ssn.htm
Last edited by P!N20; 07-23-18 at 12:37 AM.
07-23-18, 09:26 AM
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The Columbus steerer indicates a full SL frame, while the Portacetena dropout indicates no earlier than the 1978 model year. Normally, the lack of a front derailleur tab suggests no later than 1981 model year but Olmo does not appear to have incorporated this feature until the 1984 model year introduction of the Professionista. As previously suggested, it would appear to be an Olmo Competition, as this was their Columbus SL model during the period in question. If I had to make a guess on the year, my choice would be 1981, as using the the first digit of the serial number to indicate the year was a fairly common practice among Italian builders, when the serial number was purely numeric.
07-23-18, 10:24 AM
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Wouldn’t a a 27mm seatpost point to a SP or Alle frame?
I thought Lewis out of Texas imported Olmo.
I thought Lewis out of Texas imported Olmo.
07-23-18, 10:27 AM
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Seems very similar to my Olmo Competition (I'm guessing it's a '82 model). It's got pantographed Campy bits, with the Campy Mexico cranks. I've had it since 1997, so I guess you could say that I enjoy it. 
a few photos.....
okay, that's probably enough!
Steve in Peoria
a few photos.....
okay, that's probably enough!
Steve in Peoria
07-23-18, 02:08 PM
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07-24-18, 02:24 AM
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thanks to all for your thoughts on model and age .
I will double check the seat post diam.
Should be fun !
I will double check the seat post diam.
Should be fun !
07-24-18, 02:29 AM
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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d4ae387d26.jpg
I would say "subtle" or "understated" about that fine steed ! Very nice . Reminds me of my 84 Pug
07-24-18, 03:53 AM
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Nice frame set! Some would say that it has nice Patina and doesn't need painting at all. My Colnago is in worse paint condition and I won't touch it. It new only once.
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07-24-18, 06:14 AM
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The Columbus steerer was supplied only on SL/SP or higher grade tubesets. According to my 1984 literature, Olmo used SP on 60cm and larger frames. Your frame did not appear that large, which is why I stated it should be SL. SL frames typically used 27.2mm seat posts, while SP was typically used 27.0mm.
07-24-18, 07:51 AM
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Great find!
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
07-24-18, 11:34 PM
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That being said I am pretty positive the green is a repaint already
07-24-18, 11:36 PM
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07-25-18, 12:04 AM
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The Columbus steerer was supplied only on SL/SP or higher grade tubesets. According to my 1984 literature, Olmo used SP on 60cm and larger frames. Your frame did not appear that large, which is why I stated it should be SL. SL frames typically used 27.2mm seat posts, while SP was typically used 27.0mm.
Never have had a steed with an Italian bottom bracket .
I need one for this machine
I guess the length of BB axle depends somewhat on the crank set ?
Is there a "standard" range of axle length ?
In the past have just winged it and used eye-ometer and have been successful purely by blind luck .
Any advice on length etc would be greatly appreciated
07-25-18, 03:27 AM
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07-25-18, 05:01 AM
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Thanks for the reference @P!N20. Interesting that he did not include the difference in BB length and diameters.
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07-26-18, 12:08 AM
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Thanks for the reference @P!N20. Interesting that he did not include the difference in BB length and diameters.
07-26-18, 06:10 AM
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Remembering that a few mm here and there probably isn’t going to matter.
07-27-18, 08:25 PM
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The specs of the cranks. Thankfully there’s awesome sites like Velobase that contain such information. For instance, it tells me my Campy Chorus cranks require a 111mm BB: VeloBase.com - Component: Campagnolo FC-01CH, Chorus
Remembering that a few mm here and there probably isn’t going to matter.
Thanks
07-29-18, 02:19 AM
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The specs of the cranks. Thankfully there’s awesome sites like Velobase that contain such information. For instance, it tells me my Campy Chorus cranks require a 111mm BB: VeloBase.com - Component: Campagnolo FC-01CH, Chorus
Remembering that a few mm here and there probably isn’t going to matter.
According to Velo base the stronglight cranks I would like to use need a 120mm BB ?
aLSO to thicken the already thickened , I cant get the fixed cup to move. No way no how it will move .
On the plus side the race on the fixed cup looks good to use .
So I thought easy ! I will get an italian threaded campy BB and use the bits with existing fixed cup . But ........... It would appear 120mm is not a happening thing ?
All a bit confused now .
Any help with getting some clarity would be appreciated .
Last edited by 1simplexnut; 07-29-18 at 02:19 AM. Reason: spelling duh
07-29-18, 05:05 AM
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OK, first things first. The cup may well be fixed in with loc-tite; which would make sense given it’s Italian threading, as they have a habit of loosening. Your best bet is to clamp the flats of the cup into an engineer’s vice and use the whole frame as a lever arm. Make sure you’re turning the right way - clockwise to loosen.
There are 120mm Campy bottom brackets out there: https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Ca...from=R40&rt=nc
But you could go a Stronglight to match your cranks: https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Stronglight-Competition-Bottom-Bracket-ITA-36x24-119-5-mm-Rennrad-Tretlager/123132677689?hash=item1cab478e39%3Ag%3AU%7EUAAOSwF25a-aLy&LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=stronglight+bottom+bracket&_from=R40&rt=
Are they Stronglight 104 cranks?
Do do you know what make the rogue cup is?
There are 120mm Campy bottom brackets out there: https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Ca...from=R40&rt=nc
But you could go a Stronglight to match your cranks: https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Stronglight-Competition-Bottom-Bracket-ITA-36x24-119-5-mm-Rennrad-Tretlager/123132677689?hash=item1cab478e39%3Ag%3AU%7EUAAOSwF25a-aLy&LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=stronglight+bottom+bracket&_from=R40&rt=
Are they Stronglight 104 cranks?
Do do you know what make the rogue cup is?
Last edited by P!N20; 07-29-18 at 05:12 AM.
07-29-18, 11:54 PM
#24
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OK, first things first. The cup may well be fixed in with loc-tite; which would make sense given it’s Italian threading, as they have a habit of loosening. Your best bet is to clamp the flats of the cup into an engineer’s vice and use the whole frame as a lever arm. Make sure you’re turning the right way - clockwise to loosen.
There are 120mm Campy bottom brackets out there: https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Ca...from=R40&rt=nc
But you could go a Stronglight to match your cranks: https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Stronglight-Competition-Bottom-Bracket-ITA-36x24-119-5-mm-Rennrad-Tretlager/123132677689?hash=item1cab478e39%3Ag%3AU%7EUAAOSwF25a-aLy&LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=stronglight+bottom+bracket&_from=R40&rt=
Are they Stronglight 104 cranks?
Do do you know what make the rogue cup is?
There are 120mm Campy bottom brackets out there: https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Ca...from=R40&rt=nc
But you could go a Stronglight to match your cranks: https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Stronglight-Competition-Bottom-Bracket-ITA-36x24-119-5-mm-Rennrad-Tretlager/123132677689?hash=item1cab478e39%3Ag%3AU%7EUAAOSwF25a-aLy&LH_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=stronglight+bottom+bracket&_from=R40&rt=
Are they Stronglight 104 cranks?
Do do you know what make the rogue cup is?
Have tried to remove fixed cup using as much force as I was comfortable with .
Used a nut /bolt and spring washers .
Then had a big spanner on one end and a big bar on the other.
Would not move even with TWO 100KG blokes bouncing on it .
The cup looks to be campag NR ?
Will keep my eye on ebay etc for a likely candidate .
Do you think 120mm makes sense ? It seemed long compared to other beasties I have .
All good fun !
Thanks again for the input
Cheers
07-29-18, 11:55 PM
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ps yes 104 cranks