Vintage_Cyclist

Looking at this again, I have the following:

In all images, the center portions of the mounts appears to have been sanded down, hence the shininess compared to the more slender part the bolt goes into. By comparison, my 79 Pro Tour has the center portion painted.



If an attempt is made to bend the errant bolt portion, I'd try to clamp the center portion in some way, so that you're bending the bolt portion in opposition to that and the fork blade is left out of the equation.



Lastly, if this was stripped-down at the coop, I'd recommend returning the centerpull plates and springs, which are specific to these type of mounts (I was able to find them for my frame at Cycles Toussaint).

Robvolz 

OK, lots on interest in the this frame. I'll be back in on Tuesday and try exactly what is recommended here and report the results.

Thanks for your patience.
Robert

sbarner 

If it were mine, I would drill a hole in a bar of metal that just fits over the outer stud, thread a bolt in to control distortion, and bend the stud back. Nothing to lose and, since it is obviously malleable, I would be amazed if it did not bend back without cracking. The feature is too nice to lose, and I don't deal with the fear of liability that a pro framebuilder has.

Back in the mid-1980s, my price for replacing broken Campy dropouts rose to $50 when I realized that I was ending up with a significant pile of useless left dropouts. None of my jobs failed or was out of alignment, and I did the best I could to match the style of the original stay end treatment. That would be around $150 in today's money. Dropout price is higher these days, so I could see an increase, but $450 sounds high, and my turnaround was usually one to two weeks. Yellow Jersey may be the cheapest and fastest reliable frame repair, but I will always put in a plug for Franklin Frames, which has for decades been perhaps the closest in combination of excellent quality and extremely affordable frames and repair, combined with great paint, to the masters of Montreal, Marinoni.

Robvolz 

this was annoyingly easy, I can’t believe I had people telling me not to do this.

We remove the fork,


stuck it in the fork vice, used the park tool, straightening tool to hold it steady






Put in a bolt and hit the bolt a couple times with a hammer. while we were there, we use the fork, straightening cantilevered tool to bend the fork blades into perfect alignment.






straight!!
Ps: i’m throwing in a set of Wyman and Shimano center pull brakes for you to bolt in place.

ACHiPo 

Hi,
I’m too new to PM, but I’m interested. Can you PM me if you’re interested in shipping?
Thanks,
Evan

Spaghetti Legs 

Well done! I was reading through this thinking I’d just straighten it in a much less elegant fashion that that and barring that, looking into just cutting off the post and tapping some threads for a threaded boss.

ACHiPo 

Just got over 10 posts. PM sent.

Andy_K 

Not pictured? I ask because in the pictures here it looks skewed to one side.

Robvolz 

Sadly I needed two hands.

couldn’t take pics.

I was quick to remove it from sale once it was pointed out there was a flaw.

no way would I say something was done and not actually do it. This is not just my reputation, but the Co-ops.

Robvolz 

Sale pending

Robvolz 

Still available

might have a part or two to toss in

Robvolz 

operators are standing by.

Robvolz 

I threw a bunch of parts on it. The right stem, cranks and seatpost for sure. Plus the sunshine (who?) hubs/alloy rims.

others are the correct brands, maybe not exactly as original.

I did my best. Not charging extra.

$325 and it’s all yours.




These bars were new, never mounted or had bar tape on them. They were listed as what would have come on this bike. The packaging meanwhile was black n crumbly. Accuse me of not being 100% honest about this?? I’ll meet you in any back alley. Let’s go.

ACHiPo 

PM sent

Rooney 

Wish this were my size, or I knew someone looking for this size. These Pro-Tours are some of my favorite bikes ever.

Kilroy1988 

Good deal! Just because I brought up the Sakae Apex crankset in the thread where you asked about the original components, I wanted to note that I misrepresented the model number for the crankset. The version that came on the bike was nicer forged set of crank arms with the smaller 86mm BCD, shown below... It was apparently a brand-new offering in 1979/80 so would have looked pretty unique on the '79 Pro-Tour. I wrecked that bike but kept some of the components, and the crankset is now on my Mercian Campionissimo, also a 1979:

VeloBase.com - Component: Sakae/Ringyo (SR) SAX-5TG, APEX-5 Touring

abdon 

Every time I say how easy is to cold set a steel frame for wider hubs people that has never done it jump in to say how it will noodle the frame.

Heck I tried to get somebody to explain to me how loading my touring bike with 50 pounds for a two week trip was perfectly fine, but loading the same paneers with 50 pounds worth of stuff for the office snack bar, a 4 mile trip, was dangerous.

Vintage_Cyclist

That shipping cost from Canada is a killer. I think two sets cost me around $35, all-in, about 5 years ago.

Soma and Merry Sales also sell these for the same price, but out of stock currently.

Then there's also a chance you might get a reply from Dia Compe itself. Maybe. If you can figure out the point of contact. CENTER PULL CALIPER ASSEMBLY KITS | Diacompe

Robvolz 

sold!!!

beer time.