Psimet2001 

It absolutely wasn't common knowledge at the time she was having the issue. It was a few years ago and we had multiple discussion directly with SRAM.

Considering she's been a Cat 2 racer for the better part of the decade...she rides a lot faster than that. Your quote says, "About". That's a big "about". Like I said - quite literally - YMMV.

GlennR

My eTap was a "mini group" that I got February of 2016, it was the one pre-release set that some shops got. The Sram rep told me to remove the battery when transporting the bike, so it wasn't a secret. Maybe her LBS should of told her.

JohnJ80

why? I typically consistently ride every day and it works out to that giving me a little margin. I could check it but it would tell me that hat I already know. That way I don’t forget.

ETap battery information is not all that helpful. It’s basically “high, med, low.”

colnago62

If you have a newer Garmin or Wahoo, the unit will tell you when the battery is low. There is nothing to check. Even before I had that function, I just plugged the bike in at the beginning of every month. I still can’t see the value of carrying an extra battery.

Doge

I'm about 4 years from last time I got the information, but...
Sometimes pro teams will accept being paid to use SRAM.
And sometimes pro teams will pay to use Shimano.

I know of both cases. I do not know of pro teams that pay to use SRAM. I know several that buy Shimano (or did).
But as I said, I'm 4 years away from that, so they might now.

ls01

Red is only slightly "better" than Force, it is considerably lighter though, thats why the extra cost. The delay that you perceive is relative. Once you are used to the time it takes to initiate a shift, that becomes the rhythm for shifting the bike. If you want to be in x gear then you need to shift @ y.
That being said. If I were planning a new bike build, it would not be with Sram. Sram is doing some questionable things currently. I built an 11 speed Red e tap bike last year. I did it by upgrading my Red 10 speed bike with new derailluers, shifters, cassette and chain. This year Sram discontinued support for that groupset. Thats a crap move designed to force you to buy the new groupset.
I also built a new 12 speed e tap Force bike. That cost me a small fortune due to the proprietary shenanigans that Sram encorporated into the new design. Forcing me to replace components I hadn't counted on , like the total scam that Dub is. I built this bike with Force because the price of the Red groupset was more than I paid for the entire fore mentioned 11 speed bike, ( 2011 S works tarmac Alberto Contadore tribute frame purchased nib in '17, sram Red 11 speed, with carbon wheels. )
I have been a Sram fan since the intro of the exogram Red 10 speed groupset. I don't know what changed in the co. To turn them into bait and switch used car salesman. But I'm cured.
I am looking forward to Shimanos new groupset release And I hope they mop the sales room floor with Sram.

DaveSSS 

Bike computer readouts of battery level may be highly inaccurate - not something I'd trust. With SRAM AXS, I carry a spare battery, just to be safe. The batteries are small and only weigh 25 grams. I've never had one die on the road, but I have caught every red light warning with my bike in the work stand. I install my spare battery and then charge the dead battery which then becomes the spare. I have two bikes with AXS. I've had no problems since I made the switch in early August. I don't use sram cranks, due to their limited range. I've used Campy chorus 12 48/32 and shimano grx 46/30 11speed cranks, with the AXS chain.

noodle soup

+1

I don't know if this is still true, but it was when SRAM first released their road groups. SRAM Took over the peleton, but they quickly faded away once they stopped paying teams to use their crap.

The old Cervelo Test Team definitely paid for their Shimano components, because the riders refused to use SRAM.

GlennR

I "think" Peter Sagan won more than half his races on a Cannondale... which had Sram. So it just proves the bike and groupset don't matter as much ans the rider.

So it just comes down to personal preference.

BTW... I drive a Subaru, and Honda sux.

noodle soup

Imagine how many he could have won if he had better components.

ls01

Dave can you clarify for me. The 2 axs bikes are 11 speed or 12 speed?
From what I was told the 12 speed chain will not work with the 11 speed crankset. Well, actually I was told, "the 12 speed cassette tooth space is for the larger rollers in the new chain, which I need the chain rings for, which won't fit on the pre existing crank set, that I will have to use the Dub b.b. with. Cost me about an extra $600.00.

Psimet2001 

(we don't use enough emoticons around here anymore)

Yes there are a lot of teams that ...shall we say would "prefer" to run Shimano. Some of that is justified but a lot of it is just old habits. The front shifting has gotten better with SRAM but in many of the wrench's minds they still bring up Schleck. The fact that SRAM has been trying to kill the front derailleur isn't helping their case with these guys either.

Psimet2001 

Yeah....she's the LBS.

DaveSSS 

All axs groups are 12 speed, but still called etap. When force axs first came out, I already had Campy chorus 12 on both of my bikes, but I bought a force axs chain to measure it and try with my Campy drivetrains. The rollers are 0.006 inch larger, but the chain works fine and seemed to be more quiet than a Campy 12 chain. I first tried a 10-36 force axs cassette with the Campy 12 drivetrain and it worked great. I later switched to force axs shifters, FD and RD, but kept my Campy crank. That all worked great. I then wanted even lower gearing, so I tried the grx crank, first with it's +2.5mm chainline, then with the chainline corrected to normal with spacing washers and longer chain ring bolts. I've never had a chain drop with any of my setups.

About the only other useable crank for a 10-XX cassette is a 50/34 and that gives you a huge top gear like a 55/11. Even a 48/10 is like a 53/11. Most people will find a 46 big ring to be large enough.

GlennR

OK.. worded another way, he won more on Sram than on Shimano.

Happy now?

noodle soup

I'm sure the fact that his best years are behind him now (and his leadout sucks), has nothing to do with it

GlennR

Sounds like excuses to me.

Maybe its the Shimano groupset.

noodle soup

Sagan is done. He was never the fastest sprinter around, and most of his wins were due to tactics. The only sprints he'll win now are against GC contenders and climbers

JohnJ80

yes I know. “Low” is lower than I want to go.

Battery voltage measurements on Li-ion or Li-po batteries are notoriously inaccurate. The discharge curve on a Li based battery falls off a cliff in a very narrow range of voltage and embedded devices like this are generally the worst at finding that knee in the curve well. This is especially true where the battery is not embedded and/or does not have a fairly expensive fuel gauge chip that integrates the current both in and out of the battery during charge and discharge to get a more accurate understanding of the actual battery capacity relying on the terminal voltage. But that’s beyond the scope of a derailleur as a system usually.

So I’ve worked out how low I can go and still have some margin. To be frank, the ability of both Shimano and SRAM to accurately measure the battery voltage is somewhere between “crappy” and “bad.”

I’m always amazed when a number is presented on a display, people accept that as gospel truth when it is rarely the case.

Doge

I like 1X

noodle soup

1x is great...









for mountain bikes.

Doge

I have two rings on our adventure bikes. I had 3 rings on my mountain bike.

On bikes I bought I use 1X ...


For the tandem


For the 1992 <14# Ti road bike







For the fast race winning bike. <13# with those wheels, <12# with the low profiles.



For the gravel / cx bike.



For my older 1980 753 Team Raleigh (stupidly repainted in early 90s). One downtube shifter.



For the TT bike.

colnago62

The unit doesn’t give a number, both Garmin and Wahoo just say low battery. I have never not been able to finish a ride when the low battery light comes on. It does seem strange to me that the low battery warning is too low but you are ok with riding a battery dead and then popping in a spare. You do you. You really don’t have to justify your behavior to me.

JohnJ80

Exactly. You do you. I don’t care what you do. You asked so I explained as a courtesy.

Next time if you don’t want to know then don’t ask or comment.

colnago62

You mad Bro? Never used a question mark, just said your reasoning sounded odd. I mentioned I didn’t care to give an out.