1989Pre 

It's already residue-free and on the bike. I thought I did a pretty-thorough job of describing the situation I was facing, hence my surprise when it was recommended that I "soak the chain". I tried to take photos yesterday, but they proved uninformative, revealing only a black chain. I would be grasping-at-straws to attribute the hardened build-up to any particular chain lubes I have used, so I will resign myself to inspecting this Renold closely at the end of every season. Incidentally, I took a quick survey of a Sram PC850 that I took off the Technium, pre-respray, and although about the same age as the Renold, was shiny, un-bound and ready-to-go with just a wipe of WD40. I would be willing to venture that there is something metallurgically- different about these Renolds that causes a relatively-stronger bonding between the unpolished/unplated plates and the lubricant. I will admit that historically, I have been a little heavy on the oil for the chain. One thing that helped this gummy condition to escape my notice is that the chain is, when new, a very dark brown, almost black. So, I'm not buying the response that I am the only one in the world who has experienced this. Is anyone here currently (or even lately) using a N.O.S. Renold (or Brampton, or Perry, etc) 3/32" chain that they are putting miles on? The answer, and consequent comparisons, could be instructive

1989Pre 

That's disturbing. What is the history of this chain, and is that rust, or caked-on grease? It looks like just rust. There is no rust on my chain, so I do not see how your comment and photo are pertinent to my query.

smd4

I highly doubt that. In my experience with thousands of chains in every conceivable condition, when someone says they've been "a little heavy on the oil," it really means way too heavy. Sort of like the guy who's been pulled over by the cops and says he's only had one beer.

1989Pre 

Neither of your assertions is backed-up by any evidence. Tell me about your recent, personal experience with the Renolds.

repechage

I have a bike that was quipped, still is with a Renold chain. As I wrote earlier, the chain was coated with a lube that decades on was as close as I can recall to the cosmoline that overseas shipped parts from the UK were coated with. It was prior to the pandemic, I started with marine diesel and that started the job, then gasoline... outside protected up and not recommended. It does the job.
and to think we used that 55 years ago as kids with so little thought...

Regina chains also were packaged with a tenacious goo, we used Chevron 325 solvent then, long off the market.

Mr. 66

I don't know about what my old chain disturbs you. You asked about crud, well this is one more step of crud, caked on grease and rust. I guess you can't see the forest with all those tree blocking your view. Lol

Ill have a pictures in a few minutes

Mr. 66

Where the chain appears brighter is where I scraped with a blade.

smd4

Yes. Your chain is made of some mythical special steel that somehow turns a heavy coating of oil into something that needs to be chiseled off. Makes perfect sense.

merziac

First, sorry, I understood you perfectly.

I have never encountered any chain that required link by link scraping.

Brushes are easily sourced at auto parts stores, HD, most hardware stores, Harbor Freight and many others.

And yes, Scothbrite has scrubbed many a nasty chain after a good soak with the right cleaner, I often have great results.

This was mainly rusty but also had caked on, petrified goo as well.

I had no delusions about it still being sound for real use but wanted to salvage it for display at least being a drilled version from way back.

It actually works just fine and looks pretty good IMO.

Before



After

Bad Lag

OP lives in Maine, not California, so I am confused by the discussion of CA-approved solvents. Does Maine have similar limitations? If not, mineral spirits and non-acetone paint thinner can be had in the paint store.

I've found acetone to be less than stellar (ineffective) at removing the "crud".

The dreaded gasoline works really well at removing old, build up crud. Just be careful using it - gloves are 100% mandatory, use outdoors ONLY.

BBQ lighter fluid also works well at removing crud. WD-40 can be purchased in 1 gallon unpressurized containers, so that would also work.

I soak the coiled chain, laying it flat, in an oil drain pan containing some solvent. This will soften the crud.

Tip the pan at a small an angle so the solvent and loosened crud run to one side. I scrub every link with a tooth brush, one at a time. Every link gets scrubbed, top, bottom, both side plates. It is repetitive work but not difficult.

When finished, flush with clean solvent and hang the chain vertically in the sunlight to drip and dry.

Lube every single link, one at a time and articulate the chain to distribute the lube and also to find any tight/bound-up links.

Wipe with a clean rag to remove the excess lube.

This is a maintenance activity my bike is in need of right now.

1989Pre 

You know, I hadn't thought about that packing preservative/lubricant, but that may have played a part. I am also wondering if my occasional use of Green Oil may have contributed, since it is a vegetable base, and I have found that it does turn into a gummy substance after a while. I figured if Coleman Fuel (white gas) didn't do it, nothing would. Anyway, this has become somewhat moot, because I took the bike for a ride today, and my chain is still slipping. I measured the chain while under tension, as suggested earlier by a member, and it is stretched not 1/32" but a full 1/16". So, next is a new chain. Still, that was one tough chain to clean!

Bad Lag

If the lube was a wax lube, getting it off requires a different solvent than oil-based lubes. In particular, acetone does not dissolve wax very well but BBQ lighter fluid does.

Mr. 66

Lol, the 60 year old Brampton above reads spot on with the chain check.

With the chain that far worn it's probable that more of the OP's drivetrain will need to be replaced.

repechage

California leads the way, tightening standards are advancing.

1989Pre 

I forgot to mention that I also used Finish Line Dry with Teflon, sometimes. I have two 1/8" Renolds that didn't cake up like this, then again, I didn't put as many miles on the 3-speed bikes. I haven't used a wax lubricant, but Green Oil, being plant-based, behaves kind of differently. It gets gummy.

masi61

The one thing that hasn't been mentioned is the use of heat. I use a small crock pot since I am a chain waxer and have noted that liquified paraffin wax dissolves some of the dirt out of my chain when I plunge it in there for re-waxing. If you have a crock pot you could try filling it with hot water and turn the heat on high then place a jar with the solvent of choice in the jar. I think the heat my help loosen the goo. Worth a try.

Better yet, if you happen to have a heated ultrasonic cleaner just laying around, do the same procedure in a filled ultrasonic tank brought up to hot temp and put the solvent filled jar with the chain into it into the ultrasonic. I ruined my 3.5 gallon ultrasonic cleaner unfortunately and it no longer heats up like it did, and the ultrasonic action is just a fraction of what it was when it was new (long sad story for another chain thread).

1989Pre 

That's a bit of a stretch (emoticon with blank expression). My Barnard was giving me some grinding in low gear just the other day and I just replaced the chain and I am now fine. That's a Maillard 4-speed freewheel with about the same amount of wear as on my 5-speed(s). It took a N.O.S. Sram PC48 with no problem and now runs fine. I'm going to pop a Sram PC850 on the Grubb (bike I took the Renold off of) next week and let you all know how it rides. Do you know where I can get N.O.S. Atom/Maillard sprockets? I could especially use some 14T and 28T.

1989Pre 

I'll think of paraffin when and if I encounter this same chain condition while inspecting next winter. What should I aim for in temperature/duration?

masi61

I can't be real scientific here - sort of trial an error. If you have an old crock pot you could play around with it and make a sort of double boiler apparatus where you place a solvent filled container with a chain in it into the hot water bath and agitate the solvent filled container while in the hot water bath to check your results. If the solvent turns black you could drain off the dirty and add clean solvent, repeating multiple times with brushing/scraping between cycles to help things along.

1989Pre 

I appreciate the advice.

Mr. 66

Pastorbob may be able to help with freewheel, I don't know about finding NOS. Thats could be more than an arm and a leg.

pastorbobnlnh 

Already working on it for Paul. However, I'm away for the weekend and won't be able to check for spares until Monday.

JohnDThompson 

Wire wheel works well for removing caked on gunk. "Before" section is after the chain had soaked in solvent and brushed with plastic-bristle brush. "After" section is after the wire wheel:

Bad Lag

1989pre - This thread prompted me to clean my drive train. I ended up cleaning the rest of the bike, too.

Holy cow, the chain, freewheel and chain rings of mine were DIRTY! I had half a beach of sand on the chain.

I used 40:1 premix gasoline for two stroke engines. It cleans but does not leave anything unprotected. I wore gloves and worked outdoors.

I used Phil Tenacious oil to relube the chain after it dried.