Aero wheel on only the front?
06-23-20, 08:55 AM
#27
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Categorically false.
The front sees undisturbed airflow. AKA, the "clean" air. After the front of the bike and your moving legs, the rear of the bike sees turbulent airflow or "dirty" air. And no matter the bike, even a tube framed non-aero bike's seat tube slightly shields the leading edge of the rear wheel. The part of the rear wheel seeing clean airflow is likely only the bottom bracket height off the ground.
It's been the budget go-to since the beginning of time for people to buy a nice aero front wheel for their time trial bike while still running something basic or original on the rear of the bike. Then, folks on tight budgets often for race day only will mount their $100 rear disc wheel "cover" over their box section rear wheel. Then off the bike and in storage till next race day.
You see rear discs with small profile 30mm front wheels because of windy race conditions, not because it is the fastest all-out setup. Kind of like on calm days you'd run a front 90mm, less calm 60mm, really bad 30 or 45mm or so. Except for a gale, I'd run the rear disc pretty much all the time as it isn't on the steering axis and has more of your weight balance on it.
Lots to learn before making that assumption and posting it as factual knowledge.
The front sees undisturbed airflow. AKA, the "clean" air. After the front of the bike and your moving legs, the rear of the bike sees turbulent airflow or "dirty" air. And no matter the bike, even a tube framed non-aero bike's seat tube slightly shields the leading edge of the rear wheel. The part of the rear wheel seeing clean airflow is likely only the bottom bracket height off the ground.
It's been the budget go-to since the beginning of time for people to buy a nice aero front wheel for their time trial bike while still running something basic or original on the rear of the bike. Then, folks on tight budgets often for race day only will mount their $100 rear disc wheel "cover" over their box section rear wheel. Then off the bike and in storage till next race day.
You see rear discs with small profile 30mm front wheels because of windy race conditions, not because it is the fastest all-out setup. Kind of like on calm days you'd run a front 90mm, less calm 60mm, really bad 30 or 45mm or so. Except for a gale, I'd run the rear disc pretty much all the time as it isn't on the steering axis and has more of your weight balance on it.
Lots to learn before making that assumption and posting it as factual knowledge.
06-23-20, 09:02 AM
#28
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Thanks for asking. I want to improve my speed. I'm not just going to throw a lot of money at it. I'm looking for biggest bang for the buck. I'm currently riding the original aluminum wheels that came on the bike so maybe a small upgrade wouldn't hurt. Yes, training + improved fitness will yield the biggest results and I'm working on that too. (I've lost 37 lbs since I started riding. This is just my second year)
Realize the extra speed you would gain from aero wheels is real, but miniscule. Like maybe 0.1MPH if that. Which is a big deal on a time-trial or triathlon or race if you want to be competitive. For the rest of us, it is often not really worth doing.
But your choice, of course!
06-23-20, 09:41 AM
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06-23-20, 10:00 AM
#30
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I've read some article saying that having a deeper wheel at the back helps with front wheel stability. Depending on the depth of your front wheels and whether you plan to ride on regular bars or aerobars, that might be a reason to consider a disc cover for the rear, at the very least.
And instead of spending $900-1200 a wheel, I'd get a pair of HED Jet 9s, which can be sourced quite easily for $900-1000 a pair. Amazing wheels and great value.
And instead of spending $900-1200 a wheel, I'd get a pair of HED Jet 9s, which can be sourced quite easily for $900-1000 a pair. Amazing wheels and great value.
06-23-20, 10:33 AM
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Thanks for asking. I want to improve my speed. I'm not just going to throw a lot of money at it. I'm looking for biggest bang for the buck. I'm currently riding the original aluminum wheels that came on the bike so maybe a small upgrade wouldn't hurt. Yes, training + improved fitness will yield the biggest results and I'm working on that too. (I've lost 37 lbs since I started riding. This is just my second year)
Well done.
06-23-20, 11:06 AM
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Those are pricey places that you're looking.
https://www.yoeleobike.com/disc-brak...ad-db-std.html
Personally, I've done well in the $200- $250 price range, used, but that's for tubular, which run cheaper.
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06-23-20, 03:38 PM
#34
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Congrats on the 37-lb weight-loss! That's a huge deal! I ride a somewhat-vintage bike, and have also wondered about doing the front-wheel thing (even though I've toyed around with building an aero wheel with my existing freewheel/hub). I plan to do a 24-hr time-trial next year, but if I manage to get in shape for that, I may just try to borrow a bicycle (or two) for the event.
06-23-20, 05:12 PM
#35
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Rather than a single 55mm+ wheel in that price category, why not look at something slightly shallower like the new Bontragers or Zipp 303 S (if you're running tubeless) or Light Bicycle (if you definitely want the depth and you can wait patiently)? I don't think that you're going to give up anything that you'd notice between the 40mm+ and the 55mm+ depths and you could get a pair and not look like a doofus ().
).in fact, to pivot this thread;
WHAT ARE SOME (Other) REASONABLY PRICED LIGHT WEIGHT AERO WHEELS TO CONSIDER?
No one wants to look like a doofus!
06-23-20, 05:37 PM
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Hunt, Light Bicycle, Zipp, Enve, and 3T are all good places to look. My suggestion would be the LB AR56:
https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-V-...ompatible.html
You can use any 25mm tire and some narrower 28mm tires and not pay a huge aero penalty. With novatec hubs, you'd be looking at around $700, 1550g for the set. There's a "Light Bicycle Wheels" thread if you have a couple hours lol.
If you're willing to use 23mm tires, there's a broad range of wheels you could use. There's yoeleo, farsports, ican, spinonthese, EIE, bontrager and probably others you can look into on weightweenies. Some of these guys offer wider options too.
Last edited by smashndash; 06-23-20 at 05:58 PM.
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06-24-20, 01:38 PM
#37
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Rather than a single 55mm+ wheel in that price category, why not look at something slightly shallower like the new Bontragers or Zipp 303 S (if you're running tubeless) or Light Bicycle (if you definitely want the depth and you can wait patiently)? I don't think that you're going to give up anything that you'd notice between the 40mm+ and the 55mm+ depths and you could get a pair and not look like a doofus ().
).
06-24-20, 01:39 PM
#38
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I think the research is fairly clear that, if you're serious about aero, you want the rim to be wider than the tire.
Hunt, Light Bicycle, Zipp, Enve, and 3T are all good places to look. My suggestion would be the LB AR56:
https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-V-...ompatible.html
You can use any 25mm tire and some narrower 28mm tires and not pay a huge aero penalty. With novatec hubs, you'd be looking at around $700, 1550g for the set. There's a "Light Bicycle Wheels" thread if you have a couple hours lol.
If you're willing to use 23mm tires, there's a broad range of wheels you could use. There's yoeleo, farsports, ican, spinonthese, EIE, bontrager and probably others you can look into on weightweenies. Some of these guys offer wider options too.
Hunt, Light Bicycle, Zipp, Enve, and 3T are all good places to look. My suggestion would be the LB AR56:
https://www.lightbicycle.com/700C-V-...ompatible.html
You can use any 25mm tire and some narrower 28mm tires and not pay a huge aero penalty. With novatec hubs, you'd be looking at around $700, 1550g for the set. There's a "Light Bicycle Wheels" thread if you have a couple hours lol.
If you're willing to use 23mm tires, there's a broad range of wheels you could use. There's yoeleo, farsports, ican, spinonthese, EIE, bontrager and probably others you can look into on weightweenies. Some of these guys offer wider options too.
