prendrefeu

So, you're claiming that this is your tip, however it comes from Bicycling Magazine and other resources before you?
Is your next tip going to come from Cosmo, or Vogue?

Oh, and it is "There" not "Their."

fprintf

186 lbs, 25mm tires yields 105 psi back, 95 psi front. This is 5 psi less than I have been running. I tried these pressures and agree that it is a softer ride, no appreciable difference in speed.

Kimbercop

Had to re-read this one a few times. Thought you said a slide rule and astroLUBE.

lenexatokcmo

We better all order bigger saddle bags to fit that S@#$. They better get cracking on CF mathmatical instruments - no one is going to want to ride around with a half pound astrolabe strapped to their 14 pound build.

caloso

Whatever floats your boat.

chrism32205

So is not running over **** that can cause a flat.....

Psimet2001 

It is my tip. I only referenced that Bicycling has a chart. I would not quote anything from Bicycling. The source of the base data is from Sheldon Brown. I extrapolated the curves and forumlas to allow easier use.

If you don't like it take it up with Sheldon.

EDIT:removed pointless jab. I decided I am just going to stick to posting my tips here. Like I stated in my opening post these are the tips I have picked up over the years so very little of them, if any, are 100% MY tips in nature.

Psimet2001 

Tip #2: While on the topic of tires lets cover some of my favorites for mounting tires. This will be multi-tips in one because just throwing out one at a time is ....boring.

Orientation (yes...seriously):
1. Wheels should be oriented so that if there is a name or logo written on the center of the hub it will be right side up or readable from the rider's vantage point. If there is only logos on the rim then orient them to be readable from the drive side. There is actually a point to all of this.

Tires should be oriented in the same manner. If the tire has a tread and a rotation arrow then follow it's guidelines. If it just has a tread then orient the tread is such a way that the center of the chevron will contact the ground first and then push water out as the tire continues to rotate and deflect. Place the tire's logo directly over center of the valve hole readable from the drive-side.

Tube (yes...I'm serious) - if you want to orient the tube then follow the same guidelines - test readable from the drive side of the bike.

Why? All of this will allow you to diagnose the source/cause of a flat within seconds if the cause is not readily known. If the tube has a long gash/gaping hole then the tire unseated allowing the tube to creep out between the tire and rim. Check the location of the tear with respect to the valve hole and text on the tube and you know exactly where to look on the rim to see if the sidewall is damaged - same goes for tire to see if the sidewall has issues or if the bead has a defect or break in it.

Puncture flat - 2 small holes like a snake bite - underinflation (see tip 1 ) but if it's a single hole is the hole on the side of the tube closest to the rim or the tire (inside/outside)? Where in relation to the valve stem? Where in relation to the writing or logos? That will allow you to pinpoint where to look on the rim or tire within a few seconds to find remaining debris, loose wire, small cut in rim strip, etc.

Without the proper post-flat diagnostic or corrective action you will most likely be doomed to having another flat within short order.

Mounting: Use real levers (alloy) instead of the crappy plastic ones they have out now....if you can find them and can figure out how to use them without destroying your tubes. Coat your tube in baby powder. Put a pile of it in your palm and close your hand around the tube and pull it through. Put a pile of baby powder inside the tire casing. Rotate the casing while shaking it back and forth to coat the inside.

Using talcum powder will help the tire and tube slide against each other while mounting, will help the tube conform to deformations of the tire casing while going over obsticles, etc. If you've ever pulled a tube and had that ripping sound occus as you removed the now welded tube from the casing....that disappears with use of baby powder.

Some of these tips in the future may be one liners, but the beginning ones may be long.

merlinextraligh

Be careful you don't shoot your wad all at once.

prendrefeu

Any tips for collecting 7-Eleven jerseys?

chipcom 

I carry my spare tubes in a freezer bag with some talc in it.

Psimet2001 

I tremendous collection of trivial information regarding the care and upkeep of bicycles. My co-workers love it.

I don't forsee running out anytime soon. They may turn into 1 liners, but I will have enough to last for a while.

fprintf

Famous last words. I predict it'll be like most blogs... gung ho for 3 or 4 weeks when interest is high, and then nothing forevermore.

Psimet2001 

You forget....it doesn't have to necessarily be tech related. The tip COULD be "HTFU". - and I have been on here every day for the last 2 years (approx)....

...god that's pathetic.

nick burns

These get my vote as best tire levers available:



https://www.velo-orange.com/sostcotile.html

ericcox

Tip #3 -- insure your fitness by riding at least as many hours a week as you have posts on BF.

radeane

To the original tip - my floor pump doesn't have a tenth of hundreth of psi scaling, but even if it did, I have a bigger problem.

How do I estimate the amount of air pressure lost when removing the pump head from the tube valve? How much should we estimate in the 'ffffffttttt' when we remove the pump head from the tube valve?

Psimet2001 

First of all round the numbers.

Second, the sound of the air coming out when you remove the pump head is not (entirely) air from the tube. It is actually air from the hose of the pump - air at pressure between the check valve of the pump and the presta valve/head region.

radeane

Fair enough explanation about where the air pressure is coming from (the hose, not the inner tube).

I was just kidding about the tenth and hundreth of psi rating. Going for my first ride with my new psi #'s. Rear tire isn't rated for my recommended pressure, but the front is.

I was usually running anywhere from 110's to 90's for fast ride/comfort ride characteristic (both tires the same pressure). I am looking forward to observing the difference in road feel and handling.

Nachoman

Shoot. You removed my favorite part. Who needs the stinken tips, anyway?

ericcox

Agreed -- I come for the tips, and stay for the witty banter.

Psimet2001 

#3 - Time for a religious discussion.

Chains.

There are so many followers out there among the various flocks that one can't help but feel like a true heretic when trying to introduce some sanity and reason into the discussion. Nevertheless I will endeavour to bring light to this region of purgatory.

There are a thousand or more tips regarding chains and their use and maintenance. Most of them are complete crap. Today I will attack one of them. Mileage as a predictor of wear.

Some will dutifully track the mileage that each chain they have ever had has endured. They will use formulas (not unlike pressure formula) to determine the exact crossover point where the cost of wear to their drivetrain offsets the tremendous price of a new chain.

Some follow the church of commutington where it is well known that all chains will last the full life of the bicycle if only it is dipped in 10W30 or various shadetree homade snake oil elixir. Others worship at the temple of Our Lady of Dura Ache (trademark of pcad enterprises ltd.) where they rely on the wisdom of thier own personal Yoda to clean their chain for them and replace every 200 miles or once a month...whichever is sooner. "Put it on my tab...here's a beer and some home baked cookies for your time and trouble."

Most are follow the teachings of 105. It is the followers of 105 who claim that it is better to gain some marginal performance while maintaining cashflow. It is in this congregation that the idea that a 10spd chain should last 1,500-2,500 miles circulates freely. While the practical side of me wants to join in harmony with their choir I find that at the end of the service all I have is an empty feeling and two fivers missing from my wallet - one to the offering plate and the other lifted by one of those "frugal" college members.

Alas I was left to nail what I felt to be the truth to the door of the establishment in an invitation to public discussion and debate. It simply read:

"Measure your chain. Measure 12 links. Not 5. Not 11. 12 links. If the chain measures 12-1/16" or more then you must look within for a change. If not then all is well. Mileage is meaningless."

Thanks Sheldon.

aham23

i will come here every day in hope of bicycling enlightenment. this shall do for today. later.

DougG

I love this thread. Anyone who correctly uses "orient" and "oriented" instead of "orientate" and "orientated" and gives pressure in "bars" is my kind of rider/writer. Engineer by any chance?

maalea

SHILL, that funny quip was just a lead out for the chain tip.