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Best degreaser for chain cleaning?

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Old 02-28-11, 08:20 AM
  #51  
rgpg_99
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Which Simple Green?

Sorry to reactivate an old thread. Several posters have mentioned Simple Green. I went to Home Depot today, and I saw several types: one in the paint section, to prepare surfaces for painting; one in the cleaning section, as a dish degreaser. Is there a specific one that you use for chain degreasing? I guess something used to prepare a surface for painting may be too abrasive on the metal...

Also, I used kerosene as a kid, but it was only mentioned in passing on the thread. Apart from the strong odor, any disadvantage to it? Is anyone using kerosene as a drive train degreaser? And if so, where do you buy it?
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Old 02-28-11, 09:13 AM
  #52  
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The strong odor probably means it's bad for you to breathe.

I usually just use lube. I happen to like ATF, and I've been told that its strength is that it holds particles in suspension, i.e. it takes them out of the nooks and crannies. Great stuff, and cheap.
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Old 02-28-11, 01:07 PM
  #53  
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Just use paint thinner or odorless mineral spirits. kerosene is okay, but it leaves a thin film. Mineral Spirits evaporates completely, and it is eminently recyclable. I am still using a gallon I bought about two years ago.
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Old 02-28-11, 06:30 PM
  #54  
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Once a month
1. Remove chain
2. Soak in mineral spirits (about a pint) while I clean the rest of the bike
3. Shake vigorously
4. Wipe with clean rag to hasten drying if you want
5. Let dry (use the wifes hair dryer to hasten drying internal parts (if she will let you))
6. Soak chain in light oil and shake vigorously. The longer it soaks the better, but an hour should be sufficient.
7. Pour old mineral spirits through coffee filter and strainer to clean for reuse next month. I change mineral spirits about every 3-4 months
8. Reinstall chain on clean bike
9. Go for a ride
10. A gallon of mineral spirits will last for ever
11. Cheaper than LBS cleaners
12. Wiping your chain only pushes grit into places that you want to clean
13. The chain may look clean on the outside but you can't wipe the inner workings of a chain

Last edited by kjc9640; 02-28-11 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 02-28-11, 07:15 PM
  #55  
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More casual than above..
a little Kerosene, on a rag , and back pedal the chain thru it..

IG hub, low end, not a high zoot 11 speed cghain
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Old 02-28-11, 07:22 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by JanMM
+1.
Gasoline is so hazardous that it should not be used for anything other than powering internal combustion engines.
+2
Due to its low flash point gasoline is way too dangerous to be used as a solvent. I use mineral spirits, kerosene would also work well.
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Old 02-28-11, 07:37 PM
  #57  
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I only use paraffin (canning wax) to lube my chain, so it doesn't really get dirty. Put it in the double boiler about every 500 miles or so, all the old wax melts off, and any little bit of crud falls through the screen in the bottom. After about 30 min in the pot, the wax seeps into all the little crevices. Then just hang it over the pot to drip until it's cool. It's a little stiff at first, but it loosens right up in a couple miles. Just for a little extra lube, I also dumped a little tube of lock graphite in the wax. Dirt doesn't stick, so your gears & derailleur wheels stay nice & clean, too!
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Old 02-28-11, 08:02 PM
  #58  
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I've heard that the lube-and-wipe method pushes dirt in, but it seems (to me) to pull dirt out. The chain runs nicely. I'm not taking my chain off every month! Flushing enough oil through it must take at least some dirt out.
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Old 06-06-13, 09:22 AM
  #59  
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I use these materials to clean my drivetrain:

1. Generic blue dishwashing liquid

2. 1 gal bucket

3. Dish brush

4. Red shop towel

5. Finish Line Teflon Dry Lube

6. Big towel

First I place a big towel under the bicycle's drivetrain and wipe the chain thoroughly with the red shop towel. I then pour blue dishwashing liquid and hot water in the bucket and I dip the dish brush in the 1 gal bucket and scrub the chain followed by the front sprockets, and rear cassettes until they are all clean. I then let the drivetrain air dry completely before I generously apply Finish Line Dry Lube on the chain much later.

Last edited by BJC; 05-30-18 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 06-06-13, 10:58 AM
  #60  
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Very interesting that the chain manufacturers advise against cleaning with a solvent. I have always cleaned with paint thinner or kerosene and my chains always wear quickly. Think I will try the wipe only method on my next chain and see if it lasts any longer.
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Old 06-06-13, 02:19 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by BJC
I use these materials to clean my drivetrain:

1. Chain cleaning solution of 1/4 blue dishwashing liquid & 3/4 water.

2. 1 gal bucket

3. Finish Line Grunge Brush

4. Red shop towel

5. Finish Line Teflon Dry Lube

6. Big towel

First place a big towel under the bicycle's drivetrain. I use the long end of the Grunge Brush to scrub the front sprockets, rear cassettes, and both derailleurs. I put the chain cleaning solution on my chain and I let it soak on the chain for at least an hour. Then I pour some water in a bucket and I dip the three-brush end of the Grunge Brush in it and I scrub the chain vigorously dipping the brush in the water occassionally and continuously scrubbing until the chain is clean. I then wipe off the chain with a shop towel and I let it air dry completely before I apply any Dry Lube on the chain.
Since you bumped a 2 years' dormant thread to add this, how long do your chains last with this method?
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Old 06-06-13, 02:46 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by rgpg_99
Also, I used kerosene as a kid, but it was only mentioned in passing on the thread. Apart from the strong odor, any disadvantage to it? Is anyone using kerosene as a drive train degreaser? And if so, where do you buy it?
Water-based degreasers, including anything 'citrus' or 'green' are useless. A perverse law of the universe is that the more flammable and toxic a degreaser, the better it works. Kerosene, mineral spirits or Varsol are a good compromises.

But then I don't spend too much time fussing about chain maintenance. It is hard to do much useful when the chain is on the bike, as the wear that causes a chain to go bad is on the inside. Keeping a chain meticulously clean and lubed will marginally increase its life. I go through 4 chains per year; buy cheap and replace often. If you don't replace when it is time, then the 'stretched' chain will quickly eat through the rings and cogs, which are the expensive parts.

This is one good reason to be 1-2 cogs behind the early adopter types. Have you priced 11-speed chains?
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Old 06-06-13, 06:07 PM
  #63  
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I'm with Dave Mayer in replacing chains early and not going to so many speeds. I have a 3x9 drivetrain from about 1998. I think it's my newest, and it's not currently installed on any of my bikes. Right now, I'm riding a 3x7 drivetrain.

Cleaning chains is too icky and time consuming.
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Old 06-06-13, 06:16 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by varminter
When considering how many millions of people visit the gas station daily for a refuel and none blow themselves up...
Oh?
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Old 06-10-13, 03:10 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
Since you bumped a 2 years' dormant thread to add this, how long do your chains last with this method?
Regarding the chain's longevity, I cannot answer that; however, the reason why I use the blue dishwashing liquid is that it also cuts grease and washes dirt off the bicycle chain without emitting the noxious fumes associated with degreaser.

Last edited by BJC; 10-10-13 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 06-10-13, 04:16 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Dave Mayer
Water-based degreasers, including anything 'citrus' or 'green' are useless. A perverse law of the universe is that the more flammable and toxic a degreaser, the better it works. Kerosene, mineral spirits or Varsol are a good compromises.

But then I don't spend too much time fussing about chain maintenance. It is hard to do much useful when the chain is on the bike, as the wear that causes a chain to go bad is on the inside. Keeping a chain meticulously clean and lubed will marginally increase its life. I go through 4 chains per year; buy cheap and replace often. If you don't replace when it is time, then the 'stretched' chain will quickly eat through the rings and cogs, which are the expensive parts.

This is one good reason to be 1-2 cogs behind the early adopter types. Have you priced 11-speed chains?
Properly cleaned chains last a long time. I clean mine in Simple green and water in an ultrasonic cleaner. My 8sp road chain (same as the 6 and 7) has over 7700 miles on it and shows no wear.
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