neurocop

Glad this thread was reopened. I used to use Tri-Flow (used to be called Tri-Flon, I think). What I use now is a product intended for the electronics industry, called Pro-Gold, by CAIG. You can get it at Frye's and other electronics supply houses. IMHO it is as good as it gets.

MileHighMark

Dumonde Tech is my favorite. I use the "lite" formula for all but the nastiest conditions (then I use the original formula).

Gummee

Whatever y'all are using WIPE OFF THE EXCESS when you're done lubing up the chain.

-Your bicycle mechanic will thank you. :nod

I've been using Tri-Flow since I started riding in the 80s. As long as you run the chain through a rag after application, it doesn't really get any dirtier than anything else. Skip that step and its a nasty, black mess.

M

DArthurBrown

One of the bike mechanics in Corvallis, OR that I used to ride with tried this on the loaner/rental bikes they had in the shop. He was using Tri-Flow, Finish Line, and something else--maybe Phil Wood--it wasn't a wax lube, anyway, I remember having long discussions about the evils of wax lubes.

His informal conclusion was that the brand or consistency of the lube makes little difference to the life of the chain. I would be willing to bet that riding the chain dry would even only have a slight effect, if any, so long as the chain was kept from rusting. He did find the brand of the chain and cassette made a huge difference in the life of the chain. SRAM components burned up more quickly; Shimano and KMC stuff lasted almost twice as long before needing to be replaced...go figure.

FBinNY 

I'll cover that bet. While the difference in chain life among the various lubes can be narrow if each are used properly. A dry (unlubed) chain will wear out at a staggering rate, especially if ridden at higher loads, like from hill climbing, or strong, fast riding.

Coming back to the differences in lubes, the difference can be small at lower loads, but as loads increase the differences will become more obvious, so what's adequate for a casual rider at the shore, may not perform well for a strong rider in hilly terrain.

ronnylee61

Here's my anecdotal input: I wipe my chain down before every ride and lube it with Tri-Flow about evey 100 miles. I've used just about every kind of lube and found that Tri-Flow makes my chain run and shift noiselessly (when in proper adjustment). Other lubes, especially wax based ones, seem to run noisy and toward the end of a ride it sounds like sandpaper grit is in my drivetrain. The Tri-Flow is still completely silent at the end of a ride.

DArthurBrown

One other thing I just thought of. Many people somehow have gotten the idea that degreasing the manufacturer's lubricant before installing the chain is the way to go.

Sheldon Brown commented on this. The chain lube that comes on good chains is far superior to anything on the shelf. It is very thin, but tacky. It attracts very little grit, yet keeps the drivetrain silent for nearly 2000 road miles in my experience (unless you get caught in weather or dust).

I'm not sure why some people think its terrible lube. On some cheaper chains, KMC and department store chains, the lube is more of an anti-rust coating. Maybe that's why. But Shimano chains come pre-lubed, and it is clearly the best lubricant option.

MileHighMark

The stock lube/coating that came on my KMC chains attracted so much dirt that shifting actually suffered. My commute includes 3-6 miles of dirt roads/trails (distance depends on the route I take), so I had to degrease the KMC chains in order to keep things running smoothly. The lube/coating on Shimano and SRAM chains isn't nearly as bad, so I just run them through a rag with some Pro-Link applied (to the rag).

jim hughes

I've also found new chains to be 'sticky' so whatever that stuff is, I remove it and apply something that stays cleaner.

Chain makers could easily clear up this perennial mystery by just putting a note on the package: "your new chain has been lubricated with [some sort of description] and does not need to be relubricated before first use". But they don't. I think they enjoy laughing at us.

Six jours

I use light motor oil. Once a week or so I hose the chain down with WD-40 and then clean it with a rag. The next day I apply a 15 or so drops of motor oil and am good for another week. Every month or so I remove the chain (my primary bike uses a Rohloff hub with an Izumi V track chain, which can be removed by undoing a little nut and bolt) soak it in 50/50 diesel/gasoline (the bit of lubricant in the diesel ensures that the internals of the chain never get completely dried out) then hang it to dry for a few hours. Then it gets the motor oil treatment and back on the bike.

With this method I get essentially zero chain wear - although I suspect the fenders are pretty effective at helping to keep the drivetrain clean.

lopek77

Make sure u apply it warm. Keep the bottle inside.

FBinNY 

The temperature of the lube is much less important than the temperature of the chain. While many thin lubes will wick at any temperature, non-solvent containing lubes will cool and thicken upon contact with a cold chain and not penetrate as effectively.

An analogy can be drawn to soldering electrical connections or pipes. You don't melt the solder onto a cold joint, but instead heat the joint to draw the solvent in.

Warming the lube can make a slight difference when applying to a room temperature chain, but warming the chain is far more effective.

lopek77

You right about that if its really, really cold. I didn't notice any problems when applying warm T9 to cold chain with temps anywhere between 20 and 32F.

Camilo

Why? Is there something new to discuss since 2004? I think not.

jim hughes

I have a shop, attached to the garage. The shop has radiant heat in the slab and I maintain 60F in the winter - perfect for bike maintainance.

c.miller64

CorrosionX

Mainframeguy

I can say from experience that a tandem drive chain is the sternest test - less than 1,000 miles on our last chain, running a KMC this time to see if it can be extended. Trialling a product called "Fenwicks" that was on a promo at the LBS sale recently (but reading this thread and wondering about trying others more tested....
And I just saw the final post and happen to have a can of CorrosionX Heavy Duty, (using sparingly in various situations due to outside storage situation). Thinking of using it since it was highly expensive to get in the UK, but suspecting it will be a dirt magnet?

Ira B

I remove the chain, clean it, soak in 80-90 gear oil, wipe off as much as possible and wipe again after a few miles.
Makes for a very smooth quiet chain, lasts a very long time, repels rain and water.
Probably not the best choice in a dusty environment.

billonmidwatch

Finish Line Teflon-Plus Dry Lube Squeeze Bottle.
They say: The industry's original "dry" bicycle lubricant.
Price: 4oz at Performance $8.
My review: I've used this with good results.

DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant.
They say: Non-petroleum formula will not attract dirt. Contains Teflon and Molybdenum for high performance. Patented self-cleaning technology sheds contaminates to reduce wear. Contains rust and corrosion inhibitors. Water-repelling formula.
Price: 4oz at Lowes Home Improvement store $4.
My review: I just bought this. I think it's essentially the same thing for half price. Score!

lopek77

Is 2004 same as 2011? I would call it long time test coming from experience of other riders, also, there is many new users looking for fresh and updated info...
Now, Is there something new to discuss since 2004? I think YES.

leob1

Astroglide.

fietsbob

+1, the stuff it's packed in when new, but then you have to re-lubricate it eventually..

onward to 100 posts..

davidad

You be a sick puppy!

davidad

Nah. Oil is oil and there is nothing exotic about a bike chain.

FBinNY 

Gee, that stuff's even pricier than Chain-L!!! Is there a home brew alternative? (rhetorical, no answer needed)