Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#4952
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Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
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updates to this guy:
im calling it The White Rabbit now
hangy jawn to support the rear bag and make it look nice
changed the saddle to a crappy origin8 one that my bum agrees with till i find something better, i just cant get on with a saddle that has a curved top, no matter how perfect they look on this bike
frame pump
tubeless
soon: second pair of wheels with dyno front with matching lights, 10sp sram rd+cassette
im calling it The White Rabbit now
hangy jawn to support the rear bag and make it look nice
changed the saddle to a crappy origin8 one that my bum agrees with till i find something better, i just cant get on with a saddle that has a curved top, no matter how perfect they look on this bike
frame pump
tubeless
soon: second pair of wheels with dyno front with matching lights, 10sp sram rd+cassette
#4953
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Worcester, Massachusetts
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Bikes: Fuji Sportif 1.7C, Shogun Metro AT, Jamis Durango SX, Miyata Alumicross, Fuji Special Road Racer, Mongoose ATB, Fuji SST 1.0 Team, Gitane (?), Specialized Rockhopper SS, Univega Gran Turismo, Univega Supra Sport Mixte, Nishiki Tri-A, Diamondback Coil
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My granfather bought it when he was in his late 70's and used it for riding sportives. I rode some of the events with him when I was young. Since he passed the bike have just been standing around. It got to the point when I had to use it or... Never liked riding it before but some new parts makes it feel like a very well sorted modern bike. Took a ride together with a Supersix Evo the other day. We switched back and forth between the bikes and they both felt fast and comfortable. The Evo had a slight edge but it wasn't much in it. In the end for me the Peugeot is much more versatile. It has clearance for studded tires and you can take a slow ride in just jeans and a shirt if you want to. Doing that on a carbon race bike makes you feel like a moron but on a french classic it's OK.
#4955
not a climber
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Atlanta, Ga
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Bikes: road bikes '85 Italian steel 2x6, '95 USA titanium 2x9, '00 folder 1x7, '07 Taiwan carbon 2x10
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I have an '85 Italian classic steel Frugeri (small town shop 25 miles west of Milan). Sig. Ottaviano Frugeri is an old friend of Sig. Ernesto Colnago and my frame was built by one of their associates. It's a great bike, to me, but not a collectible. Italian crit racing tight geometry. When I haven't ridden it in a while, at first it feels squirrely, like, I imagine, driving a Ferrari.
In the 90's I upgraded the cheap, worn out Ofmega 6 speed components (it was all I could afford as a college student when I bought the bike new), with a Shimano 105 derailleur, SIS downtube shifters, and "aero" brake levers (cables under the bar tape).
I love the bike, it still fits me like a glove. But I've never liked the feel of the brake hoods - too short, too much pressure between my thumbs and fingers. Sram brifters feel much more comfortable to me. I received a pair of Sram brifters from a friend's wrecked bike and I'm considering putting them on my Frugeri, with the same Shimano 105 derailleur and 6 speed freewheel. Then limit the derailleur movement with the H and L screws to only 5 clicks up and 5 clicks down.
Before diving into disassembly and reassembly, please check my plan. According to this website,
Art's Cyclery Blog » Science Behind the Magic | Drivetrain Compatibility
the Shimano 6 shifters have a cable pull of 3.2 mm. The Sram (Exact Actuation) 10 Road/Mountain brifters have a cable pull of 3.1 mm. Which *might* be *close enough*.
Or if not, Sheldon Brown explains an alternative cable routing
Mixing Brands of Shifters, Rear Derailers and Cassettes
which has the effect of making the derailleur move *slightly* farther with each click. So I'm hoping 3.1 to 3.2 is slightly farther enough.
What do you think? Am I missing something? Does this sound like it will work? Has anyone done the same?
Pictures to follow.
In the 90's I upgraded the cheap, worn out Ofmega 6 speed components (it was all I could afford as a college student when I bought the bike new), with a Shimano 105 derailleur, SIS downtube shifters, and "aero" brake levers (cables under the bar tape).
I love the bike, it still fits me like a glove. But I've never liked the feel of the brake hoods - too short, too much pressure between my thumbs and fingers. Sram brifters feel much more comfortable to me. I received a pair of Sram brifters from a friend's wrecked bike and I'm considering putting them on my Frugeri, with the same Shimano 105 derailleur and 6 speed freewheel. Then limit the derailleur movement with the H and L screws to only 5 clicks up and 5 clicks down.
Before diving into disassembly and reassembly, please check my plan. According to this website,
Art's Cyclery Blog » Science Behind the Magic | Drivetrain Compatibility
the Shimano 6 shifters have a cable pull of 3.2 mm. The Sram (Exact Actuation) 10 Road/Mountain brifters have a cable pull of 3.1 mm. Which *might* be *close enough*.
Or if not, Sheldon Brown explains an alternative cable routing
Mixing Brands of Shifters, Rear Derailers and Cassettes
which has the effect of making the derailleur move *slightly* farther with each click. So I'm hoping 3.1 to 3.2 is slightly farther enough.
What do you think? Am I missing something? Does this sound like it will work? Has anyone done the same?
Pictures to follow.
#4957
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I'd say give it a try. What's the worst that could happen? You're out $10 worth of cables?
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#4958
Brown Jersey Winner
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i havent done the same thing, but i have simular. the trek above is 8 speed shimano with 10 speed campy shifters, works like it was made for each other. soon i will be changing out the 8 speed shimano to 10 speed sram mtb group with the same shifters and it should work equally well.
im all for experimentation and "breaking the rules"
check this out also, kinda puts what will work with what in simpler terms with colored charts
#4959
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When doing your setup, do H & L limits first as usual -- then try adjusting your shifting starting at the center of the cluster (instead of the two highest gears as usual) -- this way the mismatch of 0.1mm doesn't end up cumulative as you move from one end of the cluster to the other, but only 2-3 steps in each direction. Not sure if I am explaining this well enough; coffee is not working yet.
#4960
not a climber
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Atlanta, Ga
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Bikes: road bikes '85 Italian steel 2x6, '95 USA titanium 2x9, '00 folder 1x7, '07 Taiwan carbon 2x10
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When doing your setup, do H & L limits first as usual -- then try adjusting your shifting starting at the center of the cluster (instead of the two highest gears as usual) -- this way the mismatch of 0.1mm doesn't end up cumulative as you move from one end of the cluster to the other, but only 2-3 steps in each direction. Not sure if I am explaining this well enough; coffee is not working yet.
#4963
keep it simple.
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One-tenth of one millimeter is really not much... That combined with the HUGE fudge-factor that 6 speed spacing allows (vs. 10 or 11spd) leads me to think it will work just fine, just get your limit-screws correct.
#4964
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#4965
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Thanks for the kind words everyone. The bike lives in Sweden. This tread was a good guide when putting the bike together and I have had a brilliant time riding it since. Trying to clock as many miles as possible before the winter hits us here. Alll the best.
#4967
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Well. I liked the conversion so much I decided to go all out. Moved the microshift drivetrain (great shiftin by the way!) to A Schwinn Traveler that I think i pretty much stole from craigslist ($80). Then got new wheels (November hubs with pacenti sl23 v2 rims), Athena 11 groupset, and compact handlebar (soma hwy1). damn happy.
They are clearly set up differently. the Traveler is my commuter. nice upright position, comfy with good sight lines. the Nishiki is nice and streched out which i love when im riding out by myself.
They are clearly set up differently. the Traveler is my commuter. nice upright position, comfy with good sight lines. the Nishiki is nice and streched out which i love when im riding out by myself.
Last edited by neologism; 10-20-15 at 10:59 AM. Reason: additional info
#4969
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I think this is a 1988 version of a Norco Monterey. About 63cm.
I bought as a frame from the local co-op. I had to cut the crown race down from 27mm to 26.4mm to fit a headset I had available to me at the time. Also had to stretch rear spacing to 130mm to fit a modern wheel. Yay steel!
Installed 11 speed Shimano 105 5800 series STI's, front and rear derailleurs, chain and cassette. The FSA Gossamer compact crankset and MegaExo bottom bracket were from the co-op (price tag needs to be peeled off still). Long reach Tektro R559 brakes. Ritchey Comp 46cm bars.
Mavic Aksium Race wheelset also from the co-op, with some used tires for now. Schwalbe Landcruiser on the rear and Continental Twister on the front. I'm going to swap the pedals soon to my Shimano XT Trekking SPD pedals.
The frame was so large I didn't have to trim any of the shifter housing. I mistakenly installed the front shifter cable in the rear STI and it was about 6 inches too short, but realized I had the two mixed up and rear cable fit just fine.
I bought as a frame from the local co-op. I had to cut the crown race down from 27mm to 26.4mm to fit a headset I had available to me at the time. Also had to stretch rear spacing to 130mm to fit a modern wheel. Yay steel!
Installed 11 speed Shimano 105 5800 series STI's, front and rear derailleurs, chain and cassette. The FSA Gossamer compact crankset and MegaExo bottom bracket were from the co-op (price tag needs to be peeled off still). Long reach Tektro R559 brakes. Ritchey Comp 46cm bars.
Mavic Aksium Race wheelset also from the co-op, with some used tires for now. Schwalbe Landcruiser on the rear and Continental Twister on the front. I'm going to swap the pedals soon to my Shimano XT Trekking SPD pedals.
The frame was so large I didn't have to trim any of the shifter housing. I mistakenly installed the front shifter cable in the rear STI and it was about 6 inches too short, but realized I had the two mixed up and rear cable fit just fine.
Last edited by safepants; 10-20-15 at 11:29 AM. Reason: better photos
#4970
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Location: Bronx, NYC
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Bikes: '19 Fuji Gran Fondo 1.5, '72 Peugeot PX10, '71ish Gitane Super Corsa, '78 Fuji Newest, '89 Fuji Ace, '94 Cannondale R600, early '70s LeJeune Pro project
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@neologism and @safepants Great builds guys! I do have a question for you since I am finishing my upgrade to an 11 speed 5800 Shimano groupset. My 130 wheelset fits perfectly in the dropouts with a little manual spreading and slight dish adjustment. I did not think to check to see if the dropouts need realignment though. Did you have any issues with dropout alignment that you had to resolve? If so I should probably go back and check this out. Once again NICE!
#4971
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@neologism and @safepants Great builds guys! I do have a question for you since I am finishing my upgrade to an 11 speed 5800 Shimano groupset. My 130 wheelset fits perfectly in the dropouts with a little manual spreading and slight dish adjustment. I did not think to check to see if the dropouts need realignment though. Did you have any issues with dropout alignment that you had to resolve? If so I should probably go back and check this out. Once again NICE!
Well, I cold set the Nishiki to 130, and due to a prior mishap involving a poorly set limit screws, a rear mech, and some spokes....my derailleur hanger was pretty out of alignment. So when I cold set the frame and aligned the hanger, I want ahead and realigned the drop outs. shifting is very crisp and honestly doesn't miss a shift. Now on the other hand on the Schwinn I just shoved the wheel in and didn't even check to make sure the hanger was aligned...shifts perfectly. To be fair the 11 speed campy is pretty touchy to set up so I knew I had to go the extra mile with it to get it to work.
In My opinion you wont go wrong doing it the right way the first time. you may get lucky and realigning everything would be overkill....but on the other hand why bother to find out?
#4972
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@neologism and @safepants Great builds guys! I do have a question for you since I am finishing my upgrade to an 11 speed 5800 Shimano groupset. My 130 wheelset fits perfectly in the dropouts with a little manual spreading and slight dish adjustment. I did not think to check to see if the dropouts need realignment though. Did you have any issues with dropout alignment that you had to resolve? If so I should probably go back and check this out. Once again NICE!
I used the Park Tool dropout alignment tool at the co-op too. I did have to realign mine, and also used the derailleur hanger alignment tool to fix that up too. My low limit needs an adjustment as I get slight skipping in the 32 cog so I might have to check the hanger alignment again.
Frame and Fork End Alignment Gauge Set - Park Tool
#4974
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Just a quick Q. I am surprised this has a Cromor tubing sticker. Is it just me, or wouldn't a San Cristobal with full chrome be built with SL? My "entry-level" unknown model Ciocc has SL, and San Cristobal is supposed to be their highest end frame.
#4975
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Location: Mullumbimby, Australia
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Bikes: Trek Modone 6.5 (08), 1930's Healing, 1994 Ritchey Road Logic, Kuwuhara T/T early 90's, Shogun Prairie Breaker Expert 1992,
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Made a few changes to my 94 Ritchey since I last posted it
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