Illinest

I have an old Univega Activa hybrid. It suits my needs I guess. I paid 40$ for it and I use it to ride around the neighborhood with my kids. I'm not attached to it but I really like the fact that it was cheap.

It definitely needs new tires though, and that got me thinking about fixing other things as well. For one thing the grips are disintegrating in my hands. They're sticky and leave black crap on my palms. They will need to be replaced. Then there's the handlebar itself. I suppose the previous owner must have preferred a narrow bar because the hand placements seem ludicrously close together. The ends of the grips even stick out past the end of the bar. I would definitely prefer a new bar.

And there are a few other problems but they're ones that I can probably bear. The seat is pretty old. I also failed to get the derailleur adjustment quite right, so my 21 speed is effectively only an 18 speed.


My question is - if I ask a bike shop to fix the tires, grips and bar am I going to be able to get that done for under 200$? I'd ask the bike shop if I could, but Corona. I'm afraid that it would take closer to 300$ and at that point I think I'd be starting to shop new bikes instead.

DorkDisk

A straight tires, grips, and bars install should cost you parts plus minimal labor. However, if your new wider bars require re-cabling, your price will go up as you are now doing a full tuneup; so tuneup + parts=cost

A full teardown and build in NYC starts at 180 in labor plus parts. Everything gets torn down to springs and bolts, cleaned, and built up.

Illinest

Thanks. That's the sort of data I can use.

Now that you say that I pretty much expect the bike shop to quote 250-ish, but no way to know for sure until they open. Soon I hope.

TakingMyTime

My thought is it's probably going to get really expensive if you take it to a shop. If the grips are "disintegrating", to me that would indicate that the bike was either left outside a lot or at the very least... frequently. You'd probably end up getting a call from the shop that the chain needs replacing etc etc.

How do you feel about doing the work yourself?

stevel610 

I'd say go to biketiresdirect.com and get a pair of tires. General Lee spending a little more will provide greater long-term value. Schwalbe Marathons at $36 each right now would last you for years. Or you could get a cheaper set of tires that will start cracking after a year or two.

Pick a pair of $10 grips or find a set at Walmart.

YouTube is your friend as far as derailleur and brake adjustments (or any other bike service item).

Illinest

Question first - does a closed, dry shed count as being outdoors? I have at least kept it out of the rain and sun but I can't speak to it's care before I bought it.

As for the work - I'm not afraid to do things but I tried to adjust the derailleurs three times and never got it right. I lack the experience to know if there's a material defect in the parts or if I'm just screwing something up. I think it might be a little of both. I did successfully adjust the seat height but the hardware there was visibly deficient and it was a ***** to get done. I suspect somebody was using metric tools on sae bolts or vice versa. There's a non-zero chance that I'll take some small parts off and discover that they need to be replaced. I figure a bike shop probably has bins full of bolts they can try, but I don't have it on hand so for me there's an element of avoiding the hassles of finding new hardware.

Illinest

I have an idea - maybe I'm wrong - that tire replacements mean spoke adjustments should be done too? I think my wheels are round and straight but I don't actually know. I never checked it. I'm still at the stage where if it's not obviously causing problems then I'm not worried about it, but if I replace the tires myself I'll probably want to start being more responsible about it.

Illinest

Bike in question. Giant brand grip/shifter combo. Rusty and rounded off seat post bolt. Ripped seat. Etc...

AlmostTrick

Univega is a good brand, and I'm guessing it's a steel frame. If it fits you well and you like it then it's worth fixing up.

Check Craigslist in your area for freelance bike mechanics. Most of us charge half of what a bike shop would charge, and can spend more time on your bike than a shop mechanic can. Where are you located?

Illinest

Near Harrisburg PA.

stevel610 

Tire replacement and wheel truing are separate items. You should be able to replace the tubes and tires without needing to true if they were ok before you started.

You may think of it as spending the money you would have on the initial purchase of a nicer bike. That's what I do.

Illinest

Okay. That's good to know.

DorkDisk

Your rear shifter is missing a barrel adjustor; should be easy to source but probably not worth it. GripShift is plastic, brittle, and hard to replace cables. I'd replace those for some triggers or thumbies.

Miradaman

Keep trying, you'll figure it out, save money and have the satisfaction of riding a bike you fixed up yourself. Like you, I'm, shall we say, "frugal", with no mechanical skills whatsoever. Between this forum and youtube I taught myself to maintain and refurbish my collection of junk bikes. I've discovered adjusting derailleurs takes practice as well as technical knowledge, seems as much art as science. Adjusting brakes, replacing tires/tubes/grips as well as cable and brake pads are much simpler.

TakingMyTime

I can't really tell you what to do, but from what I can see from your pictures and what others have suggested, this is what I would do if it were my bike. Mind you, I would do all the work myself and providing that the bottom bracket and hubs are in good shape it would probably cost me $100-$140 to get that in what I consider acceptable shape.

1. New handlebar off of C/L. Measure the diameter of the bar where it clamps onto the stem. That stem appears to be a compression type and may not take new bars with a heavy bend to them. Make sure you get bars with the same diameter.

2. Get some new shifters and throw away the grip-shifters that are on that bike. Make sure you get compatible speed shifters.

3. Get new brake and shifter cables and cable housing. Be sure to be enough ferules too. From you pictures it looks like several are missing and you might not be able to use some of them or not have enough.

4. New grips off of C/L or elsewhere.

5. New tires. Check the size on the current tires and buy a similar size set. They don't have to be the same brand. But don't go cheap. If you plan on riding the bike a quality tire is going to be at least $25 each. (Don't forget tubes).

6. Check the brake pads. You might need a new set for the bike. You LBS should be able to provide you with a compatible set.

7. New Saddle off of C/L. You're probably going to need a new seat post for the new saddle. The seat post on that bike does not look original and the current saddle/seat post was probably stuck in there as a 2nd thought. You'll need to measure the diameter and ensure you get the correct size post. To my eye that post looks smaller that what that frame should take. If the seat post bolt is tightened to where it almost comes together would indicate is has a wrong sized seat post in it now.

8. The Stem look to be extended a little more than what might be safe. I would loosen and remove it to see how much of it is fitting into the head-tube. You may want to lower it a bit.

DorkDisk

It looks like your bike is a 97.

Right off the bat, I believe your cantilever brakes have been recalled for the cracked plastic spring covers. You may or may not be able to score new brakes at your LBS. This is an old issue so any shop that has been open for a while will be familiar with it but I'm not sure if Shimano is still responding on this issue. Your crankset might be a recall item as well, check the model number. For this, replacement is easier and is still being carried out by Shimano via LBS.

Second, this is a low end bike. Aside from the hi-ten construction, the seatpost diameter is 25.4 on a 28.6 seat tube. This is one thick tubed bike; high end steel will have a 27.2mm seatpost, down to about 26.4 for something like Tange 2. Oddly, its the seat tube that is cromo.

Chin Haur bottom bracket is sadly a known item to anyone who worked on bikes in the 90s. These are terrible brand new and should be replaced. Any overhaul of a bike without touching the bearings is not serious.

This can be a good project bike to practice bike mechanics on but I wouldn't sink too much money into it. But first, is the seatpost stuck?

Illinest

I appreciate your encouragement my dude. Thank you.


You inspired me to look at CL again but I think the parts situation might be depressed right now by the 'rona. There are parts available though.



This is an epic information blast.

I think I need to spend a few days digesting.

But the seatpost? Not stuck. I adjusted it to the best of my ability according to what I read and watched on the internet. It was a huge pain getting it right though. The first seven times (or so...) I tried it the seatpost slipped when I sat on it.

HerrKaLeun

With a cheap bike you have to repair yourself if you want any economics.

If you pay shop prices, you may as well buy a better bike.

DorkDisk

New bike-shop, hi-ten fixies retail for about 375 so you have some margin and it will have the nice ride of a steel bike.

Perhaps a co-op will be a good match, as they will have a stockpile of parts, service prices are lower, and they are usually staffed by volunteer bike evangelists. For components, STX will be a good place to look, as it is high quality, abundant, and not a collector's group.

Illinest

I thought I was looking at grips, tires and a bar. It's sorta spiraled away from that.

MRT2

You are right on the bubble with this bike.
On the one hand, Univega made some nice bikes back in the day, and the frame looks decent, if a bit heavy so there is that. In tip top shape, it is about as good as an entry level Trek, Giant, or similar bike shop brand you can get for around $400 or $450 retail. (probably $500 out the door with tax and a few accessories on top of that). And it is steel, which some people actually prefer the ride to entry level aluminum frames. (I am in that group).
On the other hand, it is in rough shape, and at a minimum needs all the things you mentioned like saddle, handlebars, grips, tires, derailleurs, shifters, and maybe cables, chain, and freewheel. None of these items is expensive, but clearly this bike was neglected and all those parts, if purchased new add up. And, the bike probably doesn't have a lot of resale value, so no guarantee you can flip the bike and get all your money back.
That said, there is a satisfaction of bringing an old bike back from the brink of putting in a landfill. And something cool about having something different from what everybody is riding these days.
Do you have any friends into bikes? Maybe you can get some parts cheap, or even free from one of them. I just recently sort of gifted a NOS saddle to an acquaintance, that, if he had to go out and buy new, would have cost him somewhere between $50 and $80. vAnd I gifted a lightly used helmet to another friend who is looking to get back into biking but doesn't have much extra money to spend at a bike shop in this time of economic uncertainty. Again, the money saved was somewhere between $40 to $50 for a basic new helmet. My only suggestion on a used helmet is, only take one from someone who can guarantee it has never been crashed. So, ask around. You never know what some friend or friend of friend has just sitting in his garage or basement.

HerrKaLeun

My advice before spending any money: Make a list of ALL the things that need fixing and price them out.

it happens too often that you fix one, then another pops up. but due to sunk-cost-fallacy you now feel obligated to fix that as well, then another... in the end you spend more time and money than just buying a new (new to you) bike.

I also recommend prioritizing on buying things you can transfer to another future bike. Saddle, pedals, handlebar etc. Even drive train if you are smart (which may be hard with an old outdated bike). that way the money not wasted if you give up on this bike.

Illinest

I had a nice surprise and some not so nice surprises today. I managed to show the bike to someone at the bike shop! Nice!

All the other things were not so nice, and I think they were too kind-hearted to take my money for fixing up a bike that isn't worth the trouble. That's my words, not theirs.

They thought the entire drivetrain was basically shot and they echoed the concerns about the springs on the brakes. They thought it would take a minimum of 200$. I didn't even get to ask about a new bar or a new seat.


So now my dilemma is completely changed. Looking at frugal replacement bikes. But thanks to everyone who responded.

MRT2

Well, maybe you can source some of the parts yourself and work with the shop to do the work. Something like a handlebar, grips or saddle are things you can source pretty easily.
But, even if the shop balks at that, if they can say it will be $200, and not more, I would still say that is not terrible. 40 to 50% the cost of a comparable new alternative is not bad at all. It comes down to working with the right shop. Years ago, I sort of did that when looking for a bike for my son, who was about 10 or 11 at the time. I wanted a quality bike, but I knew it was only going to fit for maybe 2 years, given his estimated growth. So I went around to various shops and started asking around, if anybody had a used bike in his size in ready to ride condition. One smaller independent shop didn't have a bike, but they had a bike with a decent frame, but the rest of the bike clearly needing some work. I basically told them, if they could put it together and make it ready to ride for $200 or so, they had a deal. A few weeks later, I came to pick up the bike and it looked almost new, even though the bike was maybe 12 years old. Sure enough, 2 years later, my son had grown 7 or 8 inches and needed another bike, but it was money well spent, and I got at least half of my money back when I sold it a few years on. I don't think I would have done any better buying an entry level bike for $400 or so.