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New Bike - Canyon vs Trek vs Specialized vs Giant

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

New Bike - Canyon vs Trek vs Specialized vs Giant

Old 05-19-20, 10:23 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by justonwo
On my SRAM road brakes, if the throw of the lever is more than the adjustment can handle, I’ll remove the wheel and keep squeezing the levers until the pads almost touch. Then I use the SRAM spacing tool to spread them back out to the proper gap. This is straight out of the SRAM manual. I assume Shimano would be the same. You may have to spread the pads a bit more than the spacer spreads them if you have brake rub.
Shimano self-adjusts. Pushing the cylinders in and pumping them back out isn't going to change the spacing between the pads/rotor or the lever travel.
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Old 05-19-20, 10:24 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by hydrationnation
It's like this, but only on the left lever. The right lever is fine. 3:35 Mark.

Might be from the transport. The bike wasnt upside down here.
Yeah. Do the mini-bleed that I outlined previously.
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Old 05-19-20, 10:33 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
Shimano self-adjusts. Pushing the cylinders in and pumping them back out isn't going to change the spacing between the pads/rotor or the lever travel.
Supposedly, SRAM also self-adjust, but I haven’t found that to be the case.

I would also advise the OP to simply ride the bike and find out how much brake bite there is. It doesn’t take as much as you think.
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Old 05-19-20, 10:42 AM
  #79  
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Here’s a discussion of the same issue. Sounds like brake bleed fixed the issue for most, as WhyFi suggests.

https://www.trainerroad.com/forum/t/...stion/19904/23
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Old 05-19-20, 10:45 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by justonwo
Supposedly, SRAM also self-adjust, but I haven’t found that to be the case.
I guess I'll continue to stay away from SRAM.

Originally Posted by justonwo
I would also advise the OP to simply ride the bike and find out how much brake bite there is. It doesn’t take as much as you think.
He's comparing it directly to the other lever and it's not right/the same. Why would you live with that when it'll likely take two minutes and zero tools to fix it?
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Old 05-19-20, 10:56 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by hydrationnation
My bike arrived today.

YES, it came with "cage pedals". Thanks for mentioning that.

Assembly of the Canyon was quite easy.
Only went for a 4km ride, because it was raining.
Thanks to Canyon for the "cage pedals". They point me already into the SPD / SPDsl direction and away from the flats.

In the opposite of my wife's Trek Domane the Canyon makes no noises from the chain/cassette or the brakes so far.
And the Domane was assembeled by a trek shop. You think they know what they are doing. But when you go out for your first ride and nosies coming from the brake and the cassette, you are quite disappointed.
The only problem with the Canyon that I have so far, is that I have to pull the front disc lever (left lever) too far until it reacts. I am not sure how/if I can adjust it.
73 is the correct PSI for the Canyon Endurace, right?

I rode my wife's Trek Domane over the weekend and I see already some differences:
- the Domane has way more comfort from the iso speed and the ride is very steady; but it is a bit sluggish
- the Endurace is way more agile, it feels faster (not tested a sprint so far), but you feel every bump.
- the seat of the Domane is more comfortable than the Selle Italia seat on the Canyon (yes I need bike shorts/bibs immediately).
- Horns on the Endurace (105) are not as long as on the Domane (Tiagra).

Only picture so far. (still with the protection foil)
Nice bike, Gratz
In a 4km ride if seat is not comfortable, likely not positioned correctly, that's not my favorite seat either, then again no ride is good without comfortable bibs
imho, banding brake levers closed overnight is best way to achieve a solid feel,a simple rubber band, or such is easy method
This is a common practice in M/C racing too
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Old 05-19-20, 03:06 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
I guess I'll continue to stay away from SRAM.
Ok.

Originally Posted by WhyFi
He's comparing it directly to the other lever and it's not right/the same. Why would you live with that when it'll likely take two minutes and zero tools to fix it?
I don't think I said "live with it." I advised him to check the amount of brake bite, which is a very simple test. I also later advised him to follow your bubble removal instructions. Of course, then you would go to a brake bleed from there. Like you, I'm trying to give him some advice that will minimize the amount of headache he has getting the brakes to work.
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Old 05-19-20, 04:13 PM
  #83  
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Update:
- before my ride today(20km) , I tried WhyFi's "bubble removal method"... no change; I will try it again, I might have been to careful
- the Canyon is fast, nearly broke a short KOM (400m Sprint) (Garmin gave it to me; Strava said no no)
- I run into another problem that could be a frame size problem: I use the large toe clip pedals that came with the bike. When I turn the handlebar about 20 degrees (had that at a go at a traffic light), I hit the tire with the cage of the toe clip pedals; my size is 179cm with 84 inseam. canyon sizing for me: M boderline to S; I choose M
- I will call Canyon and see what they say about the problems; but my guess is when they pay for fixing the brake, I cant return the bike
- next purchases: Bibs, Jersey, Socks, Pedals/Shoes

btw, how much air you put in your bikes? I started with 73psi 700x28 Conti GP 5000

thanks guys for all your help.
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Old 05-19-20, 04:18 PM
  #84  
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I would just have a local shop deal with the brakes. It should be an easy fix. Canyon will likely pay for it.

Based on the geometry of some bikes, the clearance from the front wheel and your toe can be quite low. My Cervelo and Ultimate will both hit the toe of my shoes at times if I turn the wheel hard. They have a tight geometry. More relaxed geometry has less of an issue. If it's a real problem, you might just remove the cages.
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Old 05-19-20, 04:49 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by hydrationnation
Update:
- before my ride today(20km) , I tried WhyFi's "bubble removal method"... no change; I will try it again, I might have been to careful
- the Canyon is fast, nearly broke a short KOM (400m Sprint) (Garmin gave it to me; Strava said no no)
- I run into another problem that could be a frame size problem: I use the large toe clip pedals that came with the bike. When I turn the handlebar about 20 degrees (had that at a go at a traffic light), I hit the tire with the cage of the toe clip pedals; my size is 179cm with 84 inseam. canyon sizing for me: M boderline to S; I choose M
- I will call Canyon and see what they say about the problems; but my guess is when they pay for fixing the brake, I cant return the bike
- next purchases: Bibs, Jersey, Socks, Pedals/Shoes

btw, how much air you put in your bikes? I started with 73psi 700x28 Conti GP 5000

thanks guys for all your help.
Pedal strike is normal on a lot of bikes, learn not to do this
Don't see your weight listed, maybe try 65 psi or less with those 28c tires, I have run in the 50psi range on 28c
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Old 05-20-20, 01:02 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
Pedal strike is normal on a lot of bikes, learn not to do this
Don't see your weight listed, maybe try 65 psi or less with those 28c tires, I have run in the 50psi range on 28c
Not wanting to hijack but wow, am I doing tyre pressure totally wrong? I have 116 psi in mine...Granted not 28c but still, seems a huge difference.
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Old 05-20-20, 07:44 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
Don't see your weight listed, maybe try 65 psi or less with those 28c tires, I have run in the 50psi range on 28c
185lbs
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Old 05-20-20, 07:47 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
imho, banding brake levers closed overnight is best way to achieve a solid feel,a simple rubber band, or such is easy method
This is a common practice in M/C racing too
Would that fix the bubble in the break line?
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Old 05-20-20, 07:51 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by hydrationnation
Losing weight would be nice, but when I run/ride more I eat more
Ain't that the truth.
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Old 05-20-20, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ZHVelo
Not wanting to hijack but wow, am I doing tyre pressure totally wrong? I have 116 psi in mine...Granted not 28c but still, seems a huge difference.
Higher volume tires require less pressure, 116psi with a 23c tire is not the same as a 28c tire
Originally Posted by hydrationnation
185lbs
Should have some sidewall flex, there are tire pressure recommendation charts, but it really depends on road conditions, and how supple or firm a ride you like
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Old 05-20-20, 09:51 AM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
Higher volume tires require less pressure, 116psi with a 23c tire is not the same as a 28c tire

Should have some sidewall flex, there are tire pressure recommendation charts, but it really depends on road conditions, and how supple or firm a ride you like
It is a 25c one, not 23c.
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Old 05-20-20, 04:25 PM
  #92  
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Just came back from another 20km ride... yes I am still riding in my hybrid bike outfit...so still no bike shorts/bibs (very soon), jersey (soon) or gloves (very very very soon), but I already know that I made the right decision to get a road bike. It's just awesome. I have so much fun with it.
Got the bike in a flat sprint yesterday over 53km/h...for you guys that is nothing...for me it is huge, because that is my first road bike since I had one as a kid.
I compare myself to the riders on strava that are in our local bike groups and I see that my topspeed is not the problem, but I am lacking endurance (2-4km/h // 2miles/hr). That will come with time.
The question is now do I hold on to the Endurace or get something else.
The brake problem is still the same on the left lever.
Some noise from the rear derailer/cassette when I am in front in the big cog and in the 2 smallest cogs (rear)...2-10/2-11...
other than that the bike is perfect.
I have to make up my mind if I want to hold on to it, before I call Canyon about the problems.

Thanks for your help guys!!! I really appreciate it.
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Old 05-20-20, 04:30 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by hydrationnation
The question is now do I hold on to the Endurace or get something else.
The brake problem is still the same on the left lever.
Some noise from the rear derailer/cassette when I am in front in the big cog and in the 2 smallest cogs (rear)...2-10/2-11...
other than that the bike is perfect.
I have to make up my mind if I want to hold on to it, before I call Canyon about the problems.
These are all really minor problems. At this point, contact Caynon - they surely contract with someone local to address run of the mill set-up and warranty issues.

Ideally, you'd do a little searching online and figure out how to address these kinds of things yourself - they not that uncommon and being able to quickly remedy them can save you money and downtime. I don't think that everybody needs to know how to completely tear down and build up their bike, but having a basic understanding of how these things work is really handy, 'specially if you're going to be doing longer rides and will be self-reliant. Most of the stuff makes sense once you jump in to it.
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Old 05-20-20, 04:30 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by hydrationnation
Update:
- before my ride today(20km) , I tried WhyFi's "bubble removal method"... no change; I will try it again, I might have been to careful
- the Canyon is fast, nearly broke a short KOM (400m Sprint) (Garmin gave it to me; Strava said no no)
- I run into another problem that could be a frame size problem: I use the large toe clip pedals that came with the bike. When I turn the handlebar about 20 degrees (had that at a go at a traffic light), I hit the tire with the cage of the toe clip pedals; my size is 179cm with 84 inseam. canyon sizing for me: M boderline to S; I choose M
- I will call Canyon and see what they say about the problems; but my guess is when they pay for fixing the brake, I cant return the bike
- next purchases: Bibs, Jersey, Socks, Pedals/Shoes

btw, how much air you put in your bikes? I started with 73psi 700x28 Conti GP 5000

thanks guys for all your help.
A smaller frame would have more toe overlap, not less, and it's the last reason you should think about an M/L. Just don't do it. For almost all cases, you will never encounter it while actually riding.
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Old 05-20-20, 06:16 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by WhyFi
These are all really minor problems. At this point, contact Caynon - they surely contract with someone local to address run of the mill set-up and warranty issues.

Ideally, you'd do a little searching online and figure out how to address these kinds of things yourself - they not that uncommon and being able to quickly remedy them can save you money and downtime. I don't think that everybody needs to know how to completely tear down and build up their bike, but having a basic understanding of how these things work is really handy, 'specially if you're going to be doing longer rides and will be self-reliant. Most of the stuff makes sense once you jump in to it.
Exactly this. These are minor problems that can be fixed. Canyon will reimburse a shop to fix them. Someone competent should be able to address both things you describe, but it’s definitely valuable to do this stuff yourself.
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Old 05-20-20, 06:28 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
A smaller frame would have more toe overlap, not less, and it's the last reason you should think about an M/L. Just don't do it. For almost all cases, you will never encounter it while actually riding.
Yes, exactly. This almost never happens on the road.
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Old 05-21-20, 10:42 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by hydrationnation
Thanks for the input.
Just ordered the Canyon Endurace with 105.
I checked with Canyon. They have still the same return policy.
Nice bike. Congratulations. I considered that one when I recently bought my Scott but went with Scott because I could test ride it. That was important to me for my first road bike.
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Old 05-23-20, 07:25 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by hydrationnation
I need help to find my first road bike.

I am riding a Hybrid at the moment and I am doing about 120km/wk.

Now I am looking for my first road bike. I dont want to spend over $2500.

Riding type: casual, some speed, maybe triathlon/duathlon in the future. Road, Sidewalks, no gravel. Road quality is decent. Losing weight would be nice, but when I run/ride more I eat more


I tested some bikes and I narrowed my search to these:

- Canyon Endurace CF SL 7.0 (105) // no test ride possible.

- Trek Domane SL4 (Tiagra) // going 105 is not working on the budget

- Giant Adv Defy 3 (Tiagra) // going 105 is not working on the budget

- Specialized Roubaix (Tiagra) // going 105 is not working on the budget


Lets say all the bikes are the same price. I have local bike shops that carry the Specialized, Giant and Trek. So service for the Specialized, Giant and Trek is not a problem.

-What bike would you buy from that list? And why...

-Because I never had clipless pedals before, I want to stay with flats for the first months. What are good flat pedals for these bikes? Would shimano PD-EH500 be a good option?

-Is the difference between 105 and Tiagra really that big that I have to go with the direct seller vs the shops?


Thanks for your help!!!

The Edurance is so close geometry wise to a Ultimate that calling it an Edurance bike is kind of misleading IMO. Personally it's the best bang for your buck bike but with a name unlike a Bikes Direct. If you go beyond just casual leisurely rides the jump to 105 will be 100% beneficial since its the bets bang for your buck group set out there and if you wanted to upgrade from Tiagra it would be more money and hassle.

If you are looking at more race oriented bikes the CAAD 13 105 DISC at $2100 is a fantastic deal and you can buy them online without tax and have a shop assemble it or do it yourself. Same with the Supersix Evo Carbon Disc 105 which is $2750 and $250 above budget. If you are looking for more endurance finding sales on a Felt VR or Cannondale Synapse are great bikes that can be had at $2K or less.

Also the resale of Canyon is actually really good. The biggest problem with Canyon is that they don't have an inflated MSRP but they don't carry a ton of stock so demand for these bikes is always high. It would surprise me if the bike you looked at in the size and color is gone tomorrow and it's another 4 months or even no ETA
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Old 05-25-20, 05:51 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Jrasero
The Edurance is so close geometry wise to a Ultimate that calling it an Edurance bike is kind of misleading IMO. Personally it's the best bang for your buck bike but with a name unlike a Bikes Direct. If you go beyond just casual leisurely rides the jump to 105 will be 100% beneficial since its the bets bang for your buck group set out there and if you wanted to upgrade from Tiagra it would be more money and hassle.

If you are looking at more race oriented bikes the CAAD 13 105 DISC at $2100 is a fantastic deal and you can buy them online without tax and have a shop assemble it or do it yourself. Same with the Supersix Evo Carbon Disc 105 which is $2750 and $250 above budget. If you are looking for more endurance finding sales on a Felt VR or Cannondale Synapse are great bikes that can be had at $2K or less.

Also the resale of Canyon is actually really good. The biggest problem with Canyon is that they don't have an inflated MSRP but they don't carry a ton of stock so demand for these bikes is always high. It would surprise me if the bike you looked at in the size and color is gone tomorrow and it's another 4 months or even no ETA
In a German review site, a lot of people are currently trashing Canyon. 2020 has already more 1 star reviews than 2019 all together, and by the looks of it, it's mostly to do with late deliveries and bad communication. Which is not really surprising, given how many people are buying bikes right now.
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Old 05-25-20, 08:39 AM
  #100  
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Canyon’s customer service is overwhelmed right now. When I bought my bike, they were just starting to get hammered. They’re slow to respond and sometimes don’t respond. They weren’t expecting this huge influx of purchases and weren’t prepared for the increased customer service demands. I don’t think anyone can fault them for that. I have found that calling them is much faster and more efficient.
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