AnkleWork

Re calibration: One can't tell if a digital display load cell is reasonably accurate or functional just by inspection. History records many failures due to lack of calibration or traceability. Good luck, kids.

WheresWaldo

From all my wheel-building history, and using the tools to make them, all that is needed is a reasonable assumption of accuracy. So if you don't like the design, or think that the numbers it produces are wildly inaccurate, then design your own tool. No one that I know of builds wheel to an absolute specific value. Repeatable results with reasonably accurate tensions are what is important. All this talk about how accurate or how to re-calibrate is picking a gnats balls. As has already been shown, several other people have and use a similarly designed tool. None of them appear to have issues with their use.

AnkleWork

Delicious irony.

Hoopdriver

Nor, apparently, can you explain what you meant in your post.

I queried Google to ask what you meant. Google was confused too.

Nessism

I think that accuracy of the crane scale is a valid concern. I'm not overly familiar with how those inexpensive digital scales operate but calibration drift may be real. On the other hand, if they use something like a strain gauge then I suspect they will hold calibration very well. Devil's in the details like is so often the case. I've personally got a handful of fairly high end tools such as torque wrenches and a mechanical push/pull gauge that were previously calibrated, but the recall date is long past. I wouldn't hesitate to use these tools though and I'm confident they are fine. We are talking about home use not building parts that will go on an airplane. Some people worry too much.

WheresWaldo

@Nessism The scales are made with a simple single strain gauge. Some more advanced ones will use a load cell which is basically a bigger version of the strain gauge. This particular one went to my nephew and he is going to use it to get better results on Sapim CX-Rays. I have a second version I am currently building for myself. It uses a bigger load cell and digital indicator, I can use my calibration weight set to make sure it is close. I say close because it is a hobby weight set, CLASS 6. So each weight can be many milligrams off (IIRC 0.1% is CLASS 6).

peanstein

I cannot reply with your pic of post #10 as I am a newbie to the site.

[/QUOTE]
Thanks for taking thee time to share your process and nice build!
I was wondering what you used to hold the nipple to the yellow Hoo-Ya?
Those 2 pieces are all I have left for my BOM and wanted to see if you can let me know their technical term given at birth.

Posts like this are pretty awesome for DIY'ers like myself.
Helping one another goes a long way in terms of personal satisfaction.


Thanks!

Victor

peanstein

Ah, now that I zoomed in again for the thirs time I think you threaded the acorn not to match the spoke thread? Or perhaps bored it and attached a nipple to the other end?

What does the yellow thing at end of spoke for?
How about the wheel at the end? I may have missed that in your build sheet and was wondering what/where that was ordered from.

THanks,
Victor