ISO and for trade thread part 5
#6476
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ISO, Either side that would make a matched pair
I have a set of Raleigh marked SR crank arms BUT one is 165, NDS, and the other, DS, is 170mm. The DS is a 144BCD, but I will take a 165 mm DS that is 130bcd with the same style chainring arms.
I have a set of Raleigh marked SR crank arms BUT one is 165, NDS, and the other, DS, is 170mm. The DS is a 144BCD, but I will take a 165 mm DS that is 130bcd with the same style chainring arms.
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Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
Cambodia bikes, Bridgestone SRAM 2 speed, 2012 Fuji Stratos...
#6477
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I'm looking for French threaded (14x1.25) spindles for Lyotard 460D pedals. Can trade for 9/16 ones or Lyotard Berthet Pedals (9/16) or SR SP-100BL (14x1.25). Have also other stuff to trade.
Basically I have French Stronglight / Spidel 105 crankset and I don't want to tap t to 9/16 (also, have only metric taps anyway). Would also be happy to buy Atom / Maillard / Spidel 700 or pedals. Don't have to be perfect, rider quality. I am watching auctions with some, but trade is always preferable
Basically I have French Stronglight / Spidel 105 crankset and I don't want to tap t to 9/16 (also, have only metric taps anyway). Would also be happy to buy Atom / Maillard / Spidel 700 or pedals. Don't have to be perfect, rider quality. I am watching auctions with some, but trade is always preferable
#6478
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Just so you know:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...al-danger.html
and in re Atoms -
They use a larger thread at the outboard end - this means the edges of the cone races are so thin that a section at the lip will break off (the root of the thread comes too close to the outer surface).
This section is often large enough that it covers some of the actual ball-track, and so the cone is useless; if not, you are fortunate if the broken bit has not damaged the cup or cone some other way.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...al-danger.html
and in re Atoms -
They use a larger thread at the outboard end - this means the edges of the cone races are so thin that a section at the lip will break off (the root of the thread comes too close to the outer surface).
This section is often large enough that it covers some of the actual ball-track, and so the cone is useless; if not, you are fortunate if the broken bit has not damaged the cup or cone some other way.
Last edited by oneclick; 04-21-24 at 02:55 AM.
#6479
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Just so you know:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...al-danger.html
and in re Atoms -
They use a larger thread at the outboard end - this means the edges of the cone races are so thin that a section at the lip will break off (the root of the thread comes too close to the outer surface).
This section is often large enough that it covers some of the actual ball-track, and so the cone is useless; if not, you are fortunate if the broken bit has not damaged the cup or cone some other way.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...al-danger.html
and in re Atoms -
They use a larger thread at the outboard end - this means the edges of the cone races are so thin that a section at the lip will break off (the root of the thread comes too close to the outer surface).
This section is often large enough that it covers some of the actual ball-track, and so the cone is useless; if not, you are fortunate if the broken bit has not damaged the cup or cone some other way.
Looks like I found someone interested in swapping Lyotard Berthet axles though. These are shorter than ones in 460D and probably safer
#6480
Newbie
Available: Shimano 105 cranks, chain ring, rim brakes
Does anyone want - Shimano 105 brake set, crank/chainring, front mech, rear mech - for rebuilding an old bike??? And is this the right forum? Took the pieces off an old broken carbon fibre frame and have no use for the components. Seems a waste to junk them into landfill.
- Front and rear mech. Shimano 105
Cranks. Shimano FC-1055
Chainring. (I think I have cassette too somewhere.)
- Front and rear rim brakes, and handgrips. Shimano SLR-S (? or SLR-5?)
I’m in Melbourne, Australia.
- Front and rear mech. Shimano 105
Cranks. Shimano FC-1055
Chainring. (I think I have cassette too somewhere.)
- Front and rear rim brakes, and handgrips. Shimano SLR-S (? or SLR-5?)
I’m in Melbourne, Australia.
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#6481
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ISO: Small parts for a Nuovo Record RD. Not sure what to call it...metal bushing? It is part 812/A and the small stop screw, part 812/1A shown in the diagram below. It is the piece with exterior grooves that fits between the main body and the pulley cage.
The derailleur on my commuter unexpectedly exploded recently while on my way to work. Lacking the necessary tools, I started walking the rest of the way uphill when a good Samaritan offered me a ride the rest of the way. I suspect this part fell off in his car since I searched for this part on the side of the road later without success. The rest of the RD is okay (and I made it to work on time) but it's missing this essential part.
Have lots of items to trade.
The derailleur on my commuter unexpectedly exploded recently while on my way to work. Lacking the necessary tools, I started walking the rest of the way uphill when a good Samaritan offered me a ride the rest of the way. I suspect this part fell off in his car since I searched for this part on the side of the road later without success. The rest of the RD is okay (and I made it to work on time) but it's missing this essential part.
Have lots of items to trade.
Last edited by gaucho777; 04-23-24 at 09:32 PM.
#6482
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ISO: Small parts for a Nuovo Record RD. Not sure what to call it...metal bushing? It is part 812/A and the small stop screw, part 812/1A shown in the diagram below. It is the piece with exterior grooves that fits between the main body and the pulley cage.
The derailleur on my commuter unexpectedly exploded recently while on my way to work. Lacking the necessary tools, I started walking the rest of the way uphill when a good Samaritan offered me a ride the rest of the way. I suspect this part fell off in his car since I searched for this part on the side of the road later without success. The rest of the RD is okay (and I made it to work on time) but it's missing this essential part.
Have lots of items to trade.
The derailleur on my commuter unexpectedly exploded recently while on my way to work. Lacking the necessary tools, I started walking the rest of the way uphill when a good Samaritan offered me a ride the rest of the way. I suspect this part fell off in his car since I searched for this part on the side of the road later without success. The rest of the RD is okay (and I made it to work on time) but it's missing this essential part.
Have lots of items to trade.
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#6483
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#6484
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For my Monti Special I bought cleaned up/refurbished MAFAC RAIDs with posts and these rings from Amir in Israel (you might know him from CR).
When the time came to cut the posts to fit my fork we cut the first one on Doug's milling machine, then had to decide how to orient the second post in the mill without disturbing the its (manually adjusted) setup, keeping in mind that we needed the spring hole in the correct position. We're looking at things scratching our heads about which way the post should be rotated in the fixture. I came up with my idea and said something like, "Orient it this way, then it rotates and plops into position just so on the fork blade. Easy peasy." Doug says, "I don't know..." I say, "Trust me. This'll work." We make the cut, and... the flat in the D-ring was 180° out of position.
I ordered posts from René Herse with their circular spring rings. Much easier, takes any visual dyslexia out of the process. You just point the spring hole where you want it to go, then fire up the torch.
#6485
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This is an extra. Steal parts from this or use yours for parts.
#6486
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gaucho777 ,
The grub bolt is not likely to be found unless someone has one in a damaged RD. Here in the shop I wind up fabricating one from SS 1/4" stock and hand milling to size and then tapping to 4X.7 thread, then finishing the piece by putting the adjustor slot in the end. A bit time consuming but the only way to get the proper grub screw. Part 812/1a.
The chrome housing part 812 is available, but you should inspect the threads on the retaining bolt part 811a and the threads on the cage body part 814a. The nut in the cage body can be replaced if damaged but is normally pressed in place.
I have the parts here to do the repair, if no one else has them. Lemme know. Smiles, MH
The grub bolt is not likely to be found unless someone has one in a damaged RD. Here in the shop I wind up fabricating one from SS 1/4" stock and hand milling to size and then tapping to 4X.7 thread, then finishing the piece by putting the adjustor slot in the end. A bit time consuming but the only way to get the proper grub screw. Part 812/1a.
The chrome housing part 812 is available, but you should inspect the threads on the retaining bolt part 811a and the threads on the cage body part 814a. The nut in the cage body can be replaced if damaged but is normally pressed in place.
I have the parts here to do the repair, if no one else has them. Lemme know. Smiles, MH
#6487
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I think between @curbtender and @Mad Honk you should be covered, but in case not I checked my damaged patent-74 NR RD and tho there's a good condition part 812/A (with good threads, I checked them) the 812/1A screw is gone. One of the few parts that went, but if it turns out you need the one I got, this is definitely off a RD that's not ever going to be used for anything but spare parts
#6488
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Curbtender, thanks for the offer! If you're willing, I would like to raid your mech for those 812/A and 812/1A parts I'm missing and leave the rest of the main body, cage, and pulleys for your future needs. Since you are local, I could come meet you when/wherever is convenient. I'll drop you a PM...
I did try to put mine back together and, surprisingly, everything else is in working order, and the threads don't appear damaged. It worked just fine...until it didn't! I'm still surprised that it came apart so suddenly and dramatically.
@Mad Hank and @unworthy1 thank you both for your kind offers and assistance as well.
I did try to put mine back together and, surprisingly, everything else is in working order, and the threads don't appear damaged. It worked just fine...until it didn't! I'm still surprised that it came apart so suddenly and dramatically.
@Mad Hank and @unworthy1 thank you both for your kind offers and assistance as well.
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-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
#6489
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My Fuji The Finest has a short, narrow cockpit, an early, I think, Nitto Dynamic stem and Nitto Universiade 105 handlebars. The stem is 7cm as Nitto measures them, 7.5cm in Cinelli units. The distance from the front edge of the saddle to the handlebar is ~49cm, pretty short for a 62-ish cm frame. On my other bikes that dimension is between 51cm and 54cm. The handlebar is similarly narrow for such a large frame, 37cm at the hooks and ends. Most of what I ride is 40-42cm. I'm looking for the same stem a bit longer (9-10cm?) and the same handlebar a bit wider (40-42cm?). Happy to swap these examples, or have other parts or $$ to trade.
Last edited by smontanaro; 04-27-24 at 07:34 AM.
#6490
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My Fuji The Finest has a short, narrow cockpit, an early, I think, Nitto Dynamic stem and Nitto Universiade 105 handlebars. The stem is 7cm as Nitto measures them, 7.5cm in Cinelli units. The distance from the front edge of the saddle to the handlebar is ~49cm, pretty short for a 62-ish cm frame. On my other bikes that dimension is between 51cm and 54cm. The handlebar is similarly narrow for such a large frame, 37cm at the hooks and ends. Most of what I ride is 40-42cm. I'm looking for the same stem a bit longer (9-10cm?) and the same handlebar a bit wider (40-42cm?). Happy to swap these examples, or have other parts or $$ to trade.
#6491
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smontanaro ,
Hey Skip feller, you wanna see something cool? Check this out:
This set of take-offs that are laying on the work shelf. They got the flare ends like your current bars.
And they are too wide for me to ride, probably why they are on the bench.
And I am about to dismantle the Ochsner that was for the franken bike build thread. The pool noodle bar wrap will come off and this high polish SR stem will be added to my stash. However, it seems to be the required 10cm you are after.
So as always, Lemme Know. Smiles, MH
Hey Skip feller, you wanna see something cool? Check this out:
This set of take-offs that are laying on the work shelf. They got the flare ends like your current bars.
And they are too wide for me to ride, probably why they are on the bench.
And I am about to dismantle the Ochsner that was for the franken bike build thread. The pool noodle bar wrap will come off and this high polish SR stem will be added to my stash. However, it seems to be the required 10cm you are after.
So as always, Lemme Know. Smiles, MH