T-Mar

Sounds like a 1988 model. You do not mention the model of crankarm. It will probably hard to find an exact replacement, however this is not necessary. All you need is to get one of the correct length. The most common lengths are 170, 172.5 and 175mm. I'm assuming the number inside the dished circle is the length and it is 175mm. Most LBS (Local bicycle shop) should have one in stock or they can order it for you. Take the bicycle or old arm with you, so that you can pick the closest match from their stock.

nlerner

T-Mar, thanks for that info. I know you said you don't have the specs for the Touring Series III, but in your estimation would the Sugino RT triple crankset have been original equipment?

Neal

T-Mar

It is possible that the RT was OEM, as it was definitely available in 1984 and 1985. It shows up on some other touring bicycles by Centurion and Maruishi. I have the 1984 specs and the Touring Series III, IV and V all spec the Sugino AT, however the III is the lowest of the three models and the RT was a lower crankset than the AT, so it is possible that the Touring Series III was downgraded to an RT for 1985.

Also, despite the statements on Vintage-Trek, it is possible that the CG code actully represents 1983-July, as opposed to March-1987. If you look at all the other formats of Sugino date codes, you will notice that they all have the year code followed by the month code. Vintage-Trek's observations are based on very few cases of anecdotal evidence and while Sugino could have reversed the codes, it does not make sense, as it would have caused confusion among factory personnel.

snappy

damn! you just beat me.

RFC

1987 Team Fuji TT SN# FA700675

Hi Tmar. You have already seen this bike and identified it as a 1987. I thought I'd post the pic just for continuity.

Thanks

RFC

Chuckster

My Fuji - The Ace, was found on your 76 Fuji catalog link. The first FUJI bike to offer the Dura Ace groupo and I believe the first bike period, to offer Dura Ace groupo according to FUJI's web site.
I have the 24" frame.

Thanks again for a GREAT post. Happy - Happy - Joy - joy!

Chuckster

T-Mar

The claim of the Ace being the first Dura-Ace equipped bicycle is, at best, a shared distinction. The Ace came out in 1974, but so did other Dura-Ace bicycles such as the Miyata MX-P and Sekine SHX. The Ace was little changed during the 1974-1976 period, so I was wondering if you would mind submitting the serial number, so I can determine the exact year and enter it into my database? TIA.

Chuckster

I took some quick shots to get you some more info- Thanks again for everything!!

Chuckster

Chuckster

T-Mar,

OK, I'm stumped? The serial number looks like K9E16132 on my Fuji-The Ace. But the first letter "K" or "H" (not sure) isn't an "F" for Fuji? The formated serial numbers looks early 70's except for the start letter. What do you think?

Thanks Again!!!

Chuckster

T-Mar

The serial number format is early 1970s, indicating a May 1974 manufacturing date. This is corroborated by the fact that we know the Ace was only produced during the periof 1974-1976. The leading character is probably a K. If you go back to post#1, you will see that in the period 1980-1987 there were several different facilities manufacturing Fuji, including one identified by a K. It seems that this also occured in the early 1970s but that my samples, at that time, did not include one. My explanation of the early 1970s codes includes a bit of a disclaimer for this character, "all cases to date being F, presumibly indicating Fuji." We simply now have some cases, other than F, and I have to update post #1.

Chuckster

T-Mar, heres the Fuji web site reference on Dura Ace...

1974
Fuji emerges ahead of its time as the first to introduce the, now legendary, Shimano Dura Ace component group on a production bike.

beeper387

2 more fujis to add to the list:
I just bought on Craigslist from the original owner an S12-S 18 speed 58cm complete bike but not a LTD.
Serial # FL005480 (DEC 1980) probably a 1981 model. Fuji-sugino cranks 170 mm (j-11,j-12 date code Nov and Dec 1980).Sugino triple 53-44-36 chainwheels. Freewheel Suntour 6 reg 14-30.Suntour NSLFD,Fuji-VX RD. Dia-Compe G sidepull brakes,Suntour Power downtube shifters.Brazed brake cable holders on top tube. 36H Ukai 27x1 1/4 wheels,Schrader tubes, 27x1 1/8 tires,Bike was COMPLETELY disassembled (except spokes) and ALL bearings repacked with Park grease. Wheels are good and I tweaked them a bit.No rust and minor paint chips. Decals are very good.441 chrome moly steel tubing. I haven't had it on the road yet,Boston,Ma weather
My Fuji America Touring Bike 18 sp 58cm that I bought new in 1979-80 serial #79C02014 (March 1979?). I think this was the first year for the 18 sp America? All components date between 11-77 and 3-79. Originally 18 sp 53-44-36 X14-30 regina freewheel(same as S12-S above), now 21sp with 7 sp Shimano maxy freewheel 14-34 and Sram PC58 chain as recommended by Sheldon Brown (RIP). The change made the bike quieter, smoother and better shifting then ever.Closer spread in the first Six 14-24 and shifts beautifully into the 34. I may change the inner front chainring to a 34T.Wheels are 36H Ukai 700c presta tubes,Hutchinson 28MM carbon black tires with blue double stripe sidewalls that match the light blue on the head and seat tube. The frame is mostly dark blue with chrome chain stays and dropouts and chrome fork ends. The frame may be all chrome under the paint. The brakes were upgraded to Grand Compe 400 side pull when I bought the bike and recently got Koolstop salmon Continental front pads. Thanks Sheldon . Cranks are Sugino Mighty Tour 171 mm, Mks118 pedal with Minoura LL toe clips and black leather Fujita straps. the wheels have Sunshine Gyromaster hubs with cartridge bearings.Deraillers are Suntour Cyclone. Handlebar is Fuji Nitto Olympiade 115,stem is Technomic, seatpost is Sugino Mighty.Shift levers are Suntour Barcons with the shift cables under the black foam Grabon handlebar covers and black grips on the Gran Compe brake levers The spokes are original double butted steel probably 15/14? The rear dropouts are chrome Suntour GS with adjustable centering screws.The bike has the original Blackburn rear pannier in aluminum and the original Zefal hp all metal pump, a few scars but works fine and gets used! Seat tube mounted.
I bought the S12-S because the man who sold it to me said it was to big for him and when he didn't know the frame size I asked him his height and he said 5'6". The bike was advertised as an 18 speed Fuji and I was hoping to find a smaller framed America for local stop and go in town riding.It turns out to be 58cm, the same as my America but no toe clips. I'm 5'9'+ and my America is a little tall around town but wonderful on the open road.He didn't look long legged for his height so I don't know how he could ride it. Back in 70-80s shops sold frame sizes that are tall by todays standards. They didn't want long seatposts. But I think the shop really suckered a 5'6" guy on a 58 CM frame.Stand over height around 33".I might look to sell or trade the S12-S.

Dwaine Alberts

T-MAR,

Picked up this basic of basics of an Fuji Built for America. Here are some pics and info on the bike. Let me know if this can add to your database. Bike is Powder blue and not that exciting to look at. Is fairly clean and looks to be still maintaining much of its original parts. I am guessing mid 80ish or so based on the parts stamping etc. Anyway here is one that is labeled Fuji built exclusively for America.

Thanks
Dwaine

Rear Derailer
Suntour 7
Backside stamped
VIA CI Maeda IND. Japan

Front derailer
Suntour
Backside stamped
VIA DA Japan

Sprocket stamped housing
F7026564

Front Wheel 27 x 1 1/8 vervia
Hubs
Label Sealed tech
Stamped SR KK K88

Rear Wheel 27 x 1 1/8 vervia
Hubs
Label Sealed tech
Stamped SR KK K86

Pedals
Stamped VP-378 A-87
Metal shoe harness
Stamped Christope Special X

De Compe Brakes
No dates

Suntour neck mounted metal shifter levers
No dates

Fuji Seat
No dates

Dwaine Alberts

correction,

one rim is L 86 the other is K 88.

Sorry
Dwaine

Dwaine Alberts

also a few extra pics.

Dwaine

Pompiere

The weather finally got decent enough to get pictures. I posted the description of bike previously. Club Fuji, SN F3126514. 1989 based on components with late 1988 date codes.

MarkE

T-Mar, I picked up a 52cm (my size!), 1980 (based on SN and component codes) Fuji Royal in geat shape from a thrift store last month you can add to your database. Beautiful navy bue color. It had been partially converted to a single speed so the deraileurs are missing, but I think everything else (except the tires, saddle and pedals) are OE:
SN: KE000389
Fuji chromoly 441 tubes
chromed fork ends (marked ISR???nd on drops)
Madea Suntour Perfect 6 cog set 30-25-22-19-16-14
Sugio 42-52 chainrings
Fuji Forged 170 cranks (marked J-4)
dia-compe centerpull brakes (marked 0880)
Nitto alloy stem and Olympiad alloy bars (interestingly, these have been chopped and flipped, creating something like stubby time trial bars. Me LIKE!)
26.6 alloy seatpost
Ukai 27x11/4 alloy rims

OK, I've got good pics, but - being a newbie - I haven't figure out how to add them. Nothing happens when I click on Manage Attachments under Attach Files. Help?

wmsiniowa

My Fuji frame is on eBay. Fuji Gran Tourer SE Lugged Steel Frame Fixed Fixie - 280209890294

Thanks,
wmsiniowa

mcmahon

Now that the snow and ice is starting to melt, I picked up a set of Planet Bike fenders for the 1980 Royale. The clearance of the touring frame makes it an ideal candidate for fenders AND 27 x 1 3/8 knobbies. But the supplied bolts are too small for the dropout eyelets; they pass right through.
Now I wouldn't have been as surprised to find this on an obscure italian frame or some such thing, but on a production japanese frame from the eighties??? Has the standard thread size for eyelets changed over the years?
Before I roll my bike into the metric bolt section of Home Depot and start test fitting, I thought I'd throw out this bit of trivia and see what our experts say: What is the thread size for the fender eyelets on a 1980 Fuji Royale?

geekrunner

Hi all! This site has saved a Sagres from certain doom! I had originally intended to strip this bike and use the wheels and brakes on another frame, but now I will tweak it to make it the road bike I want it to be! Here's link to my introduction:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...10#post6387610

I'll get pictures of it soon and compile list of the pieces parts. I'd be very interested to know when it was made! I've owned it for about 14 years and never knew much about it.

Happy Easter to all! geek

T-Mar

Most vintage, forged dropouts use 5mm x 0.8mm threading. The known exception is Huret, which used untapped, 4mm holes. Stamped dropouts could be anything and there is also the possibility that the previous owner retapped the dropouts to accept an larger, and possibly Imperial, bolt. Check the theads with a magnifying glass. If they are bare metal, the latter almost certainly took place.

Happy Easter to you too, and thank-you for posting. The Sagres was a mid-1980s model (the database has samples from 1984-1987) but if you check the frame serial number against the info in post #1 of this thread, you should be able to nail the exact year. Rememeber, if the month indicator is from September to Decemeber, the bicycle actually represents the following model year.

reverborama

I had the same problem on my wife's '82 Supreme (and on my '76 Nishiki). I just used nuts on the other side. You never find this sort of thing out until you are half-way into the installation and can't stop! I'll have to look for some like in the size T-Mar mentions to clean up the appearance.

mcmahon

Rear dropouts are stamped, with paint on the threads. The fork eyelets are the same size, and they're under chrome, so it seems unlikely these aren't original. I tried a 6mm brake bolt, and that fit, so that solves that problem. But it seems odd that Fuji would differ from the norm in this regard.

geekrunner

Sorry no pics yet, but I got some info on the parts:

Maroon/Burgundy Sagres, VaLite lugged frame, # FK600643 (mfg 11/86 so 87 model year)
Sugino 5P-KC seat post
Fuji Viscount seat
Sugino VP double crankset 170mm (drilled for triple) 52/42 110/74 BCD
Suntour Alpha 5000 front and rear derailleur (small greek letter alpha before the 5000)
Ukai 27 x 1 1/8 rims, unknown hubs, six speed Suntour freewheel
Stem is black, has Will or Win on it, and is 22.2mm quill
(guessing) Dia Compe hooded aero brake levers
Suntour 6 speed indexed downtube shifter and friction front shifter
Dia Compe N500 side pull brakes
UPDATED: Fuji cup and cone sqare taper 118mm spindle bottom bracket

I have the wheels and brakes off of it right now, and will post pics as soon as I can, hopefully tomorrow.

geek

T-Mar

It's not that odd. Remember, M5 threads are standard only for forged dropouts. Due to the more complex (and expensive) manufacturing involved with forging, initially there were only a handful of manufacturers and a defacto standard evolved by the others copying the leader. In the case of stamped dropouts, the technology is much simpler. As a result, most the larger companies could afford to develop their own tooling for these dropouts and there would be much more chance for different standards to evolve.

A quick look at my stable indicates all 8 bicycles with forged dropouts use M5 theads. Of the 4 bicycles with stamped dropouts, 2 use M5 threads, 1 uses M6 and 1 has untapped clearance holes for M5 bolts. A quick look though some the old bicycles at LBS indicate a mix of the above and I even came across one with M5 in the rear and M6 up front! I suspect that if I continued my investagation, that I would come across some older, Imperial standards too.

The examples of M5 clearance holes were found primarily on the inexpensive, boom era models and it got me to thinking how M6 may have evolved. Since economy is a big factor on the entry bicycles with stamped dropouts, it would make common sense to save a few pennies by eliminating the tapping operation. The eyelet holes would therefore be designed to provide clearance for an M5 bolt, which was the standard for fender mounting. These holes could be punched as part of the dropout stamping operation (more expesive tooling but cheaper in the long run) or drilled as as separate operation (cheaper tooling, but more expensive in the long run).

After the boom, as the sales dropped off, companies started adding value to the low end models and one way to do this was by providing tapped eyelets. The evolution to six speed freewheels with tighter spacing between the small cog and dropout would also prompt a move to tapped eyelets, as the chain would be more liable to hang up the nut required for an untapped hole. The companies would be looking for the cheapest way to provide tapped eyelets. If the eyelets were punched as part of the dropout stamping, they could get by with not changing the tooling and simply tapping the M5 clearance hole to M6. For companies that drilled the eyelet holes, it was just as easy and cheap to change the tap drill size and produce an M5 tapped hole. Asa result both M5 and M6 tapped eyelets would exist on stamped dropouts.

Being one the larger companies, it is more likely that Fuji had the money to create their own tooling for dropout stamping and that they incorpated the eyelet punching into the tooling, as this would be cheaper in the long run. Consequently, the dropouts may have be intially produced for M5 clearance holes and have simply been adapted by tapping the existing M5 clearance holes to the next larger size, which would be M6. Of course, this is all speculation based on hindsight and a bit of reverse engineering.