What cool old classic bike did you work on today?
#1
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What cool old classic bike did you work on today?
What super sweet bike came across your bike stand today?
I own a small bike shop in Mt Shasta, CA and today a couple of beauts came in for service. The first is a quite old Miyata Ridge Runner and the second a Murray Wildcat.
The Miyata is getting new shifters (6 speed index, super low end shimano thumb levers), I tried to talk them out of it and explained with a little adjustment they would be great. Then even suggested he bring his bike out to the Vintage MTB show we are putting on in a few weeks. Alas, he just couldn't keep the friction shifters any longer, complaining about the difficulty and slipping to a harder gear randomly, and something about his knees I believe, oh well can't win them all.
Vintage Miyata Ridge Runner MTB
The Murray is a little better outcome. It's just in to replace the shifter cable and a couple of spokes. I'll dig through a new old stock supply of spokes and try to match the brand and cut/thread if needed to keep the continuity.
Vintage Murray 3 Speed Wildcat
I own a small bike shop in Mt Shasta, CA and today a couple of beauts came in for service. The first is a quite old Miyata Ridge Runner and the second a Murray Wildcat.
The Miyata is getting new shifters (6 speed index, super low end shimano thumb levers), I tried to talk them out of it and explained with a little adjustment they would be great. Then even suggested he bring his bike out to the Vintage MTB show we are putting on in a few weeks. Alas, he just couldn't keep the friction shifters any longer, complaining about the difficulty and slipping to a harder gear randomly, and something about his knees I believe, oh well can't win them all.
Vintage Miyata Ridge Runner MTB
The Murray is a little better outcome. It's just in to replace the shifter cable and a couple of spokes. I'll dig through a new old stock supply of spokes and try to match the brand and cut/thread if needed to keep the continuity.
Vintage Murray 3 Speed Wildcat
#2
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Finally the paint cured so I could work on a '82 Panosonic DX4000. Bought it at a junk dealer. It was sprayed black and most of the group replaced with junk. (A steel rivited triple!) Ugh! I realized the stem is a mile to long for the frame too today. It's coming along but at this point the profit motive ship has sailed. Still, I love bringing this one back.
#4
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Been trying to figure out the Simplex derailleur on my '78 PR10. Recently the chain is dragging between the big gear and jockey wheel. The derailleur is leaning forward at a different angle than most other Simplex that I see. I have a long cage Simplex that I'm thinking of trying, except it has a mounting claw attached, and this one is direct mount. Not sure if I can remove the claw and just bolt it on, or if it will screw up the pivot spring. Sure wish these had b-screws. I'm afraid the pivot spring in this one has given up. There is some tension, but the derailleur is pointing so far forward that the chain wrap at the cage is wierd looking. It also has difficulty shifting up the freewheel, getting hung between the big and 2nd gear down. The lowest gear I run is a 40t front, 28t rear.
Yeah, I know, it needs a new cable too.
My bike on the left. I also want to raise the brake levers a smidge, which means re-wrapping the bars.
Yeah, I know, it needs a new cable too.
My bike on the left. I also want to raise the brake levers a smidge, which means re-wrapping the bars.
Last edited by Slightspeed; 08-16-19 at 12:11 PM.
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Been trying to figure out the Simplex derailleur on my '78 PR10. Recently the chain is dragging between the big gear and jockey wheel. The derailleur is leaning forward at a different angle than most other Simplex that I see. I have a long cage Simplex that I'm thinking of trying, except it has a mounting claw attached, and this one is direct mount. Notvsure if I can remove the claw and just bolt it on, or if will screw up the pivot screw. Sure wish these had b-screws. I'm afraid the pivot spring in this one has given up. There is some tension, but the derailleur is pointing so far forward that the chain wrap at the cage is wierd looking. It also has difficulty shifting up the freewheel, getting hung between the big and 2nd gear down. The lowest gear I run is a 40t front, 28t rear.
Yeah, I know, it needs a new cable too.
My bike on the left. I also want to raise the brake levers a smidge, which means re-wrapping the bars.
Yeah, I know, it needs a new cable too.
My bike on the left. I also want to raise the brake levers a smidge, which means re-wrapping the bars.
Very nice looking Peugeot.
I had the same problem with my RD and found a thread on this by googling "Repair Simplex RD Bike Forums".some RD's have to be removed by unscrewing the RD from the rear and many get the spring plate damaged by trying to use an"allen" on the front bolt stripping the retainer..there was a proposed fix for the plate that holds a spring in place, unfortunately, it did not work for me so I had to buy another RD to solve the problem.
Hopefully, your RD plate is not suffering the same issue and only the spring has slipped and it is just a matter of fine-tuning.
BTW I always ride a little before final wrapping of the bars but understand why you were in a hurry to ride the great-looking P.
Best, Ben
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Last edited by xiaoman1; 08-16-19 at 10:10 AM.
#6
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My Sakai is going back to the road, starting with this. The rest will follow.
#8
Uruguay
Yesterday i did some adjustments on this beauty, trying to have her ready to be sold.
Ready to flip. I'm keeping the Kenda 26x2.10 tyres and i put her some used tyres and tubes.
Ready to flip. I'm keeping the Kenda 26x2.10 tyres and i put her some used tyres and tubes.
#9
señor miembro
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#10
Senior Member
SS,
Very nice looking Peugeot.
I had the same problem with my RD and found a thread on this by googling "Repair Simplex RD Bike Forums".some RD's have to be removed by unscrewing the RD from the rear and many get the spring plate damaged by trying to use an"allen" on the front bolt stripping the retainer..there was a proposed fix for the plate that holds a spring in place, unfortunately, it did not work for me so I had to buy another RD to solve the problem.
Hopefully, your RD plate is not suffering the same issue and only the spring has slipped and it is just a matter of fine-tuning.
BTW I always ride a little before final wrapping of the bars but understand why you were in a hurry to ride the great-looking P.
Best, Ben
Very nice looking Peugeot.
I had the same problem with my RD and found a thread on this by googling "Repair Simplex RD Bike Forums".some RD's have to be removed by unscrewing the RD from the rear and many get the spring plate damaged by trying to use an"allen" on the front bolt stripping the retainer..there was a proposed fix for the plate that holds a spring in place, unfortunately, it did not work for me so I had to buy another RD to solve the problem.
Hopefully, your RD plate is not suffering the same issue and only the spring has slipped and it is just a matter of fine-tuning.
BTW I always ride a little before final wrapping of the bars but understand why you were in a hurry to ride the great-looking P.
Best, Ben
#11
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Working on a pair of Schwinns.
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#13
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Been trying to figure out the Simplex derailleur on my '78 PR10. Recently the chain is dragging between the big gear and jockey wheel. The derailleur is leaning forward at a different angle than most other Simplex that I see. I have a long cage Simplex that I'm thinking of trying, except it has a mounting claw attached, and this one is direct mount. Not sure if I can remove the claw and just bolt it on, or if it will screw up the pivot spring. Sure wish these had b-screws. I'm afraid the pivot spring in this one has given up. There is some tension, but the derailleur is pointing so far forward that the chain wrap at the cage is wierd looking. It also has difficulty shifting up the freewheel, getting hung between the big and 2nd gear down. The lowest gear I run is a 40t front, 28t rear.
Yeah, I know, it needs a new cable too.
My bike on the left. I also want to raise the brake levers a smidge, which means re-wrapping the bars.
Yeah, I know, it needs a new cable too.
My bike on the left. I also want to raise the brake levers a smidge, which means re-wrapping the bars.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...x10-build.html
#14
feros ferio
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First 1960 Sieger -- 99% original. Will be keeping most of the original components.
Second 1960 Sieger -- repainted by prior owner. Will be building with somewhat updated components.
I am currently fixing my almost-a-classic 1996 Audi A4, which has an overheated wire with burned insulation from a short in the power window master control module/relay. As soon as I am done with it, I promise myself I am getting back to my perennial project bike (now bikes), the "littermate" Capo Siegers.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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John: Beautiful bikes! We once had an 87 Audi that randomly blew the power window fuse to front passenger door. New fuse & it was fine until it failed again. Multiple unsuccessful attempts by me & others found nothing.
Finally, while replacing the window motor, I discovered its power wire was just long enough to rub the inside of the door & wore through insulation in that spot. Bare wire then touched door metal only in a hard left turn. Fuse would then blow. Replaced with new, shorter wire & problem solved. Don
Finally, while replacing the window motor, I discovered its power wire was just long enough to rub the inside of the door & wore through insulation in that spot. Bare wire then touched door metal only in a hard left turn. Fuse would then blow. Replaced with new, shorter wire & problem solved. Don
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