Hybrid conversion. Questions.
09-16-19, 01:19 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Hybrid conversion. Questions.
We got a roadie for my wife a while ago but she never got used to the drop bar and skinny tires. So we are thinking about converting it to a hybrid so that it'll actually be ridden. The bike is a 47cm Trek 1500 WSD, 2005. We have replaced the RD and cassette with Deore components and triple chain ring with a compact double. We are trying to reuse as many parts as possible. I have some questions regarding the work. Suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance.
1. Drive train: convert to 1x. Can we simply remove the FD and replace the chainring with a single? Do we need a clutching RD? My understanding is that the clutching is only for stability and it'll only be ridden on pavement, I suppose we can keep using the existing Deore RD? The cassette is a 9 speed, 11-34, if that matters.
2. Handlebar: convert to a flat bar with compatible shifter and brake levers. Assuming we can keep the RD, I suppose we can just get a Deore shifter. Brake levers should be easy. For the handlebar itself, a flat bar effectively reduces the reach by quite a bit, compared to a drop bar. Should we get a flat bar with some rise to make the riding position more upright? We are already at the top of the steering tube.
3. Tires: get some fatter ones. The stock tires are 650x23. But they look even skinnier than 23s. The frame and caliper brakes look like they can take something a little fatter, say, 30ish mm. Not sure about the rim. Without specs of the frame and rims (checked trek's archive, couldn't find much info other than brand of the rims), can I measure them to find out the fattest tires I can put on?
1. Drive train: convert to 1x. Can we simply remove the FD and replace the chainring with a single? Do we need a clutching RD? My understanding is that the clutching is only for stability and it'll only be ridden on pavement, I suppose we can keep using the existing Deore RD? The cassette is a 9 speed, 11-34, if that matters.
2. Handlebar: convert to a flat bar with compatible shifter and brake levers. Assuming we can keep the RD, I suppose we can just get a Deore shifter. Brake levers should be easy. For the handlebar itself, a flat bar effectively reduces the reach by quite a bit, compared to a drop bar. Should we get a flat bar with some rise to make the riding position more upright? We are already at the top of the steering tube.
3. Tires: get some fatter ones. The stock tires are 650x23. But they look even skinnier than 23s. The frame and caliper brakes look like they can take something a little fatter, say, 30ish mm. Not sure about the rim. Without specs of the frame and rims (checked trek's archive, couldn't find much info other than brand of the rims), can I measure them to find out the fattest tires I can put on?
Last edited by delingren; 09-16-19 at 01:22 AM.
09-16-19, 01:35 AM
#2
Steel is real
Why did you swap out the rear derailleur? You could probably leave the drivetrain alone if your only concerns are for an upright sitting position.
Shifters for a flatbar that will suit your gears, short pull brake levers to suit your side pull brakes, and fit fatter tyres, you could probably fit up to 30mm width, but not all road bike frames will accept them, not all road bikes will accept 28mm either. This is the first thing you should figure out before you decide to do any modifications.
Shifters for a flatbar that will suit your gears, short pull brake levers to suit your side pull brakes, and fit fatter tyres, you could probably fit up to 30mm width, but not all road bike frames will accept them, not all road bikes will accept 28mm either. This is the first thing you should figure out before you decide to do any modifications.
09-16-19, 05:30 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,139
Bikes: More bikes than riders
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1443 Post(s)
Liked 759 Times
in
568 Posts
2. Handlebar: convert to a flat bar with compatible shifter and brake levers. Assuming we can keep the RD, I suppose we can just get a Deore shifter. Brake levers should be easy. For the handlebar itself, a flat bar effectively reduces the reach by quite a bit, compared to a drop bar. Should we get a flat bar with some rise to make the riding position more upright? We are already at the top of the steering tube.
09-16-19, 06:10 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 580
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 254 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 182 Times
in
141 Posts
You might already know this, but in case you don’t—most flat bar brake levers available today are long pull to be compatible with v-brakes. If you use them with caliper brakes, you don’t have much stopping power. You may have to look around a bit to find proper short pull levers.
with respect to whether to get a bar with more rise, that’s wholly dependent on the preference of the rider. Maybe take her to a bike shop where she can ride some bikes with different setups and figure out what she prefers. Or set up a relatively straight bar and try a few different stems with different rise.
with respect to whether to get a bar with more rise, that’s wholly dependent on the preference of the rider. Maybe take her to a bike shop where she can ride some bikes with different setups and figure out what she prefers. Or set up a relatively straight bar and try a few different stems with different rise.
09-16-19, 08:24 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,702
Bikes: old clunker
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 684 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 105 Times
in
83 Posts
We got a roadie for my wife a while ago but she never got used to the drop bar and skinny tires. So we are thinking about converting it to a hybrid so that it'll actually be ridden. The bike is a 47cm Trek 1500 WSD, 2005. We have replaced the RD and cassette with Deore components and triple chain ring with a compact double. We are trying to reuse as many parts as possible. I have some questions regarding the work. Suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance.
1. Drive train: convert to 1x. Can we simply remove the FD and replace the chainring with a single? Do we need a clutching RD? My understanding is that the clutching is only for stability and it'll only be ridden on pavement, I suppose we can keep using the existing Deore RD? The cassette is a 9 speed, 11-34, if that matters.
2. Handlebar: convert to a flat bar with compatible shifter and brake levers. Assuming we can keep the RD, I suppose we can just get a Deore shifter. Brake levers should be easy. For the handlebar itself, a flat bar effectively reduces the reach by quite a bit, compared to a drop bar. Should we get a flat bar with some rise to make the riding position more upright? We are already at the top of the steering tube.
3. Tires: get some fatter ones. The stock tires are 650x23. But they look even skinnier than 23s. The frame and caliper brakes look like they can take something a little fatter, say, 30ish mm. Not sure about the rim. Without specs of the frame and rims (checked trek's archive, couldn't find much info other than brand of the rims), can I measure them to find out the fattest tires I can put on?
1. Drive train: convert to 1x. Can we simply remove the FD and replace the chainring with a single? Do we need a clutching RD? My understanding is that the clutching is only for stability and it'll only be ridden on pavement, I suppose we can keep using the existing Deore RD? The cassette is a 9 speed, 11-34, if that matters.
2. Handlebar: convert to a flat bar with compatible shifter and brake levers. Assuming we can keep the RD, I suppose we can just get a Deore shifter. Brake levers should be easy. For the handlebar itself, a flat bar effectively reduces the reach by quite a bit, compared to a drop bar. Should we get a flat bar with some rise to make the riding position more upright? We are already at the top of the steering tube.
3. Tires: get some fatter ones. The stock tires are 650x23. But they look even skinnier than 23s. The frame and caliper brakes look like they can take something a little fatter, say, 30ish mm. Not sure about the rim. Without specs of the frame and rims (checked trek's archive, couldn't find much info other than brand of the rims), can I measure them to find out the fattest tires I can put on?
First figure out what actually fits. Then sell the bike you have as-is and buy a suitable whole bike after test riding several. By then maybe you won't have to guess about what tire width you want.
09-16-19, 08:43 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,056
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4195 Post(s)
Liked 3,837 Times
in
2,295 Posts
We got a roadie for my wife a while ago but she never got used to the drop bar and skinny tires. So we are thinking about converting it to a hybrid so that it'll actually be ridden. The bike is a 47cm Trek 1500 WSD, 2005. We have replaced the RD and cassette with Deore components and triple chain ring with a compact double. We are trying to reuse as many parts as possible. I have some questions regarding the work. Suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance.
1. Drive train: convert to 1x. Can we simply remove the FD and replace the chainring with a single? Do we need a clutching RD? My understanding is that the clutching is only for stability and it'll only be ridden on pavement, I suppose we can keep using the existing Deore RD? The cassette is a 9 speed, 11-34, if that matters.
2. Handlebar: convert to a flat bar with compatible shifter and brake levers. Assuming we can keep the RD, I suppose we can just get a Deore shifter. Brake levers should be easy. For the handlebar itself, a flat bar effectively reduces the reach by quite a bit, compared to a drop bar. Should we get a flat bar with some rise to make the riding position more upright? We are already at the top of the steering tube.
3. Tires: get some fatter ones. The stock tires are 650x23. But they look even skinnier than 23s. The frame and caliper brakes look like they can take something a little fatter, say, 30ish mm. Not sure about the rim. Without specs of the frame and rims (checked trek's archive, couldn't find much info other than brand of the rims), can I measure them to find out the fattest tires I can put on?
1. Drive train: convert to 1x. Can we simply remove the FD and replace the chainring with a single? Do we need a clutching RD? My understanding is that the clutching is only for stability and it'll only be ridden on pavement, I suppose we can keep using the existing Deore RD? The cassette is a 9 speed, 11-34, if that matters.
2. Handlebar: convert to a flat bar with compatible shifter and brake levers. Assuming we can keep the RD, I suppose we can just get a Deore shifter. Brake levers should be easy. For the handlebar itself, a flat bar effectively reduces the reach by quite a bit, compared to a drop bar. Should we get a flat bar with some rise to make the riding position more upright? We are already at the top of the steering tube.
3. Tires: get some fatter ones. The stock tires are 650x23. But they look even skinnier than 23s. The frame and caliper brakes look like they can take something a little fatter, say, 30ish mm. Not sure about the rim. Without specs of the frame and rims (checked trek's archive, couldn't find much info other than brand of the rims), can I measure them to find out the fattest tires I can put on?
1- Yes one can simply remove one ring from a double (or triple for that mater). Of course the ring bolts will need to be dealt with. No, a clutched rear der isn't needed. But removing the front der and it's cage might allow greater chain drop off the front if the rider is ragged or the terrain very bumpy. Clutched ders help reduce this.
2- As mentioned bar choice is a fit issue. Do know that MtB and road front drivetrain parts (from Shimano) are not designed to be compatible. This is why Shimano makes flat bar shifters that are road bike component specific.
3- Tire labeled size is only a rough reference to actual measured width. This has been rehashed many times in previous threads before. The fattest tires that will work are going to be far more frame/caliper dependent then the rim width. But the rim width will affect the measured tire widths. This is one area where one really will want to confirm any assumptions (drawn from measurements) by a trial fit. At work we offer our customers the chance to do such in the shop and before they spend $. Do you have a LBS that will let you do this? The Trek 1500 was made during the era od skinnier is better and thus to have their bikes not be buck consumer expectations (of skinny tires being faster, however right or wrong) Trek designed the frame and brake caliper clearances to be tight (just like that winning TdF bike that Lance what was his name rode). Andy
To add- The tire "size" you have are 650C. Note the C. This is an important distinction as these days when one mentions "650" they are likely talking about 650B. C has a rim bead seat diameter of 571mm. B's use 584mm. Totally different. Good luck finding 650C is wider widths. They have been made but are not common at all. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
Last edited by Andrew R Stewart; 09-16-19 at 08:46 AM. Reason: Added info
09-16-19, 09:08 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,599
Bikes: 06 Lemond Reno, 98 GT Timberline mtn.bike
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 426 Post(s)
Liked 699 Times
in
436 Posts
What is it about a drop bar that she does not like? If it's just being bent over too far, that could be remedied with an adjustable stem, which could be bought shorter than the current stem, and would allow the bar to be raised higher-something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-4-Axi...NT66MZNCSHKKD3 If she doesn't like road bike levers for braking and shifting, then you've got some parts swapping to do.
09-16-19, 10:54 AM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Why did you swap out the rear derailleur? You could probably leave the drivetrain alone if your only concerns are for an upright sitting position.
Shifters for a flatbar that will suit your gears, short pull brake levers to suit your side pull brakes, and fit fatter tyres, you could probably fit up to 30mm width, but not all road bike frames will accept them, not all road bikes will accept 28mm either. This is the first thing you should figure out before you decide to do any modifications.
Shifters for a flatbar that will suit your gears, short pull brake levers to suit your side pull brakes, and fit fatter tyres, you could probably fit up to 30mm width, but not all road bike frames will accept them, not all road bikes will accept 28mm either. This is the first thing you should figure out before you decide to do any modifications.
But it looks like shifting is still too confusing and hard for her. She hates the front shifter. It's hard when you have small hands. So she ends up cross chaining all the time. Normally I don't worry too much about cross chaining but it's especially bad on this small bike (47cm).
09-16-19, 11:01 AM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
You might already know this, but in case you don’t—most flat bar brake levers available today are long pull to be compatible with v-brakes. If you use them with caliper brakes, you don’t have much stopping power. You may have to look around a bit to find proper short pull levers.
with respect to whether to get a bar with more rise, that’s wholly dependent on the preference of the rider. Maybe take her to a bike shop where she can ride some bikes with different setups and figure out what she prefers. Or set up a relatively straight bar and try a few different stems with different rise.
with respect to whether to get a bar with more rise, that’s wholly dependent on the preference of the rider. Maybe take her to a bike shop where she can ride some bikes with different setups and figure out what she prefers. Or set up a relatively straight bar and try a few different stems with different rise.
09-16-19, 11:02 AM
#10
Senior Member
I ride a triple with a wide cassette in the back and never go off the large front ring except when I'm futzing with it. I'd have just started with upright bars and suitable shifters, which are all cross compatible in 9sp. Leave everything else as is. My wife's bike is a hybrid and she stayed on the big ring too, except when I told her to shift to the middle while going up a long steep bridge. Now she rides in the middle all the time.
Upright bar thumb shifters are a lot easier to shift than even brifters. My 10sp Deore/XT setup shifts with a very light touch.
Upright bar thumb shifters are a lot easier to shift than even brifters. My 10sp Deore/XT setup shifts with a very light touch.
09-16-19, 11:30 AM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
1- Yes one can simply remove one ring from a double (or triple for that mater). Of course the ring bolts will need to be dealt with. No, a clutched rear der isn't needed. But removing the front der and it's cage might allow greater chain drop off the front if the rider is ragged or the terrain very bumpy. Clutched ders help reduce this.
2- As mentioned bar choice is a fit issue. Do know that MtB and road front drivetrain parts (from Shimano) are not designed to be compatible. This is why Shimano makes flat bar shifters that are road bike component specific.
3- Tire labeled size is only a rough reference to actual measured width. This has been rehashed many times in previous threads before. The fattest tires that will work are going to be far more frame/caliper dependent then the rim width. But the rim width will affect the measured tire widths. This is one area where one really will want to confirm any assumptions (drawn from measurements) by a trial fit. At work we offer our customers the chance to do such in the shop and before they spend $. Do you have a LBS that will let you do this? The Trek 1500 was made during the era od skinnier is better and thus to have their bikes not be buck consumer expectations (of skinny tires being faster, however right or wrong) Trek designed the frame and brake caliper clearances to be tight (just like that winning TdF bike that Lance what was his name rode). Andy
To add- The tire "size" you have are 650C. Note the C. This is an important distinction as these days when one mentions "650" they are likely talking about 650B. C has a rim bead seat diameter of 571mm. B's use 584mm. Totally different. Good luck finding 650C is wider widths. They have been made but are not common at all. Andy
2- As mentioned bar choice is a fit issue. Do know that MtB and road front drivetrain parts (from Shimano) are not designed to be compatible. This is why Shimano makes flat bar shifters that are road bike component specific.
3- Tire labeled size is only a rough reference to actual measured width. This has been rehashed many times in previous threads before. The fattest tires that will work are going to be far more frame/caliper dependent then the rim width. But the rim width will affect the measured tire widths. This is one area where one really will want to confirm any assumptions (drawn from measurements) by a trial fit. At work we offer our customers the chance to do such in the shop and before they spend $. Do you have a LBS that will let you do this? The Trek 1500 was made during the era od skinnier is better and thus to have their bikes not be buck consumer expectations (of skinny tires being faster, however right or wrong) Trek designed the frame and brake caliper clearances to be tight (just like that winning TdF bike that Lance what was his name rode). Andy
To add- The tire "size" you have are 650C. Note the C. This is an important distinction as these days when one mentions "650" they are likely talking about 650B. C has a rim bead seat diameter of 571mm. B's use 584mm. Totally different. Good luck finding 650C is wider widths. They have been made but are not common at all. Andy
09-16-19, 02:04 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,139
Bikes: More bikes than riders
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1443 Post(s)
Liked 759 Times
in
568 Posts
Tubes do, but that's probably stretching it (pardon the pun). A "27 inch" wheel is 630mm in diameter (bead seat). A "650c" wheel is 571mm in diameter. I would think that using a "27 inch" tube in a "650c" wheel would leave a lot of bunched-up material somewhere. A better solution is probably using a "26 inch" tube (those wheels are 559mm in diameter). You could get a tube for a "26x1.0" tire or something similar and that should work. Ideally, it'll also be marked "559mm". If you buy something for a "26 inch" tire, make sure the second number is a decimal. "26 x something_with_a_fraction" is yet another diameter.
09-16-19, 02:38 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 29,546
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5223 Post(s)
Liked 3,579 Times
in
2,341 Posts
n-1+n+1=happy wife 
Likes For rumrunn6:
09-16-19, 03:45 PM
#15
Dirty Heathen
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Posts: 2,182
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 889 Post(s)
Liked 906 Times
in
534 Posts
Since it looks like OP is going to change everything on this bike but the paint job, (provided he can find wider 571 tires, if the frame even has room for something like that)
Might be better to find a suitable 26" bike 1x it, and put it on slicks, since it'll already come with most of the components you need. (you'll actually just be removing some extra stuff, rather than wholesale swap-outs)
Converting a drop-bar road bike in to an upright cruiser generally requires compromises and work-arounds.
Sell the 650c roadster and find one that's got 80% of the features / components / geometry that your looking for, rather than changing 80% of a bike that doesn't work, and working around the rest.
@delingren Go Here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...nversions.html
Might be better to find a suitable 26" bike 1x it, and put it on slicks, since it'll already come with most of the components you need. (you'll actually just be removing some extra stuff, rather than wholesale swap-outs)
Converting a drop-bar road bike in to an upright cruiser generally requires compromises and work-arounds.
Sell the 650c roadster and find one that's got 80% of the features / components / geometry that your looking for, rather than changing 80% of a bike that doesn't work, and working around the rest.
@delingren Go Here: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...nversions.html
