Onyxaxe

Hello forum members. I caught a glimpse of a bright yellow Montgomery Ward 26" road style bike. Set me back a whopping 20.00 bucks. I want to fix it up and make it a winter beater.



Off the top of your head what specs do you know?.

It's in pretty good shape, the right size and the local LBS should be able to service the cottered crank bottom bracket, headset and such. Only one rust spot. What I need from you all is brake and wheel info.

I found a cheap set of alloy wheels that are spaced 135mm, What spacing do these kinds of bikes usually have?. Like most bikes typical of this era I'd need hex nut calipers. I may use the old ones, I may swap them out. What calipers do you recommend for a older 26" style bike like this?.

Thanks everyone in advance.

Lascauxcaveman 

I briefly had the exact same bike (in much worse condition) as a trash find.

Most likely 120mm spacing, so the new wheels are a bit of a stretch to get in the dropouts. I assumed the original wheels were steel 27" rims, but I admit I didn't even look, I just loaded the bike up with a pile of cheap MTBs and BMXs I was hauling to the co-op. Looking at the clearance under the brake bridge, it looks like this bike might accommodate either 26" or 27" rims, with the right choice of calipers. Can't really tell about the clearance under the fork crown, though.

IMHO, this bike isn't worth the effort as a project. Unless you really like it for some reason. Be more fun to apply and decent parts and effort to a lighter and more interesting frame. This one is a cheap was they get.

Onyxaxe

I've got much nicer bikes, I honestly just bought it because I liked it for some reason. I don't know why, but my brain keeps telling me it's cute lol. 120mm eh?. Maybe I'll just singlespeed it. I have a single speed cottered crank laying around. Thanks.

juvela

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The two possible vendors are Chiorda & Styria. From what can be seen leaning more toward Styria. Wheels are likely 26 x 1 3/8". An easy to work on bike. Be aware that steerer is likely 26.0mm o.d.

Shell will be 68mm ISO/BSC dimension. Would be easy to mount an inexpensive nippon alloy cotterless chainset, if desired, should you wish to reduce weight a bit and/or get away from wedgebolts.

Sheldon Brown has helpful page on rear triangle spacing and alignment.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

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Lascauxcaveman 

Well, you can find out easily enough. Pull the rear wheel and measure. And, well, if you've got a stash of parts you can play with without going to any real expense, then dive in!

This would be a good frame to practice cold-setting the rear triangle to accommodate that new set of rims. Google the term "cold setting a bicycle frame", you'll find plenty of tutorials on how to do it. You want to get fancy, you could even re-align the dropouts afterwards to make them square with the new 135mm spread.

Onyxaxe

[QUOTE=Lascauxcaveman;19324789]Well, you can find out easily enough. Pull the rear wheel and measure. And, well, if you've got a stash of parts you can play with without going to any real expense, then dive in!

This would be a good frame to practice cold-setting the rear triangle to accommodate that new set of rims. Google the term "cold setting a bicycle frame", you'll find plenty of tutorials on how to do it. You want to get fancy, you could even re-align the dropouts afterwards to make them square with the new 135mm spread.[/QUOTE

I think I like that idea, not looking to buy a brand new set of steel wheels that costs as much if not more than alloy just because of the spacing. This is a good bike to practice on, think I'll give it a shot to save my nicer ones from screwups. Thanks again.

markwesti

What do you think about this.... 700c's 6-7 speed freewheel space to 126 , fenders , DT shifters , get rid of the suicide levers ?
Black cables / bar tape . Better looking seat tube clamp . Better seat post and a black Brooks saddle .

Onyxaxe

Since you have experience with this particular model, what threading is the BB?. Can I just plop a modern bb in there?.

juvela

https://www.bikeforums.net/19324785-post4.html

Onyxaxe

I might do this sans Fenders and Brooks saddle. I have so many odd bikes I could use another 700c, Depending on the bottom bracket threading and brake situation I may go this route. This bike is in such great condition I can't imagine scrapping it even if it is crummy steel. It barely even looks ridden and none of the parts are seized. I still think It'd be as useful as a State Bicycle or something like that once fixed up.

Onyxaxe

Thank you kindly .

markwesti

Yeah the Brooks was over the top , this bike was a deal so lets keep it that way . I just got one of these seats , for the price I like it . Also get this , correct size of course .

Salamandrine 

Oil it up, new tires if necessary. Stop there. These were cheap heavy bikes made from mild steel. Meant for riding 6 blocks to meet your friends to play basketball after school. Don't throw money at it. Brooks? no way.

jetboy 

you need to enter it in the winter beater challenge! some good examples in there..

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...challenge.html

Onyxaxe

Tossed it into the stand and got to work.





Rear Dropout width - 124
Seatube Diameter (f clamp) - 25.4
Seatpost Clamp Diameter - 25.4
Seatpost Diameter - 22.2
Quill Diameter - 21.1

The second picture is of parts I had laying around and ones I snatched off my old french bike. Most of them look like they'll fit and will give me an excuse to upgrade my nicer bike .

Onyxaxe

I made the rookie mistake of trying to remove the knurled headset washer without removing the lockring first and it's jammed a bit. I live in an apartment so I'll take it to the LBS and let them handle it since I need them to remove the cottered crank anyway. Everything else was a breeze. I liked the yellow but want some peace of mind with the little bit of rust I do see. I'll prob, strip, rustoleum, rattlecan and apply framesaver. I need the practice for my upcoming World Sport conversion anyway.

juvela

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The OEM chainset is not cottered but rather Thun pattern. This arrangement does not employ the shell's threads. What appears to be a cotter on left side crank arm is actually a pinch bolt. Loosen the nut and arm will slide off the spindle's splines. You can then unthread left side bearings and right hand arm with chainwheels will come right out. Spindle is permanently affixed to rh crank arm.

Since the shell's threads were not employed by the chainset you may discover that they need to be chased/cleaned to get BSC dimension fittings to thread in.

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Andy_K 

So that's a Schwinn/BMX quill diameter. Your replacement options are limited, but there's a threadless adapter available in that size kind of cheap. Better would be if you can just use the stem it has.

Like juvela said, those "26 inch" wheels are likely a different size than the common 26" mountain bike wheels. Likely they're 590mm whereas 26" MTB wheels are 559. Given where the brake pads are in the picture, there's no way they'd reach the rim of a mountain bike if those are any of the 26x1-3/8 variety wheels. The ERTO size should be stamped on the size of the tire. Replacement options are extremely limited in some of those sizes. I would have said a bigger wheel might work, but it doesn't look like you have much spare room at the chainstay bridge.

As for a singlespeed crank, you've got one right there -- just unbolt the chainrings and pick one.

Definitely enter this in the Hardcore Beater challenge if you don't just decide to send it to the recycling center. You could probably get your $20 back selling the parts. I'd be interested in that stem if you don't use it.

Onyxaxe

They are definitely the 26x1 3/8 size. The tires sidewalls are rotted so I can't make out the markings. It looks just like this tire judging by the tread

https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Schwinn...=26x1+3+8+tire

I've got some 27" and 622mm wheels laying around. I'm gonna check the clearance real quick.

juvela

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Styria usually fitted Semperit brand tyres to most of their machines.


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Onyxaxe

Alrighty. Half dead form tinkering about with old steel bikes. The 27's wouldn't fit because of the kickstand mount plate. Couldn't remove the 700c wheel from my single because of fenders and stuff. I was able to make out some lettering on the sidewalls on the MG Ward and they are indeed 26x1 3/8. I'm guessing 650a suns or 650b are my options but neither are worth the investment and I'm definitely not reusing the old calipers. Back to the drawing board.

juvela

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Addendum concerning chainset/bb -

It is possible you may discover shell to be unthreaded since chainset fitted does not require them. Once purchased a new Steyr road frame which came with an unthreaded shell. If the cycle's shell is without threads it would probably not be cost effective to have it threaded. In such case you might wish to reuse stock chainset.

We have not thus far mentioned dating. Suspect machine hails from near to 1972. You may discover a date coded on the wheel rims.

Regarding wheel size - going to 700 as opposed to 27" will only gain four mm of clearance.

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Kdogbikes

I like your style. Bike work stand in an apartment working on old bike. Yellow bikes are worth saving.

DiabloScott

Those brakes gonna fit? Originals look like ultra-long reach.

juvela

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Brake calipers selected with thought that wheel size was going to be changed to one of a larger diameter.

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