razorjack

Hey,
I've just found a crack on my QR from Roval wheels (probably I was using too much force), and I need ones (or at least one ), S-Works Tarmac SL6 frame.
Can you feel difference between 'standard' ones that weights >100g and light ones? (35-50g?) I'm not talking about the weight but clamping force (bike handling later etc.)
Or difference between ones with internal cam mechanism and the ones with 'external' (of course I'll avoid ones with plasticky parts).

internal cam


external:

and very light:

FBinNY 

The answer depends on your bike.

Very little clamping force is needed for front wheels, except those with disc brakes. Likewise for rear wheels if you have vertical dropouts.

Vertical dropouts have allowed QRs with poor clamping to succeed. However they often cannot keep wheels from slipping with horizontal dropouts. Likewise, poor performance of these newer QRs on disc brake bikes stimulated the change to through axle systems.

So, consider the specific needs of your bike and choose accordingly.

razorjack

ah, didn't add, S-Works Tarmac SL6 frame, rim brakes, so quite 'standard' open dropouts, full carbon at the front, at the back NDS dropout is carbon, DS has outer side metal (hanger).
but also I saw people commenting somewhere that with 'weak' clamping force, you can feel more flex (during turning)

razorjack

Quite big differences, ~4700N vs 2700N...

Polaris OBark

Get steel. Titanium slightly stretches.

shelbyfv

You seem to be aware that internal cam design clamps better. Once you move to external cam, I don't think you can generalize based on weight.

FBinNY 

OK, wheel holding requirements are minimal, so absolutely ANY QR will do.

While I'm normally a strong believer in QRs and axles with hard serrated faces that can bite into the frame, your bike calls for the opposite. Look for relatively smooth faces that won't cut into those CF dropouts.

razorjack

Somehow wheel manufacturers, even with most expensive wheels and lightest wheels (roval, shimano etc.), provide quite standard skewers weighting >100g

razorjack

well.... i'm not sure about that, for some reason we have internal cam QRs - much stronger
and light ones with external cam 40-60g ...
And I believe that clamping force may affect how frame flexes... (I don't know how much however )

Iride01 

Just curious. Where on the QR was the crack?

FBinNY 

Yes, there's plenty of options, and as I mentioned in my first post, various factors may require greater holding power. I don't get into internal vs. external cams arguments because I've seen excellent and pathetic versions of both.

How?

Of course, you're free to believe what you will, but in my world, a theory without an explanation of the underlying mechanism is just a bunch of words.

razorjack

exactly the same as on MTB wheels (that's why you have TorqueCaps in RockShox forks), higher clamping force increases torsional stiffness (generally - just any/all stiffness, I'm not a physicist and English is not my primary language, so can't explain that well)
as 2 surfaces - hub end cap surface and frame surface will stick more - creating stiffer interface

in case of a city bike, probably it doesn't matter...

Yep. I don't have to believe in your "even weakest QR will do" theory

FBinNY 

You came for advice. Nobody says you have to accept it.

tFUnK

In my 20+ years of cycling I've had two instances of QR skewer failure. Both were of the external cam type and both had the nut end (not the lever end) unscrew itself. On one case, I'll take the blame as it was one of those ultralight Ti skewers from eBay (probably didn't pass QA and should have never been sold). The other is a stock Bontrager skewer that seemed really solid and robust but it was on a gravel bike and maybe I didn't tighten it enough before clamping. Possibility of user error there but I still don't trust it fully.

Apart from this, my opinion is that a skewer is a skewer. I like Shimano and Reynolds ones. Mavic skewers feel nice but I don't think they clamp as hard, but they've also never failed me, either.

Koyote

Just buy a pair of Ultegra skewers (off Amazon, perhaps) and be done with it. They work as well as anything out there and the weight is a non-issue.

Polaris OBark

My favorites are the Dura Ace (as pictured in the OP) and DT Swiss steel skewers that use the same ratchet-like mechanism as their thru-axle handles.

shelbyfv

It's apparent this advice was specific to your actual bike. Maybe try to understand what's been posted before you get snippy with people who have made an effort to help you. Furthermore, not sure why you started this thread. Seems you just want to display your "knowledge" of QRs and argue about a component that normally causes no drama.

sweeks

So does steel... but less!

razorjack

hidetaka

When my front Ti skewer stretches too much I move it to the rear and get a new front one

soyabean

Good clear photo showing the crack in the QR housing.

The vintage Shimano ones were machined steel, this one in the photo looks like it was die casted.

All you can really do is replace it with a better one.

If you want to be precise on the force, get a nut and bolt skewer. Those gets tightened with 7nm.

I use these on my personal bikes. I never remove the wheels anyways as I transport with a platform carrier.

Besides, they are just very long M5 bolts that use the same 4mm hex tool.

smd4

"I've got a great idea! Let's re-engineer a quick release to completely eliminate all the convenience that it originally had!"

soyabean

As one of the top 10 bike cities in the world, are you aware wheelset theft in my hometown is common?

I'll keep my skewer bolts and my wheels. Thanks.

smd4

People prefer to just steal the wheels and not the entire bike?

My QR wheels would never get stolen no matter where I lived because I would never leave my bike unattended.

soyabean

What was I thinking with silly locknuts for my wheelset. I'm so dumb to leave my bike unattended.

I suppose about a hundred thousand daily commuters should just bring their bikes into their workplaces and classrooms.