Winfried

Thanks for the info.

"What's the Difference Between Soldering, Brazing, and Welding?"
https://www.machinedesign.com/fastene...ng-and-welding

So it looks like the more realistic alternative is:

• Klickfix Caddy adapter
• Brompton luggage block + jubilee clip/hose clamp

BromptonINrio

its an nonsense statement.
if you read well, you will see im saying its possible to solder aluminion lugs on aluminiun frame.
If you cant make it work or to lazy to find a good profissional you cannot say its impossible
i made atachments of fork for front carrier touring bike and its strong as bull for more 10 years.
Stell to alu? No.. i didn say that...its a crazy assumpsion.
JUST hire a framebuilder to fix and he will know what to do.
it will not ruin heat treatment as tig soldering doesnt heat the pieace itself, but put solder stuff in lug, making it more stronger that before..

2_i 

Solder will not hold unless soldered elements are heated. Above all you do not seem to tell apart soldering from welding. A loaded Brompton carrier will not hold on an alu lug. Interesting use of term 'lazy'. I am not looking to learn from this discussion and pull myself out - just wanted to make a point that anybody thinking to follow your advice has second thoughts - this much I hopefully achieved. Bye

P.S. At a reduced max load you can presumably live with an alu lug.

Abu Mahendra

I used the Kickflix caddy in my Korea tour without problems. I mounted it on the seatpost, holding an Ortlieb bag. Granted, I never loaded it beyond maybe 2.5kg of its 7kg rating...

bike.gang.uk

On older neobike brompton without lug.

QR and Clamp versions

BromptonINrio

wow, how can i get one of clamp versions?

Winfried

I'll pass on the brazing option since it would 1) ruin the paint and 2) require finding a professional to perform the same kind of surgery on an aluminum bike.

The QR option looks very interesting, OTOH, but is not currently found on the site:
https://www.bikegang.co.uk/bikeganghut/Brommie-c9803294

If you do manufacture it, it might be a very appealing option for Dahon/Tern/Strida owners as an easy way to use a Brompton bag.

bike.gang.uk

The clamp and QR version are someone's DIY project, let me check if he plans to produce them.

Winfried

A QR Brompton block would definitely be a great product to stick on any non-Brompton bike.

On the Strida, you can't have it low on the headtube because it prevents folding the bike, but a QR block would be easy to remove when the user does need to fold the bike (although not as easy as simply leaving it permanently, but hey.)

Namida12

This may not work for all bicycles, but seems to be another option: https://www.fantastic4toys.com/produ...-birdy-bicycle

JR

Schwinnsta

Here is on that looks like it would work for many. I am in the process of making a quick release Brompton luggage block.

Winfried

It might prevent the Strida from folding, though, as the two tubes get very close.The only way is to give it a try.

biker101

A simple DIY solution, "hacking" a seatpost rack. See:
https://mybikesite.org/#CarrierBlockMount

luke1111

Wanted to revive this thread with a few photos of a DIY welded brompton block adapter. For context, this was my first attempt at welding (apart from a quick half hour practice session on scrap metal). This was done with a cheap flux core welder.

imgur[dot]com/a/0xT1ha1

Winfried

https://imgur.com/a/0xT1ha1

2_i 

I am not sure you are selling me on this. Maybe there was a room there for more practice .

luke1111

Yeah definitely not the prettiest welds (it was my first time welding!), but I think they should hold the 10kg limit many of the racks recommend.

Hard to get a photo of the inside of the tube, but there is a visible sign that the heat penetrated into the metal which is a good sign that the weld was effective. It doesn't take a ton of welding to create the kind of strength needed for a rack -- different story for structural frame welds.

Not trying to convince anyone to do it, just wanted to share my experience in case anyone else wants to venture down this path!

Happy cycling ya'll

Schwinnsta

The problem is that if this is welded as opposed to brazed, then you have lost the heat treatment of the metal around the area of the weld and thus weakened that area of the head tube.

luke1111

Just wanted to follow up now that I've run a few real-world tests. I've been able to haul 10kg of groceries on my front rack without any issue. Seems like the welds are holding strong!

link to photo : imgur[dot]com/a/zdcgMV5

Winfried

https://imgur.com/a/zdcgMV5

Winfried

Finally, someone came up with a carrier block that can fit any tube without bothering with a mount base ŕ la Litepro/H&H

Jipe

This way of mounting on the head tube won't work with frames like the Birdy and Zizzo with a big main tube that cover most of the length of the head tube.

My experience from building several own adapter for several bikes is that it will probably rotate around the head tube and won't be stiff enough to avoid the bag to wobble.

There was several years ago an adapter for Birdy with steel wires placed more or less like the plastic straps of this one 5but with a bigger spacing to come above and below the thick Birdy main tube) and it wasn't strong enough and tight enough to avoid rotation around the head tube and wobbling of the bag (it also eventually broke during the ride).

The tilt to the front might also be a problem. To reduce the cantilever effect, the bag frame should be tilted to the rear, not to the front (like it is the case with some of the Litepro adapters).

I definitely wouldn't use such kind of adapter!

Winfried

Since I could return them in case they didn't fit, I ordered the four adapters from Litepro.

Using a digital sliding calliper, the only difference I see is in the external distance between the two flanges (87, 90, 97mm)

If needed, each flange can be turned upside down thanks to the three bolts on the inside, which helps to fit them on bikes that weren't meant for that use.

We order stuff so you don't have toŽ

https://liteprobicycle.com/collections/adapter

Jipe

There is a major other difference: the two first 51-98mm and for Bird 2 3 tilt the bag frame to the front (bigger distance from the stem) what increases the cantilever effect while the third one K3 plus tilt the bag frame to the rear (closer to the stem) which is what also happen when the bloc is mounted on the Brompton. Maybe its possible to mount the vertical part of the adapter upside down to have the same rear tilt with the two first types?

To minimize the cantilever effect, the bag frame should be as close as possible to the stem.

The H&H adapter place the bag frame very close to the stem.

For the Birdy, the head tube bearings are different on the Birdy 2 (external) and Birdy 3 (semi integrated), the adapter must be different to take care of this (like for H&H that has two different adapter one for Birdy 3, another one for Birdy 2 (and recently one for the Birdy New Classic).

The Litepro adapter for Birdy on the Birdy create steering wobble even with relatively low bag load that doesn't happen with the H&H adapter (unless you overload he bag), its a bad design!

Winfried

Yes, you can just install the adapter upside down.

The Litepro for Birdy is available in two versions, to match 2/3.

As for the bad design, I'll report back after giving it a try.