Correct STI lever position?
#1
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Correct STI lever position?
Or is this too straight? The part that slopes up, it used to be almost vertically straight.
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Could you post a pic from further back, getting more of "the whole picture"?
It's very subjective. If you're comfortable, that's the top priority. Personally I wouldn't have the bars rotated back so much, I like a little bit of drop from the tops of the bars to the hoods, but others like the whole platform from the tops to the hoods to be flat. I also like the drops to be closer to horizontal - again, that's just me.
It's very subjective. If you're comfortable, that's the top priority. Personally I wouldn't have the bars rotated back so much, I like a little bit of drop from the tops of the bars to the hoods, but others like the whole platform from the tops to the hoods to be flat. I also like the drops to be closer to horizontal - again, that's just me.
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pref is a little bit lower.
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personally, for me, I tried to get an angle that works in the drops as well as on the hoods. so I think for me, the bottom is usually close to parallel w/ the ground
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Comes down to personal preference.
Not my bike.
Not my bike.
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I see lots of bikes like that -- or worse -- on RAGBRAI.
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Different handlebars, with different STI's, on different bikes ridden by different people with different sizes and shapes, with different styles and goals and reasons for riding. What is right is what works for you on what you are riding, and how you ride.
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Ideally you want to prevent infaming any carpal tunnel issues & that geometry is up to the user.
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I don't think there is absolute right or wrong but what is comfortable. However GCN just did a video about this today.
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#13
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It's hard to say from your photo. Can you make a photo taken from farther back, aimed directly at the stem, with the camera held exactly horizontal?
Assuming the photo is level left to right: If it was my bike, I'd keep your same bar rotation, but move the hoods up the curve just a little more. It does depend on how much drop you have from the saddle.
What works for me:
I have my bars set a little higher than some riders.
This setup works great for riding in the drops and on the hoods. I use the drops as just another hand position. Drops are great for headwinds, of course. But also on rough, bumpy roads, for hand comfort and bike control. I get better braking control in the drops, too. I probably ride 35% drops, 50% hoods, 15% tops. I really like being able to switch hand positions (and get a little more aero in the drops).
My setup:
The top of the bars are about 1 to 1.5 inches below the top of the saddle.
The bar ends point to a spot a few inches lower than the rear caliper brakes. Somewhere in the middle of the seat stay is often a good starting point.
The base of the hoods are angled upwards slightly.
Setting up:
with bar tape removed:
I sit on the bike in a doorway.
I shake out my arm and hand to help relax into a neutral hand position.
See if the palm lands evenly on the drops without having to angle the wrist. Adjust the bar angle by loosening the stem clamp a bit, and rotating.
This sets the handlebar angle for comfortable drops with even pressure across the palm.
Do the same thing with the hoods. Shake arm, reach to the hood, see if the hood base fits the palm, minimizing wrist angle changes.
It's helpful to just temporarily tape the cables to the bar with electrical tape, and test ride. Apply the bar tape when everything is set.
I have long fingers, so I don't have any lever reach problems.
Assuming the photo is level left to right: If it was my bike, I'd keep your same bar rotation, but move the hoods up the curve just a little more. It does depend on how much drop you have from the saddle.
What works for me:
I have my bars set a little higher than some riders.
This setup works great for riding in the drops and on the hoods. I use the drops as just another hand position. Drops are great for headwinds, of course. But also on rough, bumpy roads, for hand comfort and bike control. I get better braking control in the drops, too. I probably ride 35% drops, 50% hoods, 15% tops. I really like being able to switch hand positions (and get a little more aero in the drops).
My setup:
The top of the bars are about 1 to 1.5 inches below the top of the saddle.
The bar ends point to a spot a few inches lower than the rear caliper brakes. Somewhere in the middle of the seat stay is often a good starting point.
The base of the hoods are angled upwards slightly.
Setting up:
with bar tape removed:
I sit on the bike in a doorway.
I shake out my arm and hand to help relax into a neutral hand position.
See if the palm lands evenly on the drops without having to angle the wrist. Adjust the bar angle by loosening the stem clamp a bit, and rotating.
This sets the handlebar angle for comfortable drops with even pressure across the palm.
Do the same thing with the hoods. Shake arm, reach to the hood, see if the hood base fits the palm, minimizing wrist angle changes.
It's helpful to just temporarily tape the cables to the bar with electrical tape, and test ride. Apply the bar tape when everything is set.
I have long fingers, so I don't have any lever reach problems.
Last edited by rm -rf; 03-02-20 at 09:40 PM.
#14
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Could you post a pic from further back, getting more of "the whole picture"?
It's very subjective. If you're comfortable, that's the top priority. Personally I wouldn't have the bars rotated back so much, I like a little bit of drop from the tops of the bars to the hoods, but others like the whole platform from the tops to the hoods to be flat. I also like the drops to be closer to horizontal - again, that's just me.
It's very subjective. If you're comfortable, that's the top priority. Personally I wouldn't have the bars rotated back so much, I like a little bit of drop from the tops of the bars to the hoods, but others like the whole platform from the tops to the hoods to be flat. I also like the drops to be closer to horizontal - again, that's just me.
It's hard to say from your photo. Can you make a photo taken from farther back, aimed directly at the stem, with the camera held exactly horizontal?
Assuming the photo is level left to right: If it was my bike, I'd keep your same bar rotation, but move the hoods up the curve just a little more. It does depend on how much drop you have from the saddle.
Assuming the photo is level left to right: If it was my bike, I'd keep your same bar rotation, but move the hoods up the curve just a little more. It does depend on how much drop you have from the saddle.
Pic below. Yeah i’m also thinking of moving the hoods up by just a little bit. As for the current drop position, it’s not parallel but this works and feels good to me, been riding for a year in this position. No prob with lever reach in the hoods or drops in the older and current setup.
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#15
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Mine don’t have a screw. But it has something that you put inside, somewhere near the top of the hoods, to adjust lever reach by a few mm. Two different sizes of those. Not exactly sure, maybe 4 and 8mm.
#16
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#17
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Those who buy endurance frames with taller head tubes obviously buy into the idea that they don't want much saddle to bar drop.
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I would just rotate the bars down a hair. Interface between the top of bar to brifters is level. On those bars, ideally you want a level surface from the tops to the brifters. You don't have to match the angle of the stem. On non compact bars, you would rotate the brifters so the bottom is level with the drops. In both cases you need to ensure you can shift and brake properly in the drops.
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I would just rotate the bars down a hair. Interface between the top of bar to brifters is level. On those bars, ideally you want a level surface from the tops to the brifters. You don't have to match the angle of the stem. On non compact bars, you would rotate the brifters so the bottom is level with the drops. In both cases you need to ensure you can shift and brake properly in the drops.
#20
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I would just rotate the bars down a hair. Interface between the top of bar to brifters is level. On those bars, ideally you want a level surface from the tops to the brifters. You don't have to match the angle of the stem. On non compact bars, you would rotate the brifters so the bottom is level with the drops. In both cases you need to ensure you can shift and brake properly in the drops.
#21
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I set mine up exactly as you are showing.
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I can't say if it will feel any shorter, but you don't have to rotate anything. If that is comfortable for you leave it as is. It does sound like you need a longer stem if you feel cramped.
#23
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On my main ride, I'm pretty sure the left and right are slightly different
#24
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I see them at a bunch of angles. Depends on the bike, the rider and such...
My 29er Monster Cross top.
1986 KHS middle.
2006 CAAD8 bottom.
Not pictured, my trainer bike...
Moved them around a lot before deciding.
My 29er Monster Cross top.
1986 KHS middle.
2006 CAAD8 bottom.
Not pictured, my trainer bike...
Moved them around a lot before deciding.
#25
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