Source for new threaded fork?
#1
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Source for new threaded fork?
I'm probably missing something obvious, but can anyone point me to a source for new, good quality, nice looking 1" threaded forks?
What I've seen so far are cheap (and to me, ugly) unicrown steel forks and I see that Wound Up makes what looks to be a very nice carbonfiber-legged threaded fork. That's my leading candidate so far and the only new, high quality, nice looking production, threaded fork I've found so far, and it can give you options for steer tube length as well as rake. I'd prefer a source for stock forks, but would consider custom.
It's not that I "hate" unicrown forks, it's just that for this bike, I'd prefer not. If metal - a sloped, subtle lugged fork is more like it.
Regarding "new old stock" or used forks, I am happy to pay more for some peace of mind and an existing company to back their product both quality-wise and legally. A good used steel fork would probably be the only used fork I'd consider.
I'm not really interested in a threadless set up for this bike.
What I've seen so far are cheap (and to me, ugly) unicrown steel forks and I see that Wound Up makes what looks to be a very nice carbonfiber-legged threaded fork. That's my leading candidate so far and the only new, high quality, nice looking production, threaded fork I've found so far, and it can give you options for steer tube length as well as rake. I'd prefer a source for stock forks, but would consider custom.
It's not that I "hate" unicrown forks, it's just that for this bike, I'd prefer not. If metal - a sloped, subtle lugged fork is more like it.
Regarding "new old stock" or used forks, I am happy to pay more for some peace of mind and an existing company to back their product both quality-wise and legally. A good used steel fork would probably be the only used fork I'd consider.
I'm not really interested in a threadless set up for this bike.
#2
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A quick search found a couple of options here........... https://www.retro-gression.com/collections/forks
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The best place for your needs, not fully knowing them is the back of an old bike shop, your local bike coop, or ebay. If you are patient a nice one will show up. The problem with threaded 1" steerers is that they all varied in size, so you could find one used in your size or greater to make it happen, but you'll need someone who knows how to cut it properly.
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Soma sells one: https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/pro...2&category=975
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A quick search found a couple of options here........... https://www.retro-gression.com/collections/forks
The best place for your needs, not fully knowing them is the back of an old bike shop, your local bike coop, or ebay. If you are patient a nice one will show up. The problem with threaded 1" steerers is that they all varied in size, so you could find one used in your size or greater to make it happen, but you'll need someone who knows how to cut it properly.
Soma sells one: https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/pro...2&category=975
Last edited by Camilo; 02-04-21 at 09:48 PM.
#6
framebuilder
This just sees like a job for a custom frame builder. He/she could figure out the exact measurements required by finding out the dimensions of your frame. Those dimensions also include what length of blades puts the brake shoes in the same place in the slots as they are in the rear. And while it is possible the original fork had 43/45mm of rake it is just as possible it had more. And of course then you can choose the kind of fork crown that will match the frame. Fork blades come in different wall thicknesses and replacement forks tend toward the too heavy side as a safety feature. And then there is the question of whether you want one, two or no eyelets.
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Jeff Lyon says he’ll will build a fork for $285. Not sure what parameters are associated with them, but BQ liked his L’Avecaise.
https://www.lyonsport.com/frames-0
https://www.lyonsport.com/frames-0
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#8
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BLB makes some quite affordable threaded chromed steel forks.
https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/forks
https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/forks
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This just sees like a job for a custom frame builder. He/she could figure out the exact measurements required by finding out the dimensions of your frame. Those dimensions also include what length of blades puts the brake shoes in the same place in the slots as they are in the rear. And while it is possible the original fork had 43/45mm of rake it is just as possible it had more. And of course then you can choose the kind of fork crown that will match the frame. Fork blades come in different wall thicknesses and replacement forks tend toward the too heavy side as a safety feature. And then there is the question of whether you want one, two or no eyelets.
Another thing I've wondered is how you might go about matching a fork to a frame that is sold without a fork. I've always been reluctant to buy a frame sans fork because I assume it may have been crashed, but also because I'm not sure how a non-original fork might affect the ride. Any thoughts or guidance?
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https://waterfordbikes.com/waterford-built-forks/
I've since changed my plans but I was going here to get a nice fork for my Waterford built Milwaukee Road.
I've since changed my plans but I was going here to get a nice fork for my Waterford built Milwaukee Road.
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A quick search found a couple of options here........... https://www.retro-gression.com/collections/forks
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Thanks for the pointers and thoughts on having a fork made. I'll check that out.
The Wound Up option had piqued my interest quite a bit too.
The Wound Up option had piqued my interest quite a bit too.
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How long of a steerer do you need?
#14
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What part of the country are you in? From discussion above, the builder would want to have the frame to measure before making the fork.
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Steer tube + headset = 164mm, so a little less than that minimum, with a maximum of about 180 or so of total length (using spacers... I use a tall stem and it would just mean less above the head set). I'm not afraid to cut the top off to get within that range and dress the threads, but only if it would leave about 25mm of threads remaining and no more than 150mm of untreaded below the threads to allow the upper race to thread down far enough. I've worked with threaded forks and headsets enough to be comfortable with those measurements, but plan to play around with the fork off my other bike (similar dimensions) to double check. Heck, I don't have anything better to do!
Good point. If I go that route (but probably won't), I'm sure I could provide enough information.
Good point. If I go that route (but probably won't), I'm sure I could provide enough information.
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Doug, Is there anything like a registry of independent frame builders? I like the idea of supporting a local frame builder. My general impression (I know, not good to generalize...) is that many of the best frame builders are backlogged and may not be willing to take on a one-off fork when other full builds are in the queue. If I was in need, I'd be happy to throw some business to one of former your pupils, too.
Another thing I've wondered is how you might go about matching a fork to a frame that is sold without a fork. I've always been reluctant to buy a frame sans fork because I assume it may have been crashed, but also because I'm not sure how a non-original fork might affect the ride. Any thoughts or guidance?
Another thing I've wondered is how you might go about matching a fork to a frame that is sold without a fork. I've always been reluctant to buy a frame sans fork because I assume it may have been crashed, but also because I'm not sure how a non-original fork might affect the ride. Any thoughts or guidance?
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just as a matter of fact, even if you were interested in a unicrown fork it will have a taller axle to crown height than that of a classic lugged crown. so, using a uni would throw the front end geometry off a good amount if your frame doesn't originally have one