Website for copying bike fit to a new build?
11-09-20, 06:02 PM
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Website for copying bike fit to a new build?
I'm building up a new gravel bike and I'm wondering if there is a website where you can enter geometry numbers and compare fit side-by-side. I would like to get close to my usual road bike, but the new frame has slightly slacker HT and ST angles (more of an "endurance" road frame). The reach measurements are nearly the same, but the effective TT on the new bike is .5 cm longer. I'd like to be able to visualize my fit on the computer so I can get an initial dail-in on stem length, steerer tube spacers, saddle fore/aft, etc.
11-09-20, 06:08 PM
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11-09-20, 07:00 PM
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The actual frame geometry is not important. You need to measure and duplicate the saddle height and setback from the center of the bottom bracket, the reach to the bars from the center of the bottom bracket(or from the saddle, after you have it set in the proper position) and the saddle to bar drop.
11-09-20, 07:04 PM
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The actual frame geometry is not important. You need to measure and duplicate the saddle height and setback from the center of the bottom bracket, the reach to the bars from the center of the bottom bracket(or from the saddle, after you have it set in the proper position) and the saddle to bar drop.
11-09-20, 07:05 PM
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11-09-20, 07:12 PM
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I use stack and reach measurements, because they are easy to easy to measure on the bike. To duplicate fit, I put the bike on the floor with the front wheel against the wall. Measure distance from the floor to BB and floor to handlebar center. Subtract and you have what I call "handlebar stack". Measure from the BB to wall and wall to handlebar center. The difference is what I call "handlebar reach". You can play with different spacer setups, stem reaches, flip stems over, etc. until you get it right.
I do the same thing with the nose of the saddle and come up with what I call "saddle stack" and "saddle reach". Saddle reach is a negative number, but it is still transferable across bikes. The saddle is the easiest to get right, because height and reach are adjustable with the height and rail adjustment. What I like about the stack and reach methods is that they are completely independent of geometry. If you don't want to measure, one rule of thumb to keep in mind is that a single degree of seat tube angle is about one centimeter of setback.
I do the same thing with the nose of the saddle and come up with what I call "saddle stack" and "saddle reach". Saddle reach is a negative number, but it is still transferable across bikes. The saddle is the easiest to get right, because height and reach are adjustable with the height and rail adjustment. What I like about the stack and reach methods is that they are completely independent of geometry. If you don't want to measure, one rule of thumb to keep in mind is that a single degree of seat tube angle is about one centimeter of setback.
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11-09-20, 07:33 PM
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The actual frame geometry is not important. You need to measure and duplicate the saddle height and setback from the center of the bottom bracket, the reach to the bars from the center of the bottom bracket(or from the saddle, after you have it set in the proper position) and the saddle to bar drop.
Don't ask me how I know
Barry
11-10-20, 08:54 AM
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Just remember that reach can only be compared at the same stack height. Each 10mm of additional stack reduces the reach by about 3mm. If one frame has a shorter stack and needs 20mm of spacer to match another, then subtract 6mm from the reach before comparing to the taller frame. I just bought a new frame with an 18mm shorter stack and 10mm shorter reach. With a 20mm spacer added, the reach is actually 16mm shorter, so it's in between the most common 10mm stem length changes.
