Can't dial in rear shifting
08-26-18, 09:15 AM
#1
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Can't dial in rear shifting
I've not had this problem in the past as usually I can dial in the rear shifting on my bikes perfectly. But this Kona drivetrain is giving me issue. It's a 2011 Kona Lanai, and I'm not sure how decent the 8 speed cassette is. It's had an upgrade with a Deore XT rapid rise rear derailleur. Chain is original. Best bet to just put a new chain on it and go from there?
Original specs: https://www.pinkbike.com/product/kona/2011-Lanai/
Original specs: https://www.pinkbike.com/product/kona/2011-Lanai/
Last edited by FoxMulder; 08-26-18 at 09:21 AM.
08-26-18, 10:34 AM
#2
Steel is real
i'd check the derailleur hanger alignment
if that's out of whack it would be almost impossible to tune in, so that would be the first thing i'd check
if that's out of whack it would be almost impossible to tune in, so that would be the first thing i'd check
08-26-18, 11:08 AM
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i'd check the derailleur hanger alignment
if that's out of whack it would be almost impossible to tune in, so that would be the first thing i'd check
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXfvW0L3iLM
if that's out of whack it would be almost impossible to tune in, so that would be the first thing i'd check
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXfvW0L3iLM
08-26-18, 11:33 AM
#4
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Eyeballing is only good enough for friction shifting.
go to a bike shop , they will check the alignment with the above tool
for less than a cafe lunch costs..
go to a bike shop , they will check the alignment with the above tool
for less than a cafe lunch costs..
08-26-18, 11:34 AM
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Since rear shifting depends on: chain, cassette, shifter cable and housing and shifter, all should be checked for wear and proper setup.
08-26-18, 12:57 PM
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Why did you replace the rear derailleur?
If your answer is anything other than buying your bike a present, I'd suspect derailleur hanger alignment too. The problem with eyeballing the alignment is that it requires a calibrated eyeball.
If your answer is anything other than buying your bike a present, I'd suspect derailleur hanger alignment too. The problem with eyeballing the alignment is that it requires a calibrated eyeball.
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08-26-18, 01:09 PM
#7
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If shifting is inconsistent then in most cases either the lever movement is not being transmitted well to the derailleur (cable/housing friction) or the derailleur is not moving accurately itself (loose pivots/mounting, bent derailleur/hanger. I spent many years evaluating and straightening derailleurs by eye, and I can tell you that once you reach 8+ cogs it is far preferable to use a gauge.
08-26-18, 01:16 PM
#9
Steel is real
08-26-18, 01:30 PM
#10
Steel is real
if there's nothing wrong with the derailleur..i agree with what the other fellas suggest..it's best to check the hanger alignment with a gauge
if you haven't got one, you can make your own for next to nothing...
or you can try using a rear wheel, this got me out of the shyte before i made my own tool..
if you haven't got one, you can make your own for next to nothing...
or you can try using a rear wheel, this got me out of the shyte before i made my own tool..
08-26-18, 02:19 PM
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I once drove myself mad in trying to sort out my shifting and ruled out the hangar alignment for the exact same reasons you are.... and it ended up being the hangar alignment.
Now if I can’t get it adjusted, alignment is the first thing I check before dropping dime on replacing anyrhing. And in most cases, that is the culprit. Second most likely is damage to (or simply worn) cables/housing but that typically ahows different symptoms.
So... check the hangar alignment.
08-26-18, 02:33 PM
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Well, it may be the hanger alignment. But I'll try a chain first. I don't like having to load my bike up on the car and drive it to a bike shop and leave it there...and then have to come back and get it again some other day. Just a major hassle.
I replaced the derailleur several years ago when I got the bike. I put a rapid rise on all my geared bikes because I prefer it over top-normal shifting. When I used to the ride the bike as a mountain bike a few years ago, the shifting seemed good. Can't exactly recall when it started to feel iffy, but I've been riding it more lately and it's become quite noticeable.
I replaced the derailleur several years ago when I got the bike. I put a rapid rise on all my geared bikes because I prefer it over top-normal shifting. When I used to the ride the bike as a mountain bike a few years ago, the shifting seemed good. Can't exactly recall when it started to feel iffy, but I've been riding it more lately and it's become quite noticeable.
08-26-18, 03:18 PM
#13
Steel is real
have you checked the shifter, that's a point to start a process of elimination
disconnect the cable and see if it clicks to all the gears, lol, if it doesn't you need to service it
{you should check for chain play **stretch** really.. before deciding to replace that, and new chains aren't compatible to worn chainrings and sprockets]
disconnect the cable and see if it clicks to all the gears, lol, if it doesn't you need to service it
{you should check for chain play **stretch** really.. before deciding to replace that, and new chains aren't compatible to worn chainrings and sprockets]
08-26-18, 03:33 PM
#14
Steel is real
Eyeballiig it won’t cut it, and it does not matter if you remember any crashes or causes. It just happens.
I once drove myself mad in trying to sort out my shifting and ruled out the hangar alignment for the exact same reasons you are.... and it ended up being the hangar alignment.
Now if I can’t get it adjusted, alignment is the first thing I check before dropping dime on replacing anyrhing. And in most cases, that is the culprit. Second most likely is damage to (or simply worn) cables/housing but that typically ahows different symptoms.
So... check the hangar alignment.
that is the area i focus on if all other components are OK, also the derailleur, i wanted to use this fancy shimano once - forget the model, but it had worn pivot pins
08-26-18, 04:41 PM
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A chain will have to be really worn out to actually cause rear shifting issues. If the chain is actually so worn as to be the culprit here, then save yourself an extra trip and buy a cassette while you are at it, because that thing will be toast as well and not work well with a new chain.
So yeah, measire that chain first.
But even if the chain is stretched beyond replacement spec, there is a good chance that is not the issue,
08-28-18, 01:35 PM
#16
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Well, I put a SRAM PC-850 chain on, and it shifted fine without a single extra adjustment. I'm kind of surprised myself as I was expecting it to be something more.
08-28-18, 01:37 PM
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08-28-18, 06:19 PM
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