caad9, caad10, synapse - tough choice
#51
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However, the 10 is an unknown at the moment. I'm hoping to ride one soon but so far they are not available where I live.
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Cheers and yes, sure is a cult. I`d gone to the bike shop to test ride something else, was about to leave and saw the CAAD 9 there and thought `might as well see what it`s what`s like as won`t be around much longer` and as the cliche goes, the rest is history.
Bikerjp: Best bet is to try the CAAD 10 if you can, then you can put your mind at rest as to the better bike - luckily I was able to do this. Many people seem to like it but I`ve not read one comment on it which mentions the `fun factor`/buzz/ride feel that comes up time after time with CAAD 9 reviews. They mention the lightness and stiffness but like I said before, no other bike has left such a big impression on me as the CAAD 9. If going Rival means you can get the frame colour you want, then that`s what I`d do. Btw, mine is matter black. Really is beautiful. The frame will last longer than the parts, and if you really don`t get along with SRAM I think you only have to change the shifters and rear derailleur to make it Shimano compatible, but check the forums to make sure.
Bikerjp: Best bet is to try the CAAD 10 if you can, then you can put your mind at rest as to the better bike - luckily I was able to do this. Many people seem to like it but I`ve not read one comment on it which mentions the `fun factor`/buzz/ride feel that comes up time after time with CAAD 9 reviews. They mention the lightness and stiffness but like I said before, no other bike has left such a big impression on me as the CAAD 9. If going Rival means you can get the frame colour you want, then that`s what I`d do. Btw, mine is matter black. Really is beautiful. The frame will last longer than the parts, and if you really don`t get along with SRAM I think you only have to change the shifters and rear derailleur to make it Shimano compatible, but check the forums to make sure.
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Now I have never ridden a CAAD bike so I cannot comment on that, however the Ridley being a race bike was plenty stiff as is the CAAD. I think you'd be more comfortable and plenty racey on the Synapse.
#54
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Matter of fact when I told my LBS guy what I picked up, he wanted me to bring it in.
They've been plastering it with upgrades and have been giving me sick deals just to upgrade it.
They even gave me a wicked deal on a set of 2011 Ksyrium Elites to help me complete the bike.
When I take it out in New York City, I can tell who knows about bikes by how they lustfully ogle it.
I get a cool smile from other riders with uber-bikes (especially Cannondale riders).
Another 2 weeks and she'll be 95% complete.
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I'm 46 w/no health issues and good bones/joints - I was in for a CAAD9 and liked it - but then rode the Synapse instead just to know for sure. I thought the CADD was like riding a piece of concrete compared to the Synapse! Needless to say I bought the Syn...slammed the bars, flipped the stem and am rarely passed at 3 hour runs.
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I'm 46 w/no health issues and good bones/joints - I was in for a CAAD9 and liked it - but then rode the Synapse instead just to know for sure. I thought the CADD was like riding a piece of concrete compared to the Synapse! Needless to say I bought the Syn...slammed the bars, flipped the stem and am rarely passed at 3 hour runs.
#59
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That is the big question (and fear). I am pretty much set on the 9. Will give it another go around soon to be sure, but someone mentioned buy the bike for the rider you want to be and not the rider you are. I might be a synapse today, but I'd like to be caad (yep, drinking the koolaid ).
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As I already own a black bike, I found myself quite taken with the 10-4 in white
Does it have a dork ring?
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Demain, on roule!
#62
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On another forum I'm on, there's an LBS owner who says he makes BIG money each year from guys who remove them and then shift the chain into the rear wheel - at least spoke replacement, sometimes rear derailleur and hanger as well, plus labor. Having said that, I just got new wheels (Ultegra hubs, Mavic Open Pro CD rims) a few weeks ago and didn't have one installed.
As for some LBS dealer making money on replacing them, he's probably the same one
who tunes them and then conveniently adjusts them to shift that far back!
Seriously though, it's just one of those things that come on a bike along
with reflectors and clip pedals that MUST come off a bike when purchased.
I just took my dork ring off my bike after having it for 2 months.
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That is the big question (and fear). I am pretty much set on the 9. Will give it another go around soon to be sure, but someone mentioned buy the bike for the rider you want to be and not the rider you are. I might be a synapse today, but I'd like to be caad (yep, drinking the koolaid ).
The argument isn't which is better, but rather which is better for the type riding you want to do.
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Well, I think I've got the answer. I'm buying the one that is more fun and doesn't hint at being a "pain". I'll lose weight and get in shape on any of them - provided I ride it.
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I just got the bike I wanted and rode and rode and rode and rode
and the pounds just kept coming off only without me really noticing.
I was having too much fun.
You'll start to notice progress when you reach your own personal milestones.
Some of them are longer riding distance, increased speed, less rest stops.
All good stuff that contributes to the addiction of riding.
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Well, I put a deposit on a caad9-4 to hold it but will ride it and couple others this weekend to be sure. One thing I haven't considered much is size. Everything I rode so far was a 58 - that's what each lbs put me on. At 6'3" with a 36" inseam I could probably do a 60 as well. Haven't had a chance to ride one yet and not even sure the lbs has one. What's the general rationale behind a smaller vs larger size if you are kind of in between? I know I need to ride them, but with limited experience it's often hard to know how it will feel after months of riding. Just wondering if there are any general rules I should be aware of. I did some Googling and found some people my size talking 60 vs 63 so that has me wondering even more. Thanks again.
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Better to go with a smaller bike and longer stem rather then a larger bike and shorter stem. The shorter stem will screw up steering handling.
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Correct. The flip side would be the smaller frame with its shorter head tube, necessitating more and even possibly too many stem spacers. In choosing a frame size, the smaller/larger frame option is determined by a number of factors including:
- overall rider flexibility
- leg to torso length proportions (long/short torso, short/long leg)
- projection of medium term changes of rider position
What the OP and other new riders need to realize and take into consideration, is that if they become serious in their riding, in all probability they may want to replace their first bike in a year or two. That and the fact that trying to get a proper fit is definitely a roll of the dice. It may work out, it may not.
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That is the concern. As it is, I enjoy riding it but it has all the spacers and the stem is the "wrong way". I seriously doubt I would be comfortable riding it with the spacers removed. But a larger bike might be no better. I was just wondering about the "theory" behind it so I have enough information to make an informed decision. This helps. Thanks.
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As it is, I enjoy riding it but it has all the spacers and the stem is the "wrong way".
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Whenever I tell my bike buddies what I got, I get the same reaction. A lustful gasp.
Matter of fact when I told my LBS guy what I picked up, he wanted me to bring it in.
They've been plastering it with upgrades and have been giving me sick deals just to upgrade it.
They even gave me a wicked deal on a set of 2011 Ksyrium Elites to help me complete the bike.
When I take it out in New York City, I can tell who knows about bikes by how they lustfully ogle it.
I get a cool smile from other riders with uber-bikes (especially Cannondale riders).
Another 2 weeks and she'll be 95% complete.
Matter of fact when I told my LBS guy what I picked up, he wanted me to bring it in.
They've been plastering it with upgrades and have been giving me sick deals just to upgrade it.
They even gave me a wicked deal on a set of 2011 Ksyrium Elites to help me complete the bike.
When I take it out in New York City, I can tell who knows about bikes by how they lustfully ogle it.
I get a cool smile from other riders with uber-bikes (especially Cannondale riders).
Another 2 weeks and she'll be 95% complete.
Whenever I tell my bike buddies what I got, I get the same reaction. A lustful gasp.
Matter of fact when I told my LBS guy what I picked up, he wanted me to bring it in.
They've been plastering it with upgrades and have been giving me sick deals just to upgrade it.
They even gave me a wicked deal on a set of 2011 Ksyrium Elites to help me complete the bike.
When I take it out in New York City, I can tell who knows about bikes by how they lustfully ogle it.
I get a cool smile from other riders with uber-bikes (especially Cannondale riders).
Another 2 weeks and she'll be 95% complete.
Matter of fact when I told my LBS guy what I picked up, he wanted me to bring it in.
They've been plastering it with upgrades and have been giving me sick deals just to upgrade it.
They even gave me a wicked deal on a set of 2011 Ksyrium Elites to help me complete the bike.
When I take it out in New York City, I can tell who knows about bikes by how they lustfully ogle it.
I get a cool smile from other riders with uber-bikes (especially Cannondale riders).
Another 2 weeks and she'll be 95% complete.
BIKERJP: The thing with the sizing for the CAAD 9 is that it is not proportional so the bigger size isn`t bigger in all areas than the smaller size, hence oyu could probably fit a 58, 60 or 63. The 58, 60 and 63 all have different top tube sizes, but the seat tube angle changes so the effective difference in reach is only .5 - 39.9 vs 40.4 vs 39.9. Checkout slowtwitch for explanations of stack and reach. The stack varies so this needs to be taken into account when calculating the final reach figure.
Having all the spacers in and the stem turned up isn`t a problem - it`s only one of those macho cycling image things that dislikes it. Plus, it does allow the option of removing them later. As the others say, if the bike fits you as it is, then a bigger size isn`t required.
#72
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Well, I took the caad and synapse out again and I really can't tell much difference in the comfort level. Both are somewhat uncomfortable and I suspect it would be that way with any drop bar road bike until the body gets used to it. I've decided to get the one that seems more fun and that's the caad. Also, I can get a good price on one with Rival. Rode it for the first time and then rode 105 and what a difference. Rival is very easy to use and the hoods are comfortable. Brakes seem to work better too. I'm sticking with the 58 and leaving it stock. With pedals the shop weighed it at 18.3 lbs. Now I just have to figure out how to pay for it
Thanks for all the feedback.
Thanks for all the feedback.
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Interesting thread - I am in a similar situation slightly overwhelmed with all the choices.
LBS can line up CAAD10-5, Carbon 6, Synapse carbon and a Giant carbon - all in the 1500 to 2000 price range.
I just need the time to go in and give them all a test ride. It is interesting that you did not notice much difference in comfort level between the CAAD and the Synapse. My biggest "fear" is that I will test ride these 4 bike and none of them will jump out at me as the obvious choice for my situation.
LBS can line up CAAD10-5, Carbon 6, Synapse carbon and a Giant carbon - all in the 1500 to 2000 price range.
I just need the time to go in and give them all a test ride. It is interesting that you did not notice much difference in comfort level between the CAAD and the Synapse. My biggest "fear" is that I will test ride these 4 bike and none of them will jump out at me as the obvious choice for my situation.
#74
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Interesting thread - I am in a similar situation slightly overwhelmed with all the choices.
LBS can line up CAAD10-5, Carbon 6, Synapse carbon and a Giant carbon - all in the 1500 to 2000 price range.
I just need the time to go in and give them all a test ride. It is interesting that you did not notice much difference in comfort level between the CAAD and the Synapse. My biggest "fear" is that I will test ride these 4 bike and none of them will jump out at me as the obvious choice for my situation.
LBS can line up CAAD10-5, Carbon 6, Synapse carbon and a Giant carbon - all in the 1500 to 2000 price range.
I just need the time to go in and give them all a test ride. It is interesting that you did not notice much difference in comfort level between the CAAD and the Synapse. My biggest "fear" is that I will test ride these 4 bike and none of them will jump out at me as the obvious choice for my situation.
#75
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I'm sure an experienced rider would notice a big difference, but never having spent much time on a road bike I don't know what to look for. I started looking at $1200 bikes and soon found myself at $2000 and up and started to realize that the first bike I buy will be just that - a first bike. Why invest a lot on something that is an unknown. So I went back to lower priced bikes and found the caad and synapse which both rode quite nice for alu. The caad is a well-known bike and if I end up not liking it I should be able to sell it fairly easy. It also "jumped out" as the one that was the most fun. It's quick and lively and I'm more likely to ride if I have fun. Just ride lots of bikes and as you narrow it down ride those several more times.
Interestingly, I was talking to the lbs owner and he had some doubts about the CAAD10 selling well. At $1500 for the 105 equipped model it's getting close to the price of lower end carbon bikes, 2010 carbon 6 and the carbon synapse and similar from other manufactures. He didn't say that the carbon bikes were better - just that most customers, looking in this range, would not have a problem with another $200 or $300 to get to a carbon frame.
Anyway - when I get the time I want to ride them all and I will post pictures of whatever I end up with.