Best way to cut steerer tube?
06-17-20, 06:44 PM
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I cut my steering tube with a fiber laser cutting machine . I want to tell you that this is something surprising, this machine can not only smoothly cut metal, but also has a sharp cut that made it possible to perfectly cut the pipe. I was told that a laser metal cutting machine has many different possibilities for working with metal, such as drilling, cutting and marking in small sizes.
06-17-20, 07:28 PM
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I cut my steering tube with a fiber laser cutting machine . I want to tell you that this is something surprising, this machine can not only smoothly cut metal, but also has a sharp cut that made it possible to perfectly cut the pipe. I was told that a laser metal cutting machine has many different possibilities for working with metal, such as drilling, cutting and marking in small sizes.
06-17-20, 07:41 PM
#28
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The OP says he's near a Trek store, so a hardware store can't be far off. A hacksaw is cheaper than a high quality pipe cutter that can handle 1" high strength steel.
You can make your own cutting guide, if you have access to some tools, that's better than a pipe clamp. Take a stub of 2x4, bore a 1" hole through it with a drill press, then cut a perpendicular slot with a circular saw or table saw.
You can make your own cutting guide, if you have access to some tools, that's better than a pipe clamp. Take a stub of 2x4, bore a 1" hole through it with a drill press, then cut a perpendicular slot with a circular saw or table saw.
06-17-20, 10:20 PM
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Look at Park Tools and at the tool board of any reputable LBS and you will NOT find a pipe cutter for steer tubes. They simply are NOT used. Think about it, pipe cutters are fast and make a nice square end edge, so shops would use them if they were the right way to do it. They are not. You MAY have cut yours successfully, but trust me, this is NOT the tool to use.
Pipe cutters do two things to metal tubes: They cut by pressure, manually manipulating the metal, which increases the diameter of the end of the tube as they cut as well as put a round protrusion on the inside edge of the cut. The pipe cutter cold works the metal as it cuts, so doing this to aluminum, and especially heat-treated aluminum is simply a bad idea. Installing a star nut, or other fastener will be difficult or impossible unless you re-size the inside edge. But more importantly is what a pipe cutter does to the top 1/4" of the tube. You may have difficulty fitting headset spacers and the stem over the top of the tube, which would require resizing the OD. This SHOULD be done on a lathe, but who would do that? Instead, the average mechanic would use a file to get the proper OD. This obviously introduces all sorts of inconsistencies to the tube diameter. Not what you want when depending on stem clamps to maintain headset bearing preload, and secure fit.
And obviously, carbon cannot be cut this way.
So to anyone reading this thread, the industry-approved way to cut tubes is with a sharp hacksaw blade, cutting oil and a guide. A file is then used to finish the end and chamfer the inside and outside edges. A Dremel can be used as well. A grinder can be used, but with caution because it's easy to remove too much material and affect your final cut length.
Pipe cutters do two things to metal tubes: They cut by pressure, manually manipulating the metal, which increases the diameter of the end of the tube as they cut as well as put a round protrusion on the inside edge of the cut. The pipe cutter cold works the metal as it cuts, so doing this to aluminum, and especially heat-treated aluminum is simply a bad idea. Installing a star nut, or other fastener will be difficult or impossible unless you re-size the inside edge. But more importantly is what a pipe cutter does to the top 1/4" of the tube. You may have difficulty fitting headset spacers and the stem over the top of the tube, which would require resizing the OD. This SHOULD be done on a lathe, but who would do that? Instead, the average mechanic would use a file to get the proper OD. This obviously introduces all sorts of inconsistencies to the tube diameter. Not what you want when depending on stem clamps to maintain headset bearing preload, and secure fit.
And obviously, carbon cannot be cut this way.
So to anyone reading this thread, the industry-approved way to cut tubes is with a sharp hacksaw blade, cutting oil and a guide. A file is then used to finish the end and chamfer the inside and outside edges. A Dremel can be used as well. A grinder can be used, but with caution because it's easy to remove too much material and affect your final cut length.
Every shop I worked at usually had some old Rigid pipe cutter laying around. We rarely used it, primarily due to the cutters were always trashed. A single cut on aluminum was usually enough to damage them. A few years back we were assembling a Colnago, I forget if it was a Master or an Arabesque, but the Colnago factory rep happened to show up at the shop right around the time we were cutting the steerer. He started yelling at us in mixed Italian & English when he saw the saw guide and hacksaw, and started circling one hand around the other. We finally figured out he wanted us to use a pipe cutter. One of the other mechanics found it and set it on the bench and the rep was happy. I guess they didn't get the memo either.
06-17-20, 10:36 PM
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11-10-20, 10:59 AM
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I'm replacing my forks. The new one needs to be cut. I think I understand that.
My questions,
1) I should be able to remove and reuse the bearing race from the old fork, shouldn't I?
2) Is that star nut removable/reusable? I'm thinking no, and I'll need a new one.
3) After I remove the old bearing race, I just need to measure the old tube and cut the new one to the same length, correct?
I'm just making sure before I proceed.
My questions,
1) I should be able to remove and reuse the bearing race from the old fork, shouldn't I?
2) Is that star nut removable/reusable? I'm thinking no, and I'll need a new one.
3) After I remove the old bearing race, I just need to measure the old tube and cut the new one to the same length, correct?
I'm just making sure before I proceed.
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11-10-20, 11:22 AM
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1. Yes, the "crown race" should be removable from the old fork and transferred to the new one. Be careful to pry or tap it loose evenly around it's circumference or use a specific crown race removal tool to avoid distorting it.
2. Yes, you will need a new star nut. They are usually removed destructively and are not reusable.
3. Yes, unless you want to change your bar height and/or are using a new stem with a different clamp height. I recommend cutting the new one a bit longer and riding the bike that way to see if you want to make any changes. Once you are sure the bar position is where you want it, make a final steerer cut.
2. Yes, you will need a new star nut. They are usually removed destructively and are not reusable.
3. Yes, unless you want to change your bar height and/or are using a new stem with a different clamp height. I recommend cutting the new one a bit longer and riding the bike that way to see if you want to make any changes. Once you are sure the bar position is where you want it, make a final steerer cut.
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11-10-20, 11:24 AM
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In case this hasn't been mentioned.....Do NOT use a pipe cutter on a carbon steerer, If you are going to cut a carbon steerer make sure you have a blade made for cutting carbon or a hacksaw blade with at least 32 TPI.
11-10-20, 11:35 AM
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What I'm really asking is: roller tube cutter vs. saw and guide?
So, I've got this new fork and I need to cut the steerer down to size. I could just take it over to the Trek dealer nearby and have them do it for me for a small fee (they'll probably even do it for free for a longtime customer,) or I could buy the tools I need and do it myself (which is... just better.)
I had some experience cutting piping when I worked at my late mechanical engineer dad's shop way back when, which is why I'd rather have the cleaner, rounder, more precise cut that I believe a quality roller cutter can produce compared to the rougher, less precise cut of a saw, even if it has been used with a guide.
That said, I can buy a quality roller tube cutter locally and use that, whereas I'll have to order a saw guide online if I go the saw-and-guide route.
The steerer in question is steel, which may or may not matter as to which of the two cutting methods is best.
So, could you fellow wrenchers give me guidance? (excuse the pun
)
So, I've got this new fork and I need to cut the steerer down to size. I could just take it over to the Trek dealer nearby and have them do it for me for a small fee (they'll probably even do it for free for a longtime customer,) or I could buy the tools I need and do it myself (which is... just better.)
I had some experience cutting piping when I worked at my late mechanical engineer dad's shop way back when, which is why I'd rather have the cleaner, rounder, more precise cut that I believe a quality roller cutter can produce compared to the rougher, less precise cut of a saw, even if it has been used with a guide.
That said, I can buy a quality roller tube cutter locally and use that, whereas I'll have to order a saw guide online if I go the saw-and-guide route.
The steerer in question is steel, which may or may not matter as to which of the two cutting methods is best.
So, could you fellow wrenchers give me guidance? (excuse the pun
)
11-10-20, 12:32 PM
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I merely hacksawed mine (steel). I am not OCD, so it just had to be short enough to not be annoying, and long enough to allow for some adjusting (with spacers). I then obviously filed down the edges - mostly because of potential stress-risers.
For cutting CF I have a Dremel-like tool with CF cuting wheel - "diamond", I think. haven't had a steerer made from CF, but have cut other CF tubes with it. I just drew a line with a paint marker and cut along that. If you're OCD, that is probably not the way to do it.. I also file those things down to stop stress risers, and usually use a little epoxy or superglue to close the ends of the cut fibres so it won't wick moisture (which then freezes and delaminates the thing - potentially).
For cutting CF I have a Dremel-like tool with CF cuting wheel - "diamond", I think. haven't had a steerer made from CF, but have cut other CF tubes with it. I just drew a line with a paint marker and cut along that. If you're OCD, that is probably not the way to do it.. I also file those things down to stop stress risers, and usually use a little epoxy or superglue to close the ends of the cut fibres so it won't wick moisture (which then freezes and delaminates the thing - potentially).
11-10-20, 12:42 PM
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I'm replacing my forks. The new one needs to be cut. I think I understand that.
My questions,
1) I should be able to remove and reuse the bearing race from the old fork, shouldn't I?
2) Is that star nut removable/reusable? I'm thinking no, and I'll need a new one.
3) After I remove the old bearing race, I just need to measure the old tube and cut the new one to the same length, correct?
I'm just making sure before I proceed.
My questions,
1) I should be able to remove and reuse the bearing race from the old fork, shouldn't I?
2) Is that star nut removable/reusable? I'm thinking no, and I'll need a new one.
3) After I remove the old bearing race, I just need to measure the old tube and cut the new one to the same length, correct?
I'm just making sure before I proceed.
1. Yes, the "crown race" should be removable from the old fork and transferred to the new one. Be careful to pry or tap it loose evenly around it's circumference or use a specific crown race removal tool to avoid distorting it.
2. Yes, you will need a new star nut. They are usually removed destructively and are not reusable.
3. Yes, unless you want to change your bar height and/or are using a new stem with a different clamp height. I recommend cutting the new one a bit longer and riding the bike that way to see if you want to make any changes. Once you are sure the bar position is where you want it, make a final steerer cut.
2. Yes, you will need a new star nut. They are usually removed destructively and are not reusable.
3. Yes, unless you want to change your bar height and/or are using a new stem with a different clamp height. I recommend cutting the new one a bit longer and riding the bike that way to see if you want to make any changes. Once you are sure the bar position is where you want it, make a final steerer cut.
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11-10-20, 05:38 PM
#37
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More like decent new super-car. A kW scale fiber laser will cost around $100-500k. But it's useful when you need the steer cut down by EXACTLY 20.3mm.
11-10-20, 07:38 PM
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I use both a pipe cutter and a saw/cutoff wheel. Use the pipe cutter to cut it part way marking a perfectly square ring, than switch to an angle grinder to make the final cut.
Best of both worlds, square edge and no ridge to ream
Best of both worlds, square edge and no ridge to ream
11-10-20, 08:12 PM
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I've always cut metal steerers with a hacksaw, but if I had a pipe cutter at hand I'd probably use it to just mark the steerer and then cut it with the hacksaw - similar to above.
11-21-20, 08:36 PM
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...if the support rebound is gone, and you can't get parts to rebuild it, it's junk.
If you could get the parts to rebuild it, not sure why you bought a new fork.
If you could find the parts to rebuild the old one, but it was cheaper and easier to buy a new one, the old one is still junk.
If you could get the parts to rebuild it, not sure why you bought a new fork.
If you could find the parts to rebuild the old one, but it was cheaper and easier to buy a new one, the old one is still junk.
11-22-20, 07:26 AM
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...if the support rebound is gone, and you can't get parts to rebuild it, it's junk.
If you could get the parts to rebuild it, not sure why you bought a new fork.
If you could find the parts to rebuild the old one, but it was cheaper and easier to buy a new one, the old one is still junk.
If you could get the parts to rebuild it, not sure why you bought a new fork.
If you could find the parts to rebuild the old one, but it was cheaper and easier to buy a new one, the old one is still junk.
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