Pure Fix Original Fixie pedal hits wheel
#27
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+1
That’d be a very unusual damage to a jumped bike.
Bikes jumped beyond capacity tend to splay out, not compress. Only way I can see such a damage occurring from jumping is if someone would misjudge speed/distance and nosedive straight into the landing ramp. Or failing to clear a double.
That’d be a very unusual damage to a jumped bike.
Bikes jumped beyond capacity tend to splay out, not compress. Only way I can see such a damage occurring from jumping is if someone would misjudge speed/distance and nosedive straight into the landing ramp. Or failing to clear a double.
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But the strongest reason I agree is for looks.
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Can’t say if it’s stock, but 170 mm cranks are certainly common enough.
Then you’re basically looking at a wheel build. Do you know how to do that?
Sanding one layer of paint off accurately enough to leave the underlaying layer of paint fit for use would take some pretty serious skill.
A chemical strip may have greater chance of success.
Then you’re basically looking at a wheel build. Do you know how to do that?
Sanding one layer of paint off accurately enough to leave the underlaying layer of paint fit for use would take some pretty serious skill.
A chemical strip may have greater chance of success.
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Anyone good enough to ride a fixed gear (fgfs) over a ramp or dirt jump probably has some kind of custom bike by that point because of the broken parts leading up to that skill level.
I think the person slammed into something head on. Doesn't take much to bend hi-ten. He could have also jumped off of the bike and then it ghost rode into a wall or something.
I don't think anyone in this particular sub-forum does any kind of trick biking (there's an fgfs subforum that gets a post once every few years or so).
Some people (like me) may have a bmx background and may mess around once in a while but I am assuming that most just like to ride.
I think the person slammed into something head on. Doesn't take much to bend hi-ten. He could have also jumped off of the bike and then it ghost rode into a wall or something.
I don't think anyone in this particular sub-forum does any kind of trick biking (there's an fgfs subforum that gets a post once every few years or so).
Some people (like me) may have a bmx background and may mess around once in a while but I am assuming that most just like to ride.
Last edited by BicycleBicycle; 07-27-19 at 12:59 PM.
#32
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"We design our bikes to have 1 colored spoke for aesthetic reasons.
It looks cool and is always easy to locate where your valve is on the wheelset. "
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I find that looking for the valve is an easy way to locate the valve on the wheelset, but hey.
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I had a shop use a similar "tool" on an Electroforged Stingray (the Midget) that had a mildly bent fork. Worked like a charm and never had an issue after the fact. The shop owner loved the bike and only charged me $5. I'd be more cautious with a bike bent as bad as the OP's, or with a lightweight frame. I doubt heavy frames would have an issue, especially with a lightweight rider who's not into jumping curbs.
#35
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So being the way I am, this was bugging me to no end, so I had to do something. I read the epic 5 page thread from Kurt showing the results of the HTS-1, and I didn't like the results. I decided to not bother with straightening the frame and figured I'd focus on the forks, because my 'bike bro' gave me some really nice ($$$) pedal straps (for free) and I wanted to use them but didn't want to kill myself with the insane toe/pedal overlap I had going on originally.
I really wasn't planning on attempting this today, but as I sat in the garage after putting the straps on and realizing I wasn't going to be able to use the straps with the fork bent so aggressively, I started looking around the garage to see how I could engineer a fork straightener. That's when I noticed the elliptical. The fork ends fit perfectly in the little nook at the bottom. I made the upside-down V with the bike and elliptical, and then put all my weight on the top tube and started bouncing the bike downwards with my 220lbs of body weight. I wasn't making too much progress so I got a bit more aggressive with my down-stroke. On the last one, I knew I had probably given it a little too much mustard.
It's amazing how steel works. The bulges on the underside of both the top and bottom tubes are gone, however, there is now a rather large lump on the top tube and the frame is now bent upwards instead of downwards. I inspected for cracks and aside of the chipped paint, there are no discernible cracks. I checked the welds as well. I'll be removing the fork tomorrow to check for cracks there, but I think it will hold up with light riding until I trash it in a couple of months. I'm literally going to saw it in half so no one can try to salvage it or re-sell it because it's a "Pure Fix Yo".
I wanted to share because I know some people are interested in these experiments. I was surprised to tell you the truth. I really had no intention of bending the frame back (too far back in this case) and thought I was just bending the forks. Hi-ten frame is like spaghetti. My straps are worth more than the bike.
All that said, I really miss the aggressive stance of the initial crashed version of this bike. It was more fun to ride. It feels rather pedestrian now compared to how it was before. Gave me insight into the geometry I want when I decide to purchase something serious. Enjoy.
Parc HTS-2
Steel is real.
A bit too real...
Fork is stronger than this frame.
That clearance though.
I really wasn't planning on attempting this today, but as I sat in the garage after putting the straps on and realizing I wasn't going to be able to use the straps with the fork bent so aggressively, I started looking around the garage to see how I could engineer a fork straightener. That's when I noticed the elliptical. The fork ends fit perfectly in the little nook at the bottom. I made the upside-down V with the bike and elliptical, and then put all my weight on the top tube and started bouncing the bike downwards with my 220lbs of body weight. I wasn't making too much progress so I got a bit more aggressive with my down-stroke. On the last one, I knew I had probably given it a little too much mustard.
It's amazing how steel works. The bulges on the underside of both the top and bottom tubes are gone, however, there is now a rather large lump on the top tube and the frame is now bent upwards instead of downwards. I inspected for cracks and aside of the chipped paint, there are no discernible cracks. I checked the welds as well. I'll be removing the fork tomorrow to check for cracks there, but I think it will hold up with light riding until I trash it in a couple of months. I'm literally going to saw it in half so no one can try to salvage it or re-sell it because it's a "Pure Fix Yo".
I wanted to share because I know some people are interested in these experiments. I was surprised to tell you the truth. I really had no intention of bending the frame back (too far back in this case) and thought I was just bending the forks. Hi-ten frame is like spaghetti. My straps are worth more than the bike.
All that said, I really miss the aggressive stance of the initial crashed version of this bike. It was more fun to ride. It feels rather pedestrian now compared to how it was before. Gave me insight into the geometry I want when I decide to purchase something serious. Enjoy.
Parc HTS-2
Steel is real.
A bit too real...
Fork is stronger than this frame.
That clearance though.
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#37
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This has been an interesting thread.
Looks like the steel stretched, and when you bent it back it didn't "unstretch", thus causing a bubble.
Hope it works out. If I was riding it, I would check the tubes often for cracks.
I see a lot of parts you can keep around as backups or even to sell if the need ever arises.
Cranks with the BB easily for $15. I'd pay $15-20 for a set of temporary cranks to put on a nice frame I bought.
Wheels for $30. Lot's of people trying to convert their bikes to fixed or put wheels on a frame that they couldn't afford yet (to later replace said wheels with sick ones).
Or you can find a really cool frame you like for money later and just throw ALL the parts on there.
Looks like the steel stretched, and when you bent it back it didn't "unstretch", thus causing a bubble.
Hope it works out. If I was riding it, I would check the tubes often for cracks.
I see a lot of parts you can keep around as backups or even to sell if the need ever arises.
Cranks with the BB easily for $15. I'd pay $15-20 for a set of temporary cranks to put on a nice frame I bought.
Wheels for $30. Lot's of people trying to convert their bikes to fixed or put wheels on a frame that they couldn't afford yet (to later replace said wheels with sick ones).
Or you can find a really cool frame you like for money later and just throw ALL the parts on there.
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#38
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All that said, I really miss the aggressive stance of the initial crashed version of this bike. It was more fun to ride. It feels rather pedestrian now compared to how it was before. Gave me insight into the geometry I want when I decide to purchase something serious. Enjoy.
Parc HTS-2
Steel is real.
A bit too real...
Fork is stronger than this frame.
That clearance though.
Parc HTS-2
Steel is real.
A bit too real...
Fork is stronger than this frame.
That clearance though.
+1.
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If it feels pedestrian now, that's just how a bike handles when it's not a crumpled wreck.
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#43
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Meh. Nothing bad is gonna happen if you aren't jumping/bashing the bike around. Even if it does start to bend or crack, you'll notice long before deadly failure with regular visual checks. This is steel, not crabon fibbers.
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#46
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