Nice rack...
#1
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Nice rack...
Hi there, slightly embarrassing question here but what hardware do I need in order to install a rear rack properly? I ask because every time I attempt to attach mine with a bolt and nut, the nut invariably prevents me from shifting to the smallest rear cog or off of it. Pictures of your setup are much appreciated and I thank you for entertaining my newb-ness.
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Mine are attached with (I think) M5 bolts, and my dropouts are threaded to match. I've had a longer than necessary bolt that I cut off with a Dremel so it wouldn't interfere.
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same. On my commuter, I installed the rack and cut off the end of the bolt leaving a few threads in case it starts backing out and I don’t catch it right away.
#4
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I don't think you need the nut. The attachment point should be threaded itself, so it doesn't need a nut on the back end. You just screw right into it.
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Don't get discouraged. Setting up a rack can be tricky. Take your time. It may take more then a few tries ta get it right...
Make sure you use Stainless Steel bolts and lock-nuts. Most put the lock nuts facing out. Many have had to drill out a threaded lug to adapt a better fit.
Make sure you use Stainless Steel bolts and lock-nuts. Most put the lock nuts facing out. Many have had to drill out a threaded lug to adapt a better fit.
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#6
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Another alternative if you can't readily cut your bolt shorter, or find a shorter one to use, is to add a washer or extra nut on the outer side to shorten its effective length.
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Blue loctite (it comes in a red tube which is always confusing) and split washers
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OP has a classic bike so the threads might be long gone destroyed by some prior owner
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I've your mounting holes aren't threaded, then you can put a cap head bolt in from the inside and use a nylon lock nut on the outside to keep it from coming loose. The smaller, rounded head of the bolt will help to reduce or prevent interference with the chain. Otherwise, the design of having threaded mounting holes is to just have the bolt barely come through the other side, no lock nut needed just a lock washer between the bolt and rack.
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I make my own racks now, and they have an eyelet built in for the fenders. I got that idea from Tubus, but I'm not sure which of their racks have the rack mounted eyelet.
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reading through now, thanks for these ideas!
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Whether the backside nut, the threadlock, the lock washer, or anything else works depends on how your frame was done in the first place and how it is now after a long service life already. You might not need all of them but you could...
belt and suspenders
belt and suspenders
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Gotta have all the bases covered, I guess, except for a shirt. Too funny!
Last edited by jaxy357; 08-02-23 at 12:50 PM. Reason: forgot to add something about his shirt
#16
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You can use a bolt with a flat head on it and reverse it so the nut is sticking out the other side.
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A pic of your specific setup might be helpful. There's no standardization of how bikes are configured for racks, so it could come down to dealing with your particular bike.
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Not a lot of space between the frame and the cog. You could try what @timdow suggests. Otherwise, get a longer screw with a nut, thread the screw through until it just sticks out the other side, then tighten with the nut.
Or a slightly longer screw and progressively add more and more washers until it's just right.
This is a place where you want full thread engagement because racks tend to wiggle, and the screws will want to come loose.
Or a slightly longer screw and progressively add more and more washers until it's just right.
This is a place where you want full thread engagement because racks tend to wiggle, and the screws will want to come loose.
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If you're just commuting and not carrying a lot of weight maybe try a seatpost rack? They simple attache to the exposed seatpost, there are no struts going down from the rack to be attached to eyelets near the rear dropouts. They'll hold about 15 lbs IIRC (no weight limit on mine).
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#21
Miles to Go
Seatpost rack is a good idea.
If you end up wanting a standard rack, as I suggested above you can put a bolt like this one in backward:
You will probably have to pull the wheel to do it. Cheap and easy solution.
If you end up wanting a standard rack, as I suggested above you can put a bolt like this one in backward:
You will probably have to pull the wheel to do it. Cheap and easy solution.
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I think it's time for you to stop asking us, go to the hardware aisle and figure it out
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I take it that you require a nut because these holes are not tapped?
Your situation doesn't get better if you were to reverse a bolt inserted from the cogs' side.
It is always a bad idea to have anything and I mean anything in-between the dropouts, even if there is clearance.
Get those untapped holes properly tapped either M5 or M6, and then use screws of exact length so that it flushes to the inside of the drops.
That bike rack has holes big enough for either screw.
Your situation doesn't get better if you were to reverse a bolt inserted from the cogs' side.
It is always a bad idea to have anything and I mean anything in-between the dropouts, even if there is clearance.
Get those untapped holes properly tapped either M5 or M6, and then use screws of exact length so that it flushes to the inside of the drops.
That bike rack has holes big enough for either screw.
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Sorry for the radio silence. Hubby did this for now and no issues after 15 or so miles.