meb

Is anybody building bikes with the S2C on it yet?

Dynocoaster 

I havent seen any yet but there is a built wheel on Ebay right now.

miamimike

I looked for it on eBay and found plenty of Sturmey archer Hubs but not the S2C. Do you have a link? Thanks [QUOTE=Dynocoaster;11277074]I havent seen any yet but there is a built wheel on Ebay right now.[ /QUOTE]

Dynocoaster 

https://cgi.ebay.com/Brompton-Folding...ts_Accessories

miamimike

Dynacoaster--Thanks for the Url! Just what I was looking for!

BruceMetras

AE BIKE lists the hubs for $54 ..

Dynocoaster 

Thanks Bruce, ordered one.

meb

That link is for the steel B2C. AEBike has the aluminum S2C for $55: https://aebike.com/product/sturmey-ar...u2218-qc30.htm

nonale

I just recieved a new Sturmey Archer B2C (black steel shell vs polished aluminum) hub from Sage Cycles. I am excited to build it into my comfy 1-spd beach cruiser commuter. For me, the advantage of this hub should be cable free overdrive, and reliable all weather operation. I am a little anxious about learning how to discriminate between the shift and the brake-it'll be fun to master this skill. If it flies, I may consider running a small 28-32?T chainring and knobbies/studs/chains and potentially a front drum brake for winter.

Current Build Challenges:
1: My frame, which currently fits a 112mm OLD hub, is a little narrow for the new 116mm SA hub. Unlike hand bending an old steel touring frame for a wider hub, This steel Nirve frame has VERY large tubes, and I'm no incredible hulk. I have yet to figure out the ideal bending process. Perhaps I could find a very compact scissor car jack and jack out the dropouts? Use a little heat and Krylon touchup? Note, SA makes a narrow 110-ish kickback hub that would fit, but it doesn't come with a brake.

2: playing with the hub in hands, there seems to be a lot of rotational resistance. Anybody else notice this? The minimal info from SA doesn't hint at any type of adjustments, and I already tried adjusting the drive side axle bearing cone. Is there a break in period? Does it roll well when built? It is a brand new hub, and it is likely that I'm a guinea pig, testing new waters. I e-mailed Sunrace-USA, I'll let y'all know if/what I find out.

3: the larger, overdrive bearing on the drive side of the hub seems rather exposed, with a seemingly modest loose metal cap for protection. This cover is not inspiring a lot of seal-out confidence in me, I may go vigilante and carefully apply some silicone calk on my final install of the dust cover.

4: Cheap, wide (1.25") balloon tire rims are hard to buy as a stand alone part! I'm starting to appreciate why custom bike builds are so expensive-this will be one expensive cheapo beach cruiser, but likely worth the comfort and spinal health. I'll definately grab 2 or 3 rims when I find the right one -In the near future, with overdrive, I may want a matching rim for a front drum/disc brake

Schwinnsta

I have not tried this for this application but you could use 5/16" all thread rod with two nuts and washers to cold bend fork. To push the forks apart have the washers on the outside of the nuts pressing up against the inside of the fork and use the nuts, via a wrench to push the forks apart. Do a little at a time and unloosen and check progress by taking measurements.

On my old Schwinn cruiser, I changed out the original Bendix single speed coaster brake to a Nexus 7 speed. I was able to do this just by using pulling the forks apart by hand and having my son put the wheel in while I pulled them part. I don't think there was any actual yielding. I also installed an SA front drum bike again just by hand. I would be leery of trying this on an aluminum frame.

I later went back to single speed and no problems from bending forks apart.

Dynocoaster 

Thanks for the heads up i got it changed just in time.

BruceMetras

True, but the steel hub version also shows as 10g lighter than the aluminum... wonder if that is accurate?

Dynocoaster 

Those specs are from the website. the alloy hub now comes in different colors.
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/produc.../id/55/specs/1
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/produc.../id/56/specs/1

nonale

[QUOTE=Schwinnsta;11293224]I have not tried this for this application but you could use 5/16" all thread rod with two nuts and washers to cold bend fork. To push the forks apart have the washers on the outside of the nuts pressing up against the inside of the fork and use the nuts, via a wrench to push the forks apart. Do a little at a time and unloosen and check progress by taking measurements.

Schwinnsta, thanks for the tip, I actually just thought of this saturday, maybe it's a good idea, provided the axle doesn't slide around too much under torqing. I have been warned by a welder friend to stay away from the torch! When I have time next week, I'll give it a go and probably post a full review when I've ridden the new hub. I'll probably substitute an old, bolt on rear axle for the all-thread. (most axles are a bit wider than 110mm) I'm anticipating straightening the dropouts back to parallel when I get the proper width down (channel locks, bench vise, etc), as I would expect they will be slightly flared out after bending.

Dynocoaster 

Received my hub yesterday. Can I take a wheel and remove the hub and install the new hub to that wheel using the same spokes? Both wheels are 36H.

SesameCrunch

Depends on the size of the hubs (Pitch Circle Diameter), whether the hole are the same diameter on both hubs. The S2C has a 67mm diameter. Also, very much on the condition of the spokes and nipples. (Could depend on whether your lacing to the same spoke pattern, too.) I have certainly re-used spokes when I was certain of their condition.

Spokes and nipples are relatively cheap, so many would err on the side of caution and just put new ones in.


I ordered two S2C's too. Should be getting them today. Have to decide which bike to put them on!

Dynocoaster 

The wheelset is new and I havent done this before so I thought I should ask questions before I start. Did you get your hubs from AE Bike also?

puppypilgrim

SesameCrunch,

Please keep us apprised on the S2Cs and how they ride and whether there is perceptible drag in freewheel mode. I put a call to my LBS but they haven't come available in Vancouver, Canada yet. Anytime now. Cost is $100 Canadian :-(

SesameCrunch

Ok, will let you know. My vintage Duomatic has some drag to it. Not huge.

nonale

Hi all, my build is proving to be an arduous process, though I'm reporting as I go on my blog. and also here I'm building the steel version of the S2C (B2C), mostly because it is black.

Joako

There is some drag, but the efficiency improves after a short break-in period. I rode it for about 30 miles and could feel a big difference on the efficiency. The brake is strong enough on a Brompton, and having no cables looks great and makes the folding a bit easier.

SesameCrunch

I would love to see a picture of a Brompton without the cables going to the back. Do you have a picture you can share?

Herndobler

The Duomatics are coming in this month!!! I got a single that's going to be a double with a coaster brake real soon! No brake cables, No shifter cables!

waxnomadic

Has anyone used a Duomatic without the coaster brake? Is it possible to backpedal at all like a normal freewheeled bike, or is the shifting business too weird to even do it? I mean...is there any advantage of the non-coaster version, if you don't mind having a separate rear brake?

Herndobler

You can back pedal. However, when you do you are "shifting gears". No big deal, but you may hear it shifting.