kracksmith

I have a 2008 Specialized Globe Centrum Elite IG3 and plan to install a CYC X1 Pro Gen2 electric kit to it for the 3000 watts version. I need to know the kind and size of the tool to remove the crank arms and chainring so i can get the bottom jack shaft off of it.

I think i will mainly only need 2 of the mention specialty tool as i work on my own honda and have plenty of other tools for this job.

thanks in advance.

andrewclaus

Without seeing the crank and bottom bracket, a guess would be 1) a crank extractor like the Park CCP-22, and 2) a bottom bracket tool like the BBT-22. Be aware the right side of the bottom bracket has a left-hand thread, as does the left pedal.

Phil_gretz

A reliable multimeter for voltage and continuity?

veganbikes

Specialized makes a whole line of reliable durable e-bikes you should check them out before going down the kit bike rabbit hole.

alcjphil

You might want to rethink running a 3000 watt motor with a 3 speed internal gear hub. It was never meant to withstand that sort of power

kracksmith

thanks for all your input guys, really helped out.

I prefer not to buy a new e-bike as the cost of a 3000 Watts would be way over my budget and i really like my style bike. as for the 3spd hub, if i don't' plan to bash this ride i assume it should be ok? from what i understand, the internal hub gear is locked in place and ill be gunning it when i have some decent speed, or if this 3speed internal gear is that delicate i will just need to baby the throttle.

cxwrench

I predict a thread titled "I broke my 2008 Specialized Globe Centrum Elite IG3 frame" in 30-60 days.

alcjphil

3000 watts is a very powerful motor. 3000 watts is about 10 times as powerful as what an elite cyclist can put out continually. Your bike is not designed for a setup like that.

kracksmith

breaking what? would it be the 3000watts torque off the line racing cars from a signal light, or would it be the 20 miles trip at full speed?

I don't think i would do either one of those. I prefer a powerful motor when needed to be there to not pedal going up hill, also giving it some throttle from 10 to 40 once in awhile isn't going to break the 3spd hub.

I'm comparing the same logic as putting in a v8 in a 1985 toyota trunk. The power for pick up speed is there going on a fwy on ramp. or giving it some throttle going up a steep hill. but yes if i use this trunk with V8 to drag race, or race top speed for awhile, yes things will break.

I do understand more watts available the more chances i will use it, and this drains the battery worst. so maybe i should just tone it down and get the cyc x1 pro stealth which is 1500 watts. i'm looking for more distance really than power and speed.

3alarmer 

.
...I don't understand why you would not perform this conversion (given your stated objectives), by simply buying one of those swell purpose built electric hubs and building a drive wheel around it (usually you see them added in the front). I think you can buy them already built into a wheel as well. It's nowhere near 3000 watts, but it seems to be popular with the e-bike crowd.

Have you asked your question in the special, dedicated e-bike forum here ? I'm going to assume they know a lot more than I do about using an electric motor to propel your bicycle.

3alarmer 

...not certain whether you have ever had a 3 speed IGH apart, to repair something internal ? I don't know your particular hub, but in the SA 3 speed hubs I've dismantled and rebuilt, the most likely points of failure under this sort of loading would be either the pawls or the clutch pins. No idea about the internals of yours, but maybe you can find a picture online.

There are a lot off Youtube videos on servicing SA 3 speed hubs. If you look at one, you'll see what I'm talking about in terms of the places where the force is applied to small parts.

kracksmith

Sorry yes this post kind of lead off topic. My original questions was just about tooling. I'll go check out that forum.

To answer your question. I don't like hub motors, for balancing sake, I like mid engine driven motor. Plus I like the reputable company CYC which is well designed and built. I'm shooting for the 3000 watts version but may reconsider to the 1500 watts stealth instead. I'm looking for distance and avoid all possible to use too much battery in a trip.

The 3spd that I have is a Shimano SG-3C41 IG3-speed, still not sure how durable this is for a e-bike but again, not bashing it when I ride. Just casual throttle it when needed.

What I like about this bike is the styling and how nimble it is with the lightness, and 26" rims. I may need to go to a wider tires through. So someday if I don't want the electric engine I can convert it back to stock. What i don't want is many bikes to own, I don't have the spacing for the storage. Also electric bike technology develops at a super fast pace. If I were to buy a e-bike, 3-5 years from now, it'll surpass what I would of bought, then it's like every 4 years I would have to buy a new ebike and they aren't cheap for a good mid motor drive. This kit will allow me to just sell the older kit and buy a newer kit. Buying and selling electric bike kit is much cheaper and easier to sell with less money lost when sold.

fooferdoggie 

plus its far more then needed. my bosch puts out nominal 300 watts though. guess the peak is around 600 and I can climb 20% grades with it. I never found it under powered expect on super steep grades and those are few and far between.

3alarmer 

...sorry, but I honestly do not understand how having a hub placement for your motor upsets "balance".
If anything, from what little I know about the physics of this balance issue from Bicycling Science, a hub placement for all that weight ought to be preferable to a motor added to the frame.

As for the rest off what you presume above, if you build a wheel around the hub motor, you can use any rim and tyre you desire.

I can find fewer easier and more sensible conversion options than these wheels. Again, from my own knowledge and experience base. Which with e-bikes is close to zero.

kracksmith

"front hub placement for your motor upsets balance"

Well, for one if you're in a bit of loose gravel, or a bit of oil, front bike tire can peel out and you could fall from it. Going around turns fast could be unstable. Gears stuck or whatever stops the motion for a front wheel drive 2 wheeler is deadly. Front wheel drive car, ok. But 2 wheel drive having a front wheel pulling, I rather not chance it. Cost could be just 500-700 less overall. So for 500-700 more why not get something that looks nicer, mid motor driven, and it'll be a normal rear wheel drive 2 wheeler?

I'm not against anything else out there, I have looked at all options and came to choose the CYC X1 Pro Gen2 or the Stealth model Price difference is only 200 so i might just go for the 3000 watts engine. Yes once in awhile if i'm in a rush or a dog chasing me especially going up hill, I'll throttle fast from 10mph to close to top speed (40mph) in a straight away. I don't see this hurting my old 2008 bike in anyway if i don't bash it. For the most part, I'll just be cruising and enjoying the bike ride but when needed I want power to be there for me. Also this mid engine kit i want to get doesn't seem very hard to install too.