Shimano Nexus-7 service
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times
in
222 Posts
Shimano Nexus-7 service
Hi guys,
I'm looking to flip a bike with a 7-speed Nexus hub.
Doesn't seem to be heavily ridden, but its been left outside - no roof - for a considerable time.
Only thing that's obviously wrong is the indicator in the shifter that's out of synch.
Any pointers on how to fix that?
While riding, it does feel like all gears engage as they should, but it also feels like the hub runs "dry" - if that comparison is understandable.
Do these hubs dry out and need relubing?
Do I need to pull it apart for that?
I've looked at the disassembly instructions, and it didn't look too bad.
Is it that simple, or are there any hidden complications?
(I have worked on IGHs before, replaced an axle on a S-A 3-speed for instance)
Or should I leave well enough alone and sell as-is?
I'm looking to flip a bike with a 7-speed Nexus hub.
Doesn't seem to be heavily ridden, but its been left outside - no roof - for a considerable time.
Only thing that's obviously wrong is the indicator in the shifter that's out of synch.
Any pointers on how to fix that?
While riding, it does feel like all gears engage as they should, but it also feels like the hub runs "dry" - if that comparison is understandable.
Do these hubs dry out and need relubing?
Do I need to pull it apart for that?
I've looked at the disassembly instructions, and it didn't look too bad.
Is it that simple, or are there any hidden complications?
(I have worked on IGHs before, replaced an axle on a S-A 3-speed for instance)
Or should I leave well enough alone and sell as-is?
#2
Senior Member
The inside does need to be regreased/oiled, as they come from the factory greased (and sparsely, at that). The procedure is fairly simple, as you've noted; pull the cassette joint, sprocket, and RH dust cover (snap-on or screw-on, left hand thread, depending on the model), unfasten the left cone entirely, allowing the internals to be withdrawn from the hub shell. You don't touch the RH cone/wheel bearing during normal service (and indeed, it's not possible on most Shimano IGHs, without the proper drifts to remove/install it).
The proper grease is fairly thin stuff. I imagine finding a local supply of something thin enough would be difficult enough that you should just bite the bullet and buy the Nexus grease. For home service, without total disassembly of the internals, you should drop them in/otherwise inundate then with oil; ATF is a popular choice, if not wildly off label usage...20wt non-detergent oil works fine (so, 3-in-1 small-engine oil).
The easiest way of dealing with it, without a dipping vessel, is to grease the LH bearing, grease the bearings/clutches on the internals, then tilt the hub shell on its axis, so the bottom of the right and left bearing races are level with each other. Nearly fill the space you created (a few mm below spilling), then insert the internals, and install the left cone (don't flip the wheel RH side down while doing this). Grease the hell out of the exposed bearing on the RH side, then put the dust cover back on, followed by all the other stuff, and adjust the LH bearing as necessary.
The proper grease is fairly thin stuff. I imagine finding a local supply of something thin enough would be difficult enough that you should just bite the bullet and buy the Nexus grease. For home service, without total disassembly of the internals, you should drop them in/otherwise inundate then with oil; ATF is a popular choice, if not wildly off label usage...20wt non-detergent oil works fine (so, 3-in-1 small-engine oil).
The easiest way of dealing with it, without a dipping vessel, is to grease the LH bearing, grease the bearings/clutches on the internals, then tilt the hub shell on its axis, so the bottom of the right and left bearing races are level with each other. Nearly fill the space you created (a few mm below spilling), then insert the internals, and install the left cone (don't flip the wheel RH side down while doing this). Grease the hell out of the exposed bearing on the RH side, then put the dust cover back on, followed by all the other stuff, and adjust the LH bearing as necessary.
#3
Senior Member
"Do these hubs dry out and need relubing?
Do I need to pull it apart for that?"
I have an inter 8 bike. The factory lube was very dry/stiff grease. It did get a dry feeling after some time. To lube it without disassembling all the tiny parts, pull out the whole mechanism, from the drive side, and lube it with gear oil in an oil bath. I used generic gear oil, as the Shimano oil is very expensive, and I just brushed the oil on the mechanism with a brush. Worked out very well.
From my experience you can not "fill the hub with oil". I tried that, but the oil leaked out the big black seal/dust cover in the drive side. You can try it out, but be prepared for some clean up. I believe dunking/brushing it generously and letting it drip for at while, before reassembly, is the way to go.
Do I need to pull it apart for that?"
I have an inter 8 bike. The factory lube was very dry/stiff grease. It did get a dry feeling after some time. To lube it without disassembling all the tiny parts, pull out the whole mechanism, from the drive side, and lube it with gear oil in an oil bath. I used generic gear oil, as the Shimano oil is very expensive, and I just brushed the oil on the mechanism with a brush. Worked out very well.
From my experience you can not "fill the hub with oil". I tried that, but the oil leaked out the big black seal/dust cover in the drive side. You can try it out, but be prepared for some clean up. I believe dunking/brushing it generously and letting it drip for at while, before reassembly, is the way to go.
Last edited by Racing Dan; 03-12-17 at 06:16 AM.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times
in
222 Posts
Pulled the hub apart today. Found the culprit. DS wheelbearing dry. Probably should be replaced. No parts available. Settled for a clean and lube instead. Disassembly became a bit more thorough than intended. Fumbled a bit at the first reassembly attempt. Didn't think of which way I held up. And suddenly had parts all over the floor.
Am awaiting the results of the test ride with some trepidation...
Am awaiting the results of the test ride with some trepidation...
#6
Overdoing projects
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Rotterdam, former republic of the Netherlands
Posts: 2,397
Bikes: Batavus Randonneur GL, Gazelle Orange Excellent, Gazelle Super Licht, Gazelle Grand Tourist, Gazelle Lausanne, Gazelle Tandem, Koga-Miyata SilverAce, Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller
Mentioned: 58 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 784 Post(s)
Liked 1,238 Times
in
686 Posts
1. Go to Sheldon Brown's website for maintenance manuals and part lists so you know what goes back where.
2. Go look up the part number on Hollandbikeshop.com and get the necessary replacement parts. There are a ton of bikes with these hubs driving around and while they should be pretty bomb proof (most Dutch people just leave them standing outside most of the time) but they certainly appreciate a bit of love from time to time.
3. Triple check your gearing cable settings. If they are slightly off the hub will feel like crap.
2. Go look up the part number on Hollandbikeshop.com and get the necessary replacement parts. There are a ton of bikes with these hubs driving around and while they should be pretty bomb proof (most Dutch people just leave them standing outside most of the time) but they certainly appreciate a bit of love from time to time.
3. Triple check your gearing cable settings. If they are slightly off the hub will feel like crap.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 261
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
To adjust the 7 speed Nexus gears there's usually an indicator near the hub-wire end. Mine had a two red marks that should be aligned to get adjustment right. The shifter was to be set for 4. gear when adjusting, but this migh vary a bit between models. I have sneakily opened the side of 7 speed Nexus hubs and added oil meant for the Alfine hub, as well as another synthetic oil. It works fine, but it needs to be added now and then, and it's a bit of a fuzz to have the wheel, and parts off to get access to the inners.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times
in
222 Posts
I found the service manual a bit misleading. Mine showed a hub w/o the attachment for the shifter cable, but with the DS locknut in place. Not really a "natural" configuration IMO.
Anyhow, I found enough 3/16" balls to replace the DS wheel bearing, so I went ahead with that. The new balls stuck a lot better in the cage, so I think I'm OK there. Hub felt considerably smoother. It seems to shift OK, although I tend to run out of consistent road conditions before I've really sampled all the gears.
So I think I'm good, and thanks for all pep and support.
Anyhow, I found enough 3/16" balls to replace the DS wheel bearing, so I went ahead with that. The new balls stuck a lot better in the cage, so I think I'm OK there. Hub felt considerably smoother. It seems to shift OK, although I tend to run out of consistent road conditions before I've really sampled all the gears.
So I think I'm good, and thanks for all pep and support.
#9
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The inside does need to be regreased/oiled, as they come from the factory greased (and sparsely, at that). The procedure is fairly simple, as you've noted; pull the cassette joint, sprocket, and RH dust cover (snap-on or screw-on, left hand thread, depending on the model), unfasten the left cone entirely, allowing the internals to be withdrawn from the hub shell. You don't touch the RH cone/wheel bearing during normal service (and indeed, it's not possible on most Shimano IGHs, without the proper drifts to remove/install it).
The proper grease is fairly thin stuff. I imagine finding a local supply of something thin enough would be difficult enough that you should just bite the bullet and buy the Nexus grease. For home service, without total disassembly of the internals, you should drop them in/otherwise inundate then with oil; ATF is a popular choice, if not wildly off label usage...20wt non-detergent oil works fine (so, 3-in-1 small-engine oil).
The easiest way of dealing with it, without a dipping vessel, is to grease the LH bearing, grease the bearings/clutches on the internals, then tilt the hub shell on its axis, so the bottom of the right and left bearing races are level with each other. Nearly fill the space you created (a few mm below spilling), then insert the internals, and install the left cone (don't flip the wheel RH side down while doing this). Grease the hell out of the exposed bearing on the RH side, then put the dust cover back on, followed by all the other stuff, and adjust the LH bearing as necessary.
The proper grease is fairly thin stuff. I imagine finding a local supply of something thin enough would be difficult enough that you should just bite the bullet and buy the Nexus grease. For home service, without total disassembly of the internals, you should drop them in/otherwise inundate then with oil; ATF is a popular choice, if not wildly off label usage...20wt non-detergent oil works fine (so, 3-in-1 small-engine oil).
The easiest way of dealing with it, without a dipping vessel, is to grease the LH bearing, grease the bearings/clutches on the internals, then tilt the hub shell on its axis, so the bottom of the right and left bearing races are level with each other. Nearly fill the space you created (a few mm below spilling), then insert the internals, and install the left cone (don't flip the wheel RH side down while doing this). Grease the hell out of the exposed bearing on the RH side, then put the dust cover back on, followed by all the other stuff, and adjust the LH bearing as necessary.
Itīs not mine, is from a friend. She asked for help and i though it shouldnīt be so difficult. Big mistake. First i saw a tutorial where it recomended fully dissasemble the sproket side for cleaning. Now i have a nut that if i thight it the sprocket stops turning freely, if i let loose, the mechanism wobbles.
Thatīs the first problem. The second, i did the oil bath and the mechanism started to roll much worse. Donīt know what happened, i used ATF oil. Wonder if someone had a similar problem or have a clue on what to do.
Thanks in advance.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Eastern Poland
Posts: 743
Bikes: Romet Jubilat x 4, Wigry x 1, Turing x 1
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 194 Post(s)
Liked 204 Times
in
151 Posts
...Now i have a nut that if i thight it the sprocket stops turning freely, if i let loose, the mechanism wobbles.
Thatīs the first problem. The second, i did the oil bath and the mechanism started to roll much worse. Donīt know what happened, i used ATF oil. Wonder if someone had a similar problem or have a clue on what to do.
Thanks in advance.
Thatīs the first problem. The second, i did the oil bath and the mechanism started to roll much worse. Donīt know what happened, i used ATF oil. Wonder if someone had a similar problem or have a clue on what to do.
Thanks in advance.
For the second issue, some hubs only work with sparse lubrication.
#11
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the answer and sorry for my english.
I have solved the first issue. The nut is supposed to sit in a kind of shoulder the axle has. My problem was that one of the pieces below was not fitting correctly on it's place. Found it, placed it and now i can adjust the nut withoul compromising the wheel turning.
For the second problem, i was skeptical with the oil bath but i saw Shimano has a videos about this process with a very similar model. I have been cleaning the excess of oil, put the grease back and assembled the hub. It turns pretty well, it shifts, but it also drags a lot (pedals keep turning). It didnīt happen so much when i did the oil bath so maybe it is necessary. Donīt know for sure, the oil bath leaves a great excess of oil that have been leaking and kind of dissolving the grease i put on the other attemps of assembling.
Now that i know how to assemble the hub properly maybe i'll give another try to the bath and see if the drag gets any better.
I have solved the first issue. The nut is supposed to sit in a kind of shoulder the axle has. My problem was that one of the pieces below was not fitting correctly on it's place. Found it, placed it and now i can adjust the nut withoul compromising the wheel turning.
For the second problem, i was skeptical with the oil bath but i saw Shimano has a videos about this process with a very similar model. I have been cleaning the excess of oil, put the grease back and assembled the hub. It turns pretty well, it shifts, but it also drags a lot (pedals keep turning). It didnīt happen so much when i did the oil bath so maybe it is necessary. Donīt know for sure, the oil bath leaves a great excess of oil that have been leaking and kind of dissolving the grease i put on the other attemps of assembling.
Now that i know how to assemble the hub properly maybe i'll give another try to the bath and see if the drag gets any better.
Last edited by 28027; 10-26-20 at 07:01 PM.
#12
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the answer and sorry for my english.
I have solved the first issue. The nut is supposed to sit in a kind of shoulder the axle has. My problem was that one of the pieces below was not fitting correctly on it's place. Found it, placed it and now i can adjust the nut withoul compromising the wheel turning.
For the second problem, i was skeptical with the oil bath but i saw Shimano has a videos about this process with a very similar model. I have been cleaning the excess of oil, put the grease back and assembled the hub. It turns pretty well, it shifts, but it also drags a lot (pedals keep turning). It didnīt happen so much when i did the oil bath so maybe it is necessary. Donīt know for sure, the oil bath leaves a great excess of oil that have been leaking and kind of dissolving the grease and put the other attemps of assembling.
Now that i know how to assemble the hub properly maybe i'll give another try to the bath and see if the drag gets any better.
I have solved the first issue. The nut is supposed to sit in a kind of shoulder the axle has. My problem was that one of the pieces below was not fitting correctly on it's place. Found it, placed it and now i can adjust the nut withoul compromising the wheel turning.
For the second problem, i was skeptical with the oil bath but i saw Shimano has a videos about this process with a very similar model. I have been cleaning the excess of oil, put the grease back and assembled the hub. It turns pretty well, it shifts, but it also drags a lot (pedals keep turning). It didnīt happen so much when i did the oil bath so maybe it is necessary. Donīt know for sure, the oil bath leaves a great excess of oil that have been leaking and kind of dissolving the grease and put the other attemps of assembling.
Now that i know how to assemble the hub properly maybe i'll give another try to the bath and see if the drag gets any better.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Shahmatt
Bicycle Mechanics
5
07-26-16 10:51 PM
Clyde1820
Bicycle Mechanics
7
02-17-15 07:01 AM