Bikeltg

I'm looking at updating from my perfectly fitted 1991 (or 1992) Diamondback Master TG road bike (Pink w Black flecks) to a hybrid and considering 2021 Cannondale Quick 3 Women. Is this a good transition? Same quality ride, components, fit and feel? Looking to pre-order bc of Covid-19, so can't try it first.
Thank you!
Loren

mstateglfr 

The bikes will feel completely different.

Components are totally different.
Geometry is totally different.
Fit and feel will be totally different.

It could be a good new bike, but there is literally nothing that is the same.

Bikeltg

Thank you for your reply. I appreciate your sharing your knowledge of the two bikes with me.
Is Cannondale Quick 3 totally different than DB Master TG as in it's a worse ride? Not as much shock absorption, harder to shift gears? Will bikes feel totally different more than just because one's road and one's hybrid (upright bars)? Or is due to different manufacturers?
If I went with Diamondback hybrid, would there be less of a difference in fit and feel?
If I upscaled to Quick 1 with Shimano 105 components would that close the gap in bikes feeling so different?
Again, I appreciate your experience.

Maelochs

Any hybrid bike is going to feel much different than a road bike.





As you can see by comparing the two photos, the bikes are radically different.

According to what i can find the DB has a steel frame and either a 2x7 or 2x10 drivetrain. The Quick 3 probably comes with a 9-speed, which is a 2x9. The gearing on the Quick3 will be lower, which means it is easier to go up hills but you won't be able to go quite so fast. Not saying fast is good, just saying.

The Quick has mechanical discs, which based on my experience, stop about as well as good rim brakes such as the DB has. The discs work better when wet.

The DB is steel, which tends to offer a very comfortable ride considering it is ... well, metal. Steel is springy which absorbs some road chatter---which can be an issue with skinny-tire bikes.

However, the Quick is all aluminum. I tend to stay clear of Al forks because they have zero compliance---you will feel Every bump, every pebble, every crack.

On the other hand the Quick has wider, higher-volume tires, which will buffer a lot of that.

The Quick, according to what I have found, will be several pounds heavier than the DB (about 20 vs about 26 lbs.) Neither is a heavy bike.

The biggest difference is riding position. The Quick will force you to be more upright---which is neither good nor bad. It might put less strain on your back and stomach in the short run, but demand more of your lower back on longer rides. However, for shorter rides, you might feel more relaxed because you will not be using your torso so much.

The drop bars on the DB offer multiple hand positions, which can be a real plus on longer rides but on shorter rides ... . say 25 miles or less, the flat bars on the Quick should be just about as comfortable. You can add bar ends which offer different grips if you plan to do many longer rides.

The Quick will put you right in the wind. In essence, your body will be a big sail, an air brake, while the DB will tend to keep you leaning lower, under the wind. it will take a little more effort to ride the Quick at higher speeds. If you plan to cruise around at 12-15 mph as a rule, it won't be a huge difference.

The Quick will probably handle a little sluggishly compared to the DB. With more of the weight toward the back, and more relaxed geometry, the Quick simply won't be as quick. However, if you don't plan on racing the bike will be fine.

On the whole, the Quick will feel more relaxed when just cruising, and maybe a little slow and heavy when trying to go a bit more quickly. The DB will feel a little more racy, and whether it is comfortable depends more on your fitness. Which is better depends on what you plan to do with it.

With wider tires and lower gearing, the Quick would be a better choice for dirt roads, but I wouldn't take it on serious mountain-bike trails. it is more meant for any flattish surface---riding across a field, down a groomed forest path, a rail-to-trail gravel/dirt road .... the DB will work well enough in those settings, but the narrow tires and forward-balanced weight might make the front end dig in, and the bumps might be a bit much.

If you want a bike which feels like the bike you have, you probably would want to get a bike which looks like the bike you have---a road bike with drop bars. However, there is nothing special about any kind of bike---maybe you will feel right at home on the Quick.

I have been riding for a long time, and I have ridden a lot of bikes. I have put thousands of miles on flat-bar commuters (actually rigid mountain bikes) and more thousands of miles on drop-bar road bikes. The both can work wonderfully on the road. The real difference is personal preference.

I strongly suggest you try to find Any shop within driving distance which will let you do test rides. Compare a hybrid to a road bike and see for yourself which you like better.

Bikeltg

Maelochs:

A-MAZING feedback!

Thank you so much for your detailed breakdown of differences in two bikes. You make so many good points that I wasn't taking into account in my purchase of a hybrid and of the Quick 3 specifically. I will definitely take your advice and do test run prior to purchasing. I don't usually drop $1K without test run. The Covid-19 bike shortage is making me an "irrational buyer'.

To clarify, I'm effectively looking to transition to "upright bars on road bike" due to developing carpal tunnel syndrome. Already had surgery on left wrist. Riding upright seemed better option to keep my hands from going numb. Alternatively, I've thought about changing handlebars to uprights on my Master TG.

I'm looking at a new bike to go riding on the rail trails and backroads up in the beautiful Mid and Southern Berkshires (some dirt roads and rolling hills, not mountains or off-road). I want good performance on uphill, speed is not as critical. On average, I ride 10-15 mph, mostly 12 mph. I keep my Master TG in NYC (indoor/outdoor exercise).

I've been renting a hybrid out of Berkshire Bike and Board (Specialized Alibi C, only hybrid available) and riding flat rail trails, so far. I like the stability and ride of a hybrid but, agreed it's not the same easy ride as the Master TG. I thought a new hybrid would be lighter and better choice given it's more stable and better on dirt roads with thicker tires. Apparently there's a lot of trade offs I didn't consider, including that Quick 3 is heavier, even with aluminum frame.

Basically, as a road cyclist for past 30 years, I'm looking for best hybrid ride I can find, not exactly like road bike ride but, still a fun ride. Maybe I should just add upright handlebars and thicker tires on my Master TG!

Thanks again for taking the time to research the bikes and provide your experience and insight to my ask for help.
Totally beyond helpful and much much appreciated!
Loren

2cam16

Hi Loren, not sure about your Master TG but I have a 1990 running on 25mm tires and the clearance from the brakes is very close so not sure if you'll be able to run thicker/bigger tires.
Good luck though and keep us up to date on your decision!

Bikeltg

Hi Rob

Good point about bigger tires and thanks for the note! I already have wider tires on my Master TG, likely same 25 mm as you.

When I purchased Master TG, as a novice, I customized bike with wider tires, extra low gear for the uphill and a more cushiony seat, apropos for a woman. Agreed that these adjustments don't really qualify bike to use on uneven dirt roads, as I've taken spills on uneven road-to-shoulder gaps making room for a passing car.

I appreciate your taking time to pass along the advice. I've got some research and test riding to do.
Any suggestions for hybrid bikes that you own or like are welcome!

Thnx much!
Loren

2cam16

You're welcome,Loren. Unfortunately I don't ride hybrids,yet. lol I ride mtb and road. The only hybrid I own is an older 90's Specialized Crossroads which I converted into my drop bar gravel bike. Wish I could help you more!

Maelochs

I'd say, not being a hybrid owner either .... but having stayed at a Holiday Inn .... by which I mean that I did a lot of commuting on bikes which would now be considered hybrids---you want the same things in a hybrid as any bike, and need to know the same things.

First, where, when, how much, and how often you plan to ride. Good pavement, bad pavement, packed dirt, loose dirt with gravel, ... mud or dry or sandy? How big and how frequent are the hills?

How long might you ride? Will you want to bring a jacket and cap, a small lunch, a camera? Of just some arm-warmers and the minimal tools/tubes/pump to be self-sufficient? Around here a cool-weather ride might demand a jacket in the morning and evening, so if I plan to be up early and ride long (ish) or start late and ride into twilight, I need to be prepared. Some summer days I will drink 40+ ounces of water in three hours, and likewise, need to be prepared.

Some bikes are set up from the factory with mounting points for a rear rack, and some also for a front rack. Most come with two bottle cage mounts, except small frames might only have one, and some have three. If you might want to bring a load of stuff on some rides, or go shopping, or commute and bring a change of clothes and a lunch to work, you will want a bike with at least rear ack mounts.

Also, do you plan to ride daily? on weekends? Are your legs up to the mileage? How about the climbing? if you spend a lot of time riding, particularly up hills, you will want lower gears. if you plant o ride slowly, again, lower gears. if you plan to ride hard, if you plan to be an athlete/cyclist, higher gears might suit you better.

For pretty much any bike, lighter is somewhat better .... the more the bike weighs, the more you have to carry up hills. However there are sensible limits. You can get a very light bike if you pay a lot of money .... and if you are not using it to maximum capacity, then it won't offer any real benefits over a bike weighing a few pounds more and costing a few thousand dollars less. Your 20-pound DB is just fine. My Fuji Sportif was about 21 pounds stock, with lights, pump, rear rack, tools extra tubes, two bottle cages, a food bag and a little food .... weighs about 27 pounds. I find it more comfortable and just as effective as my much more expensive carbon-fiber sport bikes, which weigh five or seven pounds less.

A 26-pound hybrid would probably weigh 32 or 35 (or more) loaded and ready to ride. To me that is a little porky, but still rideable. My Cannondale tourer weighs about 35 ready to roll with lights, water, tools and tubes and such. But still .... a lighter bike (to me) feels better. My Fuji only works for me because I laid out a few hundred dollars on some lightweight carbon-fiber wheels. it felt sluggish with the stock wheels. The Cannondale is also sluggish .... but it is more, shall we say... "Stately." it is a Cadillac converted into a pick-up truck---it is not a sports car. Still, for daily riding, I much prefer my lighter bikes. The feel more responsive, and I feel like I am getting more return on energy invested.

Sorry to ramble on .... some people (we call them "weight weenies") will spend ridiculous (IMO) money to save a few grams of weight. i'd say, shoot for lighter rather than heavier, but realize that a pound isn't a big deal. a 22-pound bike is probably going to feel about the same as a 19-pound bike and cost a lot less.

I recommend carbon fiber forks, or steel as a second choice. Aluminum forks are a little cheaper but a lot harsher, as a rule.

Tre width is important. Most bikes can only fit tires up to a certain width. if you are riding terrible pavement and sand and mud and loose gravel, ou might want 47-mm or so tires (around 2 inches.) These will be heavy and sluggish on pavement but will keep you rolling on most terrain. Also if you like to dawdle along a 7 mph, smelling the roses (and this is a fine and valid way to ride) then the wide tires will provide comfort.

Most people riding dirt or gravel recommend 32-38-42 mm, with 38 mm as a standard, from what I have seen.

If you plan to ride mostly on pavement with some dirt, 32s or even 28s will be fine.

Disc brakes are okay ... they add a little weight but for hydraulic brakes, have tremendous stopping power, and for cable discs, the same braking capacity as really good rim brakes, but they are more reliable when wet, incase you ride off-road , cross streams, or ride in the rain. Good rim brakes can stop a bike in just about any conditions, even if they take a tiny bit longer when soaking wet. Basically, if your bike has brakes, you are fine.

I met a guy a while back with a Giant Fastroad (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bikes-fastroad-sl) The bike looked great, and after looking at the specs .... it looks like a good place to start. This website (https://www.roadbikerider.com/best-h...ikes-are-fast/) has an article about hybrids which might be useful, too.

I also recommend BikesDirect (https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/hybrid_bikes.htm) to get solid off-brand bikes of decent quality. but please be aware that these bikes (as with any mail-order bike) and will need minor assembly.