TXsailor

Only people on here would understand a old white guy getting excited about finding purple nail polish in the mail today. Thanks Tony!

RobbieTunes

Great news, TXSailor.

Did you ever run into txvintage? Also a sailor, the USN kind. Also named Tony.

RobbieTunes

Also, as this is the information thread.

Looks like a cult member has picked up a "Centurion" tri bike used by Mike Pigg in a couple of triathlons, the yellow '88 "fade" model.
Definitely the '88 paint job, plus the decals used by pro's.

It's made by Zunow, painted up as Centurion. Very cool find.

TXsailor

I haven't ran into txvintage but maybe I will. We are the lake kind of sailors not the real kind.

TXsailor

How many things can you see that are wrong with this E-bay ad?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Centurion-M...frcectupt=true

texaspandj

It looks good but not in "pristine" condition. The main concern, (for me anyway), would be the price and that head tube that appears to be repainted.

TXsailor

What caught my eye was that its supposed to be 55cm but measures 23" and that its "all original" but has Continental Ultra-Sport tires, Winsipta bars & stem. I figured you sharp eyed experts would spot more.

seedsbelize 

The first thing to catch my eye is the white hoods, followed by the white tape.

RobbieTunes

It's a 54cm, per the ad and picture.

Perhaps overpriced. But I like it. Looks clean enough.

The head tube is, indeed, painted, but the decal is still there?
Odd. Appears to be a good job, though I wonder what that hides.

Yep, those are not the OEM Nitto B115 bars (Olympiade).
Winpista was on the Lemans.

I'm ok with the tires. The OEM tires were awful.

If it were local, I'd go toss $250 at him.

TXsailor

Don't get me wrong I like the bike and it does look nice. I have just been reading the E-bay/Craig's list thread and have been very entertained by it. By those standards its not really that bad a ad. I also have been learning a lot about the Ironman from you guys. I knew you would spot things I never knew to notice.

texaspandj

It appears to be a 54 cm.
Those tires are Not original.
The Winpista bars and stem were OEM on the '89 Masters.

TXsailor

Maybe he needs a new tape measure. I was going off the specs on the first page for the bars and stem unless I read it for a different year.

texaspandj

Or maybe he measures differently.

RT probably just pasted the bar and stem brand because on that same page it shows a magazine page showing components and with winpista bars. Also my '89 Master came with them.

markwesti

Although I really like the seat post (needs paint in the flutes) that is not stone cold stock either . Or maybe it is stock ?
Centurion Ironman Master (1987-1989)

RobbieTunes

I've had two '89 Masters and 3 '89 Experts. All had the Nitto B115 bars. I'm wondering if dealers installed them....

Vintage_Cyclist

From a 'Bicycling' magazine review of the 1989 Expert. Not sure where I got this from. Probably somewhere here.

top506

105 shifts better, Far, far better.

Top

RobbieTunes

Wow, I'm definitely corrected.

I'm guessing there was some parts swapping on mine. I've only seen 2-3 Winpista bars, ever, and perhaps I'm the one who believed the B115 was OEM, to the point I put them on everything.

Yeah, that's it. Sure. Yeah.

I'm getting old... yep.

RobbieTunes

+1

Lighter
Quicker
More "reliable."
Because the GPX has stronger springs, deeper "detents" (on the R), you sometimes over-shift because you have to use BIG muscles.

The GPX can be improved 50% with a Shimano freewheel, but the shifting action is more "meaty."

When the GPX settles that chain on a cog, you know it.

THUNK. Not click. THUNK.

canklecat

Ditto, RobbieTunes' description of the GPX. Good components but the springs seem to have excessive tension for the job.

First thing I did was switch from indexed to friction shifting. I tried indexed shifting for a few months but the tension was so strong it produced an audible KERKLUNK!, which drew comments from other folks in group rides. And it defied all my efforts to get reliable shifting across the entire freewheel. I switched to friction and didn't look back. Also, the new chromed SunRace freewheels shift more smoothly and run more quietly than the original Suntour.

But it felt like something was bogging down the entire drivetrain. I wrote about this months ago on this forum and did a lot of inspecting and testing to figure out the problem. I noticed that when I shoved the pedals backward to see how far they'd spin, it wouldn't even make a full rotation. I compared this with other bikes from that same era, with different groups -- Shimano, Campy -- and those were much smoother with less resistance. While we don't pedal backward I figured it was a valid indication that there was excessive drag somewhere.

After about 8 months I took off the GPX rear derailleur to test a theory I had that the cage pivot spring was waaayyy too strong and was actually dragging the entire drivetrain. Everything else was smooth -- jockey wheels, etc., so it wasn't friction drag from dirt, rough surfaces, lack of lubrication, etc. I even tried adding a link or two to the chain, which helped a little to reduce the drag, but added too much slop.

I bought an old Shimano 600 group and installed only the rear derailleur. Big difference. Much less drivetrain drag, primarily due to the cage pivot spring tension. And the Shimano 600 RD had adjustable pivot spring tension (different holes for the spring's retainer leg).

I disassembled the GPX RD and found there was a dimpled area where the second spring retainer leg hole should have been, but wasn't drilled through. So that's on my to-do list, although my old Bosch cordless drill batteries are dead so I haven't finished that problem. I suspect that the GPX RD's performance will improve by drilling that second hole to reduce cage pivot spring tension.

I've been using that Shimano 600 RD for months without much issue, but the parallelogram body spring may be a bit slack. I'm constantly needing to fiddle with the shift lever to dial out noise. It sounds like it wants to ghost shift when I stand to sprint or climb. But I'm going to install better cable housing and cables first. Seems like the galvanized cables I installed last year stretch way too much and I need to reset the cable tension too often. I've had the same problems with the low end Shimano cable/housing kits that came with shifter kits for Shimano RevoShift and SunRace friction thumbies. The cables keep stretching until they're so corroded it doesn't matter anymore.

rccardr 

canklecat

Yup. Just re-tensioned the low end Shimano galvanized rubber band cables again. Third time since installing it a week or so ago. Gonna order some proper cables.

markwesti

Would you please post a link for these , thanks .

RobbieTunes

A lot of bike shops stock both the galvanized and the stainless in bulk, but you have to ask for the stainless. Be aware that older bikes can almost all use the stainless, but there are now separate categories of the stainless for the new 11sp and 12sp applications. I think it's based on the size of the end, but am not sure.

Since REI stopped selling Jagwire Teflon, I've been using Jagwire Slick Stainless, which is generally for Shimano and SRAM. The older Teflon used to have a Campy end and a Shimano end, as far as shifter cable, but that seems to have ended with the Teflon.

For your own long-term use, it pays to spend the few extra $ for good cable and housing. Gore kits can elevate your shifting an entire level, especially with bar ends. There is a Japanese brand that escapes me now that is high quality, as well.

I continue to stick with Jagwire kits, but they've almost doubled in price in the last couple of years. The "basics" kits have dropped, but the comprehensive kits with the good stuff can get to $50-$60.

canklecat

Yeah, I'm looking at Jagwire cable/housing kits with the colorful housing. I'm thinking blue might look good on the Ironman. Or the Univega. Both have blue paint accents.